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351 Dolley???

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19845
Printed Date: June-08-2024 at 8:13pm


Topic: 351 Dolley???
Posted By: WOFTAM
Subject: 351 Dolley???
Date Posted: October-28-2010 at 3:09pm
Well, I guess I have a stringer job on my hands. I will post pics soon. In the mean time, I need to pull the engine and tranny. I have searched but not found anything specific about a frame that could be used to place the engine and tranny on while I complete this task. My main questions surrounds the weight (is 600# approximate enough for a 351W and velvet drive 1:1 ?)

Are 2X6s vertically strong enough or should I go 4X4? Any ideas, diagrams, pics would be much appreciated!

Thanks

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Just because you can does not mean you should.



Replies:
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: October-28-2010 at 4:23pm
2x6s or 4x4s are strong enough DON'T set the engine on the oil pan! If the exhaust manifolds and risers are still on the engine it IS very top heavy. Find a safe spot for it so not to knock it over.

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- waterdog -

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique



Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: October-29-2010 at 8:12pm
I had one shipped to me on a pallet with a 2x6 frame. Remove engine and tranny as one with the engine mounts attached and bolt it to the frame. engine alone is tippy as stated above.

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: October-29-2010 at 9:13pm
Why not just get one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-stand-32916.html - Engine Stand

Not as cheap as wood, but I would think a lot safer...

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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-30-2010 at 2:10am
Originally posted by skutsch skutsch wrote:

Why not just get one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-stand-32916.html - Engine Stand

Not as cheap as wood, but I would think a lot safer...

Because that attaches to the engine... where do you put the tranny? Besides, Im not sure I would put much faith in a Harbor Freight tool.

A square frame of 2x's is cheap, easy, and safe. Ive done it several times without issue. Just space the sides 20" apart for the mounts to sit on and youre golden. Make the whole thing long enough to clear the oil pan and transmission... somewhere around 4' should do it. I generally use 2x8's or 2x10's, but 2x6's would probably work too. Once the engine is sitting on the stand, put a few nails through the mount holes to keep it in place.

If you want to make it portable, put some wheel dollies under the front and back.

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Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: October-30-2010 at 3:46am
I liked the $90 frieght on the $50 stand.

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: October-30-2010 at 11:20am
Originally posted by OverMyHead OverMyHead wrote:

I liked the $90 frieght on the $50 stand.


That is pretty funny! We have them all over the WI, so freight usually isn't an issue.

I stay away from their "tools" but I have found for stands and carts and those kind of things, they are a decent buy.

I guess, admittedly, I have not done a lot of boat engine work, but I mess around a lot with my neighbor on his hot rods. He runs a blown 460 in a model A, so we are always yanking that engine to "refresh" it. We have mated up the trans to the engine on his stand (now granted, its not from Harbor Freight) and it doesn't sit like that for long, but I see your point if your not working on it, just as easy to set it on some 2x6's, etc.

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Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: October-30-2010 at 12:15pm
Go to Home depot and buy one of these (I used 2 for my Hemi but that weighs about 1200)



for $20 and a 8' 2x10.   Build yourself a box to simulate stringers, screw the box right to the dolly from the bottom and just drop the motor and trans on it resting on the motor mounts. You may have to rip the rear 2x10 down to clear the trans/oil pan. It will roll around ok (harder wheels would be better) but for about $30 you've got your engine dolly. Cover it up and roll it out of the way for a few months.

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-30-2010 at 12:56pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

   Im not sure I would put much faith in a Harbor Freight tool.

.


Not bad advice but I do have 2 of the stands shown and they seem to handle a small block ford without much of an issue. I agree with the wooden carts to handle an engine and trans.. I have done the same. For storage of an engine only you can typically find something similar to http://www.amazon.com/1000lb-Capacity-Engine-Cradle-Dolly/dp/B000SYODOW - this dolly in the 20-25 dollar range at one of the bigger automotive swap meets or shows. Sadly I have had the 302 from my 67 mustang on one of those for 3 or 4 years now..

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1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
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Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: October-30-2010 at 1:35pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

Go to Home depot and buy one of these (I used 2 for my Hemi but that weighs about 1200)



for $20 and a 8' 2x10.   Build yourself a box to simulate stringers, screw the box right to the dolly from the bottom and just drop the motor and trans on it resting on the motor mounts. You may have to rip the rear 2x10 down to clear the trans/oil pan. It will roll around ok (harder wheels would be better) but for about $30 you've got your engine dolly. Cover it up and roll it out of the way for a few months.


That's the best idea.

I had a 5.0 EFI motor and tranny on one of those for a few years.   I made a box like Alan suggested and it worked great. In a pinch, and if your neck is red, an old tire or 2 will work as well for a cradle.

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78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
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Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: October-31-2010 at 11:45am
Thanks for the replies guys. I got the stand built yesterday. Pics to follow. I hope to pluck her out today. I am removing a trailer wheel to drop the trailer down a few inches to be sure that I clear the boat when the engine is on the cherry picker.

Thanks again

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Just because you can does not mean you should.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-31-2010 at 12:11pm
No wheels and certainly not the weight of a big V8 but it doesn't take much to support a engine. You can run them on these wood cradles as well. All the weight is vertical. Think about what the engine sits on in the boat. Pretty much the same and lots more stress!!



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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: October-31-2010 at 12:25pm
That's pretty much the idea Pete, now drop it on the dolly and you can move it around the shop pretty easily.

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-31-2010 at 2:47pm
normally i will band the complete engine and trans package to a small 4 wheel cart also and run them. this includes manifolds as well, I will put a piece of 3/4 ply on it also to spread the weight more evenly. makes it very nice to roll them around the shop. again i always gauge these engine packages as 4, 200 pound guys, when you look at it that way it doesnt quite seem as drastic

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: October-31-2010 at 11:05pm
Here is what I have come up with. I had the base from an old outboard stand I used to hold a 90 HP outboard. I set up the engine stand this afternoon but had to abort the removal of the engine when the goblins started showing up at my house expecting candy. Maybe tomorrow...

PS Thanks for the help!




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Just because you can does not mean you should.


Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: November-02-2010 at 9:00am
Hay Pete! whats that motor for? is that handle a crank on back for starting. way cool.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-02-2010 at 9:25am
Originally posted by connorssons connorssons wrote:

Hay Pete! whats that motor for? is that handle a crank on back for starting. way cool.

Jeff,
You must have missed my rebuild thread. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16350&KW=sucker&PID=194065&title=no-super-span-classhighlightsucker-span-needed#194065 - No super sucker needed It's going in a 1918 launch that's due for restoration in my new shop!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: November-02-2010 at 1:00pm
Threadajack alert!!! Sorry guys, Pete the color on that motor, would you say that is pretty close to the original interceptor color? If so do you have the color formula?



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Posted By: charger496
Date Posted: November-11-2010 at 2:20pm
Mike,
I couldn't respond through your member profile for your request for stringer dimensions. I used a 1x8 to scribe a template of the stringers. Once the template was scribed to within 1/8 of an inch of the hull, I transferred the template to the real stringer and adjusted the top height to make sure it was level front to rear. Then I planed the edges to match the angle of the 'V' in the hull. This took a while, so I left the top of the stringer tall so I could rip it down to the floor height after the bottom was shaped. The first primary was the hardest, and I used the same template for both primaries. I don't know how close you could come with stringer dimensions on a paper template. I'd still transfer that onto a cheap piece of wood before cutting up the good stuff.


Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: November-12-2010 at 9:25pm
Originally posted by skutsch skutsch wrote:

Threadajack alert!!! Sorry guys, Pete the color on that motor, would you say that is pretty close to the original interceptor color? If so do you have the color formula?



Pete,
thats not good ol "rattle can" Alpine Green is it?

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-12-2010 at 9:43pm
Originally posted by 62 wood 62 wood wrote:

Originally posted by skutsch skutsch wrote:

Threadajack alert!!! Sorry guys, Pete the color on that motor, would you say that is pretty close to the original interceptor color? If so do you have the color formula?



Pete,
thats not good ol "rattle can" Alpine Green is it?

Steve K.,
Sorry I missed your question. Steve W. is correct that the Flexifour is painted with off the shelf Alpine Green engine paint. However, it's not exactly the same that Interceptor used. Theirs had more blue in it than green. There's been quite a few threads about duplicating the Interceptor color paint. Bruce struggled with it as well. A great match I've seen is the paint Reid came up when he did the job on the 390 he did. Billy just finished the 312 for Roger but he took the easy way out and used the Alpine. He was supposed to get in touch with the Hilpisch father and son team that is into Centurys, Y blocks and Dearbomatics but I don't think he ever did. From the pictures I've seen of their Interceptor restorations, they seem to have gotten as close or better than Reid got.

Steve,
Email me at work: pbrainard@shale-inland.com and I'll send you the Hilpisch's email address. he makes up decal sets for the Y blocks as well. I take it you're doing something with Dad's boat!!



BTW, I did do my research on the flexi Universal paint. I found out via one of the old timers on oldmarineengine.com that the alpine was correct. I also compared paint chips from under the oil pump flange (protected from a color change) as a confirmation.



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