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Wildcat-need some help identifying

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-20-2018 at 9:58am
Fire it up, that will tell you a lot!

Congrats Boys!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-20-2018 at 10:34am
Originally posted by quinner quinner wrote:

Fire it up, that will tell you a lot!


Normally Id agree with you but there was one time where maybe i should of dumped a little marvel in the heads and cylinders and worked it by hand and compression tested before I fired up the unknown condition BBC in a wildcat...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-20-2018 at 11:05am
Joe, I remember the video. What kind of damage did the engine suffer?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-20-2018 at 11:16am
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

Joe, I remember the video. What kind of damage did the engine suffer?


It was broke ...

Hole in piston, dropped valve seat in head, banged up cylinder - plain ol broke
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-20-2018 at 12:16pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

Zach knows his mopars but it is still a 440, and will be stamped on a pad in the front top of the block (hanging out in front of the valley cover on the port side) with the displacement as well as the casting numbers on the side.


Joe know's his marine Chrysler big block parts better than anyone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote illiniball2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2018 at 11:06am
Swany and I investigated a little more yesterday.. Wet foam! One of the motor mount had both bolts that would spin when turning others would tighten. Plan was to get more info on engine but need some parts to see if she will fire up (coil, starter solenoid, prob new plug wires). Once we get those we will see engine status then move to the Gel status.
Still figuring out what to do with the ole gal.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2018 at 11:23am
I'd pull most of the foam out of it and let it dry out really well. If you're lucky, most of the stringer system will be solid and you can get away with using Git Rot in the areas that have rot, if they're not too bad. Unless you're dying to do a stringer job....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SWANY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2018 at 11:33am
Just a couple things to add, the secondaries looked in great condition we're thinking we would like to leave them and eliminate unnecessary work. But I think the primaries need to be redone. Is it a crazy plan to leave them alone and clean up/grind close enough to them to leave them to get the new fiberglass and resin to bond to the hull?
Also what size cranking amps should this battery be for this Motor? We were using my fully charged 500 out of my boat and it just didn't seem like it was having it. We need more cranking power to do a compression test. We did get Marvel oil in the cylinders
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2018 at 12:07pm
The only crazy plan is one that has you doing more work than is necessary, use good epoxy at it will happily bond to anything that is solid and dry.
Big battery, small battery nothing really makes a big block Chrysler sound like it wants to crank. In my experience they all sound like they are barely able to turn over right till they bump to life. If the timing is off at all it will be even worse. Make sure the wires and connections are good, and consider giving the starter a quick tear down. Its intimidating to some people but it's a quick project to pull the starter pull it apart and clean as needed with some crc electric parts cleaner and emory cloth.   
I strongly recommend you start by turning the engine by hand to top dead center then pull out the distributor/collar/cam gear and then manually operate the oil pump until you build pressure, and then long enough to make sure you move oil up to the top end. After that I would put the distributor back in and compression test, if everything went well there then check for spark and consider starting it.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2018 at 12:08pm
Joel and Brian,
I think you will be surprised at what a good wet sand and buff will do for the gel. Go for it!!

If the secondary's seem good, try to leave them but do take some core samples of the wood plus the "tapping" test. There may be moisture and mold spores in them that will give you problems later. If they are good, I can see no reason you can't just do the primaries. I'm not a big fan of just pouring Git Rot down holes as it's just a very temporary fix. The wood is still wet and will continue to rot and even faster next to the epoxy "patch".

The 500 should be enough to crank that engine. Check all your cables and connections. I'd even get an Ohm reading across the start relay (solenoid) when it's coil is energized (contacts closed). You should get a near zero Ohm reading. Then, I'd even open up the starter to check the condition of the commutator and brushes. Clean them up before running out and getting a new starter.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2018 at 12:41pm
Joe, I think in marine/industrial applications Chrysler still opted to use the good old 1:1 starters. In automotive world they went to a different style that has the signature Chrysler starter noise. Early 426 street hemis still used the 1:1 and sounded just like the marine starters.

Newer style gear reduction Chrysler starters spin reallllly fast but I don't know if anyone makes a RR setup unless a rear entry would get the job done. May be an option for replacement.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2018 at 12:55pm
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

Joe, I think in marine/industrial applications Chrysler still opted to use the good old 1:1 starters. In automotive world they went to a different style that has the signature Chrysler starter noise. Early 426 street hemis still used the 1:1 and sounded just like the marine starters.

