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1949 CC Jr. Restoration

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Trent View Drop Down
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    Posted: March-29-2020 at 1:07am
Alright...

I need some advice from the forum.

Last week I purchased a 1949 Correct Craft Junior.

The motor will turn over if it is primed.
All of the parts seem to be with the boat, including the windshield.
It's in pretty rough shape and someone fiberglassed the entire outside.
The bottom needs to be replaced and as a lot of fiberglass patches.
The stringers will need replacement and many of the frames are in need of crippling or replacement as well.
I have the tools to do most of the work, but this would be my first foray into wood boats. I want something that works and looks good.

So...

What should I do?

Options:
- glass it up, replace the stringers and get it running
- strip the glass and replace all of the wood necessary
- give up while I'm still ahead and find something that is not so bad
- ????
























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Trent View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trent Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2020 at 1:22am
Forgot to mention:

I'm in Wonder Lake (Northern Illinois).

Gray Marine Parts is nearby in St. Charles.

I have access to wood and can probably get help from a Lake Geneva restorer if needed.

If anyone named Alan wants to give any advice, it would be greatly appreciated. And thanks for the new t-shirts. The wife and I both love them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2020 at 8:51am
Trent,
The proper way to restore the Junior is to remove all the skin down to the frame. No more glass! I feel you will find some frame rot and the transom frame is always the typical spot. Hopefully and you may already understand that the restoration will be a "labor of love", involve many man hours and costs will exceed the value. If it was mine and considering it's a Junior, I would go for it.

Last I heard, the Gray parts are no longer in St. Charles.

Van Ness bought them up.


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Nautiquehunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2020 at 9:39am
2nd that
If you have the time,skill and money it will be a head turner when you are done. Or if you have an extra 260k laying around get yourself one of those Paragons???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2020 at 10:45am
Trent

I'd like to congratulate you on making what may be the longest "run on" picture in the history of CCF

If you put an extra space between each picture with the "enter" key, you'll have a space between each picture and it'll be a lot easier for people to look at.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2020 at 11:26am
These hulls have a special eye appeal. Can’t imagine there are many around. My favorite of the ones we have. Our 1950 has been under a slow restoration for quite a while now. The rebuild is a long and at times challenging project. You have to really want it to see it through. Our 1960 Atom Skier has come first for the last year or so. Need to move it to a new owner and get back to the 1950 as that is my most rewarding project. Fortunately ours was in a little better condition when we got it but still needed extensive repairs.
The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trent Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2020 at 4:32pm
Thank you all for the feedback. Consensus is that it must be restored.

Most of the frames are bad. I'm anticipating the transom will need some help, and I may have to cut out and scarf the keel.

The boat will look nice, but I plan on using it 3-4X per week May-Oct. It will sit on a lift at home. I'm not anticipating that I will be able to achieve a perfect restoration, but will try to stay true to the boat. No fancy electronics or new engine type stuff.

First, I assume I'll have to take the engine, controls, what's left of the gas tank, rudder, strut, log, and other bits out of it.

Question #1: What is the next step?

Question #2: Holding the structure when I take it apart.
The stringers need to be replaced and many of the frames are in bad shape. I'm concerned that the boat will warp when I remove the skins. Do I need to build something to hold the shape before I flip it?

Question #3: What wood to save?
The fiberglass will need to be removed to get to the screw holes on the deck, sides and bottom. Do I try to save the sides or just build new ones?
If I build new, I will only remove the fiberglass over the screw holes and not care about ripping off some wood. I will take care to keep the sides in good enough shape to use as a template for the new ones. If I should save the sides, I need to heat and scrap off the fiberglass.

Question #4: Measurements?
What are the key measurements I need to take before I remove / replace something? I'm concerned about the engine placement, shaft log, rudder, etc.

Question #5: Wood sides or paint? I'm okay with paint, but wood looks awful nice. The sides will be relatively thin, and I'm not sure I will be able to plug the screw holes, and I prefer to not have famowood in them if the sides will not be painted. I'm no expert with a scarf joint, so that will not look great either. The deck and transom will be wood.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 67 ski nat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2020 at 10:28pm
Welcome. You’re come to right place
Brave soul. Take your time and enjoy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2020 at 12:13pm
Trent,
Here's my Atom down to the frame.

Removing the skins allows you full access to the frame. The transom frame and stem are typically in need of repair/replacement. Remove as much as you can from the hull. Temporarily screw some 1x's between the frames and then flip the hull. The 1x's will maintain the shape when you remove the skins.

The Junior's were available ether painted or bright (stain and varnish). It looks like yours was painted so that makes restoration easier. Any ply skin that's still in good shape can be reused and minor holes can be epoxy filled. A ply bright hull gets real complicated due to the complexity of scarfing todays ply together with less than 1/64" face veneers.

Looks like a PO has been doing some back yard hacking on the prop shaft log. The reasoning is beyond me but it looks like the original log was removed, a rubber sleeve was epoxied in, then springs added to keep the "U" jointed shaft somewhat in line. That's got to go.

Keep the pictures coming.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trent Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2020 at 6:48pm
Thanks! I thought that U joint was not original. Looks like I'll have to buy a new shaft too!

Not sure what they fiberglassed in on the shaft log. It might be brass under there.

I'm concerned about the structure with the broken stringers. Do replace these before I strip the bottom, sides, and frames?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2020 at 6:57pm
Trent,
Regarding the log, I think I can see an impression on the inner keel where the original bronze one was.

I didn't see where the stringer(s) was broken but in any case, just temporarily screw a sister next to the break.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trent Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2020 at 6:05pm
Some new pics. I've started pulling off all of the fiberglass. It's over the entire boat. Top, bottom, sides, etc.. I'm getting some nice big sections, but some take forever to pull back to get to the screws.

Any tips or tricks on how to get the famowood out of the screw holes easier than just digging it out with a small screw driver?





Doesn't look too bad under the deck! I might be able to save all of this wood.


Pile of fiberglass
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Trent View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trent Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2020 at 6:10pm
The log is gone. A PVC tube was epoxied in and then an insert of some sort was made for it.

Any recommended sources for good logs and shafts?

I'll have to replace the keel in this area I assume. Not a terrible issue, as it probably needs it anyway. There is a lot of oil on it and the bottom, so I'm assuming it will have to be replaced to take resin and paint anyway.

I'm thinking douglas fir for the frames, stringers, chines and keel. The bottom will be marine plywood and the sides will be Okoume if I cannot save the ones that are on it now. Any recommendations?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2020 at 6:15pm
Originally posted by Trent Trent wrote:

Any tips or tricks on how to get the famowood out of the screw holes easier than just digging it out with a small screw driver?


Try a 3/8" Forstner bit.


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