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Sherwood water pump for 292 Interceptor

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Bill.Rahr View Drop Down
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    Posted: February-24-2016 at 5:06pm
Greetings all,

I was hoping to find out how people are dealing with the Sherwood split circuit water pump that is impossible to find replacement parts for. Is there a stash somewhere of spare parts that people are able to rebuild pumps from or is there a common retrofit?

I am currently looking to rebuild/replace two pumps, part numbers M10270G and M10280G (left and right hand rotation).

A little back story: My parents just picked up a 1949 Chris Craft 36' Quarterdeck cruiser that was re-engined with a pair of counter rotating 185hp Interceptors. I am currently in charge of getting these things back into good order. They are in fine shape aesthetically but have been beaten on hard and are currently getting full rebuilds. It seems most of the internal damage came from overheating. Many things are suspect but first and foremost are the Sherwood water pumps. All internal parts have deep grooves and the impellers were in very bad shape.

Here are a few pictures, please note that the cooling system has been modified to a full, closed loop setup. The water pumps in question actually circulate engine coolant through a heat exchanger and there is a retrofitted pump for sea water.







This is my first post here and although we are obviously not talking about a Correct Craft, this community seems to have the best wealth of knowledge on these Dearborn Interceptor motors. Thank you in advance for taking the time to look through this and add what you can.

Bill
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Riley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 5:31pm
Welcome to the site. Where's the pump that circulates the coolant?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill.Rahr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 5:38pm
Thank you, I will definitely give him a try. The sherwood pumps pictured circulate the coolant. There is an additional bare brass sherwood pump, an E35 I think, above the crankshaft that pumps raw water.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 5:39pm
Bill,
That sure looks like a very interesting project. Welcome to CCfan.
I went looking for my records on the impellers and regrettably can't seem to find them! However, they are a standard Sherwood and very available. Take a look at the dimentions that Jamestown has for Sherwood. That's how I found the impellers the last time I replaced them which was 4 or 5 years ago. Bearings and seals are off the shelf items that any power transmission distributor will have. The tail end the shaft runs on the housing and came be bushed if needed. If the cam is severely worn, it can be built up by brazing.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 5:41pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

Where's the pump that circulates the coolant?

Bruce,
Aren't the pictures coming up that Bill posted?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 5:44pm
Yeah, I didn't see the pump on top at first, I do now. Interesting set up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill.Rahr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 5:49pm
Finding impellers and seals seems to be the easy part, the cams and separator plates seem to be the hard part. Also, the pully flange has fallen off one of the pump shafts which makes me nervous that it will happen again if I just press it back on.

Brazing the cams would certainly help and I have been looking into just making new plates...

Thanks again to all for the fast response!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 6:01pm
Bill,
If Jim Harris can't help with the odd parts, then it sounds like you may need the services of a machine shop. If the flange for the sheave fell off once, it's going to again. How deep are some of the groves? A rubber impeller pump is pretty forgiving and especially in your case where they are used just for circulation and no lift is needed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 6:15pm
Neat old Chris.   Appears to be a 36' Sedan that someone installed a more modern flying bridge on.
Are you removing the bridge for the restoration ?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill.Rahr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 6:15pm
They are pretty deep, maybe .01" or so, enough to easily catch a fingernail. Also, one has a gouge running at a right angle to the grooves that is about twice as deep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 6:16pm
Bill,
Have you called Depco? Some of our members have had good luck with them.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill.Rahr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 6:27pm
It is a cool old boat. Apparently 1949 was one of only 2 model years for the "Quarterdeck cruiser." I am not sure when it got the flying bridge but it is being refinished in place with the rest of the exterior.

Here is a crappy panorama of the current progress: (Best picture I have)


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill.Rahr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 6:36pm
I have tried Depco, no luck... :(
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 6:42pm
Bill,
Well, it just may be back to the machine shop idea?
You asked about a replacement pump. Have you looked at anything? Since you are just using them for coolant circulation, you sure don't need a rubber impeller pump.

I just noticed a line tapped into the intake manifold between the YH's. Is that for vacuum gauges?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill.Rahr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 7:02pm
I have been thinking about trying to retrofit a crank balancer mounted pump like on some 350 mercruisers to replace the current pump. It looks like both sherwood and jabsco have a couple offerings. The availability of replacement parts is a big consideration here.

I would love to just use the motors original centrifugal pump but the front cover doesn't allow for that.