Newer style gear reduction Chrysler starters spin reallllly fast but I don't know if anyone makes a RR setup unless a rear entry would get the job done. May be an option for replacement.

Zach still the salesman selling parts before checking for the cause and testing!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2018 at 1:01pm
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

Joe, I think in marine/industrial applications Chrysler still opted to use the good old 1:1 starters. In automotive world they went to a different style that has the signature Chrysler starter noise. Early 426 street hemis still used the 1:1 and sounded just like the marine starters.

Newer style gear reduction Chrysler starters spin reallllly fast but I don't know if anyone makes a RR setup unless a rear entry would get the job done. May be an option for replacement.


The marine BBC starters of that era are definitely great big 1:1 starters made by prestolite - the polys used a very similar if not the same starter. They get the job done but often make you wonder if they are turning fast enough. - If I was running one of these engines in a day to day ski boat that I was going to start and stop a hundred times a day Id consider finding a gear reduction solution.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2018 at 10:36pm
Common Pete, 1:1 sounds super cool.

Joe, I wonder what the amperage draw of a gear reduction starter turning the same engine VS a 1:1 is.I bet it's a lot less. Although, the earlier boats seemed to require only like 300-400 CCA batteries by the book.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SWANY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-12-2018 at 11:30am
Just an update for Ken- I now have spark. So thank you! Confirms I got the wiring all correct also. As mentioned this thing was a mess and sorting out the problems. Need to get yet another starter solenoid, I’ve gone thru two trying to get it running. Going to make all new cables up to the starter. I am running out of solutions to the low cranking issue. Joe suggested pulling the starter to clean, and I would be all for that except I don’t see how I can get one of the bolts even loose without pulling the motor or cutting a notch in the stringer now. Which it is getting stringers so.... pulling the starter is two steps down my list of options
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mojo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-12-2018 at 11:52am
Originally posted by SWANY SWANY wrote:

Just an update for Ken- I now have spark. So thank you! Confirms I got the wiring all correct also. As mentioned this thing was a mess and sorting out the problems. Need to get yet another starter solenoid, I’ve gone thru two trying to get it running. Going to make all new cables up to the starter. I am running out of solutions to the low cranking issue. Joe suggested pulling the starter to clean, and I would be all for that except I don’t see how I can get one of the bolts even loose without pulling the motor or cutting a notch in the stringer now. Which it is getting stringers so.... pulling the starter is two steps down my list of options


+2 on getting the starter rebuilt/replaced. Had the same issue years ago with a low crank scenario.. Rebuilt it and issue was solved.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-12-2018 at 3:03pm
[QUOTE=SWANY] Just an update for Ken- I now have spark. So thank you! /QUOTE]

Kinda nice of Prestolite to use a lot of the same parts in their distributors for different brands.

Mallory has even more interchangeability of the internals

Since there's no shaft in the boat and you're not worried about alignment, why not just jack up the back of the engine enough to get the starter out?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-12-2018 at 3:15pm
Joel,
When you get the starter off, open it up just as Joe mentioned. Look for spots where the armature may be dragging on the field. If it is, then the bushings are worn. New "oilite" bushings can be found at McMaster or even a decent hardware store. Clean up the commutator with some fine abrasive paper or even a scotchbrite pad. If the brushes look short and or worn, new ones are available and cheap. I just did a search and there's plenty of site to pick from.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SWANY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-11-2019 at 7:40pm
Starting to loose patience with this project. That being said, without writing a novel of what I have done..... looking for input on why I would keep burning ignition coils (2) and it hasn’t even ran!? All the research and trial and error I have done are putting me back at square one. I’ve Gone over the simple wiring diagram at least 10x. Points,gap,dwell,firing order, wires 7mm, plugs gapped.
I MAY soon be asking if anyone is interested in the project or parts
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 93/70 ccpb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-11-2019 at 8:55pm
the older chryslers need a ballast resistor,that may be the problem.my six cyl used to give me problems
what you dont want to hear from jbear and bill.you cant get in the boat till you get your minute,and they throw you back in water!
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