Trailer Parts Sources
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12688
Printed Date: May-28-2024 at 5:48am
Topic: Trailer Parts Sources
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Subject: Trailer Parts Sources
Date Posted: January-16-2009 at 9:54am
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Is anyone familiar with this outfit? http://shop.easternmarine.com/ - Eastern Marine
I remember Champion Trailer being recommended, but they didn't have the actuator I need. http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=4427&categoryID=150 - Actuator I'm also getting the http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=4436&categoryID=151 - brake assemblies and maybe the bearings unless the machine shop has a better price when I get the drums turned. Will the shop need to press in the inner bearings anyway? As with my other projects, this is my first trailer brake job so feel free to point out any pitfalls I may encouter! The good Doc has already helped me with the bearing buddies, but I hate to keep bugging him!  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Replies:
Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: January-16-2009 at 11:01am
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Thanks Greg
Good post been looking for parts,you guys are way ahead of us in the UK. ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: critter
Date Posted: January-16-2009 at 12:30pm
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Greg,
Have you checked this site. http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com - Trailer Parts I converted my Shoreland'r from surge to electric and they had the best prices. ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique 1966 Barracuda |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-16-2009 at 12:38pm
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Greg,
Lots of trailer parts stores on line! I've had very good luck with this one: http://www.etrailer.com/ - etrailer.com ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-16-2009 at 12:50pm
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Thanks guys. Looks like I found a good one though unless I'm missing a diff in products.
http://accessories.etrailer.com/search?p=R&srid=S11%2d6&lbc=etrailer&w=actuator&url=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2eetrailer%2ecom%2fp%2d84132%2ehtm&rk=9&uid=17206974&sid=2&ts=v2&rsc=NWRlzPL9R1Vs-mIX&method=and&isort=score&view=grid - Same actuator? The machine shop has my bearings and water seals. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: skicat
Date Posted: January-16-2009 at 1:03pm
Greg, I used them for parts on my Skier trailer & ordered the bearings for my BFN trailer from them. Pretty good service so far! ------------- Greg http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2427&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985" rel="nofollow - 86 BFN |
BuffaloBFN wrote:Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-16-2009 at 1:08pm
Thanks Greg, I was starting to think their prices were too good.  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-17-2009 at 2:14am
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Greg, I used Eastern for parts for my #2.Had parts unique to the #2 that I could not find anywhere.I even bought tires from them and they are fine,but sometimes if I think about it too much they bother me - They have no markings as to where they come from.Shipping was fast also,they seemed to have everything I needed in stock. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-18-2009 at 3:11pm
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Thanks Gary. That's almost 2 votes?!!? LOL
I went with them for their price on the attwood actuator. It looks to be an exact match for what I had. I also got the left and right full assemblies for what looks to be a good price. Now for the dumb question-how important is the condition of the races? My drums were handed to me with a shrug after having them turned. He said they were in pretty good shape and that most don't change them. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: January-18-2009 at 3:42pm
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Greg, if you have any doubt about the races just knock them out with a drift and tap in the new ones, make sure they're seated all the way to the shoulder. If there's any pitting replace them otherwise most people don't bother.
I also recommend driving the trailer for a few miles before taking the trip to FL and checking tp make sure you've got the spindle nut snugged up enough. I always seem to get another 1/4 turn or so after doing this even with preloading them. Jack the trailer off the ground and try to wiggle the wheel, if any slop I tighten up a bit. ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-18-2009 at 5:48pm
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Thanks Alan, good point on everything seating in. You said 'if there's any pitting', and these have a lot; so these hubs will get new races...even found water behind one. They are nasty enough that I'm surprised they weren't pointed out.
I don't have a drift but used something similar I think. What's the proper tool to put them back with w/o buying a $100 kit? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: January-18-2009 at 5:58pm
Don't know about the proper "tool" but a nice block of hardwood will do. I have a favorite stick of beefwood that I use for lots of things in the garage. ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-18-2009 at 6:16pm
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LOLOL Alan...thought you were yanking my chain on beefwood!
Beefwood=bloodwood? (still laughing) Got it covered!  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: January-18-2009 at 7:28pm
That's the stuff, thinks it's also called ironwood. It's harder than steel, I have a 2x2x12" piece that i've had in my tool box for a decade. ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-19-2009 at 1:56am
I see that your going to change them Greg,but as I understand it your not supposed to mix bearings and races anyway.One thing to remember it's easier to do it in your garage now than on the side of the road later. Some guy's also carry a extra complete hub assembly. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-19-2009 at 2:21pm
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you should actually take it and have the races installed properly, piece of wood isn't going to get it, IMO, most parts stores have the tools on hand and you can rent it or borrow it on the spot. You need to make sure the the race is seated properly in the hub, both of them on each hub. It's a simple tool that is cut to match up with the od and taper of the race so that it is driven in squarely otherwise you have major issue down the road. bearings are not something to take litely and when install wrong fail quickly and usually take other parts out with them when it fails. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-19-2009 at 2:24pm
they are all standardized so as long as you have the correct bearing and race and they are in good shape it makes no difference on brand or age, if they are pitted or when you roll the bearing around on the race with your fingers if it feels rough they are junk and need to replace and usually if the bearings bad so is the race. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: January-19-2009 at 2:41pm
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Per Joel's bearing write up on PN I also use an old race with a block of wood on top of that to drive the new one in. Seems to work and Alan even trusted one of them down to Alabama to get that Hurricane. ------------- |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: January-19-2009 at 3:20pm
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Whatever, I did say to make sure they seat all the way down to the shoulder, whether you use a block of wood or have someone else do it is up to you. Trailer bearings ain't brain surgery and anyone who's owns a boat should learn how to do them themselves.
------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-19-2009 at 4:18pm
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The hardest part is getting them started. If you can do that, then keep tapping evenly around in a circle - they will go in straight. They are pretty hard steel & you aren't going to distort them. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-19-2009 at 4:43pm
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hammer and chisle class I guess. you have to drive on the smalller lip and there really isn't much to drive on, and if you use a punch your going to screw up the race. No it's not rocket science but they still need installed correctly and if you really think they will not go in cocked or won't roll a buhr if they are driven in at an anlge guess again they will and then they will never be seated correctly It's not a oil seal and can not be driven in the same way, working it around in a circle because you will worp the race doing it that way. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: jjgag60
Date Posted: January-19-2009 at 7:40pm
| I have found the best tool to seat the race, is what we all have in our tool boxes. Look for the proper size socket that will fit just inside. You can start with using your old race to center the new one and then switch to the socket. You can use the same socket or the next bigger size to set your oil seal. Works great everytime. |
Posted By: jimsport93
Date Posted: January-19-2009 at 8:53pm
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Greg,
Was not sure if you got the parts you needed for your trailer. If not, you may try Country Boy Trailers in Cumming, Ga. (877 258 2325). They seam to have a great inventory of trailer parts and the expertise to go with it. Jimsport 93 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2798 - 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-19-2009 at 9:06pm
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I'm all squared away except for something I was going to put over on Pete's 'Murphy's Law' thread. I have 1 race that has the right part # on it, but it rattles around like a BB in a box car in its bore.
It's not the bore as I tried more than 1... ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-19-2009 at 9:34pm
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'79 - Yes you are correct. I am a shadetree guy. But do use a brass punch & carefully watch what I am doing. Have been doing hub races this way for 35 years, haven't had to change the same one twice yet. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-20-2009 at 11:36am
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I was always taught to use the right tools for the job, but then not everyone learns from a ASE Master Technician either or has to worry about the customer coming back because you half assed it and they broke down.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=74338&group_ID=1598&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog - I've always used the proper equipement for the last 30 years with no customer break downs ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-20-2009 at 11:54am
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I saw that same kit somewhere else for $99. I'll get 1 someday though all is well for now. The 1 hub I have back together is very smooth with no slop. The loose race was mis-boxed, and I should have the brake parts tomorrow or the next day.
I should have a nice tow to FL! Thanks for the help guys...these were a little different than my old go-cart bearings. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-20-2009 at 12:33pm
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a race should never be loose/spin if it does it's the wrong size or the bore is junk ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-20-2009 at 1:35pm
It was the wrong race in the right box...all good. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-24-2009 at 7:17pm
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Thanks again for everyone's help. I have new bearings and races in 4 hubs, 2 with newly turned drums. I also have the new actuator and brake assemblies.
The only real problem on installation(except for 1 side parked against the garage!) was the fittings in the backs of the wheel cylinders. I guess they had a right to fuss after 20 years. We also pumped a lot of nastyness out of the lines(Amy is a trooper!). I guess in the perfect world I would have replaced the lines, though we kept after it until it came through clear. Now it's ready for planting. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-17-2009 at 3:19pm
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I wanted to say thanks again to all who helped me get the trailer squared away. We towed to St. James city(N Ft Myers), back to the St. John's, and then home without the rear hubs even getting warm. The front hubs have the brakes and got a little above ambient temps, but not much more than that.
Smooth! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-17-2009 at 7:01pm
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Greg, how level does your trailer ride? I got mine to sit pretty evenly and all my hubs would stay the same temp- the brakes on the front axle didnt seem to have any effect. Im wondering if yours is a little nose-low? ------------- |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-18-2009 at 9:35am
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It may be a touch low in the front. I've only done a backyard assesment of the the tongue weight, and I did shine a couple of links on the safety chain last w/e. The flip side is where the prop guard rides; it seems to like where it is.
I thought the brakes were transferring the heat(not more than slightly warm)? They worked great! Also, my trailer has both axles mounted to either end of a swing arm and the trailer pivots on it. Wouldn't that be self leveling? Sort of?!!? LOL Dave said he'd only seen my trailer under a FN.  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-18-2009 at 12:26pm
I can only tell you from my experience that all 4 of my hubs ran the same temp. In cooler weather they ran cold, in warm/hot temps they run a little warmer. No difference between the axles though- and my brakes were a little grabby, if anything. You do want the trailer sitting perfectly level, though. Tongue weight is more a function of where the boat sits front to back on the trailer (where the bow stop is positioned). Sitting level is a function of your hitch height- I know some guys have to run a pretty tall riser (drop hitch inverted) to get their CC/Ramlin trailers level. Alot depends on the tow vehicle, obviously. Ive never seen an older CC tandem up close- but there are several BFN's in the diaries on them. I bet they tow nice- I always loved how mine tracked on the highway. ------------- |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-18-2009 at 12:48pm
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It did tow well. It tracked straight through the rougher areas of construction almost like it wasn't there.
We also had a boatload of camping gear in the truck. It's an '02 Z-71...Louise. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: February-18-2009 at 1:08pm
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I know it's supposed to be 10% tongue weight, but it sure seems like you can get away with less than that on a tandem. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-18-2009 at 1:25pm
No way! Trust me, you get a light tongue and youre wagging all over the place- its a scary feeling! Erring on the side of too much tongue weight is much preferred.  ------------- |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: February-18-2009 at 1:47pm
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I am comparing single to tandem, not the general theory. I'm not sure how well this applies though since these boats are relatively light. ------------- |