Engine just cuts out

Hi everyone,

I have a '91 Nautique and the engine runs smoothly but recently just completely cuts out either while driving or idling as if I turned the key off.

Temp is steady at 140 but I notice the oil pressure gauge is reading high at 80 kp. Not sure if it's related or not.

Starting is otherwise very strong. Maybe electrical? Maybe Pro-tec safeguard is on to something?

Any ideas?

I was out this weekend and changed the plugs hoping it might have an effect on this problem. No luck.

Both David F and rbjr are directing me to think it has to do with the ignition switch. I will check this next. It seems this is electrical or a fuel problem from feedback here as well as from a number of mechanics I spoke with.

I remember about 10 years ago having work done with the electrical system under the pod and I don't think it ever was the same.

The engine starts by first pushing in the ignition button then turning the key. I recall that originally I could leave the ignition button pushed in, say, in the case of having the auto bilge pump on along with it. Now when the ignition button is pressed in, it drains the battery.

Perhaps it's time to look at this again. I am really hoping that this is the problem and not have to buy a new carb.

The reason I'm thinking it could also be fuel related is that the carb kicks back when cutting out at half throttle. Also, when it lets me open it out at full throttle briefly before completely shutting down, I hear sort of a bonging sound coming from the carb. I hope this is only the result of another problem and not the problem itself.

The one other thing I was going to check next is timing. What are the symptoms of timing being off?

     

79, I think Terra means the ingition breaker separate from the key.

I fixed my 1991 Nautique Excel with a VERY similar problem:

1. Run a red 10gauge wire from the big red wire terminal on the key switch to the positive connection on the voltmeter on your dash.

2. Disconnect the edgecard circuit board wiring harness connector from your ProTec ignition module and clean all the pins with the eraser on a plain ole yellow pencil. Apply dielectric grease (non-conductive) to all the pins and the weatherproof boot and reconnect to the ignition module.

3. Remove all the (black) ground wires from the ignition and coil module pack and clean them. Reterminate anything you find loose and reconnect the grounds wires.

If your engine is going into "limp mode" it should keep running and be limited to 2500 rpm even if you give it full throttle in neutral, so try that experiment if it starts to shut down on you again. Also, if your carb is backfiring thru the carburetor, you quite likely have blown the diaphragm of the power valve in your Holley carburetor and need to replace it.

Good luck.

79, On those boats, you do have to push in a breaker/swithch labeled "ignition" before the key will work. It's kind of a master power switch for the whole boat. The only thing that works without that switch pushed in is the auto bildge (which also has a push button breaker/switch). BKH

I should mention that the mis-wiring isn't the direct cause of the problem... it's still not right though. The random cutting out seems electrical to me. If the breaker is wired this way, I'd lean towards a bad connection at the IGN breaker since it seems like the key doesn't even control power to the actual ignition system the way your boat is (incorrectly) wired. I'd pull out the pod and eyeball how that thing is wired.