RR distributor

They don't make a RR gear for it.

You can't use your old one either because the shaft is a different size.

The old shaft is .531 inches assuming it's a Prestolite and the new one is .500 inches.

You can bush down the old gear to fit.

A couple of people on the site have done this and had good results.

You might send a PM to Duane in Indy who could do this if he has the time. He's done quite a few projects for people on the site including just what you need. You'd have to ship him your distributor for the best fit/results

Another member lharley isn't around much but he did the same thing.

Maybe you know a local machinist or even better maybe you're a machinist .

I used to have some but they're gone now.

351 gears are different from 302 gears if you get looking.

The hole for the shaft is bigger on a 351.

Send Duane a PM, he might have something.

Thanks for the replies.

Well, here"s the fix- going to use the new Pertronix distributor, bought a RR gear, 100.00 bucks!! Going to bore the new gear out to "too tight", lockite it good, and throw it in there. Was contemplating the Davis, as they make a RR dizzy, but the cap is too large in diameter to fit. Funny, Pertronix makes a RR dizzy for GM, just not Ford 351W. Should work, as others have performed this. Car guys do this quite frequently. Thanks, for all the help. I have had this boat 30 years, just now starting to throw parts at it.

DUI cap has no problem fitting the PCM 351w. Do you have another marinization with tighter clearance at the 'stat housing or did someone give you bad info?

Some on the Shamrock site with PCM's had trouble too, a spacer between the thermostat housing and manifold fixed that.

KENO wrote: That would be the port manifold for you Pete

Ken,
I'm not the only one who shows some class with proper marine terminology:

81nautique wrote: at the start of the video you can see a jet ski along the port side for about one second .

Mike

Since you're sticking with the Pertronix I just thought I'd mention that the installed advance springs are just right for a ski boat application.

You get 24 degrees of mechanical advance in addition to your initial advance so 10 initial plus 24 would give 34 degrees. You could do 12 initial and 36 advance if you felt like it.

The extra springs and advance limiters they include aren't needed.

The colors of the springs don't match the instruction sheet very well but the silver are what are installed and if you look at the advance table in the instructions you'll see the advance curve.

I've installed a few on normal rotating engines and they've worked very well despite what the "Pertronix haters" on the site might say or think

This may help.

Dimensions

Bump it up to around 10 degrees and try it.

foot@63 wrote: Re-bushed my new Mallory RR dizzy gear for my new Pertronix, dimensions all checked out - new holley marine carb, new plugs, new MSD wires, new coil, also a new starter solenoid. Ran it yesterday, cranks perfect, seems the initial timing is lazy[ factory spec is 6 degrees@ 600 RPM's] wants to fall on its face from idle, slowly raising RPM's, then it will pick up. Didn't do this prior to dizzy change. It does have the silver springs in it, will change to the lighter copper springs to bring it all in sooner. According to the chart, 24 degrees with the silver springs doesn't come in until 2000-2500. Runs great other than the brief flat spot off idle. Oh yea, the ballistor is by-passed now because of no points.

Like Duane said, bump it up to 10 degrees and you'll also get a decent advance number at higher RPM's. Right now with 6 at 600 rpm you only get 30 at full advance.

34 would be a good number at full advance,     , 10 at idle gives you that.

Your recommended 6 degrees was for that particular Prestolite that you replaced.

Also like Duane said, I'd be looking at the new carburetor adjustments for your flat spot off idle I'd suspect the new carburetor before the new distributor

Idle mixture and accelerator pump come to mind as possible culprits