Broken shaft

try cutting the rest of the bad shaft out and press the coupling off in a press, you may have to use a cut off wheel, be careful of the sparks or you can use a h bar puller wih bolts. its hard to use a slide hammer to do this. there are split type couplings available which do not use the taper shaft, you use a straight shaft with a key and the coulping is split down the middle with 2 bolts when you tighten these bolts the coupling is clamped right onto the shaft, they are the cats a$$ they are available from t.m.i 1-800-462-8848

Hey boat dr,

Do you know if I have enough clearance to run these Acme props that folks rave about like the 542 on my 79 Ski Tique with a new but stock shaft?

JoeinNY wrote: the previous owner must have added it because he was storing the boat in salt water, if he hadn't painted over it, it might have been some help.

That's funny!
Aside from the drag/turbulance issues, I'd be concerned about holding a prop in the strut turning at 3-4K rpm that just broke loose from the shaft. It might saw into the hull instead of flying off to the bottom of the lake and that would suck. Plus the prop would be all beat up.

79; my '64 ame w/a 12 in. dia. prop,that was the reason for extending my shaft.you should have the room,measure C/L of prop shaft to the floor of your boat,if you have 7.75in. or more you can swing a 13in. wheel w/no problemo...........boat dr.

i have about 1.30 in. prop to hull clearance,too close and it will burn(pull the gel)the bottom..........

My shaft in my 82 SN broke last year exactly the same way. New shaft, dripless packing, new prop. About two nights to replace it. It was the first time i had ever removed the shaft, so it took me a while. I think I cut the shaft to get it out of the boat. All parts and advice came from SKIDIM.

ernest