Print Page | Close Window

2001v-drive

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15448
Printed Date: March-19-2024 at 10:00am


Topic: 2001v-drive
Posted By: form&function
Subject: 2001v-drive
Date Posted: September-29-2009 at 10:06pm
I know some of you like original rebuilds and might find conflict with many aspects of my project but I ask that you look past that and try to appreciate all the hard work that goes into a project like this.I too love classic mustangs and think they are a work of art but this boat is a machine used four times or more a week.Its a tool we use often and as such cosmetic sacrifices have to be made in favor of function.This whole project is based on making the boat more usable and comfortable for our family and along the way a little more apealing to the eye.
Plans consist of stringer repair,v-drive conversion,fuel injection,new gellcoat(solid babyblue),ballast,perfectpass,heater and shower installs along with a whole new interior layout.
Most of you already know I am starting with Chris's old boat,the 88 model 2001 thats been in his family for a long time.



Replies:
Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: September-29-2009 at 10:18pm
A few pics before I started,















Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: September-29-2009 at 10:22pm
There's a guy on the2001.com that has already done this convertion, I posted it here a few months ago, it is worth the search.

I'll throw you a few things to consider:
1-fuel tank location, belly or under the bow deck
2-what brand and model of vdrive, trying to keep the same shaft angle and strut, what reduction gear.
3-Not much space for underfloor ballast, maybe it isnt worth the task.


My considerations after seeing this other guy's project
1- Fuel tank under the bow or underfloor but as forward located as possible.
2-Walter vdrive is cheaper and has the longer profile (as does the new PCM or older Velvets) for allowing the location of the engine in the rear and keep the shaft angle. 1.5:1 reduction would be nice.
3- No underfloor ballast, there's plenty with the engine on the back now.

Edit:
After seeing the pics of such a sweet boat I wonder why you want to modify it?????

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: September-29-2009 at 10:26pm
I started by stripping the old stickers with a 3M eraser wheel,















Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: September-29-2009 at 10:30pm
My v-drive came in on a pallet this week.I choose to use a new walters 1.5-1 like what come factory in a nautique for many reasons I will explain later,





Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: September-29-2009 at 10:31pm
%20 - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14368&KW=vdrive&title=v-drive-2001-sn

dripless seal is a must.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: September-29-2009 at 10:36pm
Thanks luchog I think I will add that to my list.


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: September-29-2009 at 10:39pm
Funny story,well not so funny to me.I talked my wife into a new engine for the boat and used the fact that it has 2000 hours as leverage.I also told her a gt40 would be a smart improvement over stock and planned to seal the deal with a compression check that was not so great.Well all the cylinders where the same except number five which was one pound less than the rest.Aaahhhh Oh well


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: September-29-2009 at 10:43pm
pretty well got the interior stripped except for the stubborn carpet,





This little bastard was no fun at all



Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-29-2009 at 11:57pm
Ryan - It's your boat & if you want it custom, then go for it!

The V drive we saw on 2001.com turned out very nice; I like the lounge seating arrangement.

Keep taking photos, this might just get us through the winter.

Will you be replacing the stringers?     Maybe you want to double them up at the stern for the increased load back there.

-------------
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: TRIP
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 1:04am
Interesting project! The other conversion was fantastic, it's been posted on probably every boating/boarding/skiing forum and everybody seems to absolutely love it. But with its classic look, it'd be a waste to put a tower on it. I've been wondering what an '85 or later 2001 V-drive wake-edition conversion would look like. So here we go...!

-------------
http://www.flyzone-cr.com" rel="nofollow - FlyZone Costa Rica Wakeboarding
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=8406&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1997 Super Sport


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 1:33am
I just love these boats so much its worth the time and money to me.I also don't have alot going on this winter.


Posted By: lfskizzer
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 2:04am
Hey Ryan,

I got a question for ya about your interior pieces that you took out. Email me at skizzer@optonline.net Thanks so far looking good. I am just finishing up my stringer job on my 85 did everything out of Coosa board so its completely composite, except the removable floor behind the dog house.

Thanks

Phil

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4457 - 2008 Ski Nautique 206
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2683 - 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 Series


Posted By: Waldo
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 6:07am
Wouldnt it have been easier or should I say less painful just to start a project like that on some abandoned hull. I have a weird feeling some furniture got thrown around Chris's college apartment after opening this post. Hopefully he lives on the ground floor or somebody needs to go over and padalock the sliding glass door to the balcony.

Waldo


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 10:29am
Ryan,
I admire your ambition even though I feel it would have been easier to start with a V drive hull! Of course then the hull would be different.

The shaft couplings can be a real PITA!! The couplings are a heat shrink fit. Looks like Chris got it on correctly - of course I'd expect that from him! Sometimes I feel it's easier and would take less time to pull the engine and then remove the shaft forward. Since you need to pull the engine, I'm just wondering why you didn't use that method. For future reference, using the four fine thread threaded rods with a deep socket between the prop shaft and the trans coupling works pretty good. You have the advantage of the four bolts instead of two to apply the pressure. BTW, if you plan on using that couplig half again, you should press it on the prop shaft, chuck up the shaft in the lathe and then take a cut on the mating face. There's a good chance that it's warped from using the two bolt puller.

I'm curiuos about your Walters choice? Fill us in!

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 11:55am
yes, me too, i have a couple beautiffffful hsw 630v's, much shorter stack up than the bw walters set up, self contained unit, can spin it either direction full power, should i keep going, ok ...all aluminum, no plantaries, much quieter, no u-joints, lol
its the cadillac of v-drives and if sought could be found cheap...plus some day they will be converted to electric shift and troll mode if needed

-------------
"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 12:39pm
Waldo,being in the streetrod/restoration business the first rule of thumb is start with the best you can find because it cost more to repair then to buy nice.I tried the best I could to let Chris know what I was doing and assume he will be very proud to have previously owned this boat when he sees the end result.Besides that I am rebuilding this dude and extending its life far into the future.

Peter,I didn't understand the magnitude of what I was involved in until I was already knee deep in torches and bent pullers.I guess I should have asked first and saved the time.

Eric,my first choice was the 630v but it was designed to run both directions so as to use two lefthand engines and cannot be setup for a right hand engine.I don't know how much the right hand really matters but I didn't want to risk any side effects from a direction conversion.I also considered a casale gearbox with a small driveshaft but found the cost to be very high and the people envolved with those boxes are a pita to deal with.
The reality is the rv26 walters is cheap easy to install and behind a 240 horse is almost bullet proof.I also felt like if I went to sell this boat the factory unit would look more professional.


Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 1:03pm
Originally posted by form&function form&function wrote:

Waldo,being in the streetrod/restoration business the first rule of thumb is
The reality is the rv26 walters is cheap easy to install and behind a 240 horse is almost bullet proof.I also felt like if I went to sell this boat the factory unit would look more professional.


Might as well size the tranny for 320 hp since you can get the 351 up to there pretty easy.

Tim

-------------



Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 1:43pm
Originally posted by form&function form&function wrote:


The reality is the rv26 walters is cheap easy to install and behind a 240 horse is almost bullet proof.I also felt like if I went to sell this boat the factory unit would look more professional.


Ryan,
You haven't gotten to the point of installing the Walters yet so it's not too late. I really question the unit being "bullet proof". Lots of problems out there with it!! The "U" joint design is not what I consider a engineering marvel!! You should give Eric a call and talk to him about the 630V.

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 1:47pm
If you are not able to reuse 90% of that interior I would seriously consider selling it all as a unit and starting from scratch if you havent already. I am all about the mods if you feel its going to increase your enjoyment of the boat but that was a seriously beautiful boat to begin with, its hard to swallow that your jumping right into gelcoat changes... very ambitious.

The 1.5:1 is going to make things interesting with the prop and running gear. That much of a torque multiplyer puts you well into a larger prop shaft diameter. Frankly a 1.23:1 is about the limits of a 1" shaft and that is why propellers arent made with larger pitches and a one inch bore. You can get away with it on the 1:23 with very careful selection of prop shaft material and running higher rpm/lower torque engines. With the best of materials and a stock 240 hp engine you may be able to run a 1" shaft but its the hairy edge and you will be limited to a prop that is underpitched (not necessarily a bad thing for a very wakeboard specific boat).

Should be a great project...

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 1:49pm
Eric, if he would have choosen the ZF, it's a much shorter unit he'd need to modify the strut and shaft angle to fit and that would be entering into dark territories.

Maybe not the Walters, but any "longprofile" unit.

Joe certainly has a point there, what's the largest diameter you can fit in there now? I'd use a 1' 1/8'' shaft too if possible with the 1.5:1, a 16 pitch propeller turns like crazy with that power reduction.

You dont have much propeller choices on 13' for that power reduction but you do on 13.5.




-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 4:19pm
To Form and function.
Great idea and good luck with the transformation.
I did the first SuperSport back in late 93 by transforming our Sport prototype over to V-drive configuration.

On this 2001 V-drive project the walters is a great choice. Robust! If at all possible I would couple it with a Borg 71-c even though the PCM and Hurth are lighter weight.

Keep us updated on your project. Also the OJ XPC shaft seal has worked marvelous in all our applications includung our old race boat!

-------------
Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 6:49pm
robust!!! decieving word, remove the r and the o, lol
I keep saving tranny's for all these projects, from a cost perspective he has the BW already, and is halfway there, but if you had to purchase the combo it would be more cost effective to go with the 630,
the 630 would shorten the engine hatch for more room in the boat. just posting for future reference..sht if i had a turbo 400 laying around i would try to use it,lol
If it was a wish list with no budget the choice for me would be the 630, and there is nothing wrong with the route your taking..
luch, the angles are close and if need be you could use a wedge plate to accomadate any angle

-------------
"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 6:54pm
and you could easily pump 500 ponies to the hurth, and to clarify F and F, you can only spin the input of the 630's left hand but, you could use a left or a right handed prop..because they are full power forward and a full power reverse transmission because of the lack of a planetary's

-------------
"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 7:29pm
Eric wich a much shorter unit you would need to put a lot of wedge plates.... or place the engine not all that far into the back, maybe it's doable but my point is that some planning needs to be done.



-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 7:51pm
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

and you could easily pump 500 ponies to the hurth, and to clarify F and F, you can only spin the input of the 630's left hand but, you could use a left or a right handed prop..because they are full power forward and a full power reverse transmission because of the lack of a planetary's


Yea! But they are notourious leakers their is a reason we call them throw away transmissions!

And for the record I am running nearly 700 Hp to a PCM 1:1 in a flat coupled to a Casale V drive after three years of hard launches and high RPM runs it has held up beautifuly, NOte: just dont throw em in reverse to hard!

-------------
Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0


Posted By: 84resto
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 8:14pm
Hi guys, followed this over form the2001.com.   I did the first conversion that was posted there and i guess someone took the picstures and posted them on here as well.

form&function,   first let me say good luck, its going to be a lot of work.   Youre starting at the right time, giving yourself 5-6 months to complete depending on where you are located.   

First, i went with a 1.21 ratio walters. So i cant comment on the 1.5:1

Dont worry about the shorter stack vdrive/trannys these guys are talking about. the position and angle of the shaft in the boat would only mean you have to move the motor further foward with a shorter stack setup.   So you dont gain any space in the boat. That is unless you change your shaft, shaft hole in the boat.   I dont think its worth it but thats up to you.

I used stock driveshaft and with walter everything fell right into place.

That boat looks liek its in GREAT condition!!! Might want to rethink that gelcoat job.   Its longgggg hard work and its expensive, and you have a great looking boat already.

If you have any other questions youre stuck on let me know.
   
What are you using the boat for? Wakeboarding or Surfing? I hope you dont plan on any slalom skiing.


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 8:23pm
84 resto, I was the one who posted your project on this site, I thought it was worth for everyone to check it out!.

I'll shoot you a few questions
Do you have any pics of your boat running? did it end up too bow high?
What prop did you finally put on? and what kind of performance are you getting out of it?
Does it porpoise at high speeds? if so where at?
Did you consider a different route for the exhaust pipes avoiding the U bend?




-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 8:37pm
Ryan, were in Oklahoma are you?

-------------
...those who have fallen and those who will.


Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 8:49pm
I get the feeling this is going to be my new favorite thread....sorry pumpkin patch. F&F that is ambitious but if I had half the skills that you and 84resto have, I'd do it myself. I am very much looking forward to following this during the offseason and sincerely hope you don't lose interest in posting progress pics and information. 84restos modifications blew me away and I hope that yours turns out just as good. Good Luck, man! That's a kick a@@ project

-------------
Steve
2011 Sport/Air 200
Excalibur 343
2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer

Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs)

Former Malibu owner (07, 09)


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 10:39pm
Just for the record this boat is totaly smashed.there are cracks running not only the length of the water line but also from the skegs to the sides.It was in need of major repair but Chris's dad wouldn't let him do more than a few floor sections and gell I am sure was out of the question.So its not a perfect boat just a old ski nautique in need of some serious work.There was a hand full of things that where nice and cannot be reused but I am sure they can be passed on too somebody else.


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 10:41pm
Originally posted by SN206 SN206 wrote:

Ryan, were in Oklahoma are you?


Altus Oklahoma nine miles from the texas border.


Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 10:44pm
I'm from Duncan, but live a 1/2 mile off of Lake Murray

-------------
...those who have fallen and those who will.


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 11:17pm
Pulled the gas tank and underwater gear today then put the boat on a rollaround,











left over interior,



Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 11:24pm
Boat factory had a 13-13 prop and was almost two inches from the hull.I called acme before I purchased a v-drive and he recomended a 1.5-1 tranny.I was told there where a ton of prop options and that a larger prop could be used safely.Im guessing I will end up with a 13.25-15.5 rh 105 cup


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: September-30-2009 at 11:46pm
Ryan,you guys still footin or did you call it quits for the year?


Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: October-01-2009 at 12:02am
We'll ski thru October then again on New Years Day. Start back up @ April

-------------
...those who have fallen and those who will.


Posted By: lfskizzer
Date Posted: October-01-2009 at 12:32am
Ryan,

I guess you missed my message, I am interested in the interior what ya asking for it. Let me know via email my 85 all has wood frames and looks to be all fiberglass/plastic in this.

-Phil


mailto:skizzer@optonline.net - My email addy

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4457 - 2008 Ski Nautique 206
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2683 - 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 Series


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-01-2009 at 1:00am
Phil,I will take a good look at the interior tommorow and snap some better pics so you know what your looking at.


Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: October-01-2009 at 2:34am
Hey F & F, keep the posts coming, it will be interesting to watch how this thing comes together. Watcha ya got hiding over in the corner, white with blue and writing on the sides, I can't make it out...

-------------
Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique
My Dad's 63 Ski N


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-01-2009 at 2:42am
Steve,thats a malibu skier waiting for its trailer.


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-01-2009 at 2:42am
Originally posted by form&function form&function wrote:

Boat factory had a 13-13 prop and was almost two inches from the hull.I called acme before I purchased a v-drive and he recomended a 1.5-1 tranny.I was told there where a ton of prop options and that a larger prop could be used safely.Im guessing I will end up with a 13.25-15.5 rh 105 cup


No offense to ACME they do good work but if they told you that they are mistaken. Your going to end up with a 38 mph boat if you run a 1.5 on that hull with that prop. Again if you want nothing but a weighted down wakeboard boat not an issue, and a good one inch shaft will hold up to that prop. A ton of prop options however is not a fact, I do have a 4 blade oj 13.5 x 17 x 1 rh that might work for you but it is as of now one of a kind. Imho, if you ever wanted to put any horsepower into that boat you will need a bigger shaft but what do I know that 3 or 4 thousand dollars worth of mistakes cant teach you.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-01-2009 at 9:11am
Ryan,
No offence to Acme but they are a prop manufacturer and I feel they don't have much first hand experience dealing with unusual hull/trans/engine combinations. I think you should take a look at some of Joes threads on what he went through with his props. Yes, he has the HP you don't but the experimenting gave him lots of prop knowledge!


-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-01-2009 at 8:01pm
I learned a important correct craft lesson today and am convinced after seeing mine that most people go about there daily lives oblivious to the degridation under there feet.From the time the floor is installed is a countdown to major damage from water retention and expanding foam.

















Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-01-2009 at 8:03pm
Foam was full of water all the way to the top and as I pulled it out water ran out of the drain plug on the floor.

Water seeps in from everywhere.I had a skeg that was leaking into the foam and instead of running down the floor was being sucked up and spread through the boat.There was a minor leak in the exhaust and it too was being sucked up.Take a wave over the bow and it runs in your vents straight to the foam.Drip on the floor near the battery and the plastic tray channels water around the roof of the wood floor.Once it gets a little water underneath it apply's so much pressure on the floor it seperates from the wall compounding the problem.Not to mention polyester resin is not water resistant in the first place.


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-01-2009 at 8:58pm
Enough to drive a man to composite stringers and leaving out the so called "closed cell" form... I tend to agree that any of these boats that has actually been used is probably in similar condition. But, ingnorance is bliss and most will never find out what lurks under thier feet.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-01-2009 at 11:25pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

But, ingnorance is bliss and most will never find out what lurks under their feet.

This is why I am not going to replace my carpet until I absolutely have to. It is all or nothing.

-------------
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: October-02-2009 at 12:37am
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

But, ingnorance is bliss and most will never find out what lurks under their feet.

This is why I am not going to replace my carpet until I absolutely have to. It is all or nothing.


Ain't that the truth.

Don't look if you don't want to know. Once you do...

-------------
Mike N

1968 Mustang







Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: October-02-2009 at 9:56am
I love posts like these...very inspirational. Please continue to post many pictures.
I have to think that under my floor probably looks similar to yours. I'm not going to find out any time soon though...

-------------
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...


Posted By: 84resto
Date Posted: October-02-2009 at 2:38pm
luchog, i dont want to hijack F&F's thread with details on my build.    If you point me to where you posted pics of mine I'll answer all teh questions you posted.

Also if youve posted on other sites send me the links for those as well. I'd be interested to see what everyone thought about the old 2001 becoming a vdrive.

Thanks
Dan


Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: October-02-2009 at 3:12pm
Resto,
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14368&KW=V%2Ddrive&title=span-classhighlightv-drive-span-2001-sn

Dont know how to link it nicely.

I just posted on this site, I guess overall the responses have been quite positive, you might have been the first one ever doing this convertion, so a few details could be improved, what do you think?



-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: October-02-2009 at 5:41pm
there you go luch... http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14368&KW=V%2Ddrive&title=span-classhighlightv-drive-span-2001-sn - resto´s v-drive 2001

you have to go to the full option post and put that hiper link in the old way!!! first the title and then the link...


-------------
<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-02-2009 at 5:51pm
I am going to whore this thread up with all kinds of stuff so it doesn't really matter what you guys talk about in here.


Posted By: Wacko
Date Posted: October-03-2009 at 3:41pm
I have a few questions. What is the reason for converting it to a v-drive? Is it simply to increase the seating area? By moving the engine to the rear is the goal to increase wake size? Because of the fact that the hull will be the same I imagine it will not handle rough water any better am I correct? Not trying to be a smart ass just trying to educate myself.

also keep the updates coming.

Thanks


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-03-2009 at 6:24pm
Craig,its real simple.The 2001 is a amazing wakeboat with just a thousand pounds you can make something very usable and still get decent mileage.We can board all day on twenty bucks and drag it home with less deisel.I sold a 09 last month because it would use over twice the gas of the 2001 and was a bear to drive.Just not as much fun.
The reason for the conversion is very simple.To correctly weight a 2001 you end up with bags on the floor and interior space much like a regular cab minitruck.When you convert to a vdrive the water tanks go next to the motor and under the bow leaving ample space for seating and storage under the wraparound seats.So its really all about space and nothing more.Attached is a pick of the dd 2001 weighted for reference.



Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-03-2009 at 6:27pm
Had to drive several hours today to pick up some douglas fir.Just like I thought decent would is a thing of the past but I got some usable peices.






Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: October-03-2009 at 11:51pm
Wacko, with more weight in the rear it will handle chop much better than before.

When water is choppy I send someone sit on the back and it smoothens the ride.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique

Commander 351W


Posted By: Wacko
Date Posted: October-04-2009 at 3:14am
Ok. Looking forward to seeing the finished product


Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: October-04-2009 at 5:06am
Ryan, glad you grabbed doug fir.


I'll search for pics of the all white 2001 with the original decals and pin stripes. It looks pretty dang good imho.

-------------


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-04-2009 at 10:25pm
Got the foam out today,not a fun job
I will start with the dumpster pick,bare in mind this is only port and bow foam,











Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: October-04-2009 at 10:30pm
Lookin good Ryan, You work in the dark down there or what?

Here's some pics of the boat I was telling you about. I think it looks sharp.













-------------


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-04-2009 at 10:50pm
I like the pick with the factory (correct craft competition ski boat).Looks classy all white with almost stock lettering.


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-05-2009 at 12:00am
Chris - Those jump seats are pretty trick. In windy conditions the stern seat can be a wet ride!

-------------
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: TRIP
Date Posted: October-05-2009 at 12:10am
Prettiest colorscheme I've seen on a 2001!

-------------
http://www.flyzone-cr.com" rel="nofollow - FlyZone Costa Rica Wakeboarding
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=8406&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1997 Super Sport


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-07-2009 at 11:05pm
Got one floor stringer built and it only took four days.I built the entire stringer twice as thick as factory and added interlocking supports.I started by beding with long strand fiber and then locked it in with one coat of woven up the sides.I then went back and put another coat of woven encasing the entire stringer.Still looks thin to me,

















Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 10:03am
what is the purpose of the strap across the top??

-------------
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...


Posted By: Cheaterpete
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 10:56am
nice work! can't wait to see next...

-------------
Actual boat SANTE 210 from 2014


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 11:29am
Originally posted by form&function form&function wrote:

I started by beding with long strand fiber and then locked it in with one coat of woven up the sides.I then went back and put another coat of woven encasing the entire stringer.Still looks thin to me

I agree. Most here (myself included) use at least 3 layers of glass on the stringers. In the past Ive done mat/cloth/mat, and will do mat/cloth/biaxial in the future. The mat and biax really add to the build up- it ends up being ~3/16" thick.

-------------


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 11:44am
Originally posted by form&function form&function wrote:

I started by beding with long strand fiber and then locked it in with one coat of woven up the sides.I then went back and put another coat of woven encasing the entire stringer.Still looks thin to me,

[


Since you ask... sounds a little thin to me as well. What is the weight of that cloth?. Your changing the whole loading of that boat when you move the engine I wouldnt be afraid to throw a couple extra layers of cloth at it. For the "interlocking supports" I would be less worried. I set mine in with 2inch, 4inch, and then 8 inch type, no bedding and only three layers, however on the 4 stringers I go with a minimum 2,2,4,4,8,8,full layer 10oz cloth, fully layer epoxy mat. Areas with more stress or with no floor on top got an addition layer (s) of the 10oz cloth oriented 45 degrees from the first and then a cap of epoxy matt over the top that extends up to 6 inches over the floor.

It takes a lot of woven cloth to build any thickness, and I do know the factory didnt always use the best materials or techniques but you will pull off areas of glass with considerable thickness, equal to a dozen layers of woven cloth or more. Also you doubled the thickness of the side stringer in the front where the v of the boat is taking more of the load but but cut it in half in the center of the boat where it is flatest, where the old motor load was and where the main stringers were cut down to allow engine installation. I dont think it is a big deal as long as you adjust your main stringers appropriately...

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 11:53am
if you build a nice aluminum cradle for the engine to rest on it will disperse the load, I actually seen my first engine torque, it ripped right from the stringers on power up, it was an IO, with rot...i didnt really think it was possible....but again it was a chevy lol

-------------
"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 1:00pm
I think I will go over it once more just to be safe but my main concern is the engine stringers.I have a plan for the mains that consist of several braces you can't get away with on a direct drive.I also don't know how to deal with the blank spaces between the wood seeing there will be zero foam in my boat.


Posted By: Fl Inboards
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 1:27pm
Wow! building it for big seas are ya!
Nice work! Very much overkill though on the sub stringers, going to be one hell of a solid boat!!
I agree about building a motor frame, distribute the load.
Keep up the good work, keep up with the pictures.

I have a 84 2001 and am getting some ideas!! Blown BBC, lenco and a 12 degree Casale V-drive!! Worlds fastest Ski Nautique,, Funny stuff!!

-------------
Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 1:44pm
Originally posted by form&function form&function wrote:

I also don't know how to deal with the blank spaces between the wood seeing there will be zero foam in my boat.


Here is how I did it, although I did have some foam from the front bulkhead onward, several have used plywood floors, some with foam some without. I went a little overkill with the support spacing but my boat is rock solid going down the lake and the floor has zero flex.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5635&PN=6&title=a-351w-stroker-from-scratch - Floor with no foam

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 1:59pm
Looks good Ryan, I agree with the engine cradle.

Where is your bulhead going to be? I'm guessing your going to put the tank in between the stringers up in the bow. You think you'll have enough room to put another tank to use as ballast under the mains?

-------------


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 5:21pm
Originally posted by Fl Inboards Fl Inboards wrote:



I have a 84 2001 and am getting some ideas!! Blown BBC, lenco and a 12 degree Casale V-drive!! Worlds fastest Ski Nautique,, Funny stuff!!


There was a guy on the v drive forum that built a drag boat out of a ski boat.When he would hammer on it the boat would jump out of the water and cavitate because skiboat propshafts have steep angles.Ten plus I think.


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 5:23pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:



Here is how I did it, although I did have some foam from the front bulkhead onward, several have used plywood floors, some with foam some without. I went a little overkill with the support spacing but my boat is rock solid going down the lake and the floor has zero flex.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5635&PN=6&title=a-351w-stroker-from-scratch - Floor with no foam


Your floor is almost identical to mine with the water channels.Did you notice any extra noise with the foam missing?


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 5:25pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

Looks good Ryan, I agree with the engine cradle.

Where is your bulhead going to be? I'm guessing your going to put the tank in between the stringers up in the bow. You think you'll have enough room to put another tank to use as ballast under the mains?



Chris,my design so far has two bulkheads with fuel in the center and ballast under the bow.As far as the cradle I plan to reuse the factory one.


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 5:47pm
Originally posted by form&function form&function wrote:


There was a guy on the v drive forum that built a drag boat out of a ski boat.When he would hammer on it the boat would jump out of the water and cavitate because skiboat propshafts have steep angles.Ten plus I think.


Sounds about right, mine will lift the back end out of the water if you hammer it with no one in the back, don't know if its the angle that is the cause but it does happen.

There is no noise as a result of removing the foam on my boat, but coosa board is a considerably better sound insulator than plywood so your mileage may vary depending on what you use for the floor.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: Chopper
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 10:34pm
Hey Joe,
I didn't think your hull was any more noisy than mine (stock).

Exhaust was a different story

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1540&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 98 Ski


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-12-2009 at 12:13am
Half way done with the stringers.I have to say it's getting really tiresome,









Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-12-2009 at 1:16am
That framing looks really stout!

-------------
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: October-12-2009 at 1:07pm
More ambition than me...

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier

62 Classic..
73 Ski Nautique


Posted By: nautiless
Date Posted: October-12-2009 at 1:54pm
Eagerly watching...

-------------
1982 SN 2001 RIP (Resto in Progress)

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4400 - Don's Diary



Posted By: Wacko
Date Posted: October-12-2009 at 2:09pm
Looks like it is coming along nicely


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-18-2009 at 1:01am
Keep on keepin on till its done













Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-19-2009 at 12:19am
Looks to me like two people glassed the floor in.The guy on the left was very careful and clean but the guy on the right was a slacker.I found huge gaps and naked wood all over the boat,I even found a drain that was draining under the stringer.Steel construction nails holding the frame together.Pretty crazy stuff.Its all gone now and a distant memory for me.







Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-19-2009 at 12:22am
If you look very close you can see that the floor sinks towards the center a quarter inch for proper drainage.


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-19-2009 at 10:19am
Originally posted by form&function form&function wrote:

If you look very close you can see that the floor sinks towards the center a quarter inch for proper drainage.


I did that as well and am glad I did. One thing to watch is engine cover clearance.

-------------
http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: October-19-2009 at 1:41pm
He is making a v-drive, he has to make a new one anyway.

Ryan, interesting run for the wires and cables. Curious as to why you don't just run them down the middle? Easier access for replacements like steering and such.

-------------
Mike N

1968 Mustang







Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-19-2009 at 2:03pm
Probably gonna be some kind of tank there?

-------------


Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: October-19-2009 at 2:40pm
Originally posted by form&function form&function wrote:







I would put in PVC pipe for conduit and run the cables through there. Make sure there is also enough room for two 1" hoses to fit so you can add a heater in the future.

Tim

-------------



Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: October-19-2009 at 2:53pm
I think I would still run them down between the primary stringers just for ease.
Run it all through a 4" PVC tube from the bow through the bulkhead at the front of the bilge. I do agree on a smaller PVC run for the wiring down the bilge, but heater hoses and steering cable I would run loose.

btw: Nice work so far Ryan! You are pounding this out pretty quickly.

-------------
Mike N

1968 Mustang







Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-20-2009 at 12:30pm
I purchased half inch marine plywood,do you guys think that will be sturdy enough?What method of mounting the plywood is the best?I know it has to be glassed to the wall.Should I screw it in and glass it?Should I make it removable?I thought about having the boat sent to a bedliner shop to have the floor sprayed and then make a removable carpet but bedliner is nothing to take lightly if it ever has to come off.


Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: October-20-2009 at 12:50pm
Ryan, I may be wrong but I think you want regular ply coated in epoxy instead of marine ply. If its treated the epoxy won't stick to the ply. My Skier is regular untreated 1/2" ply coated in epoxy and is very stout. My floor is also removable. Came that way from CC.

I'll give you a call later today, headin home this AM.

-------------


Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: October-20-2009 at 1:33pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

Ryan, I may be wrong but I think you want regular ply coated in epoxy instead of marine ply. If its treated the epoxy won't stick to the ply. My Skier is regular untreated 1/2" ply coated in epoxy and is very stout. My floor is also removable. Came that way from CC.

Chris, If he bought true marine plywood, I think he is ok. You might be thinking of treated plywood...that you dont want. Marine ply has different specs as to the voids allowed, etc,

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier

62 Classic..
73 Ski Nautique


Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: October-20-2009 at 2:48pm
Thanks Steve, whats the benefit of marine ply over regular coated with epoxy?

-------------


Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: October-20-2009 at 3:07pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

Thanks Steve, whats the benefit of marine ply over regular coated with epoxy?


I'm pretty sure marine has more plys.

I would cut to fit and spend lots of time soaking it in CPES before you install it.

In that spot where the cables go out I would put one of the access panels (the ones that are installed over the shaft log) where the cables make the bend in between the secondary and main stringer.


Tim

-------------



Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-20-2009 at 3:15pm
less voids
more plys?
waterproof glue

-------------


Posted By: form&function
Date Posted: October-20-2009 at 3:39pm
Its marine grade 1/2 inch plywood.I was told it has a different glue and is made of high quality wood.It looks to be about the best and smoothest plywood I have ever seen.Douglas fir I think.So glass the bottom then install it with stainless screws and resin the sides to the ply?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-20-2009 at 3:57pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

less voids
more plys?
waterproof glue


Yes, very tight specs on inner ply voids as in most cases, marine is structural.

Exterior ply uses the same waterproof glue.

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<



Print Page | Close Window