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Carter YH Carbs?

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URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12428
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 1:22pm


Topic: Carter YH Carbs?
Posted By: 63CCSN
Subject: Carter YH Carbs?
Date Posted: November-24-2008 at 5:25pm
Hi all!

I'm looking for rebuilt Carter Sidedraft Carbs for my 312 Interceptor. Anyone know of a source for them? I believe they are YH's.

Thanks!



Replies:
Posted By: critter
Date Posted: November-24-2008 at 6:13pm
You try here
http://marinecarburetor.com/pictureid.htm - Carbs

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1980 Ski Nautique
1966 Barracuda


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-24-2008 at 8:35pm
Adam,
You want complete carbs or just the rebuild kits? Kits are available. I just did a search and came up with thousands of hits on "Carter YH". Here's a source for kits. http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/tech/Carter/Y-index.html - yh rebuild kit

If you do rebuild, don't set the float levels by the specs that come in the rebuild instructions. That spec is for level carbs!! Do you have the Interceptor 312 manual? There are some float level specs in it for the forward and aft carbs. They are a starting point.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 63CCSN
Date Posted: November-24-2008 at 8:52pm
I'd like to find complete -- rebuilt carbs that I could just install. Thanks for the link to the kits -- if I can't find rebuilt carbs.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-24-2008 at 9:10pm
Adam,
First, why do you feel you have carb problems? describe whats going on.

If you luck out finding the carbs, I don't know if the seller will be able to set the float levels correctly. If rebuilding is something you don't feel you can handle, maybe you should look for someone to do it for you. You'll need him anyway for the floats.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 63CCSN
Date Posted: November-25-2008 at 10:44am
8122pbrainard -

I'm on the last stage of an engine rebuild. I'm terrible with carbs and had hoped to find a rebuilt set -- rather than by a rebuild kit. I'm not the right man for that job


Any thoughts?!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-25-2008 at 11:14am
Adam,
Dig into the carbs!! You telling me you are doing the engines tells me you do have mechanical skills. I too have done engines and I too was always afraid of carbs but then one day I had to rebuild a up draft. That taught me they really aren't that complicated. The YH's aren't like a 4 bbl. with lots more parts!

So, since you're at the last stages of the rebuild, I now know you haven't tried to run the engine yet. Maybe you'll be surprised and it will run fine!!

The biggest problem with the YH's is the aft carb would puke gas out the arrester when the float needle sticks open. This was the downfall of the side drafts.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-25-2008 at 11:26am
We are not talking about lots of parts ether.
The kit comes with probably three different set of gaskets. You only use some of them depending on the exact model configuration of the YH.



You can do it!

BTW, you never mentioned if you have the Interceptor Y block manual. It has a real nice section on the carbs in it.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-25-2008 at 1:17pm
Pete, is the Y block manual different than the one in the reference section?

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-25-2008 at 2:00pm
Bruce,
Yup, the one in the ref. section with the yellow front cover, covers the Y blocks as well as inline 6's and the 352/390 too. Didn't you or Reid scan and donate it to the site? I remember Reid had offered extra copies to anyone and of course that was a couple weeks after I ordered mine!!!

Adam,
Take a look at it if you don't have it. The YH carbs starts on page 27 of the manual which is page 31 of the PDF file. It covers the operation of the carb.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-25-2008 at 2:05pm
Pete, Reid gave it to me and I scanned it and sent it to the site. He must have had some sort of preminition because after giving it to me we've ended up with 2 Interceptors.

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Posted By: 75 stang
Date Posted: November-26-2008 at 10:49am
If you already have the carbs, my guess is it would be cheaper to send them to the nearest CC dealer for a rebuild than buy a rebuilt set unless the seller is doing it on an exchange basis. when I was at Midwest last they were working on an old wood Atom I believe with side drafts, i'm sure they could help out if you dont want to tackle it.

the thing ive learned about carbs over 20 years of playing with them is that they are not complicated devices. They meter air and fuel. If you follow the instructions and understand how they tune, its just a matter of time and adjustments made till they come around. I used to think Rochesters were junk for years, I finally read the manual and tuning guide to understand them and I like them better than a holley now. The only down draft that kicked my butt had a defective plug in a factory machining passage. That kind of thing is very rare and much easier to diagnose with the internet and all the help around.

Good luck

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Take your work seriously, not yourself.
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-26-2008 at 10:56am
Originally posted by 75 stang 75 stang wrote:

my guess is it would be cheaper to send them to the nearest CC dealer for a rebuild than buy a rebuilt set.

Im not so sure about that- I know that I sure wouldnt necessarily be looking to a CC dealer to rebuild my vintage carburetor! If its not a job you want to tackle yourself, stick with a good rebuilder with good references (dealer or otherwise), as I suspect most dealer service depts lack a tech who has ever had one of these carbs apart.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-26-2008 at 11:09am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by 75 stang 75 stang wrote:

my guess is it would be cheaper to send them to the nearest CC dealer for a rebuild than buy a rebuilt set.

