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94 Sport electrical drain

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JB2016 View Drop Down
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    Posted: March-25-2019 at 1:24pm
Ok so this last summer, I was having a problem with my battery draining and now my wanting to start without being jumped. So I figured maybe it was a breaker and replaced them all with new ones from Nautiqueparts and also bought a new alternator and battery. With the new battery it will start but after running a while and killing the boat with the ignition and key off, my ignition light remains on, not sure what this is, and what causes the light to come on, but it seems like power is still being drawn from the battery. Now I planned on pulling the dash off again and tracing wires and stuff but I’m not very good at electrical stuff, any keys to what might cause this. I thought it was the breaker but I just replaced them all. New alternator and new battery still drains. I’m trying to get the boat ready for summer and rest to sell but don’t want to sell with this problem. But I’m wanting to updgrade to 2019 or maybe 2020 210. Any help???
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bfootr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bfootr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2019 at 1:31pm
Assuming you have fuses or circuit breakers, you can put an amp meter in line on the cable to the battery, then disconnect each fuse or hit each breaker one at a time until the electrical drain ceases. When it does, you’ve found the device causing the parasitic draw.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JB2016 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2019 at 6:31pm
Now forgive me but I’m not to mechanically inclined, but I was just out and messing with the boat, hooked up some jumper cables, with the key off and the ignition switch engaged, what seems to be the fuel pump is making a humming noise as if it’s running without the boat being on. Is this normal? I’ve never heard it before and wondered if this might be the gremlin and what would be the remedy, I unplugged one of the wires and it stopped.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bfootr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2019 at 6:51pm
I would suspect the fuel pump should come on only when you turn the key. If so and it’s coming on with the key off, then this could be the culprit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2019 at 8:09pm
This may sound silly, but I've noticed the ignition switches on this era are prone to getting loose and spinning. Could you have inadvertently left the key on?   If not, perhaps get a VOM and check power to and from the switch, even when it's off. Wouldn't be the first switch to go bad, And yes, the fuel pump shouldn't be powered when the ignition switch is off.
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JB2016 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JB2016 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2019 at 9:45pm
Well they key was off and the ignition switch on. I believe I can remove the key completely and just press the ignition switch and the fuel pump comes on. My dealer replaced the protec system last spring if my memory serves me correctly and since then I’ve had this drain come up. A buddy of mine trailered my boat one evening and left a switch on and since then I’ve been having problems. I thought maybe when he left the switch on it caused the battery to drain and no big deal, but it’s been draining since. If I’m on the lake I’m forced to leave the boat running or rely on a jump box. I have no problem cranking with a jump, and boat runs fine if I’m out, I can kill it and it will fire up immediately but within 15 mins of sitting with the boat off, the boat does t even have enough juice to turn over.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2019 at 9:59pm
John,
As previously mentioned, get the VOM out and do a parasitic load test


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Air206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2019 at 10:53pm
I'm confused by your original post. You have a keyed ignition switch as well as an ignition breaker on the dash, right? When you say the light is on with the key off, you mean the ignition breaker light, right? If so, that's supposed to happen. Ignition breaker should be "on" for the dash switches (keyed and others) to work.

If the ignition breaker is off but the dash switches work - you have a poorly wired or bad ignition breaker. If all is quiet when the ignition breaker is off, you should do a drain test at the dash as recommended......BUT, my bet is a silly Pro-Tec change. You didn't say how the Pro-Tec was changed. DUIs are the simplest and even then you need to be sure to be on the correct side of the fuse and switch for power. My bet is you have an injected engine and the power to the distributor and ignition is not switched correctly since the swap. Mine was easier to swap because I kept the original harness and I could trace wires more easily. Follow your battery wires (make sure they don't go to an unswitched monster AMP). Once they are at the motor fuse plate, make sure the positive ignition wires all go to the correct places (Check out the reference section on the site). It is something an auto mechanic should be able to track down if the draw REALLY is THAT large of a current load. Your Pro-Tec swapper should prove his work..............that would be the most likely source of the current drain.

However, even with an incorrectly wired replacement ignition, it would be hard to imagine that much current draw that you can't restart the boat after turning it off on the lake. You sure your alternator is charging the battery? Why did you change it? When you change everything in the electrical system, you have to check everything was replaced correctly. If you aren't comfortable with wiring, I think you need someone who is looking over your shoulder.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JB2016 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2019 at 11:06am
If the battery is charged, and all switches are off the ignition light still remained on as well as the automatic bilge light. No key, and all switch breakers off, the lights remain on with a charged battery, I was thinking this might be the problem, I’m gonna use a test light later today and see what I can come up with. I’m not at all comfortable messing with electronics, but I don’t wanna pay for the dealer to look through the boat and cost me a bunch of money for something like a fuse or exposed wire or poor connection. And I’ve loooked through the forums on similar issues and have found a lot of information I keep going back to for reference. But having someone discuss these things while I work on it kinda helps. I apologize if these kind of posts are getting old. But I’ll also keep scanning the forums and checking it out.
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