1975 Skiier Stringer Replacement
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16715
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 12:44am
Topic: 1975 Skiier Stringer Replacement
Posted By: srbranum
Subject: 1975 Skiier Stringer Replacement
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 11:04am
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Good morning. My name is Scott and I am 49 years old and would you believe this is the FIRST time I have ever posted anything anywhere!! No facebook, twitter, ect...... I know, I am behind the times but I seem to get by. Old school like my boat I guess!!
Let me explain my situation. I have not read any posts on this website related to my subject and decided to just post this and read later. I was replacing the wood beneath the seats and was making great progress until I ran into what seems to be a common problem with boats this old. The smaller stringers that run the length of the boat are rotten in some places and perfect in others. The stringers that support the engine are in great shape. The small stringers are approximately 1" X 4" or 5". All of the stringers behind the engine bordering the bilge area are rotten and I have taken them out. The other stringers are rotten in some places and beautiful in others. Should I patch the areas that are rotten or just go ahead and replace them all so I will never have to do it again?(I have owned the boat for 21yrs) Should I keep the boat original and use epoxy treated wood or go with a synthetic material? I ran across a great idea on YOutube from a Shipshape TV episode where he used a product called Preforms(www.Preforms.com) which are prefabricated stringers that will never rot and are easy to install. Also, where do I buy replacement foam to fill in the voids I am fixing to cut out? I guess I am asking for any help anyone can give me. Trying to get the boat ready by May for my son to start skiing. You can view my boat and details about it on this website under 1975 Correct Craft Skiier in Alabama. Email me anytime at sdbranum@knology.net but this email is fixing to change any day so I will have to update my profile. Thanks Scott Huntsville, AL ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Replies:
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 11:21am
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Welcome to CCFan Scott.
As long as you are in there, and you are up to the task, you should just completely replace them. In the end it is far better, and actually easier to do than repairing. I am a wood and no foam guy. You should start reading some of the current threads in the maintenance section. Search out the Pumpkin Patch thread, Bills Boatworks, Akabullas thread, Okie Boarders, there are lots of them that will give you good guidance. I am on my second project at the moment and have acquired all my knowledge through this site alone. Plan on $2000, 200 hours, and if you imbibe, 20 cases to get through the job. It is a labor of love with our Correct Crafts. Love them and they love you back. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 11:29am
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imbibe? thats a new one, now i can trick the wife again ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 11:40am
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Scott,
Don't try a patched up/scabbed job. When you get into removing all the wood, you will find lots more rot. Do it all. Read everything you can here on site on the stringer replacement. Composite or wood is your choice but I would trust the composite job threads here more than something you saw on youtube. Welcome and now that you're getting used to the computer posting, we need some pictures!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 1:18pm
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I am a real dummy when it comes to finding pictures on my computer and posting them but if you can give me the first few steps, I will go from there. You can see the boat under the "diaries" section under the 1975 year and Skiier model for alabama. Thanks. ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 1:32pm
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Scott - It's pretty easy. 1st resize the photo on your desktop - use windows pictur manager & resize as document or email size.
Then just use the upload button in the post menu. If you load multiple pictures, press enter in between each so they line up vertically. Good luck, I am computer challenged too but am luck to have a tech savy teenager to help. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 1:45pm
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Scott,
I found your diary and took a look. Great looking boat! Have you checked the engine/prop shaft/strut alignment? The pictures we'd now like to see are some of the stringers. The boat being a 75 means it is due for a job no matter how it was taken care of through the years. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 2:29pm
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I have to completely agree with Pete, my 73 skier seemed solid and just fine until I pulled up the carpet and removable ply floor in the back. You have the right group behind you to go all the way with her! ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 2:38pm
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What a trip. I have an uncle named Scott who lives in Huntsville, AL on top of Montesano Mtn and has the same @knology.net suffix on his email... ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 3:11pm
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The good news is the two main stringers that the engine is mounted to that supports the front and rear decking is in perfect shape as far as I can tell. I had someone suggest that I go ahead with replacing the two sets of smaller stringers with pressure treated wood making sure I find some with a real tight grain pattern and orient it the proper way to make it the strongest.
Does anyone know if the smaller stringers are glassed in or are they just sitting beneath the floor and in between the areas filled with foam? I guess I will find out when I start tearing it out. Pictures coming maybe this afternoon. Thanks everyone. ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 4:07pm
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You cant use pressure treated wood. Fiberglass does not bond to it because of the chemicals used. They are glassed to the hull but not always wrapped over the top. There are a few checks to determine the condition of the main stringers. The easiest is to check the lag bolts holding the engine mounts. If you can back them out a quarter turn and then tighten them back down you are good. If they will not hold torque they are done. Half of mine spun in place when I tried to tighten them back down. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 5:29pm
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Scott,
You don't seem to get the idea that your mains have got rot in them someplace as well. Do you really want to tear up the floor, remove the foam, just put in secondaries, put the floor/carpet back in and then later need to do the primaries?? Whoever told you to use pressure treated is not the proper person to give you advice. Dump him!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 7:20pm
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I am glad to know about the possibility that pressure treated wood will not adhere to epoxy resin. I had a piece already cut out for the seat area so I may have to use another type. Thanks.
As far as the main beams go, I have banged on them with a hammer and looked them over real good and I just don't know if I want to go through all that work including removing the engine just in case. I could remove the fiberglass that is on them and see and then reglass both of them all the way down but I don't think I can remove them in this lifetime. I only use the boat about 20 hours/summer and only average 12 hours/summer since I bought it back in 1990. I just finished removing one side of the secondaries and boy was I glad I did. It had a ton of rot in them that I did not see(like you say could happen in the primaries). I used a sharp pickax and just cut them out and removed all the foam. Now I am going back outside to attempt the other side. ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 7:25pm
Why would I need to check the engine/prop shaft/strut alignment?  ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 7:29pm
Besides it being a suggested yearly maintenance item, it's a good way to keep a eye on stringer failure. If it's out, it can damage your trans. Have you ever done it or had someone do it for you in the 21 years?. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
srbranum wrote:Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 11:10pm
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No, sorry to say but I was not aware I needed to. I have the original owners manual so I will see what it says in there about it. Thanks. ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 11:33pm
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Tried to resize a picture and not having much luck downloading it in the proper format. I will keep trying. Please excuse my ignorance. ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-06-2010 at 11:45pm
No name, You can look in the manual and it may have something about alignment in it but here's a thread that's even better. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6037&KW=alignment&PID=58701&title=span-classhighlightalignment-span#58701 - Eric's alingment thread ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 1:45am
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I am going to humbly hang my head in the corner over here. If you are already under the floor, replace all the stingers. In Nov 2008 I failed to heed this advice. I do indeed feel that our Mustang will have many years left in the primary stringers, however looking back, and knowing what I know now, no question, you replace them while you are in there. It doesn't even take much more time, and no more material besides the wood. I am at peace with the decision I made, but would never do it again. Never.
Buck up and do it right the first time, Pete ain't lying. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 9:35am
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Mike,
Thanks. When I read your post, I could just sit down and  . I know I should do it but taking the engine out at this point makes me want to throw up. I just got through replacing all the wiring and I have no idea what it takes to take the engine out. Looks like you unbolt the four mounts, cut the wires, disconnect the fuel lines and separate it from the shaft. It's sitting in my workshop. If I were to do it, I would almost cut a hole in the ceiling, tie an engine hoist to the beams and lift it up a few inches before I would take it somewhere and do it. With that idea, I may not have to cut any wires.
I need any and all advice from this forum guys. Bring it on!!!!! Help me everyone before I drown myself in a puddle of tears ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 9:43am
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See my last post to Mike. You and he have good wisdom my son and should go far(did I hear that in a Chinease movie......?)
Now whether your child typing this will do what you prophesy has yet to be determined but I am listening........ ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 10:46am
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it sounds like your talking yourself out of doing a complete, which is your decision, if you sway towards a repair you have to get some support under those mounts, you have 4 mounting points, and the load could be spread out with aluminum angle over the stringers, this is temporary, I really have seen engines come loose, pulled right out of the stringers and sit at a 80 degree angle from the twist or the front of the engine real high from the outdrive thrust from the angle. its not so bad once you dig in, find a good branch and yank that engine, and go to town...after the fact you will have a sense of relief ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 11:02am
No name, I'd rather pull a engine from a boat than a car/truck. Really it's not that bad of a job. If you'd rather not go cutting a hole in the ceiling and beaming across several ceiling joists to handle the load, you may want to look for a engine hoist. I went shopping just recently to get the 1927 engine out of the back end of my Suburban. Went on line to all the normal places like Northern and Harbor but the shipping was close to the purchase price!! Then went to good old ebay and did a "purchase now" for about $180 for a folding 2 ton and the shipping was free! He had a decent stock of them so you may want to take a look. If you decide to go and put something in your ceiling, I'd go and put two lifting points in now. This way you'll be able to lift the complete boat if wanted. I do it with two 2 ton "come-a-longs". The two on the right are for spanning the joists spreading the load.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 1:10pm
Scott, I have had many, many of these moments. Especially at the idea of pulling the motor the first time. Once you do it you wlll wonder why you had the kleenex and barf pail out. All this stuff is pretty simple once you dig in. It is the idea of journeying into the unknown that makes your stomach tremble. Shortcuts are simply a bad idea. I have taken them, regretted them, and for the most part, re-done them. I just did the stringers in my 67 and really, I don't think it took any more time than doing a half assed job on the Mustang stringers. Seriously. It was way more of a pita to do a work around than just put my head down and do it all. The biggest driver for me was the pressure of wanting/needing to get the boat out in the Spring. This clouded my judgement. Again, it really doesn't take more time. You just think it will without having done it. Ideally, you want to start this at the end of the season so you have a full winter to get it done. If youhave to do it now, give it h3ll and get her done before summer comes. We will all help you through the fire. Pete will even stop calling you no name if you update your profile. Mike ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 2:08pm
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Mike,
I did it again!!  I forgot Scott signed his first post! Sorry Scott.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skfitz
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 2:09pm
His name is Scott, he's 49 years old. At least that what the first post in this thread says. |
Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 2:29pm
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Scott,
Listen to these guys. They know what they're talking about. I'll tell you there were a lot of places on my stringers that "SEEMED" solid. Once I cut them out I found out the wood was dry rot and kind of in one piece, but it isn't what I would consider solid. I took my boat to a local boat repair shop to pull the engine and put it on a crate. He charged me $100. I'll do the same thing to put it back in. As far as wood is concerned, I've been using Doug Fir lumber and plywood. My Supra is a little different layout than the Correct Crafts, but You can get some good ideas on how to put the wood in on mine. Each of my stringers were about $20. I'll spend ~$40 on the cross bracing. The plywood was ~$130. The compostie materials will last forever, but they're cost is pretty high. That's why I decided to just go wood. |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 7:39pm
Ok, I give, Uncle,................Went out to my boat a minute ago and finished taking out the remaining secondary stringers. I got a big hammer and tapped on the primary stringers. The area behind the engine sounds different than the area in front of the engine which tells me something is wrong or they should sound the same. I called my brother who runs a repair shop and he said I could borrow one of their two engine hoists for as long as I needed so I am probably going to take the engine out  and replace the primary stringers.
