73 Skier Restoration
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16254
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 4:53pm
Topic: 73 Skier Restoration
Posted By: Keeganino
Subject: 73 Skier Restoration
Date Posted: January-11-2010 at 1:21pm
I started the topic plastic windshield and got so much help and I am sure that I will have the shiniest windshield on the block, but I am now the proud owner of a project boat. How bout these floors? Cry Cry Cry! A couple of hours work yesterday revealed what I did not want to see. The main stringers seem ok but based on everything I have read on here, there is no way they are dry. But I am still in denial... they are fine right? Not sure what to do since I do not have a garage or shop to work in. Should I start grinding out what I know is wet and rotten? The secondary starboard stringer was actually frozen yesterday when I was pulling chunks of it out. Is there such thing as a stringer repair job or is it all or nothing on the floor? Is there something I can do to get by a couple more seasons till I can get a shop to do it right or will that ruin the boat completely? It's all fun and games till your floors a rotted out!
   [/QUOTE] ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-11-2010 at 9:03pm
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Keegan - The most important factor for you to consider is safety. You don't want the engine to come loose during operation!
So check your motor mounts to see if the screws still hold torque; you might even want to grind the glass away near the motor mounts or drill a hole in the stringers to see if that wood is rotted (my guess is that it will be). If they don't hold torque, it is unsafe to run the boat, IMO. The removable panel in back could be easily replaced. If your main stringers are rotted, they need to be replaced. Trying to do a partial repair is just wasting time, effort, & money in the long run. I know this isn't what you wanted to hear. Maybe you can put up a ridge pole above your boat & have a big tarp to create a workspace so you can get this project done before summer. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: January-11-2010 at 9:52pm
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Chris is right it looks like its time for the rebuild. ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-11-2010 at 10:31pm
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Keegan,
Have you checked the engine/prop shaft/strut alignment? You do have a stringer rot problem!!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-11-2010 at 11:21pm
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Snobsessed- Like knowing your woman has been running around on you I just had to hear it straight. I have not tested the engine mounts yet but that one stringer is mud and there is plenty more where that came from so I am not real optimistic.
UK- You are a scientist! I have read a lot about your amazing glass work and foam tests. Pbrain- I have no idea how to check that, but I ran her several times in October and November with no noises or performance issues that I could notice, and I have been driving her for years. I was not really taking it easy on her either. Got up to 49 mph on the gps to test how accurate the old airguide speedo is. Pretty darn accurate! Now for upcoming business- I need some info about tenting off and if you could please point me to the best threads on grinding and removal technics. Also about blocking the boat up for the work. I have a friend with a shop who can pull and store the engine, but not enough room for me to work in. I just finished remodeling the house. Why not rebuild a boat? All input is welcomed and appreciated. If I am going to do it I might as well do it right and back to original. Found some interesting contraband in the bow! It was ooooooooooooooold! |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 2:14am
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Do a search for stringer rebuilds and make sure to do an advanced search and look back atleast a year. I'm on the phone now so I can't help ya anymore till I get infront of a comp. Great looking boat tho!!! Looking forward to seeing the progress! ------------- |
Posted By: Cslaten33
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 4:57am
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Hey man that is what my floor looked like, so I just grabbed a dye grinder and a cutting wheel and took off around the out side of the floor on my boat. It took several hours of hard to get the floor out. I personaly thought the saturated foam was the biggest pain in the ass. Good luck.
Clark Slaten ------------- Thanks Clark Slaten |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 12:59pm
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What sort of contraband? Was it rotted? ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 1:13pm
| It was weird what I found. There was a tiny bit of green remnants but then there were hundreds of baggies all with the corners cut out. I mean hundreds! All bagged inside bags insides bags and very dry. Green was not their main thing. I was hoping to find something cool in the boat like a diamond ring. I am just glad we have never been boarded and searched. There was enough evidence left in there to go to jail for trafficking! Maybe there is a vacuum sealed bag full of cash under the floor. I can dream right! |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 2:12pm
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Haha...thats an interesting find there! I don't think I've heard anything like that before, your boat is from the 70's tho! ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 4:06pm
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Lots of interesting things have been found in the bilge and foam. Seems like the CC factory didn't have any garbage service and it all went out with the new boats! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 5:07pm
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Keegan, do a search on here- a member named JDiggs created a drawing for Ski Tique stringers which would be the same for your Skier (same hull). We're using them as a guide on our '71 and they should be helpful in putting together your material list, at the very least.
You need to do some reading on here to determine a few things before you buy your materials... foam vs. no foam, stringer and floor material, etc. There are several ways to do it. I wouldnt bother supporting the hull with anything more than the trailer. Ive gutted a Ski Tique and our '71 and havent bothered- the 16' boats have small, thick hulls and really dont flex much at all. ------------- |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 5:43pm
Great info thank you! Foam foam foam. What kind and what do you think about it? I would like to build a cooler into the floor behind each seat. Fill it with beer foam 
Seriously though I have so much to learn before I even think about making my first cuts. Threads are great and key info is hidden all through them but... A book would be great. Any recommendations? You answered step 1- That I can work on it on the trailer. Step 2 is where it all gets dicey! Thanks for pointing me at those stringer drawings. You rock! |
TRBenj wrote:Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 6:14pm
I think you'll find more than enough info here on the forums to answer any question that you have. Search, search, search- and read, read, read! Here are some big hitters on stringer/floor jobs. My apologies to anyone I forgot. In no particular order: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9543 - Buffalo's '88 Barefoot Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5409 - Skibum's '87 Ski Nautique rebuild http://freewebs.com/billsboatworks - (and his website) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12666 - aka's '83 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12301&KW=&title=water-behind-a-stringer - Wakeslayer's '68 Stang http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5635&KW=&title=a-351w-stroker-from-scratch - Joe in NY's all composite 60mph Nautique rebuild http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12717&KW=&title=79bfn - The Grinch's '79 BFN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13673&title=uks-78-sn - UK79's '78SN Hasbeenskier has also done a beautiful job restoring 2 '81's with composites... a SN and a BFN. He has numerous threads on each, so do some clicking and read those too. ------------- |
Posted By: Bremsen
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 6:17pm
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Keeganino,
Bill made a great site that is about as close to a book as you'll find on the subject http://billsboatworks.webs.com/ - Bill's Boatworks *edit-TR beat me to it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=923&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Our 88 SN2001 |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 7:15pm
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Bill's rebuild page is a great read. His ability to inject some humor into things that are simply not funny, is second to none. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-12-2010 at 8:05pm
This is exactly what I was looking for. Nice website. 
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Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-18-2010 at 7:10pm
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Here is an update. It was 60 here today so I got out there and did some poking around. Here is what I have found- STRINGER PUDDIN'! YUM YUM! I can almost taste the resin now and I am starting to itch. Starboard side is the worst, with rot all along the stringers. The transmission mounts would not tighten, they just spun in place. There was major rot under the driver seat. Notice the screwdriver that is poked all the way through the stringer. I wish I would have done all of this back in October, and was halfway through the re-build. I had fantasies of running her for the summer but now I am hoping I can get her rebuilt before it gets cold again.
See any potential water entry points here? 
Sorry I already ate this bowl of Stringer Pudding 
I don't think that is supposed to go there. 
Yummy puddin 
Crack Kills! 
She did not keep her motor clean 
Stringer Pudding for everybody! 
I have been following a few different threads on here about stringer repairs and am working out my own details right now, like how to pay for all this, where to do the work, and how long it will take me. Other than that I am more than convinced that she will not see the water again till she is shining like new. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-18-2010 at 7:34pm
Keegan, the number I have heard estimated is about 200 hours for a complete stringer and floor job. Keep posting the pictures- it will be a good reference for many of us going forward! We'll be picking up where we left off on our Skier come springtime. ------------- |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-18-2010 at 8:05pm
200 hours Five 40 hour weeks of work. It sounds so easy... 
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Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-19-2010 at 1:53pm
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Today I am going to start at the rear of the boat and begin taking it apart. Am thinking of starting with the fuel tank and working my way forward. Want to remove all the hardware down to the structure before I get started. Any suggestions before I get out there this afternoon?
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Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-19-2010 at 11:26pm
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I can see that this may take me a bit longer than some of you because of my all around lack of experience. This is my first boat and I am about to rebuild it from scratch. My wife will tell you I am a glutton for impossible tasks. I go out there today and I figure I will start taking it apart from the rear to the front. Seems logical right… Get all the fuel out of the tank and get the tank out so I can get the platform off.
I took off the hardware above deck and then removed the fuel line from the filter, leaving it attached to the tank. Notice in the pictures this is the original fuel line. It says 1973 on it. Then I siphoned the gas out into a 2 gallon container one at a time till it was empty. (Now I wish I had taken her out one last time and run some seafoam through the tank before she goes into restoration. Neat trick I used was to cover the escape valves and blow into the tank so I did not have to suck any gas. The gas went into the minivan. After the tank was drained I started disconnecting the wires going to the tank and blower. What is the window above the gas tank for? I can see why you might need to get in there, but what is the light for, and why would you need to see down there on a regular basis? All that is down there are some wires and the top of the gas tank. Another big problem area. As you can see in the pictures there is wood rot under that glass hatch and all of the snaps pulled out by hand. There is wood up unda there and it is wasted. Do I have to take the top off to fix this? I will be following the standard of pilot drilling, CPESing, and 5200ing all screws when I get to the putback. Did not actually get the tank out today but It is ready to come out. The bolts will be hard to get to with my paws but looks straight forward enough. The supports under the tank are wrapped in what appears to be the same fabric as the seats are. White vinyl… Why would they do that? It seems like that would just be a place for moisture to lurk. There are some pieces stuck to the floor that look like they could be remnants of the original vinyl floor. Basket weave pattern, but the color is wasted. Almost black. Will try to photograph that once I get the tank out. See what ya’ll have to say about it. I have been reading reading reading. So much to learn about the putback, but I am ready for the demo. Before getting started 
Removed all of the hardware above 
More wood rot. Not where I expected to find it. 
Draining the tank and the original fuel line from 1973! 
|
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-19-2010 at 11:43pm
That glass window is the "site window" for the gas tank. Early boats didnt have an electronic fuel gauge at the dash- instead, they had a mechanical one right on the top of the tank. The wires you see would have connected a light that allows you to see the mechanical gauge while looking through the site hole (which turned on with the dash lights). This is how my Inca Gold Skier is set up- the electronic gauge must have been optional! CC is famous for using whatever scraps of material for miscellaneous fastening on the boat- people have found gas tank, wiring harness and muffler supports all have wrapped in carpet or vinyl remnants. Cost savings at its finest! ------------- |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: January-19-2010 at 11:48pm
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Keegan, our 74 Skier had the same glass plate and was used to check the fuel level. Made it pretty tough to tell during the daytime.
Good luck on your rebuild! You'll be more proud of her when its all said and done! Keep us up to date! ------------- |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-19-2010 at 11:56pm
I am getting ready to send off to correct craft to get the born date and am hoping they can give me some info on the options it was equipped with as well as the color numbers for the gelcoat. I know that the waterline stripe and the seats were an optional upgrade. The seats are opposite the boat. White seats with red piping. I am going to have those done back to original. Cool to know about the sight window. Maybe I can put the lite behind a CC logo and have it showing through the window. Anybody else done anything with this legacy window? |
Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: January-19-2010 at 11:57pm
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Keegan you will soon have it back together with all the info on the site, it may take some time but its all there.
Good luck. ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-20-2010 at 12:09am
I figure I will not ever have to pay anybody to work on her either. I will be the master of my own domain! Ok I am only grasshopper right now, but I will be master when I am done! |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-20-2010 at 12:16am
Thanks Roger! Your work is amazing and I am following your info closely. Glad I just have a skier and not a BF for my first project! I used to live in Leeds. Where abouts are you? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-20-2010 at 8:38am
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Keegan,
I don't believe you mentioned if you have the original mechanical gauge in the tank. Is it still there? You mentioned hoses. That feature was actually a upgrade for a boat. Before the site glass/mechanical gauge you would have to "stick" the tanks. (literally put something like a yardstick down through the tank fill) ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-20-2010 at 12:31pm
There is no mechanical gauge on the tank. It looks like the electronic gauge went in the hole where the mechanical one came out. This boat definitely came with a few of the options, so maybe it came that way? Hoping to get the tank out today before it starts raining again. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-20-2010 at 12:52pm
What's up on the dash? Does the actual gauge look original? Just wondering if it was added/changed later. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-20-2010 at 1:17pm
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Pete
Here are some pictures of the gauges and the top of the gas tank looking through the site window. It all looks stock to me, but then again anything that old looks original. Through the site window 
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-20-2010 at 1:40pm
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Looks original to me! ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-20-2010 at 2:26pm
Same here! Clark, Here's a good picture of the Teleflex gauges. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: January-20-2010 at 7:45pm
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[/QUOTE] Thanks Roger! Your work is amazing and I am following your info closely. Glad I just have a skier and not a BF for my first project! I used to live in Leeds. Where abouts are you?[/QUOTE] Keegan I'm 30 miles west of London not that far from Watford, your be safe here for the rebuild with so much knowledge here from the guys. ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-20-2010 at 8:03pm
Thanks Roger! Your work is amazing and I am following your info closely. Glad I just have a skier and not a BF for my first project! I used to live in Leeds. Where abouts are you?[/QUOTE] Keegan I'm 30 miles west of London not that far from Watford, your be safe here for the rebuild with so much knowledge here from the guys. [/QUOTE] Nicer weather down there than up in Leeds! All I remember is cold and rain the entire year I was there. When it comes to this re-build there is no way I could have envisioned this restoration without a resource like CCF.com Things are starting to come together in my mind. Putting together my D Fir order list today so I can call around and get some prices. It rained today and I could not work on the boat. My next steps are to pull the fuel tank, unwire the engine and get it ready to be pulled. Once that is out I am going to get crazy chopping out the floor. |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-21-2010 at 10:35pm
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Am I going to have to remove the cap to repair this, and if I do that can I fill the cap with 2lb foam to make up for not putting foam in the floor?
------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-21-2010 at 11:24pm
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Keegan,
It's hard to tell from the pictures but what's rotted? The ply backing at the deck openings? If so, just grind off the bad ply. grind flush and then you could actually glue new CPES'd/epoxied ply on with 5200. What foam are you worried about? On the bottom side of the deck? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-22-2010 at 12:16am
Pete- The picture is of the rot under the sight window. Every screw hole through the top there was rotted out. All of the snaps came out without turning. Just pulled them right out. The sight window is the biggest hole therefore it has the most visible damage. Your CPES'd plywood idea sounds good to me. With the screws going into the wood it is not going to fall even if the 5200 is not cured yet. I was worried about trying to glass over it in place, with gravity and all. As for the foam I am about to do a complete stringer job and do not plan to re-foam anywhere but in the front around the hoses. I was thinking if I had to take the top off to fix the rot under the back there I could foam the gunnels and all around in the cap. Just thinking out loud. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 10:24pm
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Two interesting things I found here today.
1.The spider cracks around the platform mount. Should I reinforce this on the inside with plywood when I am replacing all the other wood in the transom? 2. Definitely need to add draining the speedometer intake when winterizing the boat. Check out the crack in the tube!  ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 11:34pm
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Keegan,
Platforms didn't come out of the factory until 1978 so yours was added. The spider cracking was caused by the PO not installing it properly not using any transom reinforcement. Yes, if you want to put the platform back on, then ply needs to be added to the transom at the mounts. It should be CPES'd and glassed in just like your stringers. The pulsation dampener can be repaired by soldering with a solder that has some silver in it. BTW, water should not even get up that far into the dampener so you'll want to check for air leaks in the pitot tubing or even in the speedo itself. There's a bellows inside the speedo that can crack/split. It too can be repaired. Since the bellows flexs, it must be soldered with a all silver silver solder. The bellows changes the air pressure created from the pitot/water into the mechanical movement for the speedo needle. With the tubing itself, it's best to just replace with new. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 11:36pm
I mentioned earlier in the post that the wood holding the gas tank was covered with vinyl and that would surely trap moisture. Sure enought the wood was more like foam and the top of the stringer came off when I pulled it up. One more reason that I made the right decision to go ahead with this restoration.
 ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 11:48pm
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Keegan,
The vinyl was under the tank as sort of a cushion between it and the glass. It helped keep the tank from sliding around if the straps loosed with time. The vinyl also protected the tank coating (paint/plating) from rubbing off keeping it from rusting. The vinyl didn't really contribute to the rot problem. do your stringer job and put the vinyl under the tank back in. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 11:55pm
Pete what do you think about cutting the plywood similar to the grey box in the picture below? One piece that will support the platform mounts and the exhaust as well.
 ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-23-2010 at 11:59pm
My tank was bolted down to the strips of wood and I am pretty sure my gas tank is solid stainless steel. Is that not the norm? ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 12:09am
The gas tank and the vinyl in question.
 ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 9:32am
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Your tank is aluminum and will clean up nicely. On later models, CC used 1/8" rubber pads where you have vinyl; probably to help with noise. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 1:31pm
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i read an article that ethenol corrodes fiber glass???? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 1:53pm
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Keegan,
I would question as to whether your tank is original or not considering the tank mounting. We've all see crazy things the factory did but I just don't think they would have set the tank on the vinyl covered 2x4's. I may be wrong and someone with the same era boat may chime in. Just plan on using the same tank but when you do the stingers incorporate the mounting into that project. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 1:58pm
Thanks for the info guys. The more I learn the more questions I have... Pete mentioned something about "Straps" coming loose on the gas tank? Mine did not have any straps around it. Can somebody please fill me in? Secondly does it make sense to cut one piece of ply to reinforce the transom for the platform and exhaust as poorly illustrated in the picture above. I was thinking it would be easier to just do one and that it would add extra support. Any arguments against doing this? Eric if you spill the shine on my boat you are out! Cut off! Interesting to know. Is this also true for epoxy resin?------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 2:06pm
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Both the Mustang and the Nautique had 2 1x3's across the stringers with some tread like tape. The edge of the tank has a lip that a 6 to 8 inch 1x3 perpindicular clamping the tank down on each side.
We discussed the idea of doing a piece of ply for the exhaust and deck supports just like you are showing. Still trying to figure out what to do. The ply that was glued to the transom for the swimdeck is exposed and still in great shape, probably from having air to dry. If I leave it in, I will CPES and cap it. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 2:08pm
That makes sense because a PO added the platform and they would have had to remove the gas tank to do so. What are the straps you refer to? Were the tanks held in there with some kind of tie downs? Are you saying I should glass the tank mounts into the top of the stringers making them more a permanent fixture? ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 2:11pm
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Keegan,
Straps were used on some of the earlier tanks. They were typically perforated steel "plumbers" straping. Many of the steel tanks had them. Your tank is self supporting so all you need is a level surface under the mounting feet incorporated into the stringers. Then, a rubber pad and bolts. Sorry about the ply at the transom question! Yes, your plan looks good. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 2:11pm
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Both of mine were Long Cruise 18 gal. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 2:13pm
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FYI, there were no straps on my Ski Tique gas tank. The flanges at the ends were screwed down to the 1x3's that spanned across the stringers. The 1x3's were wrapped in some sorty of black vinyl.
Why not make a big rectangle backer instead of an L-shaped one? That would provide a backer for the lower platform bracket bolts as well. ------------- |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 2:34pm
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Tim it sounds like our tanks were fastened the same way. This is all good information. I don't see how I could just make the plywood a rectangle because to get down around the exhaust I have to put that L in it. Or maybe I am misunderstanding your concept...
Thanks guys! ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 3:57pm
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I just got done sitting under there for an hour grinding and chiseling. One observation about using one big piece of wood is, at least on my 67, a pretty good curve back there. I would not be able to use the 3/4" thick that I was thinking of. I may leave mine as is. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 7:07pm
I was thinking about that too. There may be too much curve for one piece of wood. MOST of the things they did in this boat had a reason behind them. Then again some darn fool said "a wheel ain't quite good enough I think I can reinvent it". All he came up with were tires, but that is a vast improvement over stone. I should probably just stick to the plan. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-24-2010 at 11:29pm
Keegan, like this:  ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-25-2010 at 12:09am
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[QUOTE=WakeSlayer] Both the Mustang and the Nautique had 2 1x3's across the stringers with some tread like tape. The edge of the tank has a lip that a 6 to 8 inch 1x3 perpindicular clamping the tank down on each side.
QUOTE] Mine was the same way except they used some pieces of that basket weave floor covering under the whole tank. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-25-2010 at 12:54am
So put that in in before the floor and then glass the floor to that ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-25-2010 at 1:11am
Well, yes- thats an option. I would put the wood in the transom first and glass the secondary to it. Id actually leave the floor a bit short of the transom though. That will give you access to the back side of the platform brackets bolts- so you can through bolt them top and bottom instead of lagging them. ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-25-2010 at 2:25pm
Most definitely. I would leave as much open as you can behind the transom deck line. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-25-2010 at 10:33pm
Got my feet wet today boys. 4.5 inch grinder with a diamond wheel. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-25-2010 at 10:35pm
I used the guard as a guide to give me a lip around the edge for reference later.  ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-25-2010 at 10:38pm
I dont plan to leave any original wood in the boat. The rudder port was solid, but had a large water stain. All the more reason to take these guys advice.
 ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-25-2010 at 10:43pm
The PO bragged about how solid that floor was. I stepped there after the glass was up and almost broke my foot when I fell through!
 ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-25-2010 at 10:45pm
Did not cut out the air box yet. Not looking forward to that at all.
 ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-25-2010 at 10:51pm
I got my first taste of digging foam just as the sun was going down. Had to pack it in for the day. That first part came out pretty easy with the saw, and a pry bar. Should be getting the engine pulled this week. The sooner the better!
 ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-25-2010 at 10:56pm
This is me last year behind this boat, and that is why I am doing this. There is absolutely no way I could have ever dreamed of taking this project on without the help of You guys. Thanks a million!
 ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: January-25-2010 at 11:41pm
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Keegan, keep chipping away
Looks like you made some good progress. I'd guess once you get the motor pulled it will make life easier when tearing things out. Keep up the good work and keep the pics comming! ------------- |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 1:00am
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Thanks I am motivated to get her finished as fast as I can. Being one of the smaller boats, it will be a lot easier to get around in there with the motor out for sure. I will keep "Chipping away"! I have a little over four months before the kids get out of school and they are expecting to spend long days on the lake and my wife expects to have the tan of tans by July.
130 days left till school gets out Immediate goals Foam removal- 3 days tops Measure everything!- not going to get many, if any whole stringers out for templates. Luckily Jdiggs has some great blueprints. Engine removal Build jig to span beam for reference measurements. Take photos reread everything I have already read. Once you have been there all these threads make more sense. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 8:44am
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When you get to the airbox you'll want the cables and wiring harness out of the way, and then you can cut it out and later glue it back in. There are a few pics of that in the pumpkin patch. Don't stress on the vent hoses; they'll be trashed anyway. Also, now is the time to take a million pics. Get a shot of everything from more than one angle and you'll thank yourself later!
Looking good and get all that stuff out of your way!  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 4:23pm
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Thanks I was really happy to actually get in there and do something. So far I have almost 300 pictures of this project. All the planning and documentation was necessary so I could wrap my head around this project. I will look at the air box part of pumpkin patch. People try to save that and put it back in?
Talked to my mechanic friend who is willing to barter me making him a website for his shop for pulling, storing, and painting my engine. Possibly replacing the rear main seal, definitely points and condensers. and all new hoses. Best part is we are doing it at 11am tomorrow morning! Diggin foam this afternoon. People talk about how their foam was dry on top and wet on the bottom. Mine is wet right there on top. I am thinking the wake is not going to be nearly as big when I put it back together, but I bet it jumps out of the hole even faster than before. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 4:32pm
I wouldnt attempt to save the air box... that seems more trouble than its worth! On my Ski Tique, I cut it out and threw it away. I kept the lip at the edge for when I poured the foam- that allowed me to shape it properly. I just covered it with glass like the rest of the floor- just like it was built from the factory.
 ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 4:33pm
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I would defnintely replace the engine seals while you have it out. Otherwise your nice new shiny bilge is going to get full of oil. Guess how I know...
Consider your tranny seals too. Check your timing chain. Mine was loose and just a few bucks to replace. You are already there, and these are cheap easy things to do. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 4:50pm
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[QUOTE=Keeganino] , definitely points and condensers. and all new hoses. Best part is we are doing it at 11am tomorrow morning!
QUOTE] definitely replace them... with a Mallory E-spark unit not new points and condensor, call Billy he as all the info you need. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 4:58pm
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Bah, save your money on the conversion kit. Theres nothing wrong with points! ------------- |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 7:27pm
Bah, save your money on the glass needed to rebuild the box.  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 11:43pm
I agree. If if it aint broke dont fix it. I plan to stick with P and C's. Since I am bartering for the work that gives me a bigger budget for the engine, or should I say- a budget. Supposedly this engine has never been rebuilt. I will see what my mechanic thinks. He actually owned this boat for several years so he knows the engine very well. It ran well in November but as wake slayer mentioned, there was oil coming from somewhere, and I don't want that in the restored bilge. New seals are a great idea. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-26-2010 at 11:59pm
I know I showed it yesterday but this is another look at the spot under the drivers seat. I have no idea how the seat did not fall through the floor.
 ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 12:02am
Unfortunately my stringers are not laid out like the ones in the blueprint. Notice the angle at the end of the (edit)secondary stringer.
 ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 12:10am
I used the sawzall to cut around the perimeter of each cavity of foam and then used my wrecking bar to pull up large sections. I like the idea of a wire brush on the end of a drill to get all the stuck on pieces out. The engine is coming out tomorrow. Then I will have some room to work. Will also get the cables and wires out after the engine is out so I can really get busy.
 ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 1:10am
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You mean on the end of the main? Mine are blocks tacked on top of the mains with a piece of thin wood connecting them. Same thing in the front for the tabs for the kickboard. The tops of my actual stringers are straight. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 1:47am
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I was referring to the secondaries. At the end there by the exhaust the stringer takes a cut towards the outside wall of the hull. Not the same as the prints I got from jdiggs. In fact the stringers are totally different. Grrrrr!
Back to the old drawing board... ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 9:31am
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Get the engine out, all the foam and post some more pictures. I'd like to see a better view of the secondaries. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 11:36am
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Keegan, you can still use the stringer patterns that JDiggs created. Same hull, same engine, same PCM engine mounts. Dont let the minor differences confuse you- theyre still compatible! Like I said, we're using them on our Skier.
The difference youre seeing in the secondary stringer is only in the exhaust cavity. In the newer boats (Ski Tique), they got wider sooner. Rather than wait until the last 6", they widened the cavity just aft of the motorbox. This was probably due to the addition of mufflers (which were larger in diameter than the copper tubes). Doing yours in the newer style would give you a bit more room to work with- installing your hoses would be easier and you would have the option of adding mufflers someday. It appears the secondaris are in the same place on both boats.  ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 11:48am
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solid advice and bad jokes? some of the best jokes ive read were on CCF ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 11:51am
Pete, this may help you visualize:
 ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 12:06pm
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Got it Tim, thanks. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 1:22pm
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Good news thanks Tim! I was getting a little bit nervous there. Getting ready to take her down to my friends place and pull the motor. Then back to digging out foam. Its all happening pretty fast, but I have not started grinding yet. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 1:24pm
Eric you need to get out more then! Mostly the bad joke are coming from me.------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 3:32pm
Which seals are you referring to? PO said that the rear main seal needed to be replaced. My mechanic said that the worst one to deal with if it is bad would be the "rope seal". I don't know what that is or what is involved so... I told him to give me an evaluation and ball park for the work he thinks need to be done. Told him I would like to make it look show room, but if there are problems that need to be addressed first we will do the cosmetics next winter. WHen he gets that information to me I will post it here for the ccf members thoughts. I don't know much about working on engines, but want to learn and eventually do my own mechanical work. Probably more fun than grinding fiber glass for days! There is a sweet 70's CC Mustang just rotting away not a block from my house. The guy just wants it of his property. If this goes well I may be repeating the process on that boat too. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 82 Nautique 1
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 3:38pm
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Keegan,
You will be so happy to be finished grinding fiberglass (and itching) you will snap up that 70 Nautique in a heart beat. ------------- Original Owner " Dennis" http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4855" rel="nofollow - 1982 Nautique |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 3:39pm
be carefull with the while Im at it..LOL you will end up redoing the engine..LOL I think the rope seal the mech is referring is the shaft seal were the prop shaft goes through the hull..in the worst you can simply replace the whole assy with a dripless seal for under $200...but repacking the rope ain´t a hard task..search and you´l find some threads on the subject ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 3:44pm
I dont think so Kap- the packing is one of the easiest things to replace! Im guessing the mechanic is referring to the rear main seal, just like Keegan said. There are a few different types- rubber, rope, etc. Ive never had to do a rope seal before, but I know some people have used them on reverse rotation engines instead of the direction-specific rubber ones with good results. I believe Reid has one in his Classic and Gary S may have on in his Mustang. ------------- |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 3:50pm
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thats why I said "I think"..LOL
but a rubber seal can replace a rope seal or it depends on how the block was casted? ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 4:01pm
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I believe even the early windsors all had rubber seals. The rotation specific wick lines were cast into the crank, so generic automotive seals can be used. It wasnt until the early 80's sometime that the switch was made to put the wick lines in the seals and not the crank... smooth cranks would require a direction specific seal.
My understanding is that the rubber seals are generally better and easier to install... but you can probably put a rope seal in if you want to. I believe its an option to consider when a rotation specific rubber seal is not available. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 4:12pm
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I don't believe you can interchange a lip seal for a rope seal or a rope seal for a lip seal. A rope seal has to have two walls to contain it plus an O.D. to compress against simular to how an o-ring groove is machined and would be used. A lip seal only requires a bore for it to be pressed into.
only simularity is they both ride on a polished journal. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-27-2010 at 4:12pm
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This site is about sharing experience so here's a little of mine...
I had 3 major decisions to make with my BFN. It needed stringers, it needed an engine rebuild, and the tranny was shot. That's what I felt needed doing to have it seaworthy. Stringers-I felt like I was in my skill set and found this site for most excellent advise. The stringers and floor came out well. Engine-I really wanted to do this myself and did. I should have a nickel for every time I've had it back apart...even with parts spread all over the dock. Wish I had a pic.
Tranny-I sent it to Eric at Fantastic Finish Marine...1 price and perfect! My point is sometimes it's better to let a pro do his job. The next good 4-bolt core I find will be going to Race City Marine. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |