Engine pulleys

You could always take 'em off and send 'em out to the chrome shop...

JQ

Or paint them silver metallic/clear coat.

Or you could go billet.   Some nice kits or pieces & parts HERE.

They look pretty good options thanks. Any idea if I need any particular sizes? I'm aware that I need a 4 hole crank pulley but I've no idea about any sizes etc.

Those billet ones look lovely but I'm not sure I can bear paying that sort of money for what is basically just some bling!

I recently had all of my pulleys powder coated a "chrome" color. Basically a bright silver with clear over top. I had the valve covers done as well. Its not real chrome, but all of my parts will match.

Yup, that looks great.

I went for the billet stuff from cvf in the end, but have waited for the adjusting rod for the alternator until I figure out what size I'll need.

Will let you know progress early spring when boat comes out of hibernation!

Sure,CVF recommended SBFS2KIT and WP-CAP.

I'll caveat this by saying that I haven't installed them yet as the boat is still hibernating but they certainly look correct to me. In my case that includes a 4 bolt crank pulley.

Calum,
Stretch a tape measure around the sheaves of the paths of each belt. That will give you a idea of the length of each belt. take the measurement with the take ups adjusted close to the minimum as the belts sit slightly below or at the outside diameter of the sheaves.

Goldcup101 wrote: It's all very odd, virtually every crank pulley for the 351w seems to be 5.4" exceot the PCM one at 6 1/4. Why would they change that for a marinised version???

The original early year 351 marine engines up thru 1993 used several parts from the 289/early 302 engine like the 3 bolt harmonic balancer, the 157 tooth flywheel, and the crank pulley which I think is really 6 1/8 inches but what's an 1/8 inch matter.

Only a guess but I figure Ford who supplied the parts on the engine to PCM, Indmar, VolvoPenta, OMC etc wanted to keep the same pulley size with a different offset to go along with the thickness difference of the balancers to be able to use the same brackets and equipment on the front of the engine when they went to the 4 bolt balancer and associated pulley in 1994.

The automotive 351w's used the 4 bolt balancer from the beginning in 1969 and of course used different pulley diameters just to make life miserable when doing what you're trying to do.

Don't make a science project out of it, do what Pete described to come up with a belt or belts, but I think I'd check pulley alignment before going too far.

Been there, done that Calum.   When I replaced my engine last year it came with a new automotive (performance) balancer. I was able to use my original pulley, but the balancer was about 2 or 3mm thinner than the original. Lining everything up was just a matter of adding a spacer to the back and all is good. Depending on your situation, this could be just as simple. Of course it could go the other way if the pulley is too deep and add a bit more of a challenge.   Most everything has a solution though

KENO wrote: Don't make a science project out of it, do what Pete described to come up with a belt or belts,.

I like taking a piece of 1/2" rope and wrapping it around all the pulley's. Cut it to length. Then take the rope with you to the parts store. Same end result, just easier for me.

Goldcup101 wrote: The other pulleys are identical to the old ones as far as I can tell so alternator speed would reduce as well as the raw water pump. I've no idea if this is a big deal or not. .

I won't claim to know how much a 12% reduction in flow at all engine speeds will affect your cooling, but the same Sherwood pump was used on 310 HP GT40's and some pretty low HP 302's like a 165 HP 2 barrel and it had no issues supplying either engine. Also on some modified 351's with a fair amount more HP.

Using that logic, I'd figure it's worth a try if you just gotta have those shiny pulleys