Im not so sure about that- I know that I sure wouldnt necessarily be looking to a CC dealer to rebuild my vintage carburetor! If its not a job you want to tackle yourself, stick with a good rebuilder with good references (dealer or otherwise), as I suspect most dealer service depts lack a tech who has ever had one of these carbs apart.


I have to argee that a dealer would not be my first choice ether. I too will have to say that it would be unusual to find a mechanic at one who has ever had one apart - maybe never even seen a YH!!! Getting a reference from a dealer for a carb rebuilder isn't a bad idea if all else fails. If MWCC has problems with their YH's, they maybe sending them out too!

I did have to go to Watercraft once for my 312 T stats. I couldn't find a source and was over there one day and asked. They said they could get them and they did. I'm sure I paid dearly for them but it wasn't a major expence. I never did find out where they got them!! They were NOS and came in the Eaton box!!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 64X55
Date Posted: November-26-2008 at 11:14am
Pete and/or Riley -- Interesting thread. So, where is the YH carb info. that you guys were discussing? Sounds like you (Riley) mentioned it should be somewhere on the web site here?

My 312 runs, but so does one of the 2 carbs (literally, it "runs" i.e. leaks onto the intake as described above).

This sounds like info. I'm also gonna need too in the future to eliminate that. Appreciate any links to what Pete described above as the "real nice section on the carbs" in the Interceptor Y Block manual.

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Inboards Rule!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-26-2008 at 11:22am
Craig, You've never mentioned the problem with your carbs! Does the gas run out the arrestor constantly or only when you shut down the engine? It makes a difference. I just learned something the other day from Billy (Boatdr) about the inner workings of the YH. Tell me when the gas comes out and I'll fill you in.

The manual is in the ref. section under "manuals". It is the yellow covered Inteceptor. You haven't got one yet?? I thought you were going to get one from marineengine.com a couple years ago!!!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 64X55
Date Posted: November-26-2008 at 12:49pm
Thanks Pete. I'll check for the manual there. Hmmm? Not sure? I noticed it once after I ran it briefly (which has only been like 2 or 3 times - summer before last). My plan was to hook the battery up and turn it over with the coil wire unplugged sometime here soon because it's winterized now but I didn't start it all this past summer. I may have to wait until spring to find out for sure, but I'm keeping notes and I "will" get to it. I noticed it at the rear one but I've heard it said, and it makes sense, that either one, if leaking, will put gas there because of the engine angle.

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Inboards Rule!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-26-2008 at 1:25pm
Ok, here's what I learned about the YH's. The accelerator pumps in them are mechanically AND vacuum operated. When you mash down on the throttle, the acelerator pump is actuated mechanically but also, under other conditions (lighter throttle advance) the vacuum drops it squirts the gas too (smaller amount than mechanical activation). So, when you shut down the engine, vacuum is lost and it squirts gas. If shut down multiple times within a short period of time, is why you have gas out the aft carb. I've never had a issue with gas out the aft carb so your's may need a rebuild. There's a check valve in the accelerator circuit that I suspect isn't doing it's job. BTW, this is the reason some owners of 312's (and Gray 327's) with the side drafts went to down drafts. They didn't want to or didn't know how to fix the problem - rebuid kit. Of course they also felt they would get more out of the engine with the down drafts!!

If gas runs out during running, then it's a bad float level or stuck float needle.

More HP Paul?

Of course this picture is the before the non USCG approved arrestors!!!!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 64X55
Date Posted: November-26-2008 at 2:08pm
I wonder if they did (do) get much more out of a downdraft. Remember we talked about just how many cfm each single barrel Carter side draft was. Somewhere, to my surprise (I think you talked to someone) we discovered that they were (with the two of them together) pretty decent cfm (never really got a final exact number as I recall). But, the 312 info., not as much applicable to the marine applications, indicates that you could get over 300hp out of the 312's with a Paxton Supercharger, but that was more for Ford's cars and trucks of the era. The Marine Interceptor 312 seems to consistently say 215 hp. I wonder how much (if any) more horses can be gained with a 4 barrel on the 312. Not that I'm planning on that. I know, as we've discussed, the 2 single barrel Carters keep the hatch height low and (at least with the Dunphy X-55's) to add a 4 barrel necessitates some raised scoop on the box or a higher box. Just wonder about the potential increased hp. Kind of figure it might do a little, wouldn't it (somewhere between the 215hp (with 2 single barrels) and 300hp+ with the Paxton)?

Ooo! Pete; did you add that pic after you posted? I didn't see it the first time I read your last reply. Nice.

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Inboards Rule!


Posted By: 75 stang
Date Posted: November-26-2008 at 2:15pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by 75 stang 75 stang wrote:

my guess is it would be cheaper to send them to the nearest CC dealer for a rebuild than buy a rebuilt set.

Im not so sure about that- I know that I sure wouldnt necessarily be looking to a CC dealer to rebuild my vintage carburetor! If its not a job you want to tackle yourself, stick with a good rebuilder with good references (dealer or otherwise), as I suspect most dealer service depts lack a tech who has ever had one of these carbs apart.


I have to argee that a dealer would not be my first choice ether. I too will have to say that it would be unusual to find a mechanic at one who has ever had one apart - maybe never even seen a YH!!! Getting a reference from a dealer for a carb rebuilder isn't a bad idea if all else fails. If MWCC has problems with their YH's, they maybe sending them out too!



The only reason I mentioned Midwest was that Bruce took me outback to a Private building on the site owned by a fellow named Ken that was somehow involved there. I was looking at the Mustang 17 in his shop and noticed the wood boat being rebuilt next to it with the side drafts. Bruce mentioned their mechanic was reworking the engine and carbs for Kens boat. while I agree that most wrenches have not seen one of these in years, Im pretty sure someone there has recently.

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Take your work seriously, not yourself.
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Posted By: 64X55
Date Posted: November-26-2008 at 2:22pm
Maybe I could fit one under my current "big and ugly" hatch!
(these were pics from back in June '06. Looks a lot different now).


Na, I'm just kidding anyway, but it looks like even that hatch was still low. And it's getting re-done anyhow...
Hey Phatsat67, there's your windshield again!

Wonder how close "under the box these were?
I think they're actually lower than even the valve covers!


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Inboards Rule!


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-26-2008 at 2:47pm
Pete, What's yours red line at? The Ford auto web sites I've checked out say 4600 rpm.
Also, what does your idle at and what do you set the timing at? The manual says 10 BTDC at 2600 rpm. Car web site says 6 BTDC at 450 rpm. Where's the timing mark?

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-26-2008 at 3:17pm
Bruce,
The 6's and 8's show the same in my manual. My 312 red lines right about where the book shows which is 4200 - 4300.

Go according the marine specs on the timing. The marine version may be cammed for more torque (many marines were) and that may be the difference in the timing spec.

It's been so long since I did a tune up (you know the 28 year old points that are still going strong!!!) that I had a hard time remembering about the timing!! The marks are on the flywheel on the 312. There is a "inspection" cover on the top of the bellhousing that needs to be removed. Look for one on your 6.

Edit: I forgot your flywheel forward. Did you paint over the mark on the flywheel? There should be a grove cut in it someplace.

Edit again: I just looked at you picture of the painted engine. Looks like there's a pointer sticking out of the shroud around the flywheel right about on the top. Is it?

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-26-2008 at 7:51pm
Originally posted by 75 stang 75 stang wrote:

The only reason I mentioned Midwest was that Bruce took me outback to a Private building on the site owned by a fellow named Ken that was somehow involved there. I was looking at the Mustang 17 in his shop and noticed the wood boat being rebuilt next to it with the side drafts. Bruce mentioned their mechanic was reworking the engine and carbs for Kens boat. while I agree that most wrenches have not seen one of these in years, Im pretty sure someone there has recently.

I suspect that the Ken in question is Ken Meloon. I believe he has a mid 70's Stang and a wooden CC thats being restored.

MWCC would be one of the few dealers that I would go to with questions about the older boats- not all dealers are that well versed on the vintage CC's.

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Posted By: 64X55
Date Posted: November-26-2008 at 9:57pm
Here's sort of an answer to my own question about a four barrel on the 312.

This link is to a site discussing a double four barrel on a 312, but the first sentence in the short article talks about adding a 4 bbl to a 312 and getting 235hp.
http://www.ctci.org/membership/Gilsgarage/19568VOption.htm

Intersting.



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Inboards Rule!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-27-2008 at 9:54am
Thanks Craig. Yes it is interesting but it won't fit under the dog house!! I'm going to see if I can find the CFM on the YH again!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-27-2008 at 10:30am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Bruce,
The 6's and 8's show the same in my manual. My 312 red lines right about where the book shows which is 4200 - 4300.

Go according the marine specs on the timing. The marine version may be cammed for more torque (many marines were) and that may be the difference in the timing spec.

It's been so long since I did a tune up (you know the 28 year old points that are still going strong!!!) that I had a hard time remembering about the timing!! The marks are on the flywheel on the 312. There is a "inspection" cover on the top of the bellhousing that needs to be removed. Look for one on your 6.

Edit: I forgot your flywheel forward. Did you paint over the mark on the flywheel? There should be a grove cut in it someplace.

Edit again: I just looked at you picture of the painted engine. Looks like there's a pointer sticking out of the shroud around the flywheel right about on the top. Is it?


Pete, I'll have to check out the 6 later this weekend. I'm not too concerned right now about that one because PO said the engine ran good and the points, even the gap look fine.

The 312 on the other hand has been rebuilt and only run for a few minutes. It has to be timed. I don't want to do the initial timing at 2600 rpm. There is an inspection plate on the bell housing, but it looks like the coil was put in a poor place.


I haven't found any rpm specs in that manual.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-27-2008 at 10:44am
Bruce,
The RPM's aren't in the spec listings but rater in the HP/RPM graphs.

Yes,the coil does need to be removed and bolted temporailly off to the side.

I forgot, the idle! I seem to remember the 312 is about 500 but also, the old SW tachs aren't the greatest!! Don't know how accurate they are at the bottom end and at WOT there's lots of needle bounce.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-27-2008 at 10:55am
I don't seem to have that page. What's the red line on the 6? An auto site said 4400, but that seems high.

So it sounds like my coil is in a ok place, where it's supposed to be?

We don't have a tach. SW makes a nice repro that will match the gauges that I'm planning on buying. I'll use a tach and dwell when I set the initial timing. Manual says idle should be 700 rpm. I suppose if I set at 6 BTDC at 700 I ought to be close enough. I then think I will use the break in schedule in the later Interceptor manual which is the babying method. Does that sound right to you?



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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-27-2008 at 12:29pm
Bruce,
The HP/RPM graph tops out right around 4200 to 4300 on both the 6 and the 312.

Interesting that the smaller displacement Y blocks show higher red lines (the less the cubes, the higher the red line). Probably shorter strokes allowing safer top ends without lots of balancing of the rotating assembly.

The coil is in it's proper place using the same mounting bolts as the cover.

I think the SW gauges would have been the "Big Logo" series in the Classic. Plenty old ones and repros around.

If the babying method of breaking in the engine includes short bursts of high RPM's then yes but I'd also like to hear from other members on the subject.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 64X55
Date Posted: November-27-2008 at 1:52pm
Pete - Hope you can find it (the Carter's cfm). It seemed to me like we were thinking that the 2 together would equal around 500 cfm?
On the break-in (you guys were discussing), again, "it seems to me" like when I put the PCM 351 in my Cobalt, they recommended running it for a minimum of twenty minutes at no more that (I think) 2500 RPM's (or thereabouts) and then little spurts maybe of a bit more and a bit less, but not Wide Open at first (forget how long -- I know this is a great help ins't it)?
It's been 9 years ago now and I've only ever done an install once, but that's what I seem to remember.
What I remember "most clearly" about "break in day" was that there was this stupid Bayliner pulling along side me looking like he wanted to race a little and I couldn't (wouldn't) go any faster until it was broke in! I figured my boat was quite a bit faster (does mid 50's and with older engine did high 50's), but I couldn't punch the throttle yet at that point!
Later found out that that particular Bayliner was actually pretty quick. It would run in the mid fifties, which I don't think most Bayliners could do in the approx. 1999 time period. I think it had a 350 Chevy.

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Inboards Rule!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-27-2008 at 3:53pm
Originally posted by 64X55 64X55 wrote:

Pete - Hope you can find it (the Carter's cfm). It seemed to me like we were thinking that the 2 together would equal around 500 cfm?


Craig,
You've always had a knack for doing searches on line. I did 3 different key word searches and about 10 pages each and came up with nothing!! Maybe the old carbs didn't have CFM ratings!!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: stang72
Date Posted: November-28-2008 at 2:10am
Riley,

Any chance you have a pic of the engine from the front?
I changed the intake to accept a Holley and need to see how it's plumbed.

Thanks

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stang



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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-28-2008 at 9:30am
Gary, This is all I've got for now. I'll be going up to my camp this weekend and can take some others if you need them.

I'd like to see some pictures of your Classic. Ours was owned by a guy you had been talking to on line a few years ago, (Hammer).



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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-28-2008 at 10:29am
Pete's going to hammer you.

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-28-2008 at 11:14am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

Pete's going to hammer you.


I already took care of the "keep it original" working him over!! It was even before Bruce picked up the Classic! Bruce is going to need the upholstered Frizbie on top of the dog house like Reids.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-28-2008 at 2:17pm
Pete, Reid's is too subtle, we're going with one of these.


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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-28-2008 at 2:38pm
Bruce, You'd better get two of them. The other one you can stick over my eyes when I come to visit. I'll probably need some Imodium AD too!!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-28-2008 at 2:44pm
I saw an old ratty Atom Skier with one of those a few years ago in Freeport, ME.

I like Reid's. It looks like it's off of an old TBird.

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Posted By: 64X55
Date Posted: November-28-2008 at 3:31pm
Funny Stuff!

