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leaf spring

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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12452
Printed Date: April-27-2024 at 10:57am


Topic: leaf spring
Posted By: k.o.
Subject: leaf spring
Date Posted: November-29-2008 at 9:53pm
hey guys wel for the ones that know from ethanol thread i rebuilt my carb and everything to hit the beach well were not goin anywere our leafspring broke from rust.

it only has one spring left and the first time we pull it of the sidewalk it will break completly so we wan't to replace both of them.
my brother found a website that sells spring but i have absoloutly no idea wich one we should purchase and i really need it fast since my patciance is running out for use the boat.
if none will work can someone post one that will work?

1986 sn original trailer

http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/c-33-trailer-leaf-springs.aspx - leaf spring site

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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-29-2008 at 10:09pm
Ko,
You do not what one of the "slipper" springs. Both end of your springs have "eyes"

Measure the center eye to center eye distance on the existing springs. Compare that to the sizes your brother found on the web site. The old ones will be slightly longer that what you find listed due to them sagging over the years.

Your 86 weighs 2400lbs dry. Add some weight for the trailer and the 1800 or 1750 (each) will be fine.

You may want to replace the shackles and bolts too. Of course it's not like your traveling great distances at interstate speeds ether!!!

http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-205-single-axle-hanger-kit-for-double-eye-springs.aspx - hanger kit

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64 X55 Dunphy

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<


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 3:29am
CC trailers use oddball axles and springs. I doubt you'll find any online trailer store who carries what you need. Your best bet is to find someone local who can build you what you need- or call Woody at SECC and pray he has something in stock!

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Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 3:37am
yup if i replace i'll replace it completly..
your right pete we don't travel long nor fast... what can happen if i remove the springs?? will i get in trouble due to weight?? will the axle break or something like that?

not great news tim i doubt there is someone here to make it for us if i do find one i better had bought a new trailer ( dramatic) but you could imagine what they charge.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 11:09am
Ko,
If no luck with OEM springs, buy two springs from the site you found as close the the original length as possible. You need the hanger kit anyway for the shackles and bolts but it also comes with the hanger brackets. Have a local welder cut the original brackets off the trailer and weld on the new ones at the proper center distance (same as unsprung spring length) I did when I converted to a monoleaf.



Wow, This picture sure brings out the fact that I'm going to have to repaint soon!!!

Yes you need springs. You need them to cushion all the bumps so the axle doesn't see lots of extra forces from inertia - the weight of the boat and trailer plus the kinetic energy from the downward movement of this weight. (if you drop a 100lb. weight on the ground, the ground see's more than 100lbs)

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<


Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 2:05pm
wel i guess i should break out my wallet for some new spings thnx pete i'll measure any probs i'll ask..
gonna put the carb back on so she can atleast start haha

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 2:49pm
Ko,
It's been several years since I bought the mono leaf spring set. I got them from Northern Tool but they no longer carry them. Get your brother searching again because in your case, the mono's may be a good idea. They won't trap salt water between the leaves. I know you rinse down the trailer but doubt you get the salt water out from deep down between the spring leaves. It may be the reason they failed.

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64 X55 Dunphy

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Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 3:53pm
that'r right pete we wash down but i know 100% that we don't get it good enough. we just measured it is 33.5 inch and 6 springs. but if a find a mono i would get that.
but can we use the trailer like it is? i'll snap a pic and you can tell me if i can or can't. we only trailer maybe 1 mile and drive about 30 km/h so not fast and not long.

we have some family down here from netherlands so we really need it to be done haha they've been waiting a year to get a ride in it

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Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 4:23pm
wel no it's not usable i just went to take the pics and saw that the wheel was hitting the fender mount i don't know if it has something to do with the spring being broken or somoe other pprobs but the boat isn't going anywere..
i'll begin cheking to find OEM parts. maybe more expensive but faster.

thnx for the help as always guys

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Posted By: nautique frk
Date Posted: November-30-2008 at 6:58pm
I had a set of springs made off of my original ones from a place in Michigan it was about 120 bucks a side and they were a perfect match of the original rusted out ones.


Posted By: woodyelc
Date Posted: December-04-2008 at 6:31pm
wAS THAT A PICTURE OF THE AXLE FROM THE TRAILER NEEDING THE SPRINGS? IF SO IT IS NOT A CORRECT CRAFT TRAILER AS THEY USED A SOLID SQUARE BAR FOR THERE AXLE. ALSO HAD 6 LEAFS IN THERE SPRINGS. THEY ARE STILL AVAILABLE FROM WOODY AT SECC

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woodyelc


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-04-2008 at 7:25pm
Originally posted by k.o. k.o. wrote:

our leafspring broke from rust.

it only has one spring left and the first time we pull it of the sidewalk it will break completly so we wan't to replace both of them.

1986 sn original trailer

http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/c-33-trailer-leaf-springs.aspx - leaf spring site


Woody,
You'll see that KO started the thread and in his first post identified the trailer.

The picture you are referring to is mine. It's a MC copy of a CC! Don't worry, it's not used for a CC but rather my X55!! I posted it as a suggestion to using a mono leaf rater than the 6 leaf CC spring.

If you read more of the post, you'll see that KO's located in Aruba so the trailer is in and out of the ocean. The thought is that even though the boat and trailer is washed down, the multi-leaf springs are trapping salt water way down inside them causing premature failure.

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64 X55 Dunphy

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<


Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: December-04-2008 at 7:32pm
I replaced the leaf springs on boat trailers several times. Most recently I bought the springs from NAPA. I have ordered them through trailer supply stores in the past.

The measurement is from eye to eye. However, if your springs are worn down, then the measurement is not correct. That is because in worn out springs the rear shackle is angled toward the back of the boat.

The good springs the shackles face forward. Just get springs that have similar leaf configurations and measure from the front eye to a point where the shackle should be facing forward.

I have never paid more than $100 for a pair of springs.

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Bill
http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks
www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project


Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 12:07am
wel i emailed SECC and nautiques of orlando still no email back. if anyone knows the prices from any of those store let me know

right now the tire is pressed against the fendermount. i think i'll start searching in the junkyard to see if i'm lucky to find something to work with. i went to one of our boat supply shops i ran from prices and they weren't even close match they were over 120$ so really not going that way.

i will be lifting the boat very soon of the trailer and put it on brick scared to do that but have no other choice. all repair must be done in front of my house since the trailer can't move anymore.

i was actually cheking a few hours ago to see if there is an ghetto fix but realised better do it right so i won't damage the axle
the mono leaf would be ideal for our waters but for now i will work with anything that will do the job.

woody i think your the woddy of secc. So can you please sent me info about the springs you have available???
kenrick_oduber@hotmail.com

thnx guys i will uload photo when i lift the boat of the trailer

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Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 8:47am
Leaf springs are not specialty items. Understand that you are not in the continental United States, but...I would suppose that you could take your busted springs to a mechanic and he can get replacement springs, build new ones, or repair the ones you have now using leafs from other vehicles and/or trailers.

If not, try searching for trailer supply stores:

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/items.asp?Cc=A%2DSPRING&Bc= - trailer parts depot

I bought from these folks before. You can get all of the replacement parts you need.


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Bill
http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks
www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project


Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 10:57am
repairing is no option since it broke completly. we have a guy that does all the repairs on watersport rentals. today or tomorow i will look in junkyards too take one of a pickup or somthing like that.

i know spring should be easy but evrything for these boat here are specialty the don't carry no spare parts for ski boats here

hope to get everything going before the visit of a fellow member or else we have to ride in a ski brendella

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 11:16am
Originally posted by SkiBum SkiBum wrote:

Leaf springs are not specialty items.


Bill, They are when the CC trailer has been made by CC! The 34.5" - 35" eye to eye is the kicker! It's why I mentioned the new shackle brackets being welded on as a option.

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Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 11:28am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by SkiBum SkiBum wrote:

Leaf springs are not specialty items.


Bill, They are when the CC trailer has been made by CC! The 34.5" - 35" eye to eye is the kicker! It's why I mentioned the new shackle brackets being welded on as a option.


that's why i emailed seccd en nautiques of orlando first but heard nothing back..
we will go your way pete just get short ones that hold 1500 each and make extension for them

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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 1:45pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by SkiBum SkiBum wrote:

Leaf springs are not specialty items.


Bill, They are when the CC trailer has been made by CC! The 34.5" - 35" eye to eye is the kicker! It's why I mentioned the new shackle brackets being welded on as a option.

Exactly. Good luck finding those specialty CC springs elsewhere! I brought my #2 to a trailer supply/repair place, and they didnt know what the heck they were looking at- they had to have them custom made.

KO, your best bet is to pick up the phone and call Woody. 407-851-1965

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Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 1:57pm
i'll call after lunch to se what he can do my father is on his way right now to the mechanic to see if i should order a spring or he will make on to fit it.

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Posted By: woodyelc
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 4:41pm
Sorry i have not got back to you on the springs. they are 30 inch 6 leaf I can get them your cost would be $81.00 each plus shipping. Let me know if would like to order. Thanks Woody

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woodyelc


Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 7:06pm
Originally posted by woodyelc woodyelc wrote:

Sorry i have not got back to you on the springs. they are 30 inch 6 leaf I can get them your cost would be $81.00 each plus shipping. Let me know if would like to order. Thanks Woody


woody thnx i'll let you know i'll chek local first to see if i can find something used. if not i'll ground ship it to port everglades and let my gf shipping company bring it..
thnx for the info. you'll hear from me soon

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Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: December-09-2008 at 3:46pm
so guys we spoke to the mechanic yesterday he knows trailers very good since he works for every beachbums trailer that needs to be repaired.
He told us to eliminate the leafsprings since we don't travel neither far or with high speed. he said he would reinforce the axle and make some extra brackets to hold the axle to the trailer. if all is goes well we should be back in the water saterday just in time for ccf member visit.

my girlfrieds father will raise the boat with a forklift and leave it on the forklift since the job would only take 3 hours. will this be any stress to the hull?? he is planing to use a long fork from behind to lift it of the trailer. any cons of doing it this way??

thnx guys

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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-09-2008 at 3:53pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Yes you need springs. You need them to cushion all the bumps so the axle doesn't see lots of extra forces from inertia - the weight of the boat and trailer plus the kinetic energy from the downward movement of this weight. (if you drop a 100lb. weight on the ground, the ground see's more than 100lbs)


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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2008 at 3:55pm
Originally posted by k.o. k.o. wrote:



my girlfrieds father will raise the boat with a forklift and leave it on the forklift since the job would only take 3 hours. will this be any stress to the hull?? he is planing to use a long fork from behind to lift it of the trailer. any cons of doing it this way??

thnx guys


Not a problem as long as he uses long forks. I'd say at least 8 to 10 feet. Space the fork about the same distance as the stringer width. BTW, rack stored boats are lifted this way all the time.

So, not springs on the trailer! Drive slow k.o.!!

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Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: December-09-2008 at 4:06pm
the guy said the tires would obsorb all the bumps that we will encounter buy the truth is i'm afraid of this shortcut. i'll let it go for now and when i have some extra cash i'll order or let my gf father buy them for me from woody.
don't worry pete we drive slow. can't go over 40 km/h since we don't travel on highway. the distance is less then 3 miles to travel so we'll se how it turns out.

it is long fork but i think it isn't long enough to be in the comfort zone. either way they will lift it eitehr with forklift or a container sideloader

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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-09-2008 at 4:12pm
3 miles at 25mph, yikes! How good are these roads? I hope theyre smooth... Id be scared to drive up the driveway with no springs on my trailer! Sounds like a recipe for a cracked hull to me.

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Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: December-09-2008 at 4:18pm
wel tim the roads vary depanding on wich route we take it's smooth. but yes Aruba's roads are bumpy.
i think we'll have to think about this very good. realy don't want a cracked hull. i now there is a ski tique with no springs and the do trabvel more then 5 miles and they use highway with no problem.
that's how we got the idea for elimnatig the springs anda fter the mechanic said it would be ok we figured nothing will happen.
will low tire presurre help??

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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: December-09-2008 at 4:44pm
good luck with your shortcut. might want to start saving up for a new axle now.

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Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: December-09-2008 at 7:16pm
Originally posted by k.o. k.o. wrote:


will low tire presurre help??


KO,
This is the last thing you want to do. Lowering the pressure will make the tires heat up excessively which in turn will heat the wheels and bearings. To answer your next question, yes this will happen at lower speeds in just a couple miles. This will cause premature tire or bearing failure. How soon it will fail depends on the age and condition of your tires and bearings. Not a very good option.

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When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.



Eddie


Posted By: beachdude24
Date Posted: December-13-2008 at 9:43pm
we fixed the trailer today and everything when good we didn't put the boat back on the trailer yet that will happen tomorow morning here are some pictures.

Before





lifting process








after




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Living the Salt Life...Life is better in Aruba


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-13-2008 at 10:30pm
k.o. and 24,
We all hope that this "fix" will work out for you. None of us have been very excited about the idea.

BTW, what's wrong with your bow lifting eye? Is it rusted out too?

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<


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: December-13-2008 at 10:36pm
Pete, you beat me to it!

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Ben Franklin


Posted By: beachdude24
Date Posted: December-13-2008 at 10:36pm
no the lifting eye is not rusted the lifting ring has smal crack in the gellcoat it came so from the states so we didnt risk it to pull the boat up from the lifting ring

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Living the Salt Life...Life is better in Aruba


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-13-2008 at 11:20pm
Originally posted by beachdude24 beachdude24 wrote:

no the lifting eye is not rusted the lifting ring has smal crack in the gellcoat it came so from the states so we didnt risk it to pull the boat up from the lifting ring


A gel crack in the deck next to the lifting eye??? Do you understand that the lifting eye is attached to the keel/stem and not the deck? By lifting from the bow eye you are certainly taking a risk!

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Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: December-14-2008 at 3:04am
pete we do know how the lifting ring is atteched. i told him doit from the ring he said he would rather pull it from the eye since he doesn't trust the ring. he should now what's he's doing since it isn't the first time he done it this way neither the first boat he lifted and beside once it's on the forklift it's his responsiblilty.
tomorow we'll finish painting thes suport with anti rust paint and hope for the best.

i'm not to happy about the step we've taken. i just can't order any springs at the moment so as soon as i have it i'll put them on. or as HW stated above a new axle

altough i think everyone was against our desicion and plan thnx for looking and giving us advice even if we didn't do the best thing.
thnx
kenrick

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Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: December-14-2008 at 9:12am
The lifting ring is actually attached to the the bow eye on the 2001 by a piece of stainless threaded rod through bolted to a some stainless steel plate that is glassed into the bottom of the hull. The bow eye then bolts through this plate from below. I know this as I spent a couple of hours under the bow of my 89 today. Lifting by bow eye would be better as it would not have distorted the rub rail like the strap through the bow eye has.

I'm a bit like Pete not so sure of the trailer mod but it will possibly be ok over very short distance with a much reduced speed I would tend to half that 40klm/hr.

I hope you ended up doing both sides because if one spring is that bad the other wont be far behind.

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Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: December-14-2008 at 11:17am
lewy both side has been removed. the other one was ready to break also.
the pictures didn't upload well i have pics of both side and how the other side was but i don't now why it didn't upload

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Posted By: h20loo
Date Posted: December-14-2008 at 5:41pm
KO - that looks OK for a storage trailer and hopefully you don't run over any potholes in the yard. That 9th picture looks like you have a couple Canadians down there judging by the lack of tan on those legs!!! I get more color than that snow skiing-How does someone in Aruba miss the sun?

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70 Mustang project


Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: December-15-2008 at 12:51am
haha thats my "father in law" haha you now after almost 2years with his daughter it's the 1st time i saw him in shorts. haha i've invited him to go skiing with us so he can get a tan.

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Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: May-08-2017 at 1:06pm
Hey guys back after loooong time

For those wondering of this fix haha it lasted for nearly 10 years

It only took 2 bearing change in that period.
It would of lasted more but the damn trailer rusted and broke near the hitch

So now we made a new trailer but running leaf spring again haha


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Posted By: CCATW
Date Posted: June-28-2017 at 1:12pm
I ran across this post searching for leaf springs... pretty amazing "fix"!

I'm new to this forum and not sure this is appropriate under this post, but I'm looking for information on replacement leaf springs for the model / year trailer depicted in this post. So here goes...

I recently acquired mid 80's CC trailer (w/ diamond metal side boards like this post) for my 2001 SN (1989). Among many other things, the springs are badly rusted and I'm a bit fearful of failure. I'm finding out that these springs are no longer available but I'm trying to determine what size they were and if I want to order a custom set (likely $$$, ugh) or another option. The length I'm pretty sure is 30" based on the brackets with a load rating of 1750/axle (based on bearing/axle measurements). But I'm unsure of the width. Does anyone recall if the springs on this trailer were 1 3/4" inch wide or 2"? The bracket inside widths are a little over 2" wide implying a 2" spring.   The current springs on this trailer is 1 3/4" and the brackets are bent slightly where the shackle bolts pulled them in... there were some spacers added but didn't fill the gaps all the way. I doubt this was a CC install, but likely done later down the road although the remaining paint remnants appear original like the trailer.

Another lower cost option I'm considering is replacing with an available 30" x 1 3/4" 2500lb capacity (per axle) spring. But I will likely need to replace the brackets to conform to 1 3/4" width or find some type of spacer that would suffice... I'm concerned with the angled brackets. Also the current shackle bolts are 1/2" with the the threads riding on one side of the bracket (shank too short). The new springs all seems to have 9/16" shackle bolts. The 2500 lb capacity also raises a few issues of increased load on the tires and bearings but certainly can't be any worse than welding the axle to the trailer.

Any advice / info greatly appreciated.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-28-2017 at 1:31pm
30" x 1.75" springs are correct. The 2500lb versions are appropriate for a 2001.

Cc used "hat" bushings. Eastern marine sells some, they are 1/2" ID and need to be drilled out to 9/16" but are otherwise a perfect fit. They replace the sleeve bushings that come in the springs. Or, you can buy some 9/16" x ~1.25" OD bushings and cut them into ~1/8" slices to use them as face bushings between the springs and hangers. I have done both.


Posted By: CCATW
Date Posted: June-28-2017 at 4:30pm
Thanks, just the advice I was looking for! I found nylon hat bushing on east marine site that seems to fit your description... is this the one you're referring to? Nylon right?

Details
Inside Diameter: 1/2 in.
Outside Diameter: .875 in. x Top Diam.= 1-1/16"
Length: 9/16 in.
Finish: Nylon

There's also this kit but the 3" bolt is going to run a tad short based on my shackle measurements... the cc bolt is 3 1/2".

The Loadrite Equalizer Bolt and Busing kit contains: (1) plated shackle bolt 9/16" x3 ", (1) 9/16"-18 lock nut and (2) nylon hat style equalizer bushings.

Again... appreciate the help! This along with full hardware replacement, frame welding to strengthen all the rusted areas, and sandblast and prime and paint is adding up to nearly a new trailer... but this trailer will be an original for what that's worth. It's becoming a learning experience for sure.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-28-2017 at 5:09pm
Yes, nylon. They're the only leaf spring hat bushings I've seen anyone carry.

You're correct that you need 3.5" shackle bolts (3" won't reach). Etrailer and eastern marine carry them. I usually replace the shackles rather than trying to reuse the old ones as they are very inexpensive.

If you're replacing spring u-bolts, Stengel bros is the only place that I've seen that carries what you need... but their prices are pretty reasonable.


Posted By: CCATW
Date Posted: June-29-2017 at 1:00pm
I found the U bolts on Stengel and also located some on other sites that are galvanized (need to confirm strength) that might also work. Re the recommendation to replace the shackles, are you referring to the shackle bolts or the shackle mounts that'd have to be welded? I'm little unsure of terminology to use on this stuff. Also, would galvanized option again be best way to go on the bolts?

Finally (I hope), what's your recommendations on boring all the holes to 9/16" vs getting 1/2" bushings to go into the new springs? All my hardware right now is 1/2" of course but guessing 9/16" is stronger although maybe little more labor way to go. I'd also have to figure out the upper aft bushing replacement.

Thanks again...


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-29-2017 at 1:17pm
I am surprised you have 1/2" hardware. What year trailer? I would replace the bolts while you are in there, I have had one break (no fun at all). I am not sure that 1/2" x 3.5" shackle bolts are available anywhere. I always step up to 9/16" hardware.

When I say shackle, I mean the shackle links used at the rear end of the spring assembly to connect to the hangers (often available for under $1 each).

Galvanized is overkill IMO... unless you're dunking in salt I wouldn't bother.


Posted By: CCATW
Date Posted: June-29-2017 at 5:53pm
Ok, the links, got it. I found some 1/2" shackle bolts on one of the websites along with the conversion bushings... but I'm thinking 9/16" as you say can't hurt. Getting new links w/ 9/16" holes will also save me 8 holes to bore out leaving me only 4 to worry with. But I'll have to dig a little deeper into the bushing replacement for the aft upper fixed shackle mount that the links hook to. As for galvanized, I'm not planning any salt water... trailers stored in the garage anyway, shouldn't be any issues on my watch for some time. Once again, appreciate the help!


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-29-2017 at 6:43pm
The hat bushings used throughout the suspension shouldninstall directly in the upper rear hanger as well. Just have to drill out the bushings to 9/16".

Post a link to the 1/2" x 3.5" shackle bolts if you don't mind.


Posted By: CCATW
Date Posted: June-30-2017 at 12:32pm
Here's more than you likely asked for but should help to fill in a few details in case anyone has an interest...

Re the shackle bolts in general, in addition to various sizes, I've noted variations in thread length, whether they are flutted or not, material/finish, and grade. Seems to me it'd be best if the shank rides in the shackle bolt holes but some of these appear to have shorter shanks from the pictures. My current bolts (1/2" no grade marks I can see) ride on the threads on one end and apparently haven't failed for nearly 30 years... so maybe not an issue. Higher strength also seems a good idea... the links below are higher strength bolts (grade 5 or 8 or 593C stainless).

Sturdy Built trailer parts carries the 1/2" x 3.5" shackle bolts. The web site calls them leaf spring mounting bolts.

Here’s 1/2”x3.5” mounting bolt grade 5 zinc plated.
http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Leaf-Spring-Mounting-Bolt-12-inch-x-3-12-inch-Zinc-Plated_p_431.html

Here's 1/2"x3.5" stainless 593c   
http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Leaf-Spring-Mounting-Bolt-12-inch-x-3-12-inch-Stainless-Steel_p_430.html

I also found a set of 1/2" x 3/5" bolts at Stengelbros grade 8 (these are automotive application I think, hence higher grade, likely overkill):

http://www.stengelbros.net/334-176-HEN-30970-1-BOLT-ASSEMBLY-12-x-3-12-Bolt-with-nut-and-washers_p_1013.html

As for the 9/16" variety, Agri Supply carries longer shanked flutted bolts but they don't indicate the strength, I'd guess grade 5.

http://www.agrisupply.com/leaf-spring-shackle-bolts/p/28987/

I mentioned bushings that would "convert" the 9/16" springs to 1/2", Sturdy Built carries theses but not sure of the OD required for the leaf springs.

http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Trailer-Leaf-Spring-Bushing-12-inch-ID-1116-inch-OD-_p_896.html



Posted By: CCATW
Date Posted: July-01-2017 at 9:01pm
Need some advice on axle alignment. I'm noting the tires are toed outward toward the front. I realized this when checking the aft bushings and links noting that the springs seem out of alignment a small amount. The springs are angled inward going aft such that the aft links are about 1/4" to 1/2" inside the aft shackle mounts (the links angle inward as they go down from the mount to the spring). The axle is not visibly bent or damaged but holding a straight edge is appears slightly bowed. I can probably live with this but looking for any advice or if anyone else has noted something of this nature.


Posted By: fgroce
Date Posted: July-01-2017 at 9:22pm
If your tires are toed out in the front it will wear out the inside edge of the tires. Depending on how far you tow it may be best to just let it be. Have you already replaced the seals and repacked the bearings on the axle? No play in bearings.   We had a trailer once that was toed out a little and wore out the inside tread, but we only went about 20 miles round trip and the tires would age out before they wore out.

-------------
FGroce
88 Ski Nautique
For 28 years
Now 2002 Ski Nautique


Posted By: CCATW
Date Posted: July-02-2017 at 10:54am
Thanks... I repacked the bearings and they looked fine, no play. But I haven't driven the trailer enough to tell if the wear will be an issue or not... but then again I don't plan to put much mileage on the trailer either. My larger concern was the shackle misalignment but apparently the trailer's been this way for some time before I got it, so it'll likely be fine and not worth worrying over.


Posted By: CCATW
Date Posted: July-04-2017 at 1:42pm
Re my shackle links, I'm running into some problems finding the right size. The only 4" on center links I can find out of 1/4" plate have 1/2" holes. They are $9 / plate, a bit pricey but if I used the 1/2" shackle bolts would save me having to ream out the old links to 9/16". That'd lower the cost but not yet certain how much effort the reaming will take. But since the front 1/2" hole mounts are elongated (almost to 9/16"), I'm planning to ream these vs welding on new mounts. I'm not yet certain if the shackle bolt hole should be reamed to 19/32" or 39"/64" yet or if it really matters much w/ the fluted bolts.

I can however find 3 1/8" on center links but even with the new springs, I'm concerned it may change up the setup too much.

Any advice on the above appreciated.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-04-2017 at 2:24pm
You should be ok with the slightly shorter links. I know I went a bit shorter when I did my 88. I got the longest 9/16" links that eastern/etrailer sold.


Posted By: CCATW
Date Posted: July-04-2017 at 7:16pm
Thanks... that's good to know.


Posted By: CCATW
Date Posted: July-08-2017 at 7:34pm
I'm going be reaming my 1/2" bushings and my forward shackle mounts to 9/16". Should I ream these to 9/16" or slightly larger to say 19/32"? The shackle bolts are fluted for tight fit but I'm not sure how tight the 19/16" bolt will be if the holes are reamed to an exact 9/16". Maybe overthinking all this but was trying to determine which reamer bit size to select.


