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Shift Cable Adjustment (PCM 1.23 and Morse)

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sjpitts View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-23-2012 at 5:20pm
As I said in my "tranny slipped" thread, I recently had a situation where my tranny slipped. This is an 89 Supra Mariah with a PCM 351 and a PCM Power Plus 1.23 engine. The control is a Morse control, MV-2.

I am checking everything out to make sure it is working correctly. I had recently changed my shift and throttle cables, and I was thinking that maybe I need to recheck the adjustment.

My understanding is that for the throttle cable the key is that the lever on the trans goes into neutral when the control lever is in neutral, and that the control lever pulls the lever on the trans all the way forward when you shift into forward.

So in setting up the shift cable I followed this instruction I found in another thread:

Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

Ok guys, here is what I've found to be the easiest way to adjust cables. First thing is too make sure you've threaded the brass ends on so the threaded end of the cable extends at least 1/8"


Hook both cables to the shifter end. Both cables are disconnected from the carb and trans at this point. Next put the shifter in neutral, go to the trans, with the lever on the trans in neutral adjust and attach the shifter cable to the trans.


Go back to the shifter now and drop the throttle lever into forward, just to the point that the detent ball kicks in. Now go to the carb, adjust and attach the carb cable. You are done and should be in perfect sync with shift and throttle.    The trans should drop shoothly into gear without any increase in engine speed. It is that easy but do it in the above order or you'll fight it all day.


So I just did this. I will say that it is not really easy to figure exactly where the neutral position is for the lever on the trans. I can definitely hear a "click" when I move the lever into the neutral position, but it has a fair amount of play in that position. I am not sure where in that play I should try and adjust it.

But my real issue is that when I do this, and try it again with the Shift controller, moving into "forward" on the control does not appear to move the lever on the trans all the way forward. So if I put the control in forward, and go back to the trans, I can pull the lever forward another 1/8 inch of so.

My question-- is that an issue? I thought it was important that the lever on the trans move all the way forward. But maybe that is not right? 81Nautique did not say anything about it, so maybe that is not really an issue.

Thanks

Jared
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Morfoot View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2012 at 12:36pm
Jared here's a post I wrote a couple of years ago on rigging the tranny.. pretty bare bones. Mind you this is if the throttle portion is propperly rigged.

Make sure that the transmission is "rigged " properly. Disconnect cable from tranny and make sure that the lever on the tranny is in the neutral position. Then make sure that the throttle cable is in neutral postion and then adjust cable end to match the transmission. Reattach cable and cycle throttle cable a few times to be sure all works properly,then disconnect cable from transmission to make sure tranny is still in neutral postion. If so then your tranny is "Rigged"!

Let us know.
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregman380 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2012 at 12:49pm
Morfoot,

I have a 68 Mustang with Borg Warner Velvet drive. I just purchased the boat after last Christmas. I am just in the process of getting it running.

I had to replace the carburetor which may have messed up the control alignment.

When I shift into FWD I seem get power before the gear engages. I feel like the throttle is around 10 O'clock when the boat lurches into gear with a clicking sound and what seems to be to many RPM's.

Reverse works perfect and goes into gear around 1 O'clock and then power comes on.

I noticed that it looks like the ear on the transmission where the cable attaches does not seem to flip all the way forward into gear when the throttle is in FWD. I would think that this part would be fully FWD before power is applied.

Hope this made some sense to you. I am combing the threads for anything related.

Best Regards,

Greg

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2012 at 1:51pm
Greg here is a how to post from Alan 81nautique,on how to adjust your cables---

There's a procedure to follow for properly adjusting your cables. Give these steps a try and you should be good to go.

1. Disconnect cables at trans and carb

2. At the morse control disconnect both cables and rotate the brass pin connector so there is approx 1/8" of thread showing at the cable end. Reconnect both cables to the morse.

3.At the transmission, place the transmission bracket(the one that the cable attached to) in neutral. You may have to move it back and forth to feel exactly where neutral is but it should detent in the center of travel. Once you find a firn neutral connect your trans cable.

4. Step 4 is the magic. Go back to the morse control and with the transmission engage button in, move the throttle lever to the forward engage detent. Just move it forward and it should lock into the forward position firmly, stop whne it does so. Now go to the carb, adjust the cable connector so the throttle cable smoothly attaches to the carb stud without moving the throttle. You are done.

This sequence works for me everytime with NO tweaking if you do it right.

The trick is you must have the throttle in the forward (or Reverse) detent BEFORE trying to attach the cable at the carb.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregman380 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2012 at 12:02pm
Gary,

The procedure worked great! I was able to understand that up until the forward engage detent there should be no throttle. The problem was that I put the shift cable into the wrong eyelet on the transmission when I put things back to together! After closer inspection and moving the shift cable to the other eyelet it worked great!

I was actually able to take my first spin around the lake yesterday!!

Thanks to everyone on this board who have helped me along the way. I am still not there yet with the Mustang, but I have acheived what I wanted to know. It runs, it shifts, it floats and looks pretty decent!

Regards,

Greg

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2012 at 12:13pm
Originally posted by Gregman380 Gregman380 wrote:

Gary,

The procedure worked great! I was able to understand that up until the forward engage detent there should be no throttle. The problem was that I put the shift cable into the wrong eyelet on the transmission when I put things back to together! After closer inspection and moving the shift cable to the other eyelet it worked great!

I was actually able to take my first spin around the lake yesterday!!

Thanks to everyone on this board who have helped me along the way. I am still not there yet with the Mustang, but I have acheived what I wanted to know. It runs, it shifts, it floats and looks pretty decent!

Regards,

Greg






Good job, that procedure is fool proof but can be a little hard to understand the first time you do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2015 at 3:01am
A little help here, please:

Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:


There's a procedure to follow for properly adjusting your cables. Give these steps a try and you should be good to go.

1. Disconnect cables at trans and carb

2. At the Morse control disconnect both cables and rotate the brass pin connector so there is approx 1/8" of thread showing at the cable end. Reconnect both cables to the Morse.

3.At the transmission, place the transmission bracket(the one that the cable attached to) in neutral. You may have to move it back and forth to feel exactly where neutral is but it should detente in the center of travel. Once you find a firm neutral connect your trans cable.

4. Step 4 is the magic. Go back to the Morse control and with the transmission engage button in, move the throttle lever to the forward engage detente. Just move it forward and it should lock into the forward position firmly, stop when it does so. Now go to the carb, adjust the cable connector so the throttle cable smoothly attaches to the carb stud without moving the throttle. You are done.

This sequence works for me every time with NO tweaking if you do it right.

The trick is you must have the throttle in the forward (or Reverse) detente BEFORE trying to attach the cable at the carb.


Great advice. I just properly adjusted the cables using this method. Worked great.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TedR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-18-2020 at 1:55pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Greg here is a how to post from Alan 81nautique,on how to adjust your cables---

There's a procedure to follow for properly adjusting your cables. Give these steps a try and you should be good to go.

1. Disconnect cables at trans and carb

2. At the morse control disconnect both cables and rotate the brass pin connector so there is approx 1/8" of thread showing at the cable end. Reconnect both cables to the morse.

3.At the transmission, place the transmission bracket(the one that the cable attached to) in neutral. You may have to move it back and forth to feel exactly where neutral is but it should detent in the center of travel. Once you find a firn neutral connect your trans cable.

4. Step 4 is the magic. Go back to the morse control and with the transmission engage button in, move the throttle lever to the forward engage detent. Just move it forward and it should lock into the forward position firmly, stop whne it does so. Now go to the carb, adjust the cable connector so the throttle cable smoothly attaches to the carb stud without moving the throttle. You are done.

This sequence works for me everytime with NO tweaking if you do it right.

The trick is you must have the throttle in the forward (or Reverse) detent BEFORE trying to attach the cable at the carb.


Gary, this is such great info! I broke our throttle cable and both the transmission and throttle cable were replaced on our 84' 2001 Nautique. After which the engine would rev right as it went into gear (forward or reverse). Step 4 above mitigated this problem, and it now works outstanding! This forum is so helpful, and it is nice that this wealth of maintenance, engineering and experience still lives here on these pages, especially when faced with trying to keep a 30-40 year old boat working. Thanks again, very respectfully, Ted
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-18-2020 at 2:43pm
Please don't thank me thank Alan.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-15-2022 at 12:06am
Does this process differ for EFI GT40's? If so how? (or post link to correct thread documenting it)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2022 at 10:56pm
Just following g up again. Does this procedure work for GT40 EFI. The instructions Alan/Gary posted reference carbs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-15-2022 at 5:56am
It works for Fuel Injection too.

Step 2 gets skipped sometimes due to access issues. If the cable ends at the controller are in good shape a skip is OK. If there's play though, you'll want to access the back of the controller and replace the cable ends.

Step 4...........Some controllers have  more pronounced detents than others. what you're doing in this step is making sure the controller shifts the transmission into gear before the throttle gets advanced at all.

Then when it's in gear any further movement raises engine speed.

The "magic" is built into the controller but with enough wear and tear on the barrel ends on the cables or the sliding spring loaded cam on the back of the controller, the magic can disappear.Wink

And for the question that came up in the original post way back when about the shift arm being "fully forward", it doesn't need to be.

The arm needs to be shifted to the forward detent ball, not jammed forward as far as it will physically go.
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