Pete - I'll look - see there's the issue - you said you looked at 3 word searches. Ya gotta look at a zillion or so; then you'll find stuff!

Let me check....

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Inboards Rule!


Posted By: 64X55
Date Posted: November-28-2008 at 6:10pm


Okay, here we go – This reply will be really messy and disconnected (sorry) but has some good info. on the YH carbs and a possible CFM number we were discussing above:

Carb Doctor web site's email = doc@carburetor.ca <doc@carburetor.ca>
I e-mailed this guy with the question: How many CFM for the Carter YH?
Hopefully he'll pass some info. back my way.
Carb Doc Phone # : 780-968-6622

Nice diagram with lots of data from a 1952 to 1955 Nash car (Ambassador) that used YH carbs at this site:
http://oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Carbs/Carter/Nash/pages/p_%2040_jpg.htm

Old Corvette web site – 6 cyl. Used the YH Carter carb:
http://www.carburetor.ca/pdf_manuals/Carter/YHmanuals1.pdf
or:
http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Carter/YH/index.htm
(same thing – "non pdf" – i.e. just click on a page to view)

Corvairs used them too...

Here's a site (Black Hawk Engineering) that seems to indicate that the YH's original CFM was 128 (CFM) if I'm reading correctly:   
http://www.blackhawkengr.com/
Quote from site:
"The throttle body has a 1.83" bore to fit the F flow (180 HP) turbocharger inlet bore. The Performance Trends "Engine Analyzer" simulation software predicts that the throttle body will flow 256 CFM versus 128 CFM for the original "180 HP" YH carburetor. With the boost limited to 12 PSI for longevity, Engine Analyzer predicts 193 HP net versus the 148 net HP of the stock "180 HP" system. The EFI system is able to produce better fuel economy despite generating more power. I will also manufacture smaller throttle bodies for the B-flow (150 HP) turbochargers."

If 128CFM is correct, I guess that means "two" would do only 256CFM?

Another link to the same info. (same site). It's a fuel injection throttle body for turbosharged Corvairs that also used the YH carbs (Wow! Pretty interesting stuff!):   
http://www.blackhawkengr.com/Black%20Hawk%20Engineering%20-%20Bolt%20On%20Turbo%20Fuel%20Injection.htm

Ooo! Another site that says 128CFM --- "4 each Carter YH (sidedraft) carbs from a 6-cylinder Corvette bolt to the triangular flanges.......I think that Turbo Corvairs and some Nashes also used these carbs. I wonder how well it ran with that setup? You'd think it would be better with a divider in the runners...?The carbs I think are 128 CFM each X 4 = 512 CFM. You are right, sounds kind of undercarbed for a 331. At 4800 RPM it should use 542 CFM (if my math is right)."
Site Link:http://caddy500.com/index.php?topic=336.25;wap2

And here's a cool site that shows what CFM you should have based on the c.i. vs the max RPM's expected (recommended):
http://www.buicks.net/shop/reference/carb_cfm.htm
This stie also has a nifty "enter your RPM's and C.I.'s and get your needed CFM for a carb" chart!
Or an equation to do it by hand.

And another similar site: http://slitherclothing.wordpress.com/2007/06/29/how-to-calculate-correct-carb-size/

In each case, it looks like, if you use the 312 Interceptor as an example, it yields a CFM a good bit higher than what 128CFM x 2 would be (256CFM), assuming the two sites referenced above are right about only 128 CFM for the Carter YH side drafts.

Man, this is almost as much fun as playing with Propeller Calculators, but I'm whipped from staring at the computer screen to long! I think my eye sockets are gonna need some PB Blaster soon if I don't stop now!


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Inboards Rule!


Posted By: 75 stang
Date Posted: December-02-2008 at 7:19pm
I may even still have a 4 bbl intake and edelbrock carb lying around here somewhere. We put a 3-2 setup on Dads 56 over the summer...

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Take your work seriously, not yourself.
http://s133.photobucket.com/albums/q70/Bigblockbandit/Lake%20and%20boats/ - Boat Pics


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: December-07-2008 at 11:38am
Originally posted by 63CCSN 63CCSN wrote:

Hi all!

I'm looking for rebuilt Carter Sidedraft Carbs for my 312 Interceptor. Anyone know of a source for them? I believe they are YH's.

Thanks!


http://www.oldmarineengine.com/discus/messages/3432/119530.html - Try Here

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Posted By: 67nautique312
Date Posted: December-08-2008 at 9:34am
Yo Pete,

I just caught up with this one also........

Man you just had to use me as an example didn't you?

I promise that the next one will be original!

paul,





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1963 Classic (handed down to my daughter)
67 Riviera
68 barracuda
1971 Ski Nautique Promo
86 Silver Nautique
1995 Ski Nautique


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: July-06-2019 at 9:53pm
OLD THREAD REVIVAL:

I surrender. I've rebuilt my YH carbs twice, and sent them out to a recommended rebuild service, all to no avail. Still have fuel flowing out the aft carb choke horn.
Has anyone found someone who can actually get these carbs to work properly without being a fire hazard?
I don't want to rile the Brainard overlord or originality, but if I must... thx

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1994 Ski Nautique "Riot"
1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-07-2019 at 12:45am
Brian,
I bought my X55 in 1976 and I've never had the fuel problem. I rebuilt my YH's in 2009 and again never had the problem. The trick is NOT following the float level setting per the instructions. The instructions are written for automotive when the carbs are level. Lower the aft level. The forward may need to be raised.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: juniorwoody
Date Posted: July-07-2019 at 9:40am
Forget originality and get rid of the carters is the most efficient way of eliminating the problem. Want to satisfy the original mongers you can simply block off the rear carb port on the manifold and run with one. If I read your past post on researching them correctly the cfm remains similar. I did read a post in the past there one of the Meloons had done this. Personally I have had my share of boat fires from these carbs and am done with them for life. Want some I have three complete assemblies. Also have a couple AMC 327 engines for sale.

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The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-07-2019 at 10:30am
Brian,
I encourage you to at least try to set the float levels before abandoning or modifying the YH set up. It's always hard to hear about a fire like Jack's especially since he's one of us. Fires do happen and few of them are caused by the YH carbs. There are way more great running YH setups running out there than ones that dump fuel. As mentioned, float levels are they key to the YH's performing as designed. I remember running into Ken Meloon one year discussing the problem and was surprised that he didn't fully understand the cause of dumping fuel out the aft YH. He did mention blocking/disabling the aft YH but I also seem to remember he had ether the 272 or 292 so performance may not have been as big an issue as on a 312.

Give the float level adjustment a try. It's the most efficient way.

BTW, my 312 is running great and no fuel out the aft YH.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: July-07-2019 at 5:53pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


The trick is NOT following the float level setting per the instructions. The instructions are written for automotive when the carbs are level. Lower the aft level. The forward may need to be raised.



Yes, I have the Interceptor manual with the 'marine' float settings which were carefully followed....

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1994 Ski Nautique "Riot"
1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-07-2019 at 6:58pm


Originally posted by MourningWood MourningWood wrote:

OLD THREAD REVIVAL:

I surrender. I've rebuilt my YH carbs twice, and sent them out to a recommended rebuild service, all to no avail. Still have fuel flowing out the aft carb choke horn.
Has anyone found someone who can actually get these carbs to work properly without being a fire hazard?
I don't want to rile the Brainard overlord or originality, but if I must... thx


Originally posted by MourningWood MourningWood wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


The trick is NOT following the float level setting per the instructions. The instructions are written for automotive when the carbs are level. Lower the aft level. The forward may need to be raised.



Yes, I have the Interceptor manual with the 'marine' float settings which were carefully followed....


I guess this makes Pete the "Overlord of the leakers"


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-07-2019 at 7:47pm
Originally posted by MourningWood MourningWood wrote:


Yes, I have the Interceptor manual with the 'marine' float settings which were carefully followed....

Brian,
Again, all I can suggest is to try lowering the aft float level.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: July-08-2019 at 11:55pm
Ok....I'll have another lash.
If I understand the Interceptor manual ( I'm 66 but read at a 5th grade level) it says front float 9/16" aft float 7/16". Just triple-checking....thx.

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1994 Ski Nautique "Riot"
1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-09-2019 at 7:04am
Brian,
Yes, that's what the manual says. IF I remember I started with those dimensions when I rebuilt and then did lowered the aft slightly more say 3/8.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Extratx
Date Posted: July-11-2019 at 3:29pm
I just rebuilt the YH carbs on my X-55 (see new post in off topic about my boat) last week, and used the interceptor manual posted on this site to set the float levels. Got my rebuild kits from Mike's Carbs. I was having the leaking issue, which is now gone after correctly setting the floats and replacing all the parts. One thing I noticed is there is a brass line from the rear spark arrestor bottom to the front of the throttle plate, providing vacuum where fuel would pool if it leaks out of the carb. There is always a little fuel spray back from carbs, and given the arrestor design, without a vacuum to remove the fuel, it will overflow after time. Check to see your boat still has this little brass line, and that it is free flowing. See picture with red circle. It is possible this has been blocked off sometime in the past.



Posted By: Extratx
Date Posted: July-11-2019 at 3:42pm
One more thing. When you have your floats out, dip them in fairly hot water, say around 120 degrees F, and look carefully for any tiny bubbles. If you see bubbles, your float has a hole. The hot water expands the air in the float and will push out some air if it isn't sealed. If you have bubbles, locate the source, and solder that guy back closed after making sure there isn't any fuel or water in the float.


Posted By: Extratx
Date Posted: July-11-2019 at 7:01pm
One more one more thing. On one of my two carbs, getting the needle seat screwed all the way in and tight against the sealing ring was a real bear. It felt tight, but it wasn't. If this is the case, the needle will stop the flow through the seat, but fuel will continue to flow around the seat. I used a tiny watch repair screwdriver to reach in and wiggle that sealing ring to make sure the needle seat had actually seated. Took a bit of in and out and lube to get the needle seat seated. You can also measure the seat distance compared to your other carb to make sure its screwed all the way in.


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: July-12-2019 at 2:32pm
Thanks Extratx for the reply.
I know these carb can be made to work....I just haven't found/corrected the leak source.
I do have the tiny vacuum tube installed and working. The floats themselves and the 'seating' of the needle/seat is something requiring more attention.

Thanks for the tip(s)...will report when rebuilt yet again. I'm also going to pressure test the float bowl for crack/porosity, and anything else anyone can think of...

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1994 Ski Nautique "Riot"
1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: July-12-2019 at 2:35pm
One more thing...I revived this old thread to find a reliable carb rebuilder, it has morphed into a "engine maintenance" or "off-topic" thread, so with apologies to the moderators, maybe it should be moved...don't mean to clutter the "General Discussion" area

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1994 Ski Nautique "Riot"
1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: July-12-2019 at 2:40pm
Ha


Posted By: Extratx
Date Posted: July-13-2019 at 1:55pm
Give it one more try. Can you pinpoint where the fuel is coming from? Is it just coming out the throat or leaking out the bottom? Fortunately the float bowl work can all be done with the carbs still attached to the intake, and the intake on the boat, so yanking the float tops only takes 10 minutes or so.

I'd love to hear that you get it sealed up and running right. My recommendation is never send carbs off by themselves. If you have carbs rebuilt, they should be by a mechanic on the boat, so that they can be tested and corrected before you get them back. Sending them to someone else, they have no way of testing the work was correct.

I'll make you a deal. Give it your best effort, and if they still leak, send me your intake with carbs attached, and two new rebuild kits. I will rebuild them and put your stack on my boat to test them to make sure they are correct, Gratis. I've already received tons of help from you guys which is invaluable to me.

BTW I've been a motorcycle mechanic for 20 years, so I've rebuilt hundreds of carbs and chased all sorts of issues with them.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-13-2019 at 2:58pm
Just want to warn you that Pete has just recently become known as the "Overlord of the Leakers", the leakers being the YH carburetors, but if you keep up this kind of good stuff you'll inherit his Overlord status and he'll be relegated to being a mere lord.


Posted By: Extratx
Date Posted: July-13-2019 at 3:23pm
Honestly, it's just a good way for me to tell the wife and kids they aren't going out on the boat with me. Testing carbs, not a good family day.

My wife said the boat is "plenty fast" as is, and she doesn't want to go any faster. Yet another reason why I want a new prop. Sorry babe, testing top speed again today, maybe next time!!!!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-13-2019 at 6:20pm
Jon,
I'm sure glad there are many out there including yourself and myself that can handle a YH carb. rebuild one and not have any problems with leakage.

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-13-2019 at 6:28pm
Originally posted by Extratx Extratx wrote:

One more one more thing. On one of my two carbs, getting the needle seat screwed all the way in and tight against the sealing ring was a real bear. It felt tight, but it wasn't. If this is the case, the needle will stop the flow through the seat, but fuel will continue to flow around the seat. I used a tiny watch repair screwdriver to reach in and wiggle that sealing ring to make sure the needle seat had actually seated. Took a bit of in and out and lube to get the needle seat seated. You can also measure the seat distance compared to your other carb to make sure its screwed all the way in.


Well after reading all this Pete I wonder if Jon has a version of Quinners tool box

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 6:41pm
Originally posted by Extratx Extratx wrote:


I'll make you a deal. Give it your best effort, and if they still leak, send me your intake with carbs attached, and two new rebuild kits. I will rebuild them and put your stack on my boat to test them to make sure they are correct, Gratis. I've already received tons of help from you guys which is invaluable to me.


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1994 Ski Nautique "Riot"
1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 6:57pm
WOWZERS!!!
That is a most helpful, and generous offer, one that I can't possibly pass up. I'll take my last shot this week, if unsuccessful, will box up and ship.
Meantime, I've quickly made up this test rig....elec pump/press reg/guage,Maybe I'll find something by bench-testing...

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1994 Ski Nautique "Riot"
1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 7:02pm
No clue why my attachment rotate

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1994 Ski Nautique "Riot"
1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: July-16-2019 at 3:12am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Jon,
I'm sure glad there are many out there including yourself and myself that can handle a YH carb. rebuild one and not have any problems with leakage.


