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Winterize a 2000 nautique

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david36 View Drop Down
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    Posted: October-04-2018 at 5:11pm
How to winterize a 2000 correct craft properly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2018 at 5:14pm
This has been covered no less than 500 times in various threads. Use the forum search function and you'll have enough reading for days.
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2018 at 5:41pm
David,
Sounds like you don't have the engine manual. It's downloadable from the CCfan reference section.

What ever you do or hear, DRAIN and then add the antifreeze. DO NOT simply pump it through the engine.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote david36 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2018 at 11:45am
Thank you so much.
How do you go about winterizing the ballast system on a 2000 Nautique.
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GHTILL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GHTILL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2018 at 6:43pm
If I was going to keep my boat in a heated garage, safe from any freezing weather, especially since i live in Texas where it doesn't really get cold enough to freeze an engine block, what you you recommend doing for the carb and plugs? Should i still fog both?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2018 at 7:18pm
Originally posted by GHTILL GHTILL wrote:

, what do you recommend doing for the carb and plugs? Should i still fog both?

Gregg,
You will want to Sta-bil the fuel for the carb and then fog the engine not the plugs.

Do keep an eye on the temps. If it's predicted to go below say 30 degrees for several days, you may want to put a Incandescent bulb under the dog house. I seem to remember someone in Texas had a problem one year. Why don't you just drain it? There are only 5 points to open up.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2018 at 8:44pm
If I lived in Texas with a heated garage, I'd still listen to Pete.

It'll take you all of an hour if you're really slow to drain the water and reinstall the drain plugs/hoses .

I wouldn't listen to Pete about 5 drain points though

2 block drains
2 exhaust manifold drains
1 drain on the u tube to the circulating pump
1 drain on the transmission cooler or pull the hose off the inlet to the raw water pump instead and lower it as far as you can in the bilge. This will drain the cooler and also any water that's in the raw water pump.

However hard I try to get 5, I keep getting 6 for an answer

When you get that record cold spell and an extended power outage at the same time, you won't have to worry about the air in your engine and cooling system freezing. or draining it in the dark with a flashlight because you're getting nervous

Now if you have a suction strainer or a shower or heater in the boat, that number of drain points could increase from 6

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2018 at 8:51pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

I wouldn't listen to Pete about 5 drain points though

This will drain the cooler and also any water that's in the raw water pump.

However hard I try to get 5, I keep getting 6 for an answer

Now if you have a suction strainer or a shower or heater in the boat, that number of drain points could increase from 6


OK Ken I forgot to mention the trans cooler. I should have since I just drained one today! Thanks for the reminder that I forgot. Lets see, what did I have for breakfast this morning?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2018 at 8:56pm
One other thing, It'll cut down on internal engine and manifold corrosion if you don't have water sitting in them all winter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2018 at 9:06pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

   Lets see, what did I have for breakfast this morning?


I'm like a trained monkey, I have the same thing every morning so it's fairly easy to remember what I had

I hope that was politically correct and I didn't offend any monkeys
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2018 at 9:21pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:


It'll take you all of an hour if you're really slow to drain the water and reinstall the drain plugs/hoses .

Today was 5 point drain and the trans cooler plus a Stay-bil and a fog and a gal. of the -50 degree. It took just under an hour and that included running the engine for about 10 minutes to get the stabilized gas into the carb.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2018 at 10:43pm
I don't bother draining my cooler seems like a waste of time. Aren't all modern PCM conversions vertical mount?





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2018 at 11:02pm
Maybe a waste of your time, not mine

What drains the water that's in the hose between the cooler and the raw water pump since that's the low point of the cooling system other than the hull intake?

When I take the top hose off the cooler to see what's in there and the cooler is full of water, one of those little voices says"you really ought to drain that thing"

Maybe you're one of them "suck up the pink stuff" guys in which case all the antifreeze has to pass thru the cooler and that water will be long gone.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2018 at 11:32pm
You said it yourself-1 drain on the transmission cooler or pull the hose off the inlet to the raw water pump instead and lower it as far as you can in the bilge

As soon as you remove the hose off the raw water pump,we all pull the pump don't we?, that comes from the cooler, gravity takes over dropping the hose to the bottom of the boat and draining the hose and cooler. Boat sits on lift all year,have not removed the hoses or plug on the cooler in 4 years. Always use the pour method. As you know it gets pretty cold here so I'm told. The other PCM boat when put away for the season doesn't even get drained,water won't freeze at 80. I'll be back before the temp plummets down to the 70's
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2018 at 11:57pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

I don't bother draining my cooler seems like a waste of time. Aren't all modern PCM conversions vertical mount?


So in spite of what you said above , you do drain the cooler the same way I do from the sounds of it.

You take the hose off of the RWP and it drains

What did I say in the Sherwood pump thread a few days ago?

it was ....... like most things in life, there's usually more than one way to accomplish the job
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GHTILL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-08-2018 at 10:21am
Love to hear all you guys talk. Seems we all love boats! I'd much rather tinker in the garage on my boat than work out in the yard any day! Thanks again folks.
TWSS
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frozenskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-17-2018 at 12:27pm
A little off topic but related to winterizing. My O9 196 Nautique w the 5.7l Excalibur has a heater. Most difficult part of winterizing is getting the heater hoses off the block to blow so I can blow out the heater core. Does anyone know of some type of fitting or T connection that could be connected to the heater hoses 6 or so inches down the hose to make it easier to disconnect? Maybe already on another thread? Pictures? Tried the search function but didn't find anything relevant. Thanks for any help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-17-2018 at 12:31pm
Brass garden hose quick disconnects fit 5/8” heater hose nicely. Disconnect both and use lung power to drain the core. I install them in opposite polarity (and strategically installed) in case my core breaks- it can be quickly bypassed.

McMaster sells them.
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