75 separator rebuild
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20140
Printed Date: May-03-2024 at 8:11am
Topic: 75 separator rebuild
Posted By: connorssons
Subject: 75 separator rebuild
Date Posted: December-09-2010 at 7:34pm
Well finally figured out how to down size pics. here is some photos for ya.  a shot of junk interior
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Replies:
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-09-2010 at 7:52pm
pic of boat on dolly
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Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: December-09-2010 at 8:10pm
Great to see your progress Jeff keep posting the pictures,as your the V drive guy swing over after Greg and save that Torino. ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-09-2010 at 8:46pm
Tried to deal with guy that has the Torino ill wait till he is thinking more rationally  here is more pics of my 75.   these are the new stringers and some bulkheads, you guys are in trouble i have tons of pics 
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Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-09-2010 at 8:52pm
| All the wood was rotted to the point that it could not be used for a template except the stringers, thay were not rotted but very water loged. I used a straight edge and construction paper, and hot glue gun to make templates, worked very well |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-10-2010 at 1:39am
Here is what the sep looks like with no innerds  still have some grinding to do
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Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-10-2010 at 1:48am
more pics of inside! 
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Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: December-10-2010 at 12:04pm
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That is a beautiful boat Jeff. Winters are long up here you know that so post those pictures, it's been a little quiet on the projects around here lately.
Very nice homemade boat dolly too. It is sooo nice to be able to move the boat around in the shop rather than stationary. ------------- |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-10-2010 at 12:40pm
Here is pics of new wood test fitted. then cpes,d then making sure i know where it all goes again     when i go to bed in wood it will have more supports on the outsides.
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-10-2010 at 12:44pm
Jeff, its looking great. Making those bulkheads with the notches for the strakes is fun, isnt it?
Did you decide to not replace the wood in the keel? On our BFN, it was soaked- Im glad we took it out. And now the million dollar question... foam or no foam? ------------- |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-10-2010 at 1:05pm
Looked at wood in keel, test bored holes seems to be very dry. on your bfn did it seem dry or could you tell right away that it needed replaced. ya got me worried now  this is definatly the time to decide now. do to some of the design issues on these v drives { gas tank] we will be reinstalling foam it helps hold tank in place under floor.look at bottom pic thats were tank goes in front of 2nd bulkhead 
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-10-2010 at 1:18pm
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I think it was Greg who got me worried about the keel board. We were initially up in the air as whether to replace that, as well as the transom, lifting ring area, etc. It all looked fine until we dug in and everything was wet- some was rotten. We replaced with composite so we made the decision to get all the wood out while we had it apart.
It sounds like the gas tank is shaped like a vee and sits right down in the hull? Interesting! Personally, Id probably be looking at other ways to mount it rather than relying on the foam, but thats just me... the more CC's I restore, the more I find myself becoming part of the "no foam" camp. ------------- |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: December-10-2010 at 1:18pm
| The one on the dolly, that's a sterndrive right? I had seen a Sterndrive correct craft for sale in East Wakefield NH a couple years back. I didn't believe it was a real CC. It had an OMC looking white lower unit on it though. Is yours a newer Mercruiser? |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-10-2010 at 1:21pm
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CC made a number of sterndrives in the late 60's and early 70's. Ive seen Freeports/Swingers, Torino's, Separators, some tri-hulls and even a Mustang. They originally came with the white Volvo outdrives youre describing. ------------- |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-10-2010 at 1:30pm
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The 75 on the dolly has a mercruiser that is original, it will be replaced with a newer alpha gen 2 unit do to more horse power going in. im in the market for a boat with said outdrie above that has everything complete motor, drive, controlls, exc. that has been wrecked or what ever, keep your eyes open
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: December-10-2010 at 1:40pm
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Are those mains square on top? If they are, a small roundover will help when you're laying glass.
And could you please clean up that shop? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-10-2010 at 2:43pm
Good call Greg. Also, you'll want to remove the gel in the bilge where the glass for the new stringers and bulkheads will lay. I chose to remove it all, but 6-8" all around is probably enough. We also chose to remove all the glass that had been covering the original stringers and bulkheads so we were bonding directly to the hull... we spent a lot of time grinding and pulling up that glass. ------------- |
BuffaloBFN wrote:Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-11-2010 at 11:33am
Mains are slightly rolled over on top, and yes you guys are correct there is more grinding to do  well what do ya guys think about the keel board?
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Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: December-11-2010 at 12:16pm
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Jeff-
Looks great! Take some shots of that cradle: Inside and where the supports meet the hull. Thanks man ------------- Just because you can does not mean you should. |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: December-11-2010 at 12:17pm
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Alpha outdrive? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-12-2010 at 3:32am
| Hello Eric! not sure what your question is, but boat had old pre alpha 888 out drive. just want to upgrade to better equipement. |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-14-2010 at 11:47am
Here is a pic of the new tank we had built, the old one was all corroded up on the bottom. a fellow down in angola IN did the work,he did a very nice job, but expensive 500 bones. guess the boat wont run without it as soon as the weather breaks a little going to put boat out side and finish grinding 
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Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-26-2010 at 10:12pm
Well worked on the sep today, getting ready to do some wet sanding and gell repair. P/O repainted stripe so we scraped all paint, going to make template of old stripe to make reverse template so we can repaint. removed outdrive to clean and WALA! found more rotten wood the transom will need extensive work so ill have a few questions along the way. here are some pics.  
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Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-26-2010 at 10:20pm
these didnt post before.  
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Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: December-27-2010 at 11:48am
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You are so close. Pleaaaaase take some pics of that cradle from the underside of the boat.
Thanks ------------- Just because you can does not mean you should. |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-27-2010 at 12:53pm
Woftam! here ya go, just keep in mind that i use these just to make clean up alot easier, and rolling outside to grind when it comes to bedding and all the glass work im going to take it off bunk and get it closer to floor on similar bunk so my old ass dont have to do all that climbing in and out. this thing will roll if the wind blows, it will even move just by walking around in it {i didnt get the locking wheels] 
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Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-27-2010 at 12:55pm
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Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: December-27-2010 at 5:05pm
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Thanks, Man! I hear you on those locking wheels.
Good job on that Separator! ------------- Just because you can does not mean you should. |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-27-2010 at 8:47pm
Worked on the sep most of the day, got all the old wood out of transom. looks to me like the old ply was glassed then put in and bonded to the boat. the glass didnt stick to well when installed leaving a gap between wood and hull, what a friggin mess  today was one of those days you wished you passed on this fine unit here is pic prior to grinding, any body want to help  
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Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: December-27-2010 at 8:53pm
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My computer is acting up! sorry it wont let me post pic
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Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: December-29-2010 at 3:58pm
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Looks all too familiar. My 73 skier was just one rotten piece of rot after another. Just when you thought you might get away with not replacing this or that you are quickly reminded that EVERYTHING is rotten. I could squeeze water out of my transom lift ring assembly and it is 2" up in the air. That was the final piece that made me realize nothing was safe.
You are doing the right thing and will have a sweet new/old boat when you are done. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-03-2011 at 9:08pm
Well got more done on the sep! revamped the mobile bunk so it was usable to do all repairs, and not having to put on stationary bunk. do to not wanting grinding dust in my shop the brackets slid in and out and are ajustable up and down. removed almost all rotten wood, just keel board left, you know who you are that talked me into this, bfn. picked up all my wet sanding stuff today for deck and hull, starting at 600 then 1000 to 2000 then 4000. the last pic is of a test sand with 2000 just to check it out. hope you can see it in the pic Jeff   
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Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: January-03-2011 at 9:14pm
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Looking good! I can see a bit of the difference in the last pic. Whats the reasoning for going to 4000?
The 3m Compounds will take out anything 2000+ ------------- |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-03-2011 at 9:21pm
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Almost forgot this pic. check out where PO replaced speedo pick up, you can see where water was running in and out. no wonder why these boats rotted from the inside out, also check out spider cracks do to rotten transom. [FLEX]
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Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-03-2011 at 9:25pm
Sorry! again Storm! 4000 was recomended for a better finish, over kill huh.
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Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: January-03-2011 at 9:40pm
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Wow, thats amazing. I guess if you didn't know any better one would think leaving a hole like that was ok. Man were they wrong!!!!
Seems like it may be overkill but if you have time and energy, it's not going to hurt anything. Thats one interesting speedo. ------------- |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-11-2011 at 4:11am
Well got back with the donor boat for the upgraded outdrive tore into it last night and today, got all parts needed for sep. thay are dirty but in very good shape, the rest of the boat ain,t worth a rusty penny. who needs a lawn ornament? 
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Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-11-2011 at 4:25am
| Decided on what motor will go into this project. sbc 383 stroker 420 hp from summit a blueprint brand motor, has any body used this brand or can suggest a better alternitive with the same ponys and torque. |
Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: January-11-2011 at 10:51am
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Hey guys, is the exhaust thru hull original to this boat? If so, I wonder why it was placed so high on the transom? It seems that being so high would be annoying from a sound perspective. Jeff, with your new power, will you be staying with the single exhaust outlet? Will you be keeping it that high on the transom? Just curious. Nice project and nice work ------------- Steve 2011 Sport/Air 200 Excalibur 343 2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs) Former Malibu owner (07, 09) |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: January-11-2011 at 10:57am
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OK then...just which BFN is being dissed here?
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-11-2011 at 11:21am
Steve, The I/O's I've seen had the normal through the prop exhaust like Jeff's. However, when the Seperator/Torino/Spoiler hulls were set up with V drives, two different exhausts though the transoms were used. The early hulls were set up exiting high since the exhaust manifolds exits were towards the aft and went directly out from there. Then later (maybe to quite them down) the manifolds were reversed so the exits pointed forward. Then, they made a "U" bend down into the bilge and aft exiting the transom at a level common to the DD's. Real late in the V/D's life, I even think CC installed mufflers down under the engine. That "flapper" on Jeffs transom is for the bilge ventilator. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-11-2011 at 11:39am
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I know someone that has a pair of Interceptor "U" outlets if you need them. ------------- |
Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: January-11-2011 at 11:42am
Ahhhh, my newbieness shining thru. Thanks for the clarification, Pete. ------------- Steve 2011 Sport/Air 200 Excalibur 343 2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs) Former Malibu owner (07, 09) |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-12-2011 at 8:40pm
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Pete! you are exactly rite, as always. Steve I will be running thru hull exhaust up high,I like the rumble. with the new power i will be replacing the old 302 mercruiser with some chevy power 383 stroker i trimmed the transom today to fit the newer bigger outdrive, wasnt alot but this will definetly help. will keep ya posted.
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Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-15-2011 at 10:37pm
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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-15-2011 at 10:52pm
This is the best pic I got. It's from the ebay listing when we got them. I want the manifolds, but don't need the elbows.  ------------- |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-15-2011 at 10:52pm
Worked on the sep today, removed the keel board [thanks tim] it wasnt rotten but it was soaked all wiring removed and also got the old mercruiser throttle out. we also removed the window all the bolts had to be cut do to severe rust, what a pain so little room. just about have the hull stripped for wet sanding. waiting for a decent day to get the hull outside to finish grinding inside so we can get to glassing. here is some pics from today. btw what did cc use to seal window to hull.    boat kinda looks like a donzi wiyhout window
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Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-15-2011 at 11:04pm
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Hay Riley ! I cant see them thay are to small, are thay alum or cast? i might have a issue with exh cause of the way the steering hooks up do to being a out drive you can give me a ring to explain them if ya like. Thanks Jeff 269 506 1249
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-16-2011 at 10:45am
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if your going to skin the wood off the transom, buy yourself a portable hand planer, works well, I have a ton of Chevy Merc takeouts with all the ornaments hanging if you need any parts. google silent choice, alot of Mercs use them, ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-16-2011 at 10:53am
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you gotta watch, if you purchase a pre 86 chubby, it is a 2 piece rear main with different crank which warrants a different alpha drive coupling, after 86 is a 1 piece rear main, and to a different coupling....a little pricey and worth purchasing a new one because they tend to fail often. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-16-2011 at 10:56am
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also, if you put a new gimble bearing in and U-joints, which i hope you would while its off, buy them from Napa and not Merc....Merc gimble bearings and u-joints deleted the zerc fittings and a grease hole on the bearing so you cant service them....bastards ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-16-2011 at 11:03am
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if you do happen to go with thru hull, they do make a set of baffles, believe me the noise will be annoying as fck after a while, the baffles tame down the noise a bit and the complaints, open exhaust on an I/o is a touch louder than the norm of an inboard ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-16-2011 at 2:42pm
Good morning eric! yes the chubby is a 1 piece rear main, the newer OD is a 87model do ya think there will be a problem. was thinking of going with either aluminum mercruiser replacements 650 complete or the MP2K from michigan motors 1300 bones. the manifold are a long way off but need to be considered during this build  do to steering clearance. so the planer will take the thin layer of wood off transom, good idea that was my next project considering baffles but dont know if i have enough room. here is a pick of todays project, removed bow lift ring supports that was the last piece of rotten wood thats coming out and was one of the toughest. if any body thinks thay can leave any wood in during a resto look at this!
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Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-16-2011 at 2:43pm
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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-17-2011 at 11:19am
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Jeff, I'll call you later thins morning. I posted a better picture. The elbows did come off an Interceptor V Drive engine. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-18-2011 at 9:56am
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the baffles are about the size of a coffee can cut in half and mount directly to the transom and they have their own outlet tips that go out the back of the boat, cuts the open header noise in half, really is annoying with straight pipes on I/O's. when it comes to manifolds on these boats i can always think of better ways to spend the money, if its open checkbook, go with your gut. But, I think a pair of Mercs would be the way to go. if your going with a stroked engine there is plenty of useable horsepower
1986 is when they switched to a one piece RM, so the 87 coupling will fit on the crank. when you get to the point of aligning the engine to the drive i will send you my extra tool, but i need it back. The planer is definitely the way to go to skin the transom, it gets right down to the glass, I have a twin engine boat i have to put a transom in next month and i am not looking forward to it, I threw him a high price to dis courage him and he said OK, when should i bring it? fckkkkkk!!! not so bad though I guess, I need something to fill my days ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-18-2011 at 1:47pm
Thank for the info Eric! will pick up planer today  apprecate use of tool down the road! guess ill go with mercs. thanks jeff
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-18-2011 at 2:25pm
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now you know what i do in between transmissions lol, put my share of transoms in and alot of repairs on the Alpha/ gimble rings, crack the drive in half and put a new impeller in there, new rubber and shift cable...dont ask why just do it... lol really, invest in a new shift cable to the drive or the boat will stall everytime you put it into reverse because of the interupter switch. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: January-18-2011 at 8:15pm
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Hey Connorsons
I have to give a plug for an oscillating tool for that transom. I cannot tell you how much I love my Rein multimaster. I have recited so many boats with it I cannot even count. Of course the market is flooded with them now. I heard their patent expired ...I have seen dremel Milwaukee Bosch Rockwell and even Harbor Freight with oscillating tool models. Don't skimp on the blades though. I tried a HF. Blade for kicks and it lasted about 30 min before the teeth were rounded. By comparison some of my Rein blades are years old. I have bought Bosch blades in a pinch and they seem to hold up pretty well. ------------- Just because you can does not mean you should. |
Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: January-18-2011 at 8:18pm
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Last post should read Fein Multimaster. Dang autotext.. ------------- Just because you can does not mean you should. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-18-2011 at 8:44pm
Mike, I have to agree that the Fein is a great tool. I've had one for years and yes, paid dearly for it before all the cheap copies came out. One thing though, I believe Eric was talking about a power hand planer for skimming the gel off a transom. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WOFTAM
Date Posted: January-18-2011 at 9:11pm
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I was thinking of going at the transom core from the inside. Use a circular saw to cit through one layer of the glass, use a grinder to bevel both sides of the cut before removing the skin, then gently remove the inside skin. Use the Fein to get under the existing wet ply, but not damage the outer skin. Replace new CPES treated ply a la vacuum bag and epoxy with the filler of your choice. More epoxy on the inside skin after being prepared, pull another vacuum to re-apply the skin. Build up with 1", 2" and 4" tape around the cut referenced at beginning of the post. This was a way I would replaced rotten core under nonskid sections on sailboats. Those patterns were always a challenge to match.
Anyhow, maybe worth a try here? ------------- Just because you can does not mean you should. |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-19-2011 at 9:48am
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on I/O's they bond 2, 3/4" pieces of ply for drive stability, its 1.50 thick. its a beeoch to get off.... thats what i use the portable hand planer for.....you'll know when your close to the gel, when you get to that point you lower the blade....from the inside, once i skin the ply, then i'll come in with a mud hog with 80 grit to finish the gel for now bonding, dont be afraid of the planer the glass is real thick back there.
Conn, maybe you can post a pic of the inside of the transom for reference? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-19-2011 at 9:55am
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normally, the first piece of ply goes from corner to corner, the second piece covers the drive hole with extra. i cardboard template the first piece and fit, coat both sides and edges, let dry, scuff with 80, coat ply and use bolts thru gimble holes and tie off holes to clamp along with extended vice grips, at times i will put kickers in from the stringers to the ply to help in clamping ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-19-2011 at 10:00am
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to clarify, i do see the stress cracks on the outside transom, and i dont use the planer on the outside of the boat, address those cracks once all is done and stable on the inside ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 12:56am
Here is a pic of transom prior to planing! Eric, how am i going to attach the wood to transom. can you give me a step by step and the best products to use , thanks again.  and yes this is the best tool for cutting parts out 
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Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 1:06am
| See the build up of resin on bottom would ya cut it out or leave it. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 1:29am
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I vote to leave it.Could it be there for a reason like drain plug support? That is a drain plug there right? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 1:35am
| Gary ! you are correct [drain plug] |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 9:38am
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first, how thick is the mounting area? and are there 2 pieces of ply bonded together? normally you'll have a layer of gel, then glass and finally 2, 3/4 pieces of ply back to back
you'll notice the mounting studs on the gimble are 2.5 or so long. rmember the forces that are pushing a 3500 lb boat are all transfered thru the transom unlike an inboard. good qaulity ply...not marine, cpes highly recommended in this area. As I said, I make my pattern, pre fit the ply, drill my mount holes, coat liberally to waterproof, mix it on the cool side, lay the piece up in there and go to town with clamps, inluding any thru holes i will use pre determined bolt and nuts to clamp, including tie down holes....anything that has a hole...I have long arm vice grips that i will use thru the gimble hole to reach other ares and at the corners I will tie in kickers screwed to the stringers or anything solid ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 9:39am
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obviously once the first piece is in you cloth and glass the corners with heavy woven ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 9:41am
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btw, a portable hand planer would whack that down in under a minute ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 9:51am
Eric, I thought this was CQ's line!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 10:28am
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at what age do we become dirty old men? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 10:36am
| Good morning Eric! would ya have a second some time so i could give ya a call about the transom. thanks jeff |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 11:28am
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If the resin in question is simply pooled resin (no glass) then I would say remove it. It will be fairly brittle, as resin doesnt have much strength without the glass fibers. Its most likely a result of a sloppy build process.
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Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 2:24pm
| What,s the trick to putting the 2 pieces of ply together. does the 1st piece of ply get glassed on all sides. and what typ of ply do i get, if i read it rite i dont use marine ply . BTW the pooled resin is not brittle should i leave it in? |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 2:39pm
Just use standard 3/4" ply. All of the home dpot and lowes plywoods are made with external wood glue. Make sure it is untreated though. Thats what the cpes is for. When I laminated my lift mount and my stringers I used plain resin and a ton of clamps. Use thickened resin for bedding as mentioned by Tim.
 ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 2:42pm
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If its pooled resin, then it IS brittle. Take a hammer and chisel to it.
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Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 3:00pm
| the plain resin with hardner will hold them together, thats what your saying, then glass back and sides that goes to boat, then with thickened epoxy attach to hull. all treated with cpes of course then glass over top. how much glass over top, size, and layers? thanks for putting up with my ignorance. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 3:07pm
I believe that is the process that Keegan used, yes. ------------- |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 3:15pm
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Makes sence what your saying Benj, you just got your post in before i finished typing mine what typ of mat in between boards
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-20-2011 at 3:35pm
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Keegan's method is probably more applicable than what we did with the coosa in the BFN. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-21-2011 at 10:04am
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it appears that when they built your boat, time wasnt spent on the transom, to me it looks as if they mereley put 2 pieces of ply together in the gimble area only, and thats why i feel you have stress cracks.....spread the load accross the entire transom with the ply on the first piece corner to corner, and then the second piece as big as you can without obstructing any other component that may be back there. You probably have a deck hanging off the back also,
the one pic you have does not show so much in strength, just a mount pad for the gimble, cheesy, normally most wood back on the transoms are never coated, just painted....cost effective when building at the manufacturer....you have the opportunity to build it stronger and add the personal touch and be worry free when running the boat. post more pics of the transom if you can ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-21-2011 at 10:09am
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I backed up a bit and noticed the stress cracks originated in the area where the wood ends on the inside. thats what you are trying to eliminate with ply corner to corner...spread the forces of the outdrive. under power the outdrive has a tendency to pull at the top and push at the bottem of the transom. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: January-21-2011 at 12:14pm
On a sterdrive, where does the load of thrust apply on the boat? Is it directly to the transom like an outboard, or is ultimately pushing forward on the motor mounts? I've heard the term "stringer drive" used in reference to OMC sterndrives, just curious how the Mercruisers are set up. |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-21-2011 at 12:35pm
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Im following ya now Eric! hay i have a question now that the hull is stripped a friend told me to look for a hook in the hull, he said it will slow the hull about 5 mph what do you guys think? ilooked into it on the internet and its quite detailed. some boat are built that way for quicker planeing , and some are not. the sep i dont think was, so now after alot of straight edging to get hull straight and reinstalling stringers bulkheads ect, i can remove the hook and hopefully get some more mph any thaughts. hope this dont open a can of worms
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-21-2011 at 12:52pm
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Jeff, hook in the hull has been discussed here at length- try a search. ------------- |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-21-2011 at 1:05pm
| Tim after looking at mine it is only about an 1/8 strong, just by pushing the floor down in places it will take it out. well placed weights during stringer reinstall will easilly take hook out. does any body know if the sep was built with on in it? |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-21-2011 at 1:37pm
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Edit: nevermind. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-22-2011 at 10:30am
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on some of the older OMC's the entire engine drive package is supported by the transom, so to trim the boat the engine will go up and down with the drive. but on the mercs, the back 2 engine mounts rest on the inside gimble mount, but still at the top on the outside of the drive the force is being pulled out. you surely can deviate from factory on this one, at times over the years ive even aluminum plated on the inside on the last piece. this is one place strength is important ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-22-2011 at 5:45pm
Yep the resin is the glue. Weights or clamps depending on size and shape of pieces you are laminating. I did not glass any pieces before attaching them to the hull. I used cabosil thickened epoxy to attach to the hull. As it squeezed out I used the excess to make a fillet. Then I covered them with 2 layers of biaxial. Your transom might need an extra layer of glass given your application. Three layers of biax is super strong. 
 ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-22-2011 at 5:56pm
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Keegan, Nice work! ------------- |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-23-2011 at 4:00pm
Good afternoon! took some advice of you fine fellers again, made the 1st piece of transom support wider than original. made it as wide as flat part of transom permitted without bends, then cut smaller gimbal plate pattern for 2nd layer. here is a pic of template made with construction paper and hot glue, the part with an x will be cut out to make the 2nd layer. these pics are of the finished product prior to cpes. there is drywall screws temparaly holding it together, i will also use these when joining the 2 pieces together then removing. Eric thanks for suggesting the planer, I cleaned the transom in less than 1 hr. I owe you a case of beer of your choice i was not looking forward to that job. jeff  
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Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: January-23-2011 at 6:33pm
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It looks bulletproof. ------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-24-2011 at 10:11am
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chico's kid? looookin goood,
did you understand about pre drilling the 6 transom bolts that hold the drive and also using them as clamp bolts? also i will cut my opening small and sneak in with long vice grips, also too utilizing the u-bo;t holes too for bolt clamps. I dont think you'll want to use clothe between the layers, coat all sides and then scuff with 36 or 80 for the bonding to the transom, coat the edges very well because thats where it will soak and pull water, use the cloth (heavy woven) on the edges running it to the corners. I see you screwed the second piece on, you need to bond that piece also. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: January-24-2011 at 8:44pm
| Hay Eric! yes the second piece will be bonded, screws were for fitting and bonding perposes only, have all pieces cpes,d and ready to bond yes i understood on the clamping thanks, do ya use heavy cloth all the way across or just on the edges. jeff |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: January-24-2011 at 8:59pm
Looks great!  ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: connorssons
Date Posted: February-13-2011 at 4:56pm
After hitting the boat show in FT Wayne yesterday. decided i cant afford a new ride . so i did about 4 hrs of grinding today on the old sep. no that aint snow on me either  
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Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: February-13-2011 at 7:14pm
Wow you are a real man. I wore tyvek suit for grinding. gave me the ability to take a break and go inside if I needed to. Making me cringe just looking at those pics!  ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |