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need help identifying this Correct Craft

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rilee29 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rilee29 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2016 at 2:40am
click on the tree with the up arrow, then choose the picture you want.

Sorry, but I am not seeing any trees on the controls of this site. Geographically speaking, where are those controls?
Rick
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rilee29 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rilee29 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2016 at 3:08am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2016 at 8:46am
Originally posted by rilee29 rilee29 wrote:

since I am not savvy enough to do the pics, the distributor is a Proform part # 67040. I installed it today and we have the baby breathing again! Sounds awesome! I am pretty sure the block is a reman, but with the HEI and the 750 Summit carb, it is very responsive. Had to rebuild the water pump today also. I don't seem to be getting the water flow where it should be though. I am using one of those plunger looking gismos on the underside of the boat . the attached hose goes to both the pump inlet and the oil cooler. I have seen some pretty clean looking setups on the internet and tried to make sure mine was the same, but who knows if they are correct....


I suppose the good news is that it runs but the bad news is that the distributor isn't a marine certified unit and the carburetor if it's one of the Summit label Holley knockoffs isn't either.

You can search on here or do a Google search about marine carbs and distributors to see what the differences are.

I like to stay out of conversations about people using non marine parts and why it was OK in their mind to use it or "convert" something though,

I figure you'll get some opinions for sure though.

KenO





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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2016 at 9:32am

Rick,
I too don't like commenting on the use of non marine rated items. Earlier in this thread the automotive distributor was described:
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

. For those who may not know the difference, the one shown is an automotive since it has a vacuum advance. It's the round diaphragm chamber on the side. Marine units are mechanical advance.

I'm very sorry that you ether ignored the description or hopefully just missed it. The bottom line is your engine may be running on the hose but it WILL NOT perform properly under load on the water. The other issue is you will be driving a potential BOMB!!!

Should we move onto what carb is on the engine??

BTW, don't be fooled that the cooling system is working. The pressure from the hose will mask problems. Find the "bucket test" thread in the FAQ's.

Also, I'm glad you found the icon of the tree with the up arrow!


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rilee29 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rilee29 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2016 at 11:24am
Ya, so I'm not into driving bombs... I have the original carb I can go back to and for my own sanity I am sorry to ask the stupid question, but what's the difference in what I have and the marine parts that converts it back and forth from usable to self exploding?
Rick
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2016 at 11:35am
Fuel leak /overflow protection on the carb/fuel pump/etc, spark suppression on the dist/alt/starter.

The bilge is sealed, unlike a car- makes it very easy for fumes or leaked fuel to combine with a spark and blow the top off
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2016 at 11:38am
Because the boat is under your engine, as opposed to in a car where there is the ground under your engine you have to worry about the heavier than air gas fumes that accumulate.   You need to first minimize those fumes, and secondly avoid making sparks that can ignite the fumes that cannot be minimized.

A marine carb, besides be tuned for the constant load of marine use is build to dump any extra fuel into the engine and not out side of the carb where it will puddle in the bilge and make fumes.

Marine distributors have to be built to contain the sparks they make and any explosions they may ignite.     But also they do not have a vacuum advance because the engine is under a constant load.   They need to utilize only a centrifugal advance in order to make the engine perform optimally. Just capping off the vacuum advance port on most automotive distributors will not provide you with enough total advance to make the engine perform optimally starting, off idle and through the top end.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rilee29 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2016 at 1:41pm
Thanks for all the input! I gave up trying to loosen my steering cable yesterday after days of drowning it in WD40. I removed the old cable and took it in to find a replacement. No one seemed to be able to find a match until finally the parts guy said" They haven't put quick disconnect ball joints on steering cables for years! They outlawed them long ago because the ball would break off and cause crashes". An adapter for both cable ends upgraded my equipment and I was off! Even the stupid questions and answers are great for us first timers. And thanks for tuning down the sarcasm....haha. BTW....i have started changing out all the fuel and electrical part on this boat motor with common sense safety in mind for sure. If I want a boat, why have one I worry about constantly if it's safe right? I just got married this year. I want to keep her around for as long as i can! That means keep her safe as well as happy!
Rick
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