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chazcheadle 
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Joined: March-24-2011 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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 Posted: March-25-2011 at 12:30pm |
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It has always knuckled for me, and from looking at the mechanism, it looks like this behavior is normal- at least for this model. Above, Eric mentions that some models should have a positive reverse lock and that some of those that should may be over adjusted and not lock. Presumably then, some models do not possess a positive reverse lock at any adjustment level.
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: March-25-2011 at 10:09pm |
Chaz, Didn't Westerbeke buy the manufacturing rights from Universal and continue building the Atom 4? I seem to recall that running across that when I was reseaching a raw water pump I needed for the 1927 Universal I rebuilt. The Atomic being such a "blow boat"  engine, I'm not up on what happen'd with the Atomic.
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eric lavine
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Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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Posted: March-26-2011 at 10:39am |
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well, first off its good to see 3 pages of transmission do's and dont's, but i have assessed that the knuckling in was probably more designed for the twin screw boat.
I swear i spent 2 hours and maybe 15 calls on a Paragon mechanical on a blow boat, and the guy was trying to adjust it 3 weeks ago in St Pete, he never new it knuckled and he owned the boat for 35 years...it always dragged, but he did get it to the point that it did knuckle into reverse and balanced the linkage so it would not drag, I can only make recomendations and he felt there would be no safety issues when the trans knuckles in. these trannies are tempremental and do take some time to adjust them correctly, but they do have a sweet spot. I still have a ton of mechanical stuff laying around and parts are still available new. the biggest problem i find when i tear into them are the sloppy planetaries and shafts...easily fixable. but i sloppy trans is that much more harder to adjust because of slop |
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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chazcheadle
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Joined: March-24-2011 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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Posted: March-26-2011 at 3:04pm |
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Is there a point at which you can tighten the forward and reverse in a way to close in on that sweet spot? As it is it seems that there is no resistance or knuckling at neutral and the slightest wiggle either way will start engaging the clutch.
-chaz |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: March-26-2011 at 7:39pm |
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Chaz,
There isn't a detent for neutral. Yes, it only takes a slight movement of the shift lever to start engaging forward or reverse but, more at the helm. A good example would be running a mechanical on dry land. If run for any length of time, the vibrations will normally throw the shift lever forward or backward causing the prop to spin. |
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dillrepair
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Joined: May-14-2012 Location: milwaukee Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Posted: May-14-2012 at 3:21am |
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okay... hopefully y'all are still around... after hours of searching this is the first place i've come that actually seems like it might have some knowledgable people to ask about my Paragon SAOV attached to my westerbeke w30 in the belly of a Cal 34 III. I'm hoping someone can tell me if i'm going in the right direction. as of now it will engage into reverse but you have to apply too much pressure to the lever (imo)... pulling it hard back. I sucked out some ugly black gunk out of the transmission with my oil extractor and replaced it with dexron III. Was this a mistake? the placard on the transmission says to use automatic transmission fluid, but who knows what that means with a 34 year old transmission. I want to make sure i haven't filled it with the wrong fluid first off. if i did what should i do? and second will the adjustment mentioned previously by chaz in this thread be enough to fix it? I haven't taken the cover off to see if the guts are the same. Right now i'm out of town for a few days. I'd really appreciate everyone's advice, and thanks much in advance.
-Pat |
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eric lavine
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Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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Posted: May-14-2012 at 8:56am |
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dexron will be fine, do a couple flushes to get the gunk out
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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eric lavine
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Posted: May-14-2012 at 8:58am |
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if you have further questions, call Paragon (great lakes power) 440-951-5111 ask for chuck in parts
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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dillrepair
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Posted: May-20-2012 at 5:40am |
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yeah that was my next step... i suppose the simplest things always occur to me last. anyway thanks much for the advice.. i'm going to try adjusting things in the next few days and will get back on here with results.
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chazcheadle
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Joined: March-24-2011 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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Posted: May-20-2012 at 3:43pm |
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I forgot to post this last year regarding my transmission project:
Satan's evil clutch Another thought occurred to me The transmission is not a reducing kind, so it doesn't change the direction of the shaft output, would that have any bearing on how the forward and reverse engaging behaves? Knuckling into forward and holding to keep reverse would seem to be the desired behavior, but are opposite in how the unit seems to function. Or is that just crazy talk? Chaz |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: May-20-2012 at 5:09pm |
Chaz, No it doesn't matter if the trans is a reduction, yes it is "crazy talk" and yes you need to understand the basic marine trans. Whether it's a mechanical or hydraulic if you get a chance, I suggest you find some exploded views and study them so you understand how both work. Rotation doesn't matter. When the forward clutch pack engages, the input shaft is coupled to the output shaft. When the reverse clutch engages, the planetary gear set takes over. The input rotation goes through this planetary reversing the input and then out the back. |
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chazcheadle wrote: