Trailer Hitch bolts

I am starting to put my CC trailer back together after repaint etc. I had to cut or destroy most all of the bolts in taking the trailer apart. Is there anything special about the 2 bolts that hold the hitch on? Do they need to be high strength or anything like that or just replace with std galv. bolts?

I think standard bolts are fine. Because:
1. There are two large bolts (1/2"?) minimum.
2. The two bolts are in double shear.
3. Never have I heard warnings of using grade 8 bolts when purchasing new couplings.

So, the two bolts share the load in four places. It would take an enormous amount of force to shear a standard 1/2" bolt in this configuration.

Just my $.02. Certainly nothing wrong with using grade 8 bolts.

Great advice again and so far off base again.


You need to be using at least grade 5 bolts or your boat and trailer will be passing you going down the highway. All trailer bolts that are used to attach the winch, winch post, bow stop, leaf springs, rollers, bunks, tongue and trailer hitch have to to be at least grade 5. On heavier applications they are grade 8 bolts. Grade 5 bolts are available everywhere they sell hardware. There fine for running boards, guide post and fenders where there is no load but that is the only place everywhere elese has to a hardened bolt, washer and nuts.

Now if you don't give a sh*t about your boat then use the cheap sh*t suggested by some others. It's not a matter of shear it's a matter of strength and yield of the material and holding or breaking.

Use the cheap stuff then go and lock up the brakes in a panic stop and count how long it takes your boat to shove your head through the windshield and I bet you cann't get to five then or count at all afterwards.

Very foolsih using common bolts in this application.

boat dr wrote: jimmy buffett said it very well; there is no dumb ass vacine,use the best your wallet will allow.......... boat dr

second that put it's really a matter of saftey than being cheap and an extra 5 bucks never killed anyone.

Think again,

Those are for low weight ratings, class I-III. Yours should be for a class IV and I would use grade 5's minimum regardless your talking about a couple of bucks for piece of mind. Don't skimp when it comes to your families safty or for the classic your towing.

kinda makes you wonder ,what did you use for the spring bolts,shackleand what abuot u-bolts for the axle,did you replace the spring pinch bolt, all of these are grade 5 or better,but what the hell its only money........ boat dr

    I agree with going with a higher grade bolts as it wont rust out as fast either. I also like to use 4 individual bolts, washers, and locknuts if access is obtainable. 2 long bolts straight thru dont tighten well as it wants to flatten the box tubing. Grade 2 (no dashes on head) or 304 stainless I personally would stay away from totally. My .02 and 1/2 worth.

                                       Jeff...

your such a d*ck, I guess the F stands for F ck wade.


David you've got to be the cheapest basterd around and not very knowledgable when it comes to doing the job the right way cheap ass.

...and yeah, you must be right. Have you seen my boat! And yes, just the response I expected from you.