Posted By: CCATW
Date Posted: August-14-2017 at 7:37pm
Follow-up on install. Per advice, I moved all the shackle bolts/holes up to 9/16" and it worked out very well. I found a 9/16" Drillco Nitro reamer bit on Amazon, just ran it in/out with slight wobble action so the bolts went in smoothly and not too tight. The 19/32" reamer would have created a bit too much play.   The 2500lb capacity 30" springs came from Agri Supply with slightly higher rise. (Couldn't find 30" 1750 springs.) I used the 1/2" ID Hat bushing from eastern marine reamed to 9/16", also worked out good. (The .825" inner OD fit into the springs with slight play and tightly into the trailer shackle mount. But overall they worked out well.) I ended up using 3-1/2" l x 9'/16" d hole shackle links from e-trailer (vs 4") and that coupled with the stiffer slightly higher rise springs worked well. The 1/2"d x 2-1/16" x 3-7/8" square grade 5 axle Ubolts came from Strengel Brothers. The axle mounting plate holes were a little narrower than the U bolts so I had to elongate the holes slightly, but they eventually went in well and matched nicely with the 2"x3" hole spaced lower mounting plate from eTrailer. I'm pleased with the outcome and really appreciate all the advice and help! Now to complete the rest of the trailer refurb...


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: August-14-2017 at 11:17pm
Greet job! If you have s chance, could you post a pic or two? Thinking about doing the same. Thanks

-------------
Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: CCATW
Date Posted: August-15-2017 at 3:47pm
Here's a few pictures to give an idea. You'll probably note there's a bit more to this project left to go than the shackles :) FYI, all the old metal step plates were removed due to extensive rust damage along the main beams. They are being replaced by angle iron and composite panels / carpet.

Before w/ old nuts/washers removed

Upper plate w/ holes elongated, cleaned and painted

Hat bushing in the upper aft mount.

Rear shot of install

Ubolts thru upper mount and lower plate

Top view


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: August-15-2017 at 9:23pm
Thank you! Appreciate it. looks great!

-------------
Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: February-02-2018 at 1:20am
Curious......with the new springs, did you purchase LRD tires to match the spring rating?? Looking for LRD tires but having a hard time finding LRD rims matching the tire rating. Personally, I would like to match all components. Thanks

-------------
Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: CCATW
Date Posted: February-02-2018 at 6:32pm
I can understand wanting a little more wiggle room, but I don't know enough to advise. The tire folks led me to believe I'd be fine w/ LR C tire, rated at 1760lb each. I recall them mentioning it was the side loads that's the most concern which wasn't a big factor in my case. Keep in mind I don't do much trailering, only 2 trips / year at less than one mile each way so my exposure is low. Also, my axle of course is only rated at 3500lb as I recall which puts boat and trailer near the top end of all these ratings. Good luck w your decision.

FYI, the tire fender clearance worked out well w/ the boat loaded, one of my concerns. Unfortunately, my prop clearance on the prop guard didn't, it's barely touching. My original trailer had a double set of boards which I understood I didn't need... but now I may have to go back and add a 2X4 spacer under the bunks. I'd be curious to know if anyone else has run into this issue.

FYI here's a picture of the completed trailer w/ boat loaded... I haven't installed the carpeted step panels as of yet.       


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: February-02-2018 at 6:50pm
Thanks Ralph for sharing as it makes complete sense. Your trailer and stands looks great. Good work!

-------------
Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-02-2018 at 10:49pm
Originally posted by CCATW CCATW wrote:

Also, my axle of course is only rated at 3500lb

What


Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 10:20am
Originally posted by OldSchoolBlue84 OldSchoolBlue84 wrote:

Looking for LRD tires but having a hard time finding LRD rims matching the tire rating. Personally, I would like to match all components. Thanks


Bought a new set of Goodyear Marathons from Wally World last summer along with a new set of rims from a site that TRBenj suggested. The OEM rims were rusting and beat up a bit. Shouldn't have a issue finding both.

-------------
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"


Posted By: Blamey
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 11:57am
Originally posted by Morfoot Morfoot wrote:

Originally posted by OldSchoolBlue84 OldSchoolBlue84 wrote:

Looking for LRD tires but having a hard time finding LRD rims matching the tire rating. Personally, I would like to match all components. Thanks


Bought a new set of Goodyear Marathons from Wally World last summer along with a new set of rims from a site that TRBenj suggested. The OEM rims were rusting and beat up a bit. Shouldn't have a issue finding both.


What was the site. I was trying to find these.

-------------
96 Super Sport
Previously: 95 Sport Nautique, 1980 Ski Supreme


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 12:43pm
Originally posted by Blamey Blamey wrote:

Originally posted by Morfoot Morfoot wrote:

Originally posted by OldSchoolBlue84 OldSchoolBlue84 wrote:

Looking for LRD tires but having a hard time finding LRD rims matching the tire rating. Personally, I would like to match all components. Thanks


Bought a new set of Goodyear Marathons from Wally World last summer along with a new set of rims from a site that TRBenj suggested. The OEM rims were rusting and beat up a bit. Shouldn't have a issue finding both.


What was the site. I was trying to find these.

For a ‘88?


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 1:12pm
Hey Tim, I am looking for options for my 84 other then the painted white rims I found etrailer. Thanks

https://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-Wheels/Kenda/AM32161.html

-------------
Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 1:50pm
Erring a little high on the tire load range isn’t a terrible idea, but I don’t see much point in going excessively high on any of the “hard” parts. 5-lug axles and bearings will be 3500lb capacity, 6-lug will be 5200/6000lb (depending on which outer bearing is used). Do not get too caught up on load range letters, they are helpful to compare within a given size (say, 14” tires) but the actual weight capacity will vary within a size to some extent and will vary greatly between sizes. A load range D 12” tire may have a 1200 lb capacity whereas a load range D 15” tire may have a 2500 lb capacity.

An ‘84 #3 trailer should have been a 5-lug (3500lb) with 14” wheels. They went to 6-lug 15” (5200lb) in late 85 or 86. Can you confirm what you have, Kostas?


