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351w harmonic balancer RR

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mmasariu View Drop Down
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    Posted: August-23-2018 at 8:57pm
Anyone have a good 351w RR Harmonic balancer on the shelf? Or have a good lead on where I can track one down. Mine outer ring with timing marks has separated and I don’t trust myself with doing a rebuild.
Thanks
Matt Masariu
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-23-2018 at 9:15pm
these guys in the link will probably be able to help

link

Or these guys

link

Both places can rebuild what you have now
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwcar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2019 at 7:16pm
I am having a new Harmonic balancer built. Talked to Ron today at Damper Dudes. He is asking for a Casting# I can not read what mine is due to corrosion. Anyone have this info for an 83 Ski Nautique?? or know what info I need to give him to get the right one built?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2019 at 9:37pm
The PCM part number which probably won't help at all is R064004.

A couple of numbers I have written down are

Ford part number C90E-6316-E1 which is for a normal rotation marine 351W with 3 bolt holes for the pulley. I'm looking at one in my hands right now so I'm confident in that number.

Since yours is reverse rotation he could work from that part and reverse the timing markings for your Reverse Rotation application.

I also have written down D1JE-6316-A1A as being for a RR 351W with 3 bolt holes, but don't have one in front of me to look at, so that might be questionable   Edit, I found this one (The D1JE-6316-A1A) and got a look at it and it is for a 351RR

I think the Damper Doctor lists one of those,

You could have the Dude call the Doctor, it's a local call between them
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwcar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2019 at 11:10pm
Thanks Ken!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2019 at 10:34am
If you get an electronic advance timing light then all you need is TDC or "0"     Dial in your advance on the light that you want and then it flashes on Zero when you get it set. ALL readings are from Zero on the balancer. No more guess work. My light shows RPM and Timing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwcar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2019 at 2:22pm
Interesting. I will look into to that Duane.

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2019 at 4:46pm
This is the one I use. Am sure that there are other makes also that are capable of doing what you need. The beauty of these is that you only have to paint TDC or Zero on the balancer and then everything is read from that line. The light flashes on whatever you set it at and flashes on the TDC line. And the RPMs are on the split screen.

timing light
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwcar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-19-2019 at 10:00pm
Thanks for the info Duane. One more question. Will the bolt in the center of the HB be a lefty loosy or righty loosy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-19-2019 at 10:29pm
Originally posted by dwcar dwcar wrote:

Thanks for the info Duane. One more question. Will the bolt in the center of the HB be a lefty loosy or righty loosy


Actually a "Righty Tighty"
RH thread and most likely TIGHT
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-20-2019 at 12:00am
Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:

Originally posted by dwcar dwcar wrote:

Thanks for the info Duane. One more question. Will the bolt in the center of the HB be a lefty loosy or righty loosy


Actually a "Righty Tighty"
RH thread and most likely TIGHT


So it's a lefty loosey

A decent impact wrench will spin it out with no problem at all. The torque spec is 70 to 90 ft lbs.

A good puller/installation tool will come in handy too, especially the installation tool.

No fair using a hammer and brute force to put the new one on
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-20-2019 at 9:03am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

So it's a lefty loosey


Kinda like wiring duplex outlets:
Whitey*****Brighty
Black*******Gold     (like beverly hillbillies oil, black/gold)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-20-2019 at 11:41pm
Why Run Backwards You Varmint
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwcar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2019 at 2:48pm
Thanks again guys!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwcar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-25-2019 at 10:39pm


Couple more questions guys. The new HB is a little thicker. I don't see it being a problem. It is the same height as the old one. Pulley should sit in the same location. Do you agree?

The rubber gasket on the end of the shaft is pretty jacked up. Should I replace it? Where do I get one?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2019 at 12:13am
The extra thickness is on the backside and may interfere with the timing cover a little (my 302 did and required a little clearancing).

Rubber gasket, wtf?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2019 at 5:09am
There is a seal in the timing cover that should be replaced. Any parts store would have it on hand or could get it in 1 day for you. National, Fel-Pro or SKF would have them and actually make their parts.
Maybe it is a bad picture but it looks like your timing cover is not far from rusting through?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2019 at 9:47am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

The extra thickness is on the backside and may interfere with the timing cover a little (my 302 did and required a little clearancing).

Rubber gasket, wtf?


What he said

There's no rubber gasket there.

Just the big metal washer and the big bolt.

I think I'd be asking the Damper Dude why there's a difference

I can take a picture and give you a measurement of the clearance of a stock damper to the timing cover a little later today.

Pretty hard to rust through that thick hunk of cast iron, I think you had water leaking down from a leaking water pump for a period of time to cause the rust in the picture.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2019 at 10:02am
Are they the same ounce counterweight ???   Pic maybe deceiving but they don't look the same.
One seems heavier.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2019 at 10:07am
Both dampers seat on the surface that the steel scale is sitting on.   I don't see where there would be a clearance issue. Everything is referenced from that face.
But, I've been wrong before
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2019 at 10:23am
That's RTV sealant. Ford used RTV to seal up the nose of the crank to the damper. Every virgin one I have taken apart has has RTV there, They will weep a little oil out onto the damper if you don't use any RTV. Ask me how I know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2019 at 10:23am
Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:

Both dampers seat on the surface that the steel scale is sitting on.   I don't see where there would be a clearance issue. Everything is referenced from that face.
But, I've been wrong before


The issue can come into play where the thicker outer ring comes into contact with timing cover before the surface you reference can seat firmly on the crank.   I seem to recall needing to grind around the base of the timing pointer a few times. Otherwise you crank the damper on and find that your engine doesn't seem to roll over to quickly. I assume thats just nasty sludge or RTV on the front of that crank. I get my engines mixed up lately but I believe in addition to the new seal referenced above on the timing cover you also need to put some thread sealant on that bolt if you want to keep oil from leaking out around the threads - so that gunk maybe what was thrown at that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2019 at 10:33am
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:

Both dampers seat on the surface that the steel scale is sitting on.   I don't see where there would be a clearance issue. Everything is referenced from that face.
But, I've been wrong before


The issue can come into play where the thicker outer ring comes into contact with timing cover before the surface you reference can seat firmly on the crank.   I seem to recall needing to grind around the base of the timing pointer a few times. Otherwise you crank the damper on and find that your engine doesn't seem to roll over to quickly. I assume thats just nasty sludge or RTV on the front of that crank. I get my engines mixed up lately but I believe in addition to the new seal referenced above on the timing cover you also need to put some thread sealant on that bolt if you want to keep oil from leaking out around the threads - so that gunk maybe what was thrown at that.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2019 at 12:07pm
Here's a picture taken from the side

There is about 1 1/16 inches clearance on the stock balancer ring before it would contact anything on the timing cover.

On the hub, there is about 3/8 inch clearance before it would hit in the seal area.

So it sure looks like the new one wouldn't have any clearance issues.

One question though, is the new on drilled for mounting the 3 hole pulley like you have?

Later ones were 4 bolt

I'd check with the Damper Dude on the imbalance being the same just to be sure .

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-03-2019 at 4:41pm
I figured I'd add a part number for a balancer that's the same as the original for a 351W that takes a 3 bolt pulley. That's a 351W up to 1993. After 1993 it was a different balancer which was used with a 4 bolt pulley.

The timing marks are for a normal rotation engine so if you have a reverse rotation you can mark it as necessary

A Dayco PB 1008N balancer sells for 61 bucks plus shipping from Rock Auto.

You can find cheaper ones and more expensive ones at Rock Auto but I have this one in my grubby little hands to compare to a stock one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwcar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-03-2019 at 11:38pm
I talked to the Damper Dude. He does not think I will have any clearance problems. It is a 3 bolt. I have removed the timing cover and there is a little slack or looseness in my chain. Should I replace or do you think it is ok??


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehmGUbLKOXY&feature=youtu.be
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2019 at 7:37am
Originally posted by dwcar dwcar wrote:

I talked to the Damper Dude. He does not think I will have any clearance problems. It is a 3 bolt. I have removed the timing cover and there is a little slack or looseness in my chain. Should I replace or do you think it is ok??


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehmGUbLKOXY&feature=youtu.be


You could get all kinds of opinions on whether it's too loose or not, but I'd replace the timing set because in the video it looks like the cam gear is one of the aluminum gears with nylon coated teeth that were used for a number of years.

They will eventually start to spit the nylon off the gear.

You could use either a double roller or a silent replacement set. You don't need anything fancy, just standard replacement

After the new timing set is installed, do the same video and post it for a comparison of the slack   

You wouldn't want your gear to look like this semi toothless wonder. It's a GM gear, but you get the idea.

Those missing chunks end up in the oil system and the timing is more than a little erratic

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2019 at 2:10pm
Hello I have a 351 rr parts
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I have what your looking for pm me
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwcar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2019 at 9:59pm
Don78. Can you post pictures of what you have?
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