Sn2001 gremlins

Nautiqueparts still lists those replacement springs.

It actually is normal for them to be two different sizes. Someone else may know the reasoning on that.

http://www.nautiqueparts.com/distributorsprings.aspx

You mention adding a new fuel filter. Is this just before or after this problem started?
By mistake I installed a fuel injection filter in my carbureted 350 GM powered Malibu Skier a few years back. It choked the fuel supply because it was a 10 micron filter and the mechanical fuel pump could not pull the fuel past it fast enough. The carbureted filters are 20-30 micron and flow better for a mechanical fuel pump. Fuel Injectors need a fine filter but carburetors need more flow so a larger filter screen is used.

Maybe you have a worn timing chain. You can test for this by manually turning crank back & forth while watching dizzy rotor. Any lost motion means worn chain.

SNobsessed wrote: Maybe you have a worn timing chain. You can test for this by manually turning crank back & forth while watching dizzy rotor. Any lost motion means worn chain.

I did this earlier today, do you mean absolutely any lost movement? I ask because I'm fairly certain there was some.

Anyone have a wiring diagram for what the ignition system SHOULD look like, I'd like to double check the wiring for any shorts or obvious stuff before spending $$$ on something like a distributor.

Also, any part # to take my boat back to points ignition?

My boat is an 83 and I know a lot can change or be messed with over the years, I think it's worth a try. Also I've read on many threads here that the EI conversion kits are junk.

If really like to get this squared away before the end of the season.

When it comes to EI conversion distributor issues I'm not a fan of Tim's diagram...

SNobsessed wrote: If there was some, that means worn chain. Can't say that is causing your problem but it might be an upgrade for off-season.

There is always going to be a little play in the chain

The link attached here explains things pretty well and since you're checking your compression tomorrow that can tell you something about the chain and gear condition too.

http://www.misterfixit.com/chanslop.htm

If you check by the link, your harmonic balancer is 6.5 inches in diameter when it comes time to do the math

The Petronix EI Module has failed.

Go to Amazon and order a new one.

Once installed.
Make sure you have the jumper in place as shown in the diagram above to ensure you're getting 12v to the positive side of the coil and test with a meter.. Run a dedicated ground wire from the plate in the distributor to the negative post of your battery or a good ground on the block. (back right side of engine has a grounding point)

Make sure your rotor is seated properly and that the distributor cap is securely fastened down.

Your problem will be solved.

Lots and lots of experience with my Fish and Ski Nautiques

I've spent several hours speaking with the technicians and two of their recommendations are in my post above; verifying 12vat the coil and ensuring a good ground. A third would be to get a good low resistance coil (0.6 ohms or so, like the Flamethrower)

I've also encountered the exact symptoms with both of my boats, jumped through all the above hoops and it is always the Pertronix. Always.

KENO wrote: Now if you'd said that in the first place it would have been a much better post Does TFreeman have an ignitor or an Ignitor 2 ?It doesn't show up in his pictures, just the wires leading to it. You might find different coil recommendations for each in the instructions like a 0.6 ohm coil for the Ignitor 2 and a 1.5 ohm coil for the original Ignitor.

It is apparently an ignitor. Since the previous owner installed it, I'm having a bit of a difficult time locating an instruction sheet to double check things. I have noticed that the resistor (?) was not bypassed by the PO, and who knows what else he did.

I'm almost tempted to order the kit from nautique parts that replaces everything. If I new it would solve it, it would probably already be in the mail.


The compression test found nothing significant so I'm at least partially happy today

Definitely an ignitor it's got the black module and says ignitor on it (hahaha)

Tfreeman wrote: After today I'm fairly certain it's not the fueling system, unless the float isn't adjusted quite right and if it's even possible, not giving me enough fuel at higher rpm. Otherwise out of the big 3 ingredients needed sparks about all that's left.

Problem solved... Turns out it was the float level actually causing a fuel starvation. A free fix. I feel kind of silly honestly. When I saw that the timing was not staying correct, I had completely ruled out the fuel system. I went ahead and swapped in a new distributor and the rest of the ignition system also before solving it today.

Needless to say i have now been through this boat pretty thoroughly and it has gotten a serious tune up. I've got at least another month of HOT summer weather here (if not more) so I'm thrilled to have it running right.

I appreciate all the help and knowledge shared in this thread.

KENO wrote: Well, good for you What did you put in for a distributor? KenO

Probably another Pertronix!
Trevor,
Glad you found the problem. Now it's time to get some time in on the water.

I put in the kit from skidim. I will be keeping all the old stuff as spares just in case.
http://www.skidim.com/PROTEC-RETRO-KIT-DIST-RH/productinfo/RK107026A/

We are about 20-25 minutes from the nearest ramp so it's easy to make a trip after the wife gets off of work during the week, my full time gig gives me plenty of days off and my side business is slow right now so lake time should kill most of that down time.