high idle when slowing down |
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weitekampt
Senior Member Joined: July-08-2006 Location: Fisher, IL Status: Offline Points: 457 |
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Posted: August-11-2006 at 10:19am |
Probably a bad title, but I am having a heck of a time figuring out why I have a high idle (1000-1200)RPM's after I come off a high speed cruise or after pulling a skier. It isn't every time, but 80% or more. I have adjusted everything so the throttle plates are closed when in the neutral position. Maybe there is still a small crack remaining between the throttle plates and the "sides"? I have been fighting this for 3 years now and I am getting a bit tired of it. Plus, it isn't good on the trans at all.
Could anybody tell me where to start looking to solve this problem PLEASE! Thanks! |
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David F
Platinum Member Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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You might try readjusting your throttle cable as follows:
1. Disconnect cable from carburetor. 2. Place throttle control in forward detent position. I.e. tranny in gear, but at idle speed. 3. Adjust end of cable so that when connected to carburetor the throttle plates remain closed. Most people do not do step #2 and thus can have problems. Not saying this will fix it, but is where I would start. You might want to check to make sure the high idle cam, if present, is not sticking. Check for binding of the throttle cable. |
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GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3333 |
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Also, If you can rotate the secondary throttle plate a little by hand when at idle, then almost certain it is hanging open a bit after a run. ReBend the closing rod so it forces the secondaries fully closed at idle. When the carbs get old they get 'knotchy' and can hang open a bit.
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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79nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
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is it a FI or carb motor?
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David F
Platinum Member Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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Most likely carb as FI did not show up until '94 (TBI)...his signature says '93.
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weitekampt
Senior Member Joined: July-08-2006 Location: Fisher, IL Status: Offline Points: 457 |
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Awesome advise guys. I will go look at that later tonight. I am hoping to get it out this weekend but my honey-do list is pretty long. I have messed with the linkage and it did get funny going into forward and reverse. Funny as in it would engage but too much fuel was being delivered. Once engaged, i was able to pull back on the throttle and make it run right. Reverse got a little silly that way too. So it looks like I need to do this procedure and get it set per the instructions.
AWESOME!! |
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David F
Platinum Member Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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That is the classic symptom of an imporperly adjusted throttle cable. You will find that you end up moving the cable end significantly.
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79nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
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I would say that it needs adjusted at the throttle as well as at the carb. The cable should not move forward at the carb when engaging a gear. Now if you are going past the detent when shifting from neutral thats a little different and I would call that driver error rather than bad adjustment.
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GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3333 |
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I concur, sounds more like cable adjustmemt. I find adjusting so the cable provides slight closing presure at the idle stop, is often just right.
And he brass ends at the morse are likely sawed about 1/2 way through or more by now. |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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weitekampt
Senior Member Joined: July-08-2006 Location: Fisher, IL Status: Offline Points: 457 |
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Well, when on vacation I decided to make these adjustments. I moved the ball socket on the carb linkage because the throttle plates were staying open. then I decided to lower the bracket because it has always bound somewhat. Got it on a level field finally. Adjusted the ball socket for the proper length (or so I thought) so it would slide right on the carb. Everything seemed to be better because I was now getting the full speed out of the boat and it was much smoother throughout the throttle travel of the lever. BUT that is when I started getting these engaging problems. So that is the full story. It has always engaged forward and reverse properly...like new...but the throttle plates were forced open a bit. That is why I did this.
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GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3333 |
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Ok, other side...Take the morse down and adjust the pre-load on the spring by adjusting the brass end on the throttle cable.. I think more preload is in order.
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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weitekampt
Senior Member Joined: July-08-2006 Location: Fisher, IL Status: Offline Points: 457 |
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I looked at that on vacation and it looks pretty complex. I am not around the boat, but is that something that screws can be taken out from the "outside" and pull the mechanism out to work on or is it something you have to "press and guess" your forehead against the wall to figure out. Sorry for the stupid question, but it sounds like I have tinkered too much and may have gotten myself into too much trouble already.
What is this brass thing you are talking about and what would this adjustment really do? Sorry, I always have questions and want to improve my boat. |
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