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Checking Compression

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morpheus122 View Drop Down
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    Posted: July-17-2018 at 3:04am
Hi everyone. I'm purchasing a 1992 Ski Nautique with the 5.7 H.O 351. The boat is all original and is in very nice shape. I'm planning on doing a compression test before finalizing the sale. I have a few questions on the procedure.

1) Will pulling the circuit breaker labeled ignition be sufficient to protect the electrical system while cranking over the engine with the key? Looks to have electronic ignition. Coils at the back under the plastic cover and some type of engine management hardware at the front of the engine.

2) Will the impeller pump get damaged from cranking dry, 5 strokes on 8 cylinders

3) Is there a way to shutoff fuel? This motor is carb'd

Planning to warm the engine, pull the plugs, crank at WOT, and give the starter some time to cool off.

Any other advice on how to safely run the test?

Also is there an easy way to tell if the stringers are wood or composite? The owner said the boat was a demo model he bought from a skier in 94. He was told when he bought it from him that it had composite stringers. I read that there were a few boats from 92 with composite but most had wood.

Thanks,

Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2018 at 9:09am
Working down your list

1) pull the connector from the interrupter to disable the ignition system. The interrupter is the thing that resides where a distributor would normally be.

This is at the top of page 23 in the link to a PCM manual below

link

2) Most likely no problem but if you just finished running the engine to warm it up, leave a little water running if you're worried about..........or take the belt off the pump

3) no need with the carburetor, just have the choke fully open along with the throttle.

Back to #1, I don't know what circuit breaker you're talking about or what you mean by "pulling the breaker" but the answer in #1 above from the manual is PCM's way of disabling the ignition system
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2018 at 9:54am
As far as the stringers, I'd remove one of the bolts holding the cradle to the stringers and see what's down in that hole.

Maybe you'll find wood, maybe you'll find foam down in the hole.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote morpheus122 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2018 at 2:34pm
Keno, If the stringers end up being wood, do I need to put some kind of sealant back in with the bolt so moisture doesn't penetrate the stringer?

I'll pull the connector from the interruptor. That manual is a great resource.

On these Holly carbs can you just hold the choke and throttle open with your hand at the engine while someone cranks with the key?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2018 at 11:58pm
Originally posted by morpheus122 morpheus122 wrote:

Keno, If the stringers end up being wood, do I need to put some kind of sealant back in with the bolt so moisture doesn't penetrate the stringer?

I'll pull the connector from the interruptor. That manual is a great resource.

On these Holly carbs can you just hold the choke and throttle open with your hand at the engine while someone cranks with the key?



Put the throttle lever at full throttle with the neutral button pulled out. You may have to do this in reverse because in forward with the button out you probablycan't move the lever to full throttle.

You can use a screwdriver lightly "wedged" in the air horn to hold the choke open.

Lots of different sealers out there, I'd use something to seal it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2018 at 9:58am
I got a 3m4200 clone made by Locktite at Home depot.

Works OK for sealing screws.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote morpheus122 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2018 at 7:34pm
3M 5200 seems too strong. I guess I'll check the Home Depot for alternatives. Still haven't pulled any bolts but if it ends up being wood I want the sealant to last a long time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote morpheus122 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2018 at 7:34pm
Has anyone tried Amazing Goop Marine Adhesive from True Value?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2018 at 7:42pm
Originally posted by morpheus122 morpheus122 wrote:

Has anyone tried Amazing Goop Marine Adhesive from True Value?


Silicone with a different name and a jacked up price!

Originally posted by morpheus122 morpheus122 wrote:

3M 5200 seems too strong. I guess I'll check the Home Depot for alternatives. Still haven't pulled any bolts but if it ends up being wood I want the sealant to last a long time.


Go for 4200 sealant.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2018 at 8:30pm
I have used amazing goop & it is not is same league as 3m products at all.

Adhesion was very marginal.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2018 at 8:59pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

I have used amazing goop & it is not is same league as 3m products at all.

Adhesion was very marginal.


As with all silicones. I hate silicone!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2018 at 10:37pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


As with all silicones. I hate silicone!!


Pete, Have you tried "LEXEL" yet?   I've had very good success with it even on wet surfaces
It is very strong. You need to work fast as it flashes quickly
Sealed all my solar panels with it successfully.
Lowes sells it
It is not silicone

Keep it as original as YOU want it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2018 at 10:43pm
Duane,
Sashco makes some great stuff. Yes, I've used the Lexel with excellent results. I've also used plenty of Sashco's Big Stretch. I've got 4 tubes of different colors in the cabinet now! I wouldn't use it for a marine application where it would be subjected to lots of water.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2018 at 11:24pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

I have used amazing goop & it is not is same league as 3m products at all.

Adhesion was very marginal.


As with all silicones. I hate silicone!!


I guess we can add that to Pete's long list of things he hates for one reason or another
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2018 at 12:11am
Not me I think it's one of the greatest inventions of modern life!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote morpheus122 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2018 at 2:00am
Follow up! The boat was in good condition. I never ended up pulling a bolt to check if the stringers were made of wood as the seller wasn't comfortable. Everything was solid and taken well care of so I assumed even if it is wood it isn't rotten. I put a wrench on all the motor mount bolts and all of them were snug.

Followup on the compression test.....I pulled the plugs on the port bank then found my compression tester wouldn't reach far enough into the cylinder. The plugs however looked good even though they were incorrectly gapped.. After test driving the boat everything checked out so I dropped the hammer and took it home. Only thing I could find troublesome was the shaft drips fast, the idle is a bit high, it needs a squirt of gas to get started, and the interlock doesn't catch the power lever, in other words it's not needed to put the boat into gear.

Started a new thread on some item's i'm looking at checking into :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2018 at 3:43pm
I'd just be so curious right now about whether I got a "special" boat with composite stringers or maybe got a "special" sales pitch from the previous owner, that I'd have to pull one of the screws holding the cradle to a stringer to see what I had

Do you mean a squirt from a bottle in your hand or a squirt from the accelerator pump?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote morpheus122 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2018 at 3:54pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

I'd just be so curious right now about whether I got a "special" boat with composite stringers or maybe got a "special" sales pitch from the previous owner, that I'd have to pull one of the screws holding the cradle to a stringer to see what I had

Do you mean a squirt from a bottle in your hand or a squirt from the accelerator pump?


I have to open the throttle and keep the idle raised a bit during starting. It doesn't seem to want to start at idle position.

I was about to pull a bolt but felt bad about wasting a tube of 4000 for just one bolt. I'll probably do it next time I go work on the boat. When using 4000 do I loosely tighten the bolt, then come back after it cures and sinch it to finally torque?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2018 at 6:32pm
Originally posted by morpheus122 morpheus122 wrote:

I was about to pull a bolt but felt bad about wasting a tube of 4000 for just one bolt. I'll probably do it next time I go work on the boat. When using 4000 do I loosely tighten the bolt, then come back after it cures and sinch it to finally torque?

4200 and 5200 is available in the 1oz. size.



Torque the bolt down just like you would without any sealant.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2018 at 10:26pm
Originally posted by morpheus122 morpheus122 wrote:

I have to open the throttle and keep the idle raised a bit during starting. It doesn't seem to want to start at idle position.


Nothing wrong with that if that's what works for you

You'll hear 13 different ways to start your boat from 12 different people
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote morpheus122 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2018 at 12:52am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by morpheus122 morpheus122 wrote:

I have to open the throttle and keep the idle raised a bit during starting. It doesn't seem to want to start at idle position.


Nothing wrong with that if that's what works for you

You'll hear 13 different ways to start your boat from 12 different people


Roger that. I need to take it out and lower the idle to spec. It was right around 1000rpm or so. Is it normal to hear a whirl sound when giving it power in reverse? It’s a different sound that when in forward.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2018 at 7:51am
When you lower the idle, you'll find out if you have any plugged/dirty idle circuit issues, it may be there because the previous guy couldn't get it to idle at normal speed.

The reverse whirl sound is normal It's a combination of a different gear ratio in reverse on your PCM transmission, the planetary and sun gear setup itself and terrible efficiency moving the boat in reverse

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2018 at 8:06am
You can click on this link for a manual for a PCM transmission It's a free download from the SkiDim website. Pretty nice on their part.

trans manual
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote morpheus122 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2018 at 1:51am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

I'd just be so curious right now about whether I got a "special" boat with composite stringers or maybe got a "special" sales pitch from the previous owner, that I'd have to pull one of the screws holding the cradle to a stringer to see what I had

Do you mean a squirt from a bottle in your hand or a squirt from the accelerator pump?


Wood stringer :/

At least the boat was very well kept!
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