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 2:18pm
I have the 5 lug on my trailer. Will be putting on the 5k springs and was looking to purchase a set of LRD close to the 2,040# capacity to get me over the 3,500# to have some additional insurance. I have been getting some inner tire wear which I believe it’s due to the original springs age or trailering with full tank of gas and gear. The allighment, tire presssure as well as bearings have been checked and verified. I am probably overthinking it. Thanks guys

-------------
Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 2:26pm
Did you check the spindles when you replaced bearings? Worn springs shouldn’t cause uneven tire wear, but a bent spindle, loose bearing/hub or an overloaded axle (that is deflecting) would.   Check hangers for straightness and replace all your bushings when you replace the springs. I’d replace the bolts as well.


One option for chrome 14” wheels:

http://www.trailer-wheels.com/14x6-inch-Chrome-Spoke-Steel-Trailer-Wheel-5-Lug-1900-lb-Max-Load_p_578.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.trailer-wheels.com/14x6-inch-Chrome-Spoke-Steel-Trailer-Wheel-5-Lug-1900-lb-Max-Load_p_578.html




Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 2:33pm
It’s been around 4-5 years when I changed the bearings but never payed to much attention to the spindles. Tire wear started maybe around 2 years ago. The plan is to change all components including springs, bushings and bolts as you guys mentioned in this thread. It may not be a bad idea to change the spindles while upgrading everything else. Thanks again for your help!

-------------
Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 3:03pm
Spindles are part of the axle and not easily replaced (no one here in CT does it)... could mean full axle replacement if you find issues.


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 3:18pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Spindles are part of the axle and not easily replaced (no one here in CT does it)... could mean full axle replacement if you find issues.




-------------
Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: bwinn
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 4:35pm
Originally posted by OldSchoolBlue84 OldSchoolBlue84 wrote:

I have the 5 lug on my trailer. Will be putting on the 5k springs and was looking to purchase a set of LRD close to the 2,040# capacity to get me over the 3,500# to have some additional insurance. I have been getting some inner tire wear which I believe it’s due to the original springs age or trailering with full tank of gas and gear. The allighment, tire presssure as well as bearings have been checked and verified. I am probably overthinking it. Thanks guys
spindle nut not being snug enough would cause negative camber and wear issues as you describe. As would a flexing axle due to overloading? I don't believe the springs would make an impact. How does the trailer go down the road?   Maybe time for 6 lug axle swap?


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 6:08pm
Originally posted by OldSchoolBlue84 OldSchoolBlue84 wrote:

I have the 5 lug on my trailer. Will be putting on the 5k springs and was looking to purchase a set of LRD close to the 2,040# capacity to get me over the 3,500# to have some additional insurance.


If it were me I would stay away from a 5200 lb axle.   I just put a new Dexter 3500# axle under my new trailer that I am building. It has 1 1/16" outer bearings and 1 3/8 inner bearings. Plenty stout.   The problem with "over springing" a trailer is that your load is not enough to make the spring actually work and you end up transferring all of the road humps and bumps to the boat and have no cushioning effect. Sort of where the "log wagon" term comes about. I doubt that your present axle has been flexing. Old springs tend to wear out and are no longer capable of the load they were made for.   JMO   Duane

-------------
Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 6:19pm
Living near the "RV capital" of the world helps out on getting trailer parts.   We can get a complete ready to hang new (3500) axle setup for $135.00 That includes everything but the tires and wheels. Springs included.   Axles (3500) with electric brakes are under $200.00. I talked to the Dexter rep and he says that the electric setup WILL work in a boat trailer setup. Everything is sealed.
I opted for a surge brake setup only because I wanted disc brakes. Added that to my new CC trailer and just installed the same on my Ranger bass boat trailer.

ps. go to the Johnsonsurplussupply site check out the trailer parts. White Pigeon, Michigan

-------------
Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 6:23pm
Originally posted by OldSchoolBlue84 OldSchoolBlue84 wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Spindles are part of the axle and not easily replaced (no one here in CT does it)... could mean full axle replacement if you find issues.



Kostas,
Regarding spindle replacement, give a couple trailer shops and welding shops a call before you condemn the axle. Unlike CT. in the Midwest people do know how to weld metal!

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 6:28pm
Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:

Originally posted by OldSchoolBlue84 OldSchoolBlue84 wrote:

I have the 5 lug on my trailer. Will be putting on the 5k springs and was looking to purchase a set of LRD close to the 2,040# capacity to get me over the 3,500# to have some additional insurance.

The problem with "over springing" a trailer is that your load is not enough to make the spring actually work and you end up transferring all of the road humps and bumps to the boat and have no cushioning effect. Sort of where the "log wagon" term comes about.

Duane,
I completely agree on "over springing". I have actually installed 2500lb springs on a 3500lb axle to match the actual load. Major difference from riding like a rock to a baby carriage!!

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 6:33pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

in the Midwest people do know how to weld metal!


Seem to remember running across one or two.

-------------
Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 6:37pm
Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

in the Midwest people do know how to weld metal!


Seem to remember running across one or two.



-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 7:07pm
The 5k springs should work well on a 2001- with the delux trailer you’re near 3500lbs before you add gas, cooler or ski gear. I’ve used them on a 80’s #4 carrying a similar load and they ride very well. Leaf count and thickness is on par with the factory set up. They are too much spring for the lighter 2-gen SN and standard #3, however (IMHO).