The fitting on the manifold is indeed for a vacuum gauge.
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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 7:18pm
Sometimes if you have the actual Sherwood part numbers you can find them on ebay if you keep searching. Many times the same parts are used on other pumps
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eether Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2016 at 11:04pm
What a cool project!
I just went through this with my interceptor. I couldn't find any of the parts other then the readily available seals, bearing and impellers as that pump has been discontinued for quite a while. If the pump shaft that has the loose flange is otherwise OK, one acceptable fix would be to "pin" the two together by drilling and tapping parallel with the shaft centering the drill bit exactly on the od of the shaft. I don't know if that makes sense, but it wouldn't be hard with a decent drill press and vise.
If you decide to go with a modern crank driven pump I'd be interested in seeing what you come up with. I was considering it but ultimately the oddly shaped crank pulley and plumbing back into the engine inlets pushed me back to the original.
Good luck!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill.Rahr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-25-2016 at 12:39am
Do you have any insight into what is acceptable wear on the parts especially the cam? The plates separating the impellers for sure need to be remade but those are no problem compared to the cams. I was thinking of just having a new flange machined with a fresh ID that will make a good press fit again. I had the idea of pinning the flange but there is no where near enough real estate to get a drill bit in there, the shoulder is less than an 1/8".

Here is picture from here that shows what I am thinking with the crank pump:
(I know this is not a Y-block and an adapter for the balancer would need to be made but it is the general idea...)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eether Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-25-2016 at 1:37am
Bill, my cam was 3/16 thick on the unworn sections and I just polished the worn sections with varying grits of Emory cloth wrapped around a appropriately sized dowel until it looked good. Mine had eaten some wire and had some pretty bad scoring but it cleaned up really well. I don't know of any wear limits, I'm sure someone more knowledgeable on the site could lend some insight. Do you have a pic of the cam in question?
The pin isn't through the shoulder of the flange, it's parallel with the shaft. Half of the threads are in the shaft and half of the threads are in the flange. It probably isn't a commonly thought of solution but would be less hassle than making a new flange. I could send a drawing if that would help..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-25-2016 at 7:29am
Originally posted by Eether Eether wrote:

The pin isn't through the shoulder of the flange, it's parallel with the shaft. Half of the threads are in the shaft and half of the threads are in the flange. It probably isn't a commonly thought of solution but would be less hassle than making a new flange. ..

Bill,
Think of a key and keyway but round and not square. It's an old tool and die makers trick! Instead of being threaded, I'd rather see a taper pin eliminating the clearance of a threaded fastener. Then, for added security, I'd use a retaining compound such as Locktite 609. You'd still probably have to go to the machine shop unless you have a tapered reamer!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eether Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-25-2016 at 8:59am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Eether Eether wrote:

The pin isn't through the shoulder of the flange, it's parallel with the shaft. Half of the threads are in the shaft and half of the threads are in the flange. It probably isn't a commonly thought of solution but would be less hassle than making a new flange. ..

Bill,
Think of a key and keyway but round and not square. It's an old tool and die makers trick! Instead of being threaded, I'd rather see a taper pin eliminating the clearance of a threaded fastener. Then, for added security, I'd use a retaining compound such as Locktite 609. You'd still probably have to go to the machine shop unless you have a tapered reamer!



Ha yeah, that was what I meant.. Late night brain fart..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-25-2016 at 9:49am
Bill, the photo that you posted is of Billy Sutton's boat, boatdr. He's into Y blocks. Try contacting him and he will probably tell you what he thinks of putting that type of set up on your engines.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-25-2016 at 10:08am
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

Bill, the photo that you posted is of Billy Sutton's boat, boatdr. He's into Y blocks. Try contacting him and he will probably tell you what he thinks of putting that type of set up on your engines.

Bill,
I mentioned earlier that I don't feel a rubber impeller pump is the way to go for close circuit circulation since impeller maintenance is high. I'd go back to Depco and talk to them about a plain centrifugal pump. There are centrifugal pumps that can be shaft mounted rather than belt driven but a belt drive is an option as well.   


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-25-2016 at 10:26am
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

boatdr.    Try contacting him and he will probably tell you what he thinks


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-25-2016 at 10:31am
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

boatdr.    Try contacting him and he will probably tell you what he thinks



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill.Rahr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-25-2016 at 12:15pm
Ok, the screw/drift pun repair makes perfect sense now. I think that would be one to send to the machine shop since the pump shaft stands proud of the flange by a bit and it is stainless.

Thank you all again very much for the suggestions, I will try Billy as well.

Here is one of the cams, the other is a little smoother but has a bad gouge:

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill.Rahr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-25-2016 at 4:45pm
All,

I just got off the phone with Jim Harris. He is able and willing to rebuild both pumps with new parts, he recons he has the last new cams that exist in the world.(I don't doubt him) I can't tell you what a relief that is to hear. Hopefully this serves as a resolution to my issue and again, thank you all for your thoughtful advice in helping my family and I out in our project. If there is interest, I will keep you up to date on the project.

As a side note, Jim is the man! He was able to give me all sorts of additional advise and was very friendly!

Cheers,
Bill
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-25-2016 at 5:17pm
Bill,
It's great to hear that Jim will be able to help. I've never talked to him but I do understand he's the go to for Interceptor. One of these days I have a feeling I may need to talk to him. BTW, thank god you don't have the Dearbomatic transmissions!! I thankfully have the Velvet Keep those Y blocks running.    


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2016 at 9:55am
Bill, is reasonable.
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