I think I felt some sand in my face

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1994 Ski Nautique "Riot"
1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: July-16-2019 at 3:13am
Extratx, I've sent you a Private message. Thx

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1994 Ski Nautique "Riot"
1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: July-18-2019 at 4:11pm
Intake and carbs shipped out today. Stay 'tuned'...

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1994 Ski Nautique "Riot"
1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: October-01-2019 at 10:38pm
The Dunphy is BACK!!!! Success...so far. Jon Francis (aka Extratx) knows YH carbs better then I.
I finally got everything back together, after throughly bench testing each carb, then the entire intake/carbs unit. Even though Jon was unable to install/run the setup on his boat, he felt confident with the results.
The boat cracked to life with the first flick of the key. Not a drip or drop so far.
Turns out there was a myriad of issues, perhaps most notably a 'rotted' carb body which was letting fuel past the main jet, and horribly adjusted accelerator pumps.
I did double-check the float levels after 5 days with UPS. All good.
So, this weekend will be the first 'road test' at the annual ACBS Delta Cruise in the Sac River Delta. If everything works, I'll 'hard-line' the remote fuel pressure regulator into place. It will be successful if it does not involve a paddle and/or a long rope.
Stay tuned, and thanks again Jon Francis. His willingness to help is above and beyond.


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1994 Ski Nautique "Riot"
1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-01-2019 at 11:21pm


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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: October-04-2019 at 3:28pm
Here we go, all bridled, saddled, and ready to go. Fingers crossed!!

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1994 Ski Nautique "Riot"
1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-04-2019 at 3:42pm
Brian,
Where did you get those hull side emblems? I thought yours were missing?

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-04-2019 at 4:29pm
Looks like a decal to me Pete

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: October-04-2019 at 4:38pm
yes, decals by previous owner....not bad, but not authentic. Thanks for the loan, Pete!!!

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1994 Ski Nautique "Riot"
1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-04-2019 at 4:40pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Looks like a decal to me Pete

The reason I asked is I removed my tags and mailed them to Brian. He's having them reproduced by 3D printing. Funny, I had to mail him twice. I removed the tags from one side and after Brian got them he asked me for the other sides "flag". I forgot that the flags are left and right handed!!   

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-04-2019 at 11:58pm
Brian,
Gary's eyes must be better than mine! Yes, the decals look pretty good.

Now, regarding the "Interceptor" tag between the Dunphy and the flag, I have never seen that before and am wondering if he simply added it. All I've ever seen is a short piece of 1/2" half oval rub rail there. I'll measure mine for length tomorrow. I'm heading down to the boat house to set up the aeration system to prevent the water from turning hard.

Love you X especially without a hole in the top of the dog house!

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54 Atom

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: October-07-2019 at 1:31pm
Interesting about the "Interceptor" emblem/decal......or lack of it. I can't find a definitive photo to determine right/wrong.

Well, back from the best Dunphy outing in 5 years. Boat started and ran great...., after a bit of fiddling of course.

Went for a "pre-event" test run, and about 2K rpm the engine surged noticeably. I had installed an in-line fuel pressure regulator, and had set it very low, @ 3.5 lbs. No fuel was leaking out the carbs as before, but the small fuel volume wouldn't support more than an idle. I raised pressure by a lb. Ran much better, but still thin over 3k rpm. Raised it again for a total of 5 lbs, and ran great thereafter, Had a bit of hard starting Sunday, borrowed a fresh battery and good to go.

This old boat is always a surprise. It is fast! Swinging a stock 12x15 prop, at sea level, I got 52 mph at 4400 rpm, pretty much maxed out. (gps). Maybe most impressive....the wake, or lack of wake and spray. I had a '89 Supra Comp ts6m whose wake and spray characteristics were not surpassed by Nautique until the tsc-era boats. This 1964 wooden Dunphy is every bit as low, roostetail-less, and minimal side spray. Hope to get it back out once more this year and will get some wake videos.

Thanks again to all of you who have offered help, advice, and assistance.

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1994 Ski Nautique "Riot"
1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-07-2019 at 1:40pm
Originally posted by MourningWood MourningWood wrote:

Maybe most impressive....the wake, or lack of wake and spray. I had a '89 Supra Comp ts6m whose wake and spray characteristics were not surpassed by Nautique until the tsc-era boats. This 1964 wooden Dunphy is every bit as low, roostetail-less, and minimal side spray. Hope to get it back out once more this year and will get some wake videos.

The lack of a wake has impressed many through the years and still does. I believe with the steps in the hull, there's no defined wake. It's more like 4 small wakes and yes, very low.

Great to hear the outing was successful. remove the pressure regulator and give it another try.

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64 X55 Dunphy

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<



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