Maybe it has to do with labor rates or implied liability, but none of the trailer shops would touch my bent spindle a few years ago... and they were clearly set up for more serious work than that. New axle they all said. While not the same solid stuff that came on the older trailers, the hollow dexter axle kits are very reasonably priced.

If you do end up with a new axle I would absolutely upgrade to the 5200lb version as the aforementioned 2001 weight is line on line with the older 3500lb set up and is surely why cc started overbuilding them soon after. The peace of mind that comes with the extra capacity (and ability to load the boat with equipment) sure is nice for longer hauls. I went through this on the BFN a few years ago.


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 7:25pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

The 5k springs should work well on a 2001- with the delux trailer you’re near 3500lbs before you add gas, cooler or ski gear.
If you do end up with a new axle I would absolutely upgrade to the 5200lb version as the aforementioned 2001 weight is line on line with the older 3500lb set up and is surely why cc started overbuilding them soon after. The peace of mind that comes with the extra capacity (and ability to load the boat with equipment) sure is nice for longer hauls. I went through this on the BFN a few years ago.


Good point Tim. I am not up on the weights as you are. Matching spring weight to trailer /boat load is important

-------------
Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 10:26pm
Wow lots of good information to absorb! Appertiate the comments.

Duane, Johnson’s surplus is awesome. That’s were I purchased the trailer tires I have now. Can not complain for mediocre tires that lasted 5 years, even longer if the inner did not wear out . Is that were you purchased your new axle?

-------------
Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 10:44pm
Originally posted by bwinn bwinn wrote:

spindle nut not being snug enough would cause negative camber and wear issues as you describe. As would a flexing axle due to overloading? I don't believe the springs would make an impact. How does the trailer go down the road?   Maybe time for 6 lug axle swap?[/QUOTE]

It seems to trailer great. I do get some movement left to right above 60. I have more investigating to do

-------------
Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-03-2018 at 11:43pm
Even nonexistent bushings don’t cause wandering in my experience (but they’ll make a racket and look scary). Check tongue weight #1 if it wags at speed.


Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: February-04-2018 at 1:10pm
Originally posted by Blamey Blamey wrote:

Originally posted by Morfoot Morfoot wrote:

Bought a new set of Goodyear Marathons from Wally World last summer along with a new set of rims from a site that TRBenj suggested. The OEM rims were rusting and beat up a bit. Shouldn't have a issue finding both.


What was the site. I was trying to find these.


Here is the where I ended up getting the rims from:

http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/15x6-Chrome-Spoke-Steel-Trailer-Wheel-6-on-550-1526278402B_p_947.html#.Wncuf2wo7IU" rel="nofollow - Rims for the 87' SN Trailer

-------------
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: March-15-2018 at 6:40pm
Well....all in and just a waiting game also for the UPS to deliver the mechanic to install Thanks everyone for providing links and sites to get everything.

https://ibb.co/cW59Nx" rel="nofollow">

-------------
Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: June-19-2018 at 11:35pm
Finally getting to install everything. So far so good but I do have one question. How tight to you tighten the shackle bolts? Snug or enough to allow some movement between the links and spring? Appreciate it. Thanks

-------------
Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: CCATW
Date Posted: June-19-2018 at 11:58pm
Mine are snug but not tight to allow movement without too much wear on the bushings. But others likely have a greater experience basis for this question than me with just one install :).


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: June-20-2018 at 12:01am
The later, snug enough for some movement. Should be new lock nuts in the kit. Grease everything cause it does not look like the bolts have zerk fitting in them. I prefer bronze bushings but nylon is ok too. Duane

-------------
Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: June-20-2018 at 12:09am
Thanks guys, been reviewing the other side which has some play so I figured I should be asking. As for the locking nuts, they only provided regular nuts. Even from factory there is none, I may go ahead and add some lock washers to be safe. Fun stuff! Thanks for the quick response!

https://ibb.co/cEROAJ" rel="nofollow">

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Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: June-20-2018 at 12:32am
Looks like you have room to double nut the bolts. Locks nuts would be my choice though. You can always "red neck" it by taking a chisel and smacking the threads to keep the nuts from coming off. McMaster carr will have the new nuts here in a day

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: June-20-2018 at 12:46am
Don’t let a Pete see that All good, went back and reviewed my invoice and I actually did order the locking nuts. Well back to work on the other side Thanks for your help!

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Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-20-2018 at 6:14am
Kostas,
Some shackles are threaded on one side so it's just like double nutting. Take a close look to see if yours's are.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-20-2018 at 8:39am
I bet the nuts are locking if they came with the shackle bolts. If they look a little oval, they’re locking.

What are you doing for the bushings? Did you get the hats and drill them out?


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-20-2018 at 9:15am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

I bet the nuts are locking if they came with the shackle bolts. If they look a little oval, they’re locking.

What are you doing for the bushings? Did you get the hats and drill them out?


I bet what Tim bets too . Did they thread on a lot harder than you expected?


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-20-2018 at 9:36am
Here's some nut info in the link

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distorted_thread_locknut" rel="nofollow - link


Posted By: OldSchoolBlue84
Date Posted: June-20-2018 at 10:23am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

I bet the nuts are locking if they came with the shackle bolts. If they look a little oval, they’re locking.

What are you doing for the bushings? Did you get the hats and drill them out


Hey Tim, yes I did end up ordering the locking nuts with the shackle bolts. I also did purchase the hat bushings and bored them out. All fit well, just was unsure how snug there are suppose to be. The shackle bolts do have a spline to them as well. Thanks again!

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Kostas
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6700&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1984 Ski Nautique 2001



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