Engine Mount Lag Stripped....Quick Fix??

One of these bits and about a foot of threaded rod should be long enough to get through the bottom of the boat. To reduce the drag, try a acorn nut on the bottom.

Seriously Dave, Pour some epoxy in and let it cure. Drill a generous pilot hole and run the lag back in. Keep a eye on the alignment. I would hate for you to have to send a blown trans from mis alignment due to rotten stringers.

LOL Pete

My Uncle once lagged an old Chris to the trailer.Customer brought it back in when he couldn't get her off the trailer.

Munday

Fred;

You are correct. Yesterday, the forum was down for maintainence and all the boats in the diaries had "this site was hacked by.....". So, I think the site was hacked into and my guess was that they had to restore things back to a certain safe date which was probably a few days ago. So, yes, a bunch of postings were taken out.

There were some very good posts by some very knowlegable people. In my case, to solve my lag strip out issue, I think I am going to go with the next size larger lag and pour a two part epoxy into the lag holes, put a large pilot hole in and put the lags back in.

I went to the hardware store tonight and bought new lags that were the same size thinking the newer lags would have a better bite. Not the case. Still stripped.

I was also contemplating using CPES and pouring that into the lag holes and letting it seep into the stringers to strengthen them in the rear of the boat. But, with possible moisture in the stringers, I am going to forgo doing that. I will just go with bigger lags, epoxy and hope for the best.

One person on here (Riley I think) indicated his boat had stripped lags for years, and it runs fine, so maybe there is hope for me. Right now, I am not that worried about it because my stringers seem to be firm, as I can't push an awl too far into them when I go in through the lag holes.

So, this may catch you up a little bit.

Dave

davidg wrote: There were some very good posts by some very knowlegable people. In my case, to solve my lag strip out issue, I think I am going to go with the next size larger lag and pour a two part epoxy into the lag holes, put a large pilot hole in and put the lags back in. I was also contemplating using CPES and pouring that into the lag holes and letting it seep into the stringers to strengthen them in the rear of the boat. But, with possible moisture in the stringers, I am going to forgo doing that. I will just go with bigger lags, epoxy and hope for the best. Dave

Dave, At this point there really isn't much you can do with possible moisture in the stringers. Yes, heat will help but removing is the only real answer. The CPES epoxy will penetrate into the wood and then the normal epoxy will fill up missing wood. I don't feel going to a next larger size of lag is needed. Try filling up the hole first and go from there. The reason the CPES wants the wood dry is so it has a spot to penetrate to. With wood full of water, the CPES can't go anyplace!

dave, try loosening the mounts and turning them a touch or try to angle the new lags in to catch new wood,
dont worry there are boats out there that are so rotted and the owners dont realize and have been running them around for years. eventually though you'll have to repair the boat

boat doc, my first solution which got deleted from the hacker was barrel style bushings thru the stringers and thru bolt vertically, apparently he wants a quick fix and not get involved in a stringer repair right now and he is going to do what he is going to do, and i merely suggested as a last ditch effort which will be more safe than what the boat is now to find new wood which it is clearly stated that it is wet and not rotted to lag into an area where the hole is not stripped
and thank you for calling me a super tech because i always reffered to myself as a grease monkey

Sorry if i offended you , but yours sounded like a half assed way to repair ......
Any input other than repairing the boat properly will cost him down the road, either tranny work, or stuctural damage and maybe both.
My hit on you was in regards to your comment there are lots of boats out there with the same engine mount issues,and they have ran them for years.......
Igorance is bliss, but very expensive. The easier softer way is usually wrong...
Just my two cents worth Mr. Lavine,and the shot as to "SUPER TECH" was not an ego booster, remember the control box you took apart and could not put back together,I DO....................Boat dr

it's just not very sound advice, and realy reflects bad on the site if they are going to give half assed suggestions to repair things and then too throw in he's in the business of repairing boats? makes me wonder about a lot of thinks.

Billy, I'm a perfect example of a guy who can sometimes get by with "ignorance is bliss" way of life. My buddy that I own the Skier with brought a buddy of his up from NC last summer. This guy watched me do a semi annual repairs on the floor with Git Rot. This guy is a doctor and naturally can't relate to any repair not done right and by the proper professional, but from what I hear, he is still talking about my repairs and tells people I can hold a boat together with belly button lint. I think that's a compliment.

The original poster was ASKING for half assed repair suggestions, and he got a few. Trolling around slamming fellow members also reflects badly upon this site.

Obviously this stems from one particular boat, remember there are 3 sides to every story... I think Eric still has a 99% approval rating.

Small thread jack.

Hollywood remember you only have one side of that story as well. I will not mess another members thread, agin other then to say I will post the full story on that boat from the beginning with pics to help explain.

I'm just going by what I have read in his postings.

JoeinNY wrote: Definitely a lot of personal attacks lately and it reflects badly on everyone. There is a difference between disagreeing with someone and attacking them. If you refer to someones age, weight, IQ, work ethic, area of the country, mother, choice of engine manufacter, call them a name other than the thier screen name or the one god gave them then it is an attack and its got no place here, particularily on someone elses thread. If someone has a legitimate beef with another member over a business deal and they feel it would benefit the community to hear about it please start your own thread and the moderators will decide whether it has merit or should be deleted. This type of stuff takes food off Keith's table by chasing away members and ultimately advertisers and I know nobody wants that. -Joe.

Well said!

there is nothing for a new bolt to bite into so it has to be fixed some how before you can put the bolt back in so is it smart to say angle it or do nothing? IMHO no it's not. It needs address and not causually over looked or with some half shot idea because.

So it needs dried out regardless, then if you want to patch with a band aid fine, add some rot doc, let it cure then add some sawdust or epoxy to fill the hole and then install the lag. You have to have a means for it to bite and hold to the stringer and water logged rotting wood doesn't stick to ***************, epoxy or anything else literly. What sticks to water? stink maybe?

It does you no good to pour epoxy, matches or any other half aced idea if there isn't any wood for it to stick too. All your going to do is retain the bolt to the mount and not to the structure of the hull and stringers so you might as well not do anything and that's still wrong, because your just going to tear more stuff up and cost you more than if you just would have fixed it the first time.

so to answer the question no there isn't a quick fix, there are some band aids that take some time but there not as long as replacing the stringer but the fix is the stringers need replaced along with the wet foam and soft deck.

my first post got deleted and i gave professional and a very safe method of fixing the problem he had as i always do,


my advice if anyone remembers last week before the 10 posts got deleted was to cross drill into the stringers and install whats called a threaded barrel out of bronze, then you drill down to the barrel vertically and run a bolt to the barrel, not a lag bolt, a bolt with threads which will thread into the barrel and bolt the mount as tight as you care to put it, if this is not a safe repair 79 then you come up with a safer one and dont go there with replacing the stringers cause this guy aint gonna do it, the next safest method would be (if you are a professional you have done this in the past) is to try to find new wood and this can be achieved by turning the mounts or angling the lag bolt.

now, im trying to write this so you understand, if i told the guy hey just run it the way it that it is and that it would be safe then i can see you having a problem with that

but once again i didnt