Ok, the next big question is what do I use to cut them out? A chain saw or what else? Seems like all I have to do is score the fiberglass on each side of the beam and out she comes. I am going to need a bunch of advise so I hope you guys don't mind me bugging you to death. I would love to post some pictures but I tried once and failed. It said it was not in a jpg form and still too big. Do you or anybody else have some step by step instructions my simple mind could follow to post pictures? Thank you so much for taking the time to help me. Forgot to mention that the reason I am trying to do this as quick as possible is that my 9 year old son is pretty good at wakeboarding and I will feel terrible if I can't get this done by the middle of May. scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 7:44pm
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By the way, one of the reasons I try and take so good care of this boat is that I had a guy last year offer me $10,000 for it while skiing one day. The previous high offer I had before that was $8700(It cost $5500 brand new in 1975) but its not for sale for twice the offer. I want to keep it as original as possible and its a joy to ride. Sounds like two Harley Davidson's on the water!!! Nothing like it first thing in the morning.
scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 8:01pm
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Scott,
(See guys I got it this time!!) Many have tried different methods of cutting but I think the best is a cheap diamond blade in a 4 & 1/2" right angle grinder. When you get some time, Try out the search feature some more here on site an take a look at some of the stringer threads. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 8:21pm
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Guess what I just found? The beam between two of the engine mounts is totally rotten. Do you remember an old Andy Griffith show when Andy walked into Wally's filling station and found some smoldering oil rags in a barrel and Gomer was asleep? Gomer kept saying over and over again........."You know what you just gone and did? You saved my life is what you done".
Thanks to you and everyone else for convincing me to go all the way. scott  ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 11:01pm
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I am in the middle of a stringer job and used a 4.5 inch angle grinder with a diamond wheel that I bought from harbor freight for $10. Like you said, score it through the glass right to the wood and with a little prying or whacks with a hammer the stringers come out easily. Try to get at least one of each out in a whole piece for a template.
Use Douglas Fir lumber and treat it all with CPES. Pulling the engine is really easy. You have five wires to disconnect. Wiring harness, positive, negative, throttle, and shifter cables, and that sucker comes right out. You will be here in no time  ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 11:19pm
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Wow, that looks real similar to mine. I bought a grinder as well and everything you said is right up my alley. I will take note of your post.
Can you tell me: How much epoxy and hardner will I have to buy for an area approximately 12'X4' including the amount for the stringers and floor? Where can I buy the wood you suggested? What weight of fiberglass cloth are you going to use for the stringers and the floor? What are you going to put in the areas between the stringers and the side of the boat where, in my case, foam used to be? Help me out on posting pictures if you can. I am not a very good computer person Thanks and I will be talking to you soon I am sure. Scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-07-2010 at 11:21pm
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By the way, what does CPES stand for? ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 12:13am
Scott 1) Epoxy = 10 gallons 2) Douglas Fir 3) I used 6 oz tapes, and 17oz biaxial 4) Pool noodles! You best get cracking if you want to be done by mid May! Truthfully, that is pretty optimistic, but if get help and stay at it, it is possible. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: pwningjr
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 12:25am
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CPES is Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (Did I get it right?) ------------- Jay "Proud to be a geek" Big Heavy (stephan): One can't always be perfect when water dancing on your shred stick. |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 12:30am
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wakeslayer,
I can see where my old floor layed across the main and secondary stringers and supported by the foam but how is the new floor supported by pool noodles? When it comes time to put the floor in, would I just lay out the biaxial(soaked) and pour on the epoxy? Seeems like it would just be uneven and even collapse. thanks, scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 1:03am
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There are 2 schools of thinking. If you re-foam the boat, you make the floor out of thick fiberglass laying on top of the foam. If you opt out of refoaming which most will suggest, but not all, you will use a plywood floor with a thinner layer of glass over it. bonding to the hull. I am going for plywood and no foam, except for in the bow, where there was more than enough foam to float the boat long enough to save it.
The pool noodles Mike suggested are for extra flotation without foaming, and not to support the floors. You have to create some ribs to support the plywood at the edges. This is a big debate amongst rebuilders. To foam or not to foam? That is the question... ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 1:21am
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When it comes to sizing your picture- the easiest thing to do is to set your digital camera to take the lowest resolution pictures it can. These will be perfect for the internet. It makes the file size small and the image the right size for a computer screen. Pictures taken on a 5 megapixel camera at full resolution are way too big for a computer screen but make nice crisp prints. So reduce the resolution on your camera to low and you should be good to go for posting pics. Way faster and easier than cropping and resizing images.
CCF gives you 10 mb of storage space. To get there click on "forums", then click on "member control panel". Then "file manager" Then "New Upload". Click "browse" find the image on your computer and upload it. Click on the image to open the file from the ccf website. Copy the web address out of the browser. Now open your thread and go to the latest post. Click on the reply icon that looks like an arrow pointing up at a 45. This will give you a few more icons. Click on the icon that looks like a tree and paste the web address that you copied earlier and wa la. Picture. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 10:26am
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I tend to favor the idea of foam and just put everything back the way it came from the factory. My question would be, why do I read members saying "No foam, No foam?". We are trying to keep these boats orginal, right?
My other thought with the plywood is doable. I built and hunt in a handmade layout boat I built from stratch using thin luan overlayed with epoxy resin and fiberglass cloth and it turned out great. Doing it this way and using the pool noodles would seem to be less sturdy than foam and a heavy fiberglass cloth but like you say, some like it one way and some like it the other way. What does everyone else say, foam or plywood? ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 10:45am
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Every one else will say foam or plywood, split about 50/50.
Not trying to be glib, but this is an endless debate! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 10:47am
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Scott,
I'm one of the no foam and plywood guys. I've seen too much damage done to stringers/wood when the foam gets wet. Now, you will be doing a stringer job way beyond what the factory did plus with epoxy resin so foaming really shouldn't come to play. Still, I'd go no foam with plenty of drainage built into the new stringer system. If you want to through some pool noodles in there that's fine but you can also add foam in places other than the bilge. You should find foam from the factory under the decks and gunwales. This can be added to. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 11:16am
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Is it Pete?
Well, I read something else in your last post to me. Drainage built in to the stringer system? Am I supposed to put some holes somewhere or what are you talking about? Sounds like a great idea as long as the drainge holes are coated with epoxy to there is no chance of water touching the wood. Going to my brothers today to get his engine lift. Bought the angle cutter and diamond blade last night. Should have the engine out and the primaries out this week. I will probably go ahead and order the epoxy today which will hurt . I forgot who told me about 9 gallons worth, just don't want to order too much. I have great luck using www.raka.com. and dealing with larry the owner. He knows everything about boatbuilding supplies. Don't know where to buy the Douglas Fir but may have a contact that deals in speciality woods near me.
Thanks for helping me out. Do ya'll ever swap telephone numbers or do we just use the site for everything? Working on the picture problem thanks to Keeganino. Later ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 12:07pm
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To read more about drainage between stringers and some great general rebuild info check out Tim's thread. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16014&PN=3&title=another-bfn-rebuild - Another BFN Rebuild Tim takes things to the next level!
People do communicate outside of the site. I am not the best person to talk to though since I am so new to all this and probably have as many questions as you do. All of my knowledge so far has come from this site. Read as much as you can. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 12:30pm
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Scott,
The drainage holes are actually half round cut outs in the bottom of the stringers. Yes, they do get glassed. The easy way is to glass the half rounds before you set the stringers in the boat. Do some searching and reading on the stringer threads. I feel you'll find it interesting plus lots of information/details. Yes, it's Pete! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 12:40pm
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Talked with Woody at Mastercraft of Orlando(The former Southeast Correct Craft on Orange Avenue)this morning.
He knows everything there is to know about my boat and has worked there for 35 years and remembers when my boat was built. He made a couple of suggestions or things to do: 1. Make sure my boat is supported underneath before I take out the primary stringers. If not, the hull could bend and warp after putting in the new stringers. He said if my boat is on the original correct craft trailer(which it is), it should be fine. 2. Douglas Fir is the only option for the primary stringers. Called a local place and they can orger it for about $6-$7/linear foot(That hurts$$$$$). 3. He said the secondary stringers did not have to be Douglas Fir as they just support the floor. 4. He would go with replacing the void area with foam for the support factor BUT he said it was really, really, really expensive which scares me to death based on what I took out of there. Who can tell me where to buy this stuff and how much does it cost? 5. He said most people just cut the top of the stringer off or the fiberglass at the least and just pull the beams out. Then you can cut out the remaing fiberglass and grind the rest off. 6. He and Larry from RAKA.com seem to think 3-4 gallons would do the whole project. With my limited knowledge and ya'lls input, I think that is on the low side. 7. He suggested 3/4" plywood for the seating area and behind the engine. Anybody want to comment on these items? Off to get the engine hoist. I heard it will be a bear to get out of my truck at the house. Going to adjust my camera to send you guys some pictures. I work at night(18yrs driving for FEDEX) and my wife if a CPA and two kids under 10 so I have to adjust everything to fit a hectic schedule. Us poor truck drivers have a hard time paying for these things nowadays...... ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 1:20pm
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Scott,
Read through http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15123&title=okie-boarders-floor-and-stringer-replacement - my thread . You can see some of the techniques I used that may be helpful. Eventhough we have different sized and brand boats, a lot will transfer over. Look at the other threads, too. Take a couple evenings and do nothing but read through. There's a couple of really good threads that will be more specific to your boat layout. Here's a few things based on your comments an questions... I used a sawzall for my cutting. Supporting the boat is a good thing. My trailer supports most of it, but I blocked it up in a few spots, mostly along the edges. My grinding I've done with a 4" grinder, mostly with 24 grit sanding discs (although I did try the flapper discs too). Look around on the Doug Fir. I'm surprised you don't have a lumber yard that stocks it. I got mine for less than $2 a foot. Even at the price ou were quoted, it doesn't sound to awful bad. You can see how I added drainage to mine in the main stringers and the cross supports. M floor is being done with plywood laid over the stringers. Late 80's Supras were originally built that way as opposed to the design of the early CC's with the fiberglass just laid on the foam. If I was you, I'd plan to build it that way. That would be conducive to foam or not and you can make the decision later. Personally, I'm going to foam, but I'm laying in a plastic sheeting when I pour the foam so it won't adhere to my framework and will be a "floating" block inside the compartment. On the glass, I'm using 1708 biaxial. I did a layup schedule that just lays and entire cap layer over the stringer to the floor. I did two layers on each stringer, each successive layer with more overlap onto the hull than the other. I used 6" biaxial tape for the cross supports, then I'm laying a layer over the top down to the hull to cap them. The floor will have the 6" biaxial tape to adhere the edges all along the hull and the bilge area. Then the floor will get one layer of mat and one layer of 6oz cloth to finish it off. I've gotten 20 yds of biaxial so far and I can see where I need a bit more. I'm probably going to end up at 25 yds. Based on my estimations I'll end up at 75 yds of biaxial tape. I have figured out the mat and cloth yet. I've gone through 6 gallons of epoxy so far and feel like I'll probably end up using 15 gallons altogether. Filler comes into play too for mixing up the thickened epoxy which you'll use to bed the stringers. I used cabosil and glass bubbles for bedding and filleting. I have been getting all my supplies from U.S. Composites. |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 5:35pm
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UPDATE: Pulled the engine out by myself this morning in 2.5 hours and is sitting on blocks in the garage. Now I can remove the primaries and start spending money$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 5:47pm
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I cannot figure out how you are going to get away with 3-4 gallons of eopxy. There are little epoxy gremlins that come in the middle of the night and have little gloo keggers. I went through 5 gallons before I had the first primary biaxed in. If I am lucky, I will get done with 10 gallons, but it will be close. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 6:00pm
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Mike,
I feel it's all that biax your using to build that Norwegian ice breaker that's drinking up all the resin!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 6:02pm
Whoever thinks this project will only consume 3-4 gallons has a serious misunderstanding of the scope of the job that is involved. Thats assuming you do a proper layup, as documented by many on here. 8-10 gallons on a boat that size should be about right. Of course, if you cut the number of courses for the stringers in half, dont coat everything in resin beforehand, and dont glass the floor in, you can probably do it with 3-4. ------------- |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 6:07pm
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^^agreed^^.
Pete, there will be no winter layup with that thing, I am going to put a circulating heat pump on the cooling system, and magnetic block heaters on the exhaust manifolds. As long as I plug her in overnight, I can go bash a lane in the lake in January. Ice Shmice !! ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 6:27pm
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WOW..this stringer thread is really flying!!! 2 pages in only 2 days and not a sigle picture yet!!!(of the boat in question)
Nice sequence Keegan´s ´73, cslaten? 74 and now this 75... nice for sharing good advice!!! ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 7:14pm
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Those against foam say no foam because it tends to be the source of absorbing water, adding excessive weight to the boat when wet, and causing rot.
My thoughts are: 1) Every stringer job I've seen has been far better than factory. Fully encapsulating the wood, using epoxy resin, etc. No one I've seen do a stringer job has used staples to hold anything together (as did the factory), and most try to minimize or elimate screws. Those that do have screw holes shoot some CPES to stop or at least mimize rot in those areas. 2) My 1982 SN was abused. Left out in the rain. Left with standing water in it, etc. etc. Even with questionable orginal contstruction, FOAM, and this abuse, the original stringers lasted for 24 years. 3) Assuming I do just a little bit better job than the factory, assuming I actually take care of the boat, and assuming I actually keep the boat for that long, I have to think my stringer repair job will last more than 30 years. 4) In thirty years, I'll be 76 5) I'm foaming as original. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: FrankT
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 7:36pm
My general question about glassing the primary & secondary stringers is what is enough? 10 mils, 20 mils, 200 mils? By my math one gallon total mixed should give me over 20 mil thickness on the primary/secondaries. FrankT |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 7:42pm
I feel like i totally neglected my boat..mine only took 17 to rot away  ..ha I think the factor that it actually sank helped the rot to accelerate its process....Next time it sinks (i hope not) i will put the cost of the rebuilt to the insurance claim....
------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 7:54pm
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The tops of my primaries have one layer of 6 oz tape, and one layer of 17oz biax in the front and rear, that measures 3/32" from well behind the trans mounts to well fore of the motor mounts, I added a second layer of 17oz biax, that measures a tall 1/8" thick. This is from memory, but I believe this is correct. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: FrankT
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 9:15pm
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Are you thicker at the midpoint, under the engine? I think 1/8" is 125 mils, correct?
FrankT |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 9:17pm
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deleted? ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 9:18pm
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Still too big. I will try some more. How can I delete these? ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 9:20pm
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Hit post options on the right corner of your post. You can Delete or modify from there.
BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-08-2010 at 10:21pm
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Thanks.
I may need to talk to somebody on the phone about how to work this website and what everything means or my project will be finished by the time I figure it out. I will try again in the morning when I am off work and see if I can get some pictures again. Sorry everyone, be patient with me. scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 1:27pm
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Scott,
If you want, I can help you. You can email me the pictures and I'll set up a photobucket account for you t host them through and post them on here. What program opens your photos to view them on your computer? |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 2:56pm
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My camera is an olympus 10mp but we use a nikon view picture program if that's what you are asking. I had a guy over at my house a minute ago and showed me a few things that may help. Do I need your email address to send you the pictures or is it somewhere on this website?
Thanks, scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 3:10pm
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Have another question everyone.
I have called a ton of places where I live asking for doug fir beams. Everyone says they will have to order it and it will cost a ton($150-$200 for two beams not counting the secondary stringers). More than one said spruce is just as good and if its not going to be seen, it should be fine. Can I substitute spruce for doug fir? Question #2: Does anyone know what width of primary to buy? If I could send a picture, the beam underneath the gas tank rises above the heighth of the rest of the stringer running up towards the front of the boat. Looks like I would need to buy a 2"X10X12' with the majority of beam cut down to slightly under 7". I hope I am explainging this correctly. Question 3: I know I am putting plywood underneath the seats and behind the engine but the areas beside the engine and covering the foam filled void areas is in question. I was thinking about using real thin luan plywood and covering it with fiberglass and resin. I am guessing this area was sprayed with layer after layer of fiberglass from the factory which I obviously can't do now. Any suggestions? Got to go to sleep now. Hope to hear from you guys on these questions. I hope to get you some pictures with help offered by Okie boarder. scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 3:25pm
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#3 sevaral ways to go...you can go the way it came from factory,..lay all the stringers, and fill all the voids with foam, then level it the the striger heigth..put the ply in the front section and then cover all ply and foam with glass. You can also go with ply all over the floor using this method but instead of glassing over the foam you lay the ply and the galss it over.
Or you can set all the ply before foaming and the drill holes in the floor and inject the foam there and then cover all with glass. If you go with the ply check striger height...as you don´t want to end up with a taller floor and then not beig able to alling the engine to the shaft... Also with the ply before putting it over the stringers coat it with cpes and glass in the inner face...you dan´t wan´t your job to rot from the inside if some water makes it there eventually ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 3:32pm
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Scott,
SPF aka: spruce, pine fir (not doug fir) is not the same. Not in the same strength class. I've mentioned this before but a good example as to the strength is to look at constuction framing charts. SPF isn't in the same span/lb per sq. foot catagory for roof or floor joists. Keep looking. What part of the country are you in? For the secondaries, the SPF is fine. The raised area of the stringers aft for the tank can be added on. You don't need to get the 2x wide enough to make it out of 1 piece. We've got to get you to take some time and read some other threads. Don't worry about sleeping!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 3:33pm
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Scott,
Measure you stringer again. Totally different boat, but mine was 153". I had to buy 8/4x8"x13', and had it planed to 1.5". You can add the gas tank support after the fact. I would try and seek out doug fir, Pete can explain it better than I. I paid $140 per stringer, planed and delivered. Probably high, but only one wholesaler had anything that would work for me. Edit: Pete beat me to it. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 3:39pm
yes all the info is here with lots of different set up. composite material instead of wood.. And some using no foam or alternate materials for flotation purposes..Like using pool noodles ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 6:39pm
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Scott,
I sent you an email through here. email me some pictures, I'll resize them and send them back, as well as post them on here for you. |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 6:56pm
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This is where you go for your lumber if you are having a hard time finding it in Huntsville. Lots of people on this site have purchased from there. Make a Sunday drive out of it.
http://www.sweetwaterlumber.com/softwood.htm - Sweetwater Lumber ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 7:23pm
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To Pete and Everyone else who has commented on this topic:
I just wanted to stop and take a minute to personally thank EVERYONE who is taking their personal and valuable time to help me with this project. You guys are very unselfish and generous to offer your expertise to someone you have never met but I just want you to know I sincerely appreciate it and am taking all advice as the Gospel! Second, I want everyone to know a little bit about my schedule because if I can't take action on something or throw out excuses, it's for a valid reason sometimes. I drive a big rig for Fedex monday-thursday between Huntsville and Memphis 400 miles per night leaving my house at 6:30 at night and returning at 8:30 in the morning, my wife is a CPA and that needs no explanation this time of year and I have two kids under 10 involved in everything. I have to get enough sleep or I could easily fall asleep at the wheel at night so on some days, I would'nt feel like going to the lottery board and pick up my check if I won. Please keep sending any and all comments as they are sincerly appreciated and excuse my ingnorace when it comes to technology and doing things in a timely matter scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 7:40pm
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get some rest my friend!!!
we want you to finish this project the right way!!! ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 8:09pm
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keegan,
Thanks for the info for Sweetwater. I called them and they can get me whatever I want. I have a question for you and anyone else with an opinion: John at Sweetwater says he can get me what he called a vertical grain or a mixed grain piece. The vertical grain is twice the price as the mixed grain but of course is the better quality. It is about $100/piece(I need 2ea.) or $200. The mixed grain of Doug Fir is $111 or two pieces. It's about a three hour drive each way to pick it up and $75 in gas. I may have another option locally so that's not out of the question. CAN I USE THE LOWER GRADE DOUG FIR ON THIS PROJECT? Thanks, scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 8:21pm
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Scott,
You are resurrecting a boat that has some decent value, especially to you. You are going to spend between $800-1500 on epoxy, glass, misc parts, then more on carpet, etc. I don't see saving $100 on lesser grade wood to be a worthwhile place to skimp. Done right, you are never going to see it again and the boat will give you and your family hundreds if not thousands of hours of priceless family fun. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 8:23pm
------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 8:28pm
------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 8:37pm
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You must get a fedex discount. Any way to have one of your compadres pick up the wood on a run?
The straight grain fir tends to be a straighter piece of wood as well. It will also have very few knots. You could go with less expensive lumber on the secondaries, but if it were mine, and in fact I'm in the middle of a stringer job myself, I would buy the good stuff for your primary stringer. Measure 3 or 4 times before you cut. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 8:46pm
You guys amaze me how much smarter you are than me! Keep it coming. ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 8:47pm
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Scott,
Here are your pictures. It looks like you already figured out the resizing. They all appear to be 640 x 480. I put a folder in my photobucket account. If you have trouble figuring out how to post them, just send them to me and I'll put them in the folder and post them for you. 
|
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 9:06pm
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Andy,
Thanks for the help. I will study on everything you said as well as others and do the best I can. Got to eat dinner and go to work. Scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 9:46pm
Scott, Thanks much I'm sure from all of us. I really feel the CCfan group is unlike any other you will find. It's more family than anything. When you get that boat done or even if you don't, you really should try to make it to one of the reunions and meet some of the group in person plus have a great time. (bring the whole family) Regarding the straight vertical grain Doug fir, I hate to contradict others but considering you're getting it from Sweetwater even the lesser always looked fantastic. Greg (BuffalowBFN) was the first to discover them and I don't believe he went with the straight vertical grain. Greg, tell me if I'm wrong. The vertical grain means it slightly stronger because all the grain runs pretty much in the same direction. It's hand selected from the outside of the log sort of like quarter sawn is from the center. If you look at Keegans pictures of his stringers, his Doug fir isn't the vertical grain and it still looks great. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: March-09-2010 at 10:53pm
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Can't see a lot of the boat, but what I can see looks to be in very good condition. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 2:30pm
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To anybody:
I am up under the dash taking out foam. I thought the two primary stringers ended there just before the floor rises to the area where the air intake comes in from the bow. Before I go any further, how far past the hump or incline do the beams go and would I have to cut that hump out to remove them? Also, buying the doug fir is a real hassle around here. Super expensive and nobody wants to discuss it. Sweetwater has helped a lot and I may have to to get it myself. Any commments? I know I should read threads but I am doing pretty well this morning and do not want to stop. scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 2:37pm
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The stringers will only extend a few inches past the footrest hump. Some people cut it out completely and reglass it in afterwards. I laid all new glass on my Ski Tique (same hull as your Skier). Removing it also made the foam removal much easier.
Other options to consider for stringers would be LVL (microlam) beams, or composites like Coosa. For just the stringers alone, I think you could come close to the price for wood (~$250 per 4x8 sheet of 1/2"), but theres a little more work involved since the mains would need to be laminated together with 3 layers before installing. The stringers would never rot, though! Check out threads by JoeinNY and lfskizzer to see what is involved. Im rebuilding a BFN with Coosa right now as well- but Im not very far along with the rebuild. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 2:41pm
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Scott, The stringers don't go very much past the kick panel.
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/1765/77-new-stringers.jpg - similar stringers ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:42pm
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Keegan,
Did you or do you intend to leave that lip that runds around the inside of the hull where the floor met the wall or are you going to grind it off? Also, do I try and grind or pry up all the old fiberglass in the floor area? I noticed yours does not appear to have any left and looks copper in color. Thanks, scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:54pm
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Scott, you'll want to grind the gelcoat off the bilge anywhere new glass will be laid. New glass will stick to the old glass much better than the old gel, which is brittle.
I suggested to Keegan that he leave the lip from the original floor on while he rebuilds the stringers. It will be a good guide when trying to get the stringers level. If going with a wood floor, there may be no harm in leaving a small lip to lend some support... though I plan to remove everything on my Skier and BFN, just like I did on my Ski Tique. Sometimes its just easier to start fresh, rather than match the old. ------------- |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 8:47pm
|
Here ye here ye!!!
OMG!!! The area under the dash was so much fun I wish I had another boat to do it over again. I have some more questions as usual: 1. Why are the end of the primary stingers under the dash rotten as well as the small vertical piece of wood sittting on top of the stringer? I would think this area is the safest of all from rot. 2. Ended up pulling out the three ventilation hoses from the air scoop on the bow. I guess I will buy new hoses and foam it back in. 3. I was looking at the sides of the hull inside the boat and the little lip that is left over from taking the floor out seems to be one big piece of fiberglass laid on top of the gelcoat hull. Does everybody leave this in(I hope)? 4. About the best I could come up with on the Douglas Fir is $211+$68gas+$50 to finish the wood to a smooth surface and about 7hours of my time. I don't know why but this part of the project really gets under my collar. 5. What do you guys call the foam that you put everywhere and where would I begin to look for it locally? I had a insulation guy reblow our attice this year and they mentioned that they spray something similiar to this between the walls for insulation. I wonder if I should call them and see what it is and could I buy some. TRBeng, tell me one more time about the areas NOT associated with fiberglassing the stringers related to gelcoat or grinding it off. Should I try to make the whole bottom of the boat the same or just focus on the areas that the stringers sit on? I am going to make a template based on the footprint of the engine and take a lot of other measurements to make sure I put the engine back in exactly where it was or as close as humanly possible. Ya'll please give me some feedback. Scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 8:51pm
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4. Me too, but it is what it is, dude. You will find plenty of other stuff to piss you off soon. Like grinding. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 9:38pm
You would be correct my friend. Any comments?  ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 9:44pm
|
Pete,
Sorry, these pictures were in response to your comment on page 3. I found the manual to my camera. Ya'll are going to get a bunch of pictures now that I know how to send them. Off to work in the rain tonight! BTW, I am about at $900 right now which includes two primaries, 6 gallon's of epoxy, tools and supplies and some fiberglass cloth. Will probably buy my next batch of cloth on Ebay.......great deals on it there. ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 10:21pm
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US Composites is about as good as it is going to get. Plus they offer free tech advice. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 10:50pm
|
problem in the bow is that they put that wire hose ain't that hard and then it was foam over..if any hole was there..water entering trough the vent system due to a nose dive will end up in the foam instead of going to the bilge..thats why guy here put PVC pipes instead of putting that wire vynil hose back again!!! ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 11:45pm
that makes perfect sense to me. What kind of pvc do I use? Something flexable I suppose. Will see you in the morning, got to start driving now. scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: March-10-2010 at 11:56pm
|
The foam is closed cell foam. It is somewhat water resistant, but will soak it up if soaked for long enough. You can buy it at US composites, or lots of other places online. Usually, you use 2 lb foam.
Replace the dryer ven hoses with PVC plumbing pipe Just by it at lowe's or wherever. a few elbows and 45s and you are there. You may want to run soft hose from the bow vent to the point on the floor where your PVC will pope through the floor, but definitely use PVC under the floor. Don't sweat the wood, you'll get over it. Just measure three or 4 times before you cut. You will be really PO'd if you cut one wrong and have to do it over again. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 12:01am
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scott you really need to read some of the other threads but here it the set up i mean with the pipes
http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9543&KW=pumpkin&PN=18&title=weeding-the-pumpkin-patch - weeding the pumpkin patch this one of the best documented threads in this site!!! ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 11:07am
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I used a thin walled gray PVC on the Mustang. I have a piece in my shop I can get the schedule # off for you. It is way lighter than the thick walled white stuff.
It has been mentioned repeatedly to go dig up stringer threads. I know you are busy and feel under the gun, but the time you take to read these project journals will be returned to you as you work through this task. I guarantee it will save you some headaches. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 12:57pm
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I agree with Kap and Mike. Read, read, read. I admire the tenacity with which youre tackling this project, but I would highly recommend you slow down a bit and come up to speed on the methods and materials involved. There is a TON of information on this site, and it covers everything from hull prep, material selection, tricks and tips, etc. I have restored several of these boats from the hull up, and even with my latest project ( http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16014 - Another BFN Rebuild ) but I have spent countless hours planning. I expect the rebuild to go much more smoothly because of it. You dont need to take it as far as I did, but having a good plan in place before you proceed will pay dividends in the end.
A few quick comments though: 1. Remove every last bit of foam from the boat. Even the stuff way up in the bow up high was soaking wet on my Ski Tique. 2. I highly doubt I will refoam a boat like it came from the factory. Even with improved methods and materials, water will find its way in. This is a hotly contested topic, so inform yourself before deciding which way to proceed. 3. Getting rid of all the gel in the bilge is a good way to go, but grinding does suck. At least get rid of it everywhere where you'll be laying new fiberglass (along the stringers, etc). Gel is brittle, so bonding directly to glass instead will produce a stronger structure. 4. You'll want to address the weak points of the factory design in your rebuild. This starts with better materials (epoxy, for example) but you can also beef up certain problem areas. This includes weak bulkheads, poorly sealed drains- like the battery box, leaky vent hoses- replace with pvc or similar like was mentioned, sealing up all screw holes with epoxy or 5200, etc. 5. Save some budget for other "while Im in there" costs. Things like replacing the bilge pump hose, new control and/or steering cables, fuel lines, etc, are easy to replace with the boat disassembled. You'll need new flooring too- carpet, vinyl or otherwise. ------------- |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: March-11-2010 at 7:19pm
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Hello everyone,
I will probably not be able to use our computer for at least a couple of days due to maintenance. I read some of the threads today like everyone has told me to do but can I just ask one more teeny, wheeny question before I unplug it at 5:00? Apparently there are two grades of doug fir. One has vertical grain structure and is twice the price of the other which has a horizontal grain structure. I have called lumber companies until my thumb is sore looking for this and will probably buy from Sweetwater in Austell Georgia monday as suggested on this forum. I have to go there anyway as it is the only source in the area so does anyone know why I should definitely buy the more expensive grade($115ea.) or could I go with the other which is half the price? If nobody will see it in my lifetime and it is epoxied and soaked in resin, does it really make that much difference? They told me I would need to have it plained as well which is another $50. Any responses before I turn this off at 5:00? You guys have not been wrong yet so I will go with what you say. Hopefully I will be back in touch soon. scott ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |