1990 Dash Wiring
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22036
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 4:15am
Topic: 1990 Dash Wiring
Posted By: MinaquaWI
Subject: 1990 Dash Wiring
Date Posted: June-09-2011 at 3:09pm
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In an effort to be a contributor to the site, I wanted to share my most recent project with the group in case any of you would find it useful or interesting. If anyone would like larger bmp's of my wiring diagrams, please let me know.
This year we bought a 1990 Sport Nautique and on the first voyage learned it has quite an annoying chirp and less than 10v from the common "low-voltage/bad ground/corroded connections at the dash" condition that I've been reading about. After spending an hour under the dash with a multi-meter tracing wires I put together a wiring diagram based off some of the other diagrams on this site. Right away I noticed a few things that didn't seem correct, so I also made a diagram of what I believe the wiring was from the factory. I have not verified EVERY wire but believe this my diagram to be pretty accurate. I would invite feedback on this from other members - specifically, what is the orange wire from my one accessory switch going to? It doesn't appear to power anything. And then lastly, I made a diagram of the changes I made to the boat. This includes running two 8ga wires to the dash, powering the ignition switch using a relay, adding two power points (which is really how this whole thing started) and providing new grounds to some equipment. I did not go through and clean the connections or solder anything. I am getting a solid 13.5 volts on the gauge while running and turning on accessories like the blower, heater, or stereo don't even make the needle move. Again, please provide input on the diagrams - I had to move some gauges and switches around to make it look like my 1990 dash so there may be some adjusting I need to do for wiring. If we can get the "factory" diagram to a point where the site admin's are comfortable, I would be happy to provide the larger sized file to be posted in the reference section. Thanks!    ------------- Current - 1991 Sport Nautique, 1970 Glastron GT-140, 1970's MasterCraft Jump Boat |
Replies:
Posted By: MinaquaWI
Date Posted: June-09-2011 at 3:12pm
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Oh no, it looks like I have some reading to do... or can anyone advise on how to make these diagrams show in their entire form? ------------- Current - 1991 Sport Nautique, 1970 Glastron GT-140, 1970's MasterCraft Jump Boat |
Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: June-09-2011 at 3:25pm
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Nice work, much appreciated. Welcome! We should be able to print those off and use in our boat at the size they are at. Before posting any other picture you have to shrink it. I like using Microsoft Photo Editor to get them down to about 600X400 (just what I use, some may use other things/sizes)
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-09-2011 at 3:38pm
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Nice work. Yeah, that diagram doesn't exist anywhere else that I could find.
I think your right on that orange accessory wire going to no-where. I think in some cases it can power a stereo? But I think it's just there in case you want to add something like a dept finder etc. |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: June-09-2011 at 3:44pm
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Awesome! Good work. ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: June-09-2011 at 6:23pm
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My horn has an orange hot. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: MinaquaWI
Date Posted: June-09-2011 at 7:02pm
Load or supply side? My boat and drawing have orange on the load side and red supply. ------------- Current - 1991 Sport Nautique, 1970 Glastron GT-140, 1970's MasterCraft Jump Boat |
BuffaloBFN wrote:Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: June-09-2011 at 7:29pm
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Very interesting, I have noticed my voltmeter reads only around 11volts in the on position even though I get 12.5 coming off the battery with a tester. Do you think this is due to bad/corroded wiring? Should I work on rewiring the whole dash or do you think running a beefier supply (8ga. as you mentioned) would be helpful. Also I noticed you mentioned running the ignition from a relay. What is the benefit of that? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-09-2011 at 7:38pm
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^^Running a new ground could help things a lot.
I posted a thread with pictures about it http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21901&title=added-new-dash-ground-to-93-with-pics - here . A new hot supply would be taking that a step further. When I added my ground, I left the original in place too. Are any of your other gauges acting funny? |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: June-09-2011 at 7:46pm
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tachometer jumps when turning over the engine. Havent paid too much attention to the others. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Daveinater
Date Posted: June-09-2011 at 8:24pm
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I have a '92 Sport and have had a few wierd glitches in my instruments. The alternator is putting out good voltage but my voltmeter only indicates 10 or so volts. Further, if I turn my navigation lights on (or any other high-load item), my voltmeter goes down further and my other engine guages (ie water temp and oil pressure) go UP. I cant tell you how many times over the last 10 years I have been motoring around our lake, as a family, at night time (with the lights on) and looked down to see my temp gauge reading something like 200+ ! DOH! Then I shut the lights off and it's all back to normal (170-180).
Okay, this forum is full of really smart people...any ideas? BTW, what water temperature does everyone think is ideal running temp on your engines? (I've got the Pro Boss ProTec 5.8L). I know alot depends on thermostat, water temp, etc. but I've worked w/ Vince at DIM over the years and my boat just seems to be "stuck" on 180 even tho my thermostat is 160. Granted, the lake we boat on is rather shallow and quite warm (more like bath water) but any thoughts here too? Minaqua, thanks for the diagrams and all the work that went into them---very helpful! 
------------- Dave B. %20http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3734" rel="nofollow - Our 1992 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: MinaquaWI
Date Posted: June-09-2011 at 9:47pm
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The first diagram is how I believe the factory intended, the second is how I purchased the boat, and the final is how I wired it now. In the third diagram you can see how I wired the relay into the ignition. The PO had some weird grounding going on which I think was contributing to my low voltage with the key and accessories on. I wanted to add two power plugs for inflatables, spotlight, and a marine VHF radio but I didn't want to starve the dash of any more power which is why I ran the new 8ga wires. To be honest, 8ga was probably overkill and they are harder to work with. It is 14 feet of wire from the back of the engine to under the dash. 14' of 8ga duplex from west marine broke the bank but at least I did it right and can add nearly any accessory to the dash now. I might do 10ga if I had to do it again.
I did a relay on the ignition to separate it from the other 12v devices. Essentially, the blower, heater, nav lights and bilge are pulling power through the engine harness. The ignition and my aftermarket accessories are fed by the 8ga. The ignition seemed to be the biggest amp draw with the key on during my testing. ------------- Current - 1991 Sport Nautique, 1970 Glastron GT-140, 1970's MasterCraft Jump Boat |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-09-2011 at 10:35pm
| I added another 10ga feed to my dash and I see 13.5 volts, but it drops to 12 with everything running, heater, bildge, stereo, Perfect Pass, blower and lights. Did you try it without the relay to see what kind of voltage you saw? I know the stock wire is undersized, but I'm curious if your getting no voltage drop from the wire or the relay. My stereo is an iPod so I'm not sure it really has a draw once it's charged, the amps have their own battery and wiring so only draw they have from the dash is a turn on wire that also charges the iPod. |
Posted By: MinaquaWI
Date Posted: June-09-2011 at 10:45pm
Did you add hot and ground? I did not run it without the relay so I cannot comment. The dash volt meter runs off the ignition switch, which is pulling power from my new 8ga wires. Where did you tie your new 10ga feed into? ------------- Current - 1991 Sport Nautique, 1970 Glastron GT-140, 1970's MasterCraft Jump Boat |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 12:23am
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I ran a 10ga duplex wire from the protected side of the 50 amp breaker to the ignition breaker on the dash for the hot. For the ground I went from the battery connection to the block to the beginning of the birdsnest where the grounds begin to split at the dash, tied to the exiting ground a few inches before the split. A bus would have been better there, but I'm just to lazy to do that much wiring.
For Memorial Day Weekend I added 2 more deepcycle batteries for the stereo with a switch that feeds a second master switch and a voltage sensitive relay. Right now I'm chasing a draw that is killing the start battery, I think it's the relay searching for the other batteries when I turn them off. Anyway the idea is to be able to separate all the batteries from eachother. My idea is to be able to charge with a 3 bank charger and hopefully be able to replace individual batteries as needed since one won't be able to take out another. Once I get it figured out I'll try towork up a diagram. |
Posted By: MinaquaWI
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 1:08am
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Sounds like a fun project. I wanted to do a VSR on our 25' Sea Ray but we were never away from shore power long enough that i needed to charge the house bank from the engine. Why are you switching between your deep cycles? Is this so you can charge the two banks as three banks at home? Unless you need to recharge your batts in a hurry, why not get rid of the switch, connect your charger to the starting batt and let the VSR kick in to charge the deep cycle bank in parallel? ------------- Current - 1991 Sport Nautique, 1970 Glastron GT-140, 1970's MasterCraft Jump Boat |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 1:43am
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It's most likely overkill, we usually don't sit with the stereo on and always are able to plug in at the dock. There are a couple of times a year though where we might spend most of the day listening with a few hours of running. These times we won't have shore power to charge for 3 or 4 days. I just need to be sure on those days that I'm OK. Like everything else, I suspect the stereo will grow over time and make use of all the extra capacity I have right now.
The main switch is a little different, it turns 2 loads on but keeps them separate, the other switch uses on battery or the other or both., the VSR combines the main switch for charging. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 2:25am
| Opps forgot to add that the 3 bank charger is because the way it's set up now I could do it as you say, but I'm mixing types of batteries so when the stereo bank is off it's also not paralleled for charging. 2 more batteries like the starting battery were $400, a couple of deep cycle batteries and another switch was less than $200 at Sam's. The AGM deep cycle/ starting battery would last maybe a hour once I added the sub amp, but it was new last fall and I just hated to throw it away, but had no use for it anywhere else. Over time I will eventually use the same types of batteries, hopefully that will be farther down the road like this. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 8:42am
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A relay will not solve the problem of voltage drop due to under sized wire handling more loads than it should. However, a relay added to switch a higher amp load and removing that load from the ignition switch is sound practice but, the wiring and connections need work first. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 9:27am
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i know it always sounds goofy but i have to add and it relates, and it sure helps me diagnose things. if you view an electrical system as the same as hydraulic theories it helps. For instance, view the battry as a water tower, that is the storage or holding place (current/water) on that tower is, lets say 100 pipes to take the water to certain areas,(house/voltmeter) over time the pipe going to your house rusts and leaks and you have no pressure (this would be corrosion) or if your not getting full pressure at your shower head, quite possibly you would look at your on/off valve (switch) maybe it is clogged.
with the lower pressure you are demanding more pressure so you try and open the valve more and thus more flow trys to go thru the rusted pipe (amp draw) which in theory will heat the wire. when you look at it this way it does help and I use the same identical theories to troubleshoot transmissions and engine oil pressure problems ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 11:03am
Dave, I had the same exact issues, but running a new ground, (I put details in a link in one of my posts above) solved a lot of that. Now my temp gauge holds steady when I turn on the lights etc. I think the original poster, TX Foilhead, Pete and others are all correct and saying you should run a new hot line as well. TX's "duplex" idea kills too birds with one stone. You just have to be a little more careful with the hot, that it goes to the protected side of the big 50amp engine breaker, and to the constant side of the ignition switch. With the ground, you can run it to any "Crossroads" in the ground system and you're good. Eric, great explanation. That helped a lot. Still trying to get some of this stuff. I'm still not totally clear on the principle of the temp gauge and how it works electrically. Anyone? |
Posted By: Daveinater
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 1:44pm
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Perfect! Thanks and your post with photos was very helpful.
Question: where do the ground wires come together behind the dash...is it under the dash pod or behind the switch panels? I ran a new ground and power to my stereo direct from the battery Perko switch in the back because I had a hard time figuring out the actual "source points" for power and ground behind the dash. I'd love to give a new ground and, if needed, power source for the dash instruments but am not sure where to route the ground to supply the whole instrument panel with a new ground source. I'm thinking this is the best way to go because just about every indication is affected by the activation of running lights. Further, as I mentioned, the Voltage Meter always indicates well below 12V even tho the alternator is putting out good voltage. We pilots hate guages that lie!!  I'll start with the ground first and see if I get any headway.
Thanks again for the great post! ------------- Dave B. %20http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3734" rel="nofollow - Our 1992 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 2:12pm
Probably not the same dash..but close..it gives you least and idea where to start... http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21901&KW=&title=added-new-dash-ground-to-93-with-pics - brian´s 93 new dash ground cable with pictures ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: Daveinater
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 2:26pm
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Thanks Sebastian...that's what I was looking at. Brian tapped in to the daisy chain that fed his perfect pass, depth finder, etc. but I'm thinking I need to route my new ground right to the actual ground source under the dash, or bus bar if there is one. (I will drop the panel under the dash because I cant get my fat head in the storage compartment door). I want to supply the entire dash with a new ground wire since everything seems affected by whatever the problem is. I need to find where the stock ground wire (that attaches to the engine) goes under the dash. The wiring diagrams supplied in this thread should be helpful, but are cut off so I'll have to look again.
------------- Dave B. %20http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3734" rel="nofollow - Our 1992 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 2:31pm
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The ground at the dash was a bit difficult to find since it wasn't in a single place. If I remember correctly everything starts to split over on the breaker side of the dash. You can find the 10ga coming from the motor under the dash and just follow it up through the hole behind the speedos, then you'll hit the splits. I tied in right there, have a few large butt connectors, it took me a few tries to get 2 10ga wires together on one side while only having a single on the other and having to work in the mess of other wires.
Another thing, be sure to disconnect the battery, especially with the duplex wire. I'm lazy and don't always do that when I'm working on the wiring, I'll just turn off the ignition breaker usually. Everything on the motor is hot unless you have a battery switch or disconnect the battery. |
Posted By: Daveinater
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 2:36pm
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Hey TX, clarify what you mean by "duplex wire". Did you just wire in a jumper parallel to the existing wire, to supplement it? What is the benefit to doing it that way vs. running an entirely new lead from the battery (or hot off the engine)?
I have a "Perko" selector switch (OFF-BATT 1- BATT 2 - ALL) that cuts off all power from the battery so I am good to go there. ------------- Dave B. %20http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3734" rel="nofollow - Our 1992 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: MinaquaWI
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 2:47pm
Dave, the diagrams are cut off on my Mac, but my PC has a scroll bar. (score 1 pt for PC). Email me and I can send you the full size diagrams on Monday. For the ground, the 10ga harness wire on mine goes into one side of a butt connector and about 6 - 16ga wires are crammed into the other side. If you run a second hot, this would tie on the supply side of the ignition switch, same place the harness 10ga comes in. I did not find any distribution blocks on mine. Def take off the panel or you won't be able to access the half the wires under the dash. ------------- Current - 1991 Sport Nautique, 1970 Glastron GT-140, 1970's MasterCraft Jump Boat |
Posted By: jwchapman
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 2:51pm
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This is awesome - thanks! There is nothing like these posting boards to make me feel like a complete and total slacker. I had the exact same problem with my 90 Sport when I bought it 4 years ago. So after making sure I was really getting good voltage, I .....
... unscrewed the panel and disconnected the alarm. Definitely going to fix it one of these days... ------------- 1991 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: MinaquaWI
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 2:53pm
The duplex wire is a hot and ground wire in a single sleeve. http://http://www.westmarine.com/1/1/26240-duplex-wire-by-the-foot-10-2-gauge-wire-sold-per.html - Duplex wire Here ------------- Current - 1991 Sport Nautique, 1970 Glastron GT-140, 1970's MasterCraft Jump Boat |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 3:00pm
Dave, "duplex" means two - Two wires in the same jacket. This saved him fro having to run single wires up for both the hot supply and the ground. Duplex in marine grade is available, ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 3:01pm
| Duplex wire is just 2 wires that have a cover around both, it's handy because you only have to pull 1 thing. Like Eric said, it's like plumbing so I did both sides. After some discussion on other boards I decided to get my hot from the 50 amp breaker. Never saw a good explanation, but the general consensus was the 50 amp breaker protects the wiring to the dash should something go wrong with the alternator or the battery. |
Posted By: MinaquaWI
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 3:11pm
I second this. And at $3 a foot for wire, it saved me an extra $15 since the battery is under the rear seat in the sport. If you ran to the battery, I would add a fuse there but this means more connections. ------------- Current - 1991 Sport Nautique, 1970 Glastron GT-140, 1970's MasterCraft Jump Boat |
Posted By: Daveinater
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 3:12pm
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Nick,
OOPS...duh...I see a scroll bar too. (Pretty lame for a self-professed computer geek. Sorry). Still, it would be nice to have a copy of the diagrams e-mailed if possible. Didnt see your e-mail in your profile so here's mine: Four-Bucks at att dot net As for the duplex link you provided, it's broken so you may want to double-check it. When you e-mail I will confirm exactly where you ran that duplex from and to, so I dont have to beat a dead horse with everyone watching...hahah 
------------- Dave B. %20http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3734" rel="nofollow - Our 1992 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: MinaquaWI
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 3:23pm
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Dave, if you do a google search for duplex at west marine, it comes up right away. Like I said earlier, I used 8ga, but if I did it again, I would use 10ga. 8ga connectors are hard to find and it's thick wire to work with. If you are ambitious or running high power amps or accessories, maybe 8 ga would make you feel better though. ------------- Current - 1991 Sport Nautique, 1970 Glastron GT-140, 1970's MasterCraft Jump Boat |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 3:53pm
| Amps shouldn't run off the dash wire, maybe the head unit, but it's best to keep the stereo all connected to the same battery bank if you can to keep the noise out. I've been lucky with mine and never had an issue, but I'm very careful about making sure everything is connected to the same ground, the new bus makes that easy. There's enough. screwy things going on with marine stereos, don't add one. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 3:59pm
Load side of the main breaker for the + feed and engine block for the -. Then, I prefer up to added terminal strips under the dash so you csn branch off from them instead of trying to tap into the existing daisy chains. The terminal strips also give you more room for future add-ons. Solderless ring terminals for 8ga are not hard to find but I suggest getting the ones with the heat shrink insulation on them. Good old McMaster has them. http://www.mcmaster.com/#solderless-terminals/=cot1mc - 8ga, by # 10 stud ring terminals ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Daveinater
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 4:45pm
Thankfully I ran my two Alpine PDX 4.150 amps and Infinity Kappa Perfect sub all off seperate 6-guage wiring from the battery, with their own fuse blocks, etc. I cant rememeber if I rewired the head unit off of that same circuit but I believe I did. So my main issue is the factory guages/indicators. Thanks for all the great advice everyone. ------------- Dave B. %20http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3734" rel="nofollow - Our 1992 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 4:52pm
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OK. I have been putting off fixing my weak ground on my SAN for long enough. I have been stalling for 6 years.
I have a 2 ga. power and ground cable from my batteries to terminal blocks, and then they branch to my amplifiers. Is there any reason I cannot simply tag an 8 ga. ground wire from the ground block to my ignition, rather than going all the way back to the batteries? If I elect to run an additional power wire, I would come off the perko. Sorry, still 12V challenged for the most part. thanks ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 5:34pm
| I don't see a problem with the ground wire if all you batteries are grounded to that spot and it's grounded to the motor. I do try and make my wiring easy for someone else to figure out so you might want to do the same for a future owner or someone working on it. The problem with wiring to the Perko switch would be that wire is connected straight to the battery and might not be fused. I've burnt up a couple of wiring harnesses on other things and it's a PITA to have to clean up and redo. I'm also not real clear how the newer boats are wired, so you might want to look over the diagrams before you start. I spent a few nights looking at the diagrams, and searching online before I decided what to do. Then I ran it buy a couple of engineers at work just to make sure my thinking was right. It's not that hard once you look at it a spend a little time figuring it out. |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 6:16pm
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I went and got some 10ga wire and a couple appropriate ring terminals at lunch. I am just going to do the ground first and see how that works. If that is not the complete solution, then I will run a wire from the perko, and definitely fuse it. I am 12v challenged, but not that much so.
thanks Mike ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Daveinater
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 6:18pm
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Mike,
I think I am alot more well versed in 12v that you so I'll just warn you now---make sure the battery is off or you will totally fry yourself. 
Good luck! Dave P.S. Let me know how the new wire changes things. My boat is 2 hr drive away so I have to prep for this and hope to do mine within the next week or so. ------------- Dave B. %20http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3734" rel="nofollow - Our 1992 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 7:04pm
| I don't see a problem with the ground wire if all you batteries are grounded to that spot and it's grounded to the motor. I do try and make my wiring easy for someone else to figure out so you might want to do the same for a future owner or someone working on it. The problem with wiring to the Perko switch would be that wire is connected straight to the battery and might not be fused. I've burnt up a couple of wiring harnesses on other things and it's a PITA to have to clean up and redo. I'm also not real clear how the newer boats are wired, so you might want to look over the diagrams before you start. I spent a few nights looking at the diagrams, and searching online before I decided what to do. Then I ran it buy a couple of engineers at work just to make sure my thinking was right. It's not that hard once you look at it a spend a little time figuring it out. |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 7:20pm
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Dave
The batteries won't even be connected if I go to the positive side. Perko off for the ground addition, though I don't think it needs to be. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Daveinater
Date Posted: June-10-2011 at 7:22pm
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Mike,
That was my lame attempt at humor. Don't listen to a word I say.
(When you're done, you can do my boat). Have a good weekend, Dave ------------- Dave B. %20http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3734" rel="nofollow - Our 1992 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-13-2011 at 2:52pm
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Sorry, I was offline all weekend.
After reading everything above, I'll just mention that these boats don't typically come with a ground bus, hence the wacky daisy chained ground. It would be possible to wire a ground bus in, and that could be a great improvement, just a little bigger project. You could have all of your instruments and accessories, and maybe the original factory harness ground go to the bus, and add your new wire to the bus as well. That would probably be even better than what I did, but it would mean a complete re-wiring of the ground side of your dash. |
Posted By: Daveinater
Date Posted: June-20-2011 at 11:21am
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All,
Just wanted to give a quick updated on MY dash wiring project. First off, special thanks to Nick for his awesome wiring diagram. I'm especially impressed that he took the time to figure it out after my personal look under the dash. I didn't take any photos but just a few things to note: My 1992 Sport did not have a "daisy chain" like was noted in Nick's post. Instead, it had the engine ground to a butt splice (it looked factory) which then went to two one large grouping of wires, each into a very large butt splice (again, it was factory). The first butt splice had all the grounds for the dash switch "ON" indicator lights (next to each C/B switch). Off of that splice, there was one jumper wire which went to the second large butt splice which had all the grounds for most of the instrument cluster. Additionally, the ground wires for a couple smaller harnesses were tapped in to the instrument cluster grounds via butt splices. A mechanic buddy of mine made a very nice buss bar and soldered some heavy duty jumpers between all the contacts on one side and made a 10 gauge "feeder wire" into that side, with a butt splice, where I attached the new ground wire from the engine (just like Nick did). I screwed the buss bar to the side panel under the dash to keep it secured. I then took the few odd rogue ground wires, snipped each, installed a ring terminal and fed it direct to that buss bar. I snipped the jumper between the two large butt splice junctions and fed each butt splice to the buss bar as well. I started the boat and viola! No weird indications, no "jumps" when the lights were turned on and my voltmeter reads a steady 14 volts! (It never read above 10 v but I knew the alternator was doing it's job since I tested it with a voltmeter). Additionally, after running the boat all weekend, I discovered that my "warm operating temperature" issues were ground-related as well. Instead of running 160-180 (and close to 190-200 at times), it ran 140-160 (and never above) all weekend. Lesson learned: These boats seem prone to bad ground issues. If you're chasing down some weird indications, start there first! Again, thanks to Nick for his hard work, diagrams and post which inspired me to (finally) attack this, and to the rest of you who added in valuable information. ------------- Dave B. %20http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3734" rel="nofollow - Our 1992 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-20-2011 at 12:48pm
 Sounds like you hit a grand slam with the bus bar. I think that's ultimately the way to go to get it all 100%
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Posted By: MinaquaWI
Date Posted: June-20-2011 at 6:07pm
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Dave that's great! ------------- Current - 1991 Sport Nautique, 1970 Glastron GT-140, 1970's MasterCraft Jump Boat |
Posted By: gjsullivan
Date Posted: August-24-2011 at 4:12am
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OK here is how you see the whole diagrams.
right click on a diagram. You can do a save as and save it as a jpg file that you can then open and print. Or you can right click, copy and paste it into a word doc. set the page to landscape and save the doc. Thanks for doing this. I drew my entire wiring diagram. Had it for 10 years and lets just say the diagram disappeared last week.( I should have made a copy :-( oh well ) I have the leaking voltage problem and we were going to try and track it down, but without the wiring diagram it would take a while. Can you provide the source files you used to draw the diagrams. I have some custom wiring I have done and would need to modify what you have. Thanks for all the work laying out the wiring. Glenn gjsullivan@juno.com ------------- 67 Mustang, 90 Sport |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: August-24-2011 at 12:40pm
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Threadjack...
Nick, lets see some pics of that jump boat!!! ------------- |
Posted By: Airgrabber
Date Posted: August-24-2011 at 3:02pm
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As for added a relay to your starter that’s a good idea because as the contacts in the ignition switch can only handle so much current. It’s like having a resistor in the circuit if your contacts are getting burnt or bad. I do that in a lot of older cars that I’ve rewired because the ignition wires run through the switch. As for voltage drop you should have the same voltage reading from the regulator threw the whole circuit. If there is a voltage drop to any of the components it can be several issues, to small wire, bad connections, and loose terminals. Look at all the wires and connections make sure they are not discolored. Also over sizing you wire by a couple of gauges will definably not hurt anything especially if you adding a stereo. Take an amp reading at the regulated 12 volts and make sure not drawing more that what the alternator is rated at. ------------- Life is good. Work hard! Play Hard! |
Posted By: gjsullivan
Date Posted: August-24-2011 at 11:15pm
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Nick,
Are these drawings had drawn on paper ? ------------- 67 Mustang, 90 Sport |
Posted By: gjsullivan
Date Posted: August-30-2011 at 3:17am
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Nick,
The blue wires you have going to the instrument lights do not have a connection to power. I think you need to bring a connection down to a light switch. Glenn ------------- 67 Mustang, 90 Sport |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-09-2013 at 8:57pm
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Old thread, but was informative - I finally added the extra hot-feed to the ignition breaker today. I gained about 1/2 volt per the dash voltmeter. I pretty much followed what was discussed here but I also added a fuse for the new 10 gage wire - my thought was that if the main wire ever was somehow taken out of the circuit, the 10 gage wire would only be protected by the 50 amp breaker (do you smell something burning?) The fuse is tie-wrapped to the breaker bracket:  ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: drekeith
Date Posted: July-07-2015 at 7:09pm
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Hello...I love the diagram and it looks similar to my 1994 sport nautique.. I am no electrician (but can do some wiring). I simply want to run my new radio from a spare acc breaker because currently it runs from the clock (as you would know) and at louder volumes my radio goes into safe mode "or just shuts off" I suspect it is drawing down too much amperage through the smaller wire that runs form the clock when i turn it up but I would like to simply require so that it is on acc 3 or 4. Can you guide me on where to connect my new hot wire and ground (also running from the clock). Also, what about the current yellow wire that runs form the ignition (or I can just leave that one I guess?) Thank you! ------------- KD |
Posted By: spiralhelix
Date Posted: July-07-2015 at 7:22pm
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the top sides of the breakers are all daisy chained together, so you can attach your 12v ig wire from the stereo to the bottom part of the breaker. The preferred method for adding the ground is to use a negative bus bar, but you can just pigtail the stereo ground with the others. Not sure if i have seen much discussion on the 96, but a lot of people have run new power to the ig breaker and a new ground, both increasing the size from 14 gauge to 10 gauge. Not familiar with the yellow wire, so I can't comment on that without looking at a diagram. -Spiral UPDATE: I just looked at the diagram on the first page. You shouldn't have to do anything with the yellow wire. Seems odd they even wired the stereo off the clock to begin with. In a car, the ignition acts as the switch for the stereo, but when using the acc switch, that will do the same thing, so you don't need to wire the stereo to the ignition key. |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: September-07-2016 at 8:55pm
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Sorry to dredge up an old thread..but I am wondering if ANYONE knows of a dash wiring diagram for a 1993 SN? Is it the same as the 1990?? I am going to dig in and replace some non working backlights in a few gauges, maybe pull a new 10 gauge ground wire from the engine, and stuff like that. a diagram for the back would be great. Thanks for any thoughts, help, etc. ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-07-2016 at 10:21pm
| The logic for the 93 is basically the same as the diagram for the 89 that you'll find under reference > miscellaneous on this site. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-07-2016 at 10:24pm
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Here's the work I did on my 93, plus work others did to theirs as well; http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21901" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21901 |
Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: September-07-2016 at 11:13pm
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thanks much. I read through your thread..and will be adding the extra ground and hot runs from the engine to the dash. ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: Bamanautique91
Date Posted: June-30-2021 at 7:58am
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but does anyone still have these images/diagrams? They aren't showing up for me on this thread? Would love the ones from the thread on the new ground wire being ran as well. I had my 91 die on acceleration and the ignition breaker kept tripping. When I got it home and reseated the wires on the ignition breaker it fired right up, but just wanted to check wiring and grounds. Thank you! ------------- Ryan 91 Ski Nautique Huntsville, AL |
Posted By: drekeith
Date Posted: June-30-2021 at 9:13am
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Sounds like you hit a home run. Back a few years ago I beefed up my 94 SN but adding a powered sub with a dedicated 8 ga power from battery and ground to the motor. I also ran a separate 8 gauge power and another dedicated 8 ga ground to a a power block and a ground block under the dash. On this I installed new clarion m303 radio with 4 new monster 6 inch speakers and a monster amp. In a addition installed a relay between acc1 and the clarion in hopes that the radio would not shut off every time I start the engine. On the plus side, I can crank volume to whatever level, have blower and bilge running and nothing cuts out, but I still have the issue where when I restart the motor (say when picking up a skier) the radio reboots, kicking off my bluetooth connection to my phone, etc.. Again, I was hoping the relay would solve that issue but somehow is still resets. I put a multi meter on the power and ground block the other day just to see what the volts dropped to when I started the engine. Running, I am getting about 13.5 V, but where I shut engine off an restart is bounced down to 10.5 V (or so) and I can only guess the radio cant sustain staying on when it drops that much. I don't have room for an additional battery to help that issue (as has been suggested) but maybe someone can help me figure a way to solve this cut out issue on restarting. ------------- KD |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-30-2021 at 9:28am
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Keith, With one battery, I don't feel there's a solution. Cranking the engine drops the volts down to the point where the sound system can't handle it. The 10.5 is on the low side so you may what to check the condition of the battery. Have it load tested. Also, what type of battery is it? Cranking an engine needs a starting type and not a deep cycle. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: drekeith
Date Posted: June-30-2021 at 9:46am
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Thanks. The battery is a Oreillys Brand 24 MS. CCA 800 / MCA 1000, but yea I just looked and it is almost exactly 3 years old, but year I think its just not enough to keep it all going while cranking. Like I said the 10.5 ish as cranking was a rough estimate. I will check it out again, but I think it would take 2 batteries as well and its not worth that much trouble to me since the fit is already tight with just one battery. This battery is actually a tad to tall in the first place ------------- KD |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-30-2021 at 10:04am
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Pete- I think there is something more to this than that, I think it’s the way PCM has it wired. The reason I think this is because my Shamrock does the exact same thing, all electronic’s shut down when starting. I have dual Optima batteries with a Perko switch, no matter what position the switch is in out they go , one, two or both. Never looked into it but I had planned to run a separate fused lead from the second battery just to feed the electronics. The only thing common between these two boat companies is the PCM power. Is it possible the solenoid shuts down power to the accessory side of the system when in the start position? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-30-2021 at 11:29am
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Gary, Some electronics have built in protection that shuts them down with voltage issues. This may be the case with low voltage during cranking?? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-30-2021 at 1:18pm
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I just happen to have the Shamrock here at home for an engine change. Since Ken has raised the bar I will go out and throw a battery in it and test. It has done it with 2 new batteries and has done it when you crank it over with both supplying power. That's why I suspect PCM has wired it so it kills all accessories while in crank mode so that it does not lower voltage to the coil. Maybe that's why they don't bother to bypass the coil resistor when starting? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-30-2021 at 4:00pm
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I'll be danged Pete is right. Went out with 2 Optima's right off the maintainer #1 reading 12.90 #2 reading 13.34 volts. Connected them both up in their proper carriers. Testing all done at the main fuse box I hit the starter on both to see if it changed anything which it did- resting with key off #1 now read 12.73 #2 was 12.70 combined they were at 13.01 Now using #1 turned the key on it now read 11.75 #2 was at 11.72 combined they were at 13.01,this is with the original points system. Now the big test,hit the starter with #1 voltage dropped to a lowest of 10.0 #2 was at 9.69 and combined while cranking was 10.74 Looks like my idea of running a separate wire to #2 just to run the electronics would not work if you had the Perko switch in the both position anyway. You'd have to start it on the #1 only, then move the switch to both to keep them charged. Then when you stopped and go to restart you'd have to move the switch back to #1. Going to have to think this one out and maybe go to a ACR type system ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-30-2021 at 4:15pm
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Gary, You need 3 batteries!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-30-2021 at 4:39pm
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And then 2 more feet of boat it never ends.... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-01-2021 at 6:45am
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Some people might do a Google search or find an electronics geek type to see what could be done to keep the radio on when starting the boat (or car) Me, being not too geeky at least with electronics asked one of those type friends and he started talking about things like capacitors and diodes and how to wire something up. (His radio stays on when he restarts the boat and he only uses one battery) When i snapped out of the dazed semi coma that his conversation had put me into, he said, why don't you watch this YouTube video and it'll get the idea across to you. He did say your results might vary depending on the radio and your level of "geekiness" Since i don't exactly care about a stereo in a boat, I figured I'd post a link to the video he showed me and someone could give it a whirl or maybe someone will just tear the guy to pieces without ever trying it first http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtd6dAwq3QY" rel="nofollow - link I'd try it, if I had a radio I was interested.in keeping on while restarting PS Geek is used in a complimentary way in this post
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Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: July-01-2021 at 10:04am
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I am wondering if installing a flux capcitor might help in this situation?? ------------- '93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
Posted By: drekeith
Date Posted: July-01-2021 at 10:45am
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That is a great idea! In my case I have installed a relay between the switch and radio where the relay is powered direct to the power block. In this case, where would the small 16v capacitor need to go? ------------- KD |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-01-2021 at 12:35pm
I think a vibrating magnetic transmogrification unit would be far superior to a flux capacitor in this particular situation. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-01-2021 at 12:40pm
It seems like it would do it's job wired between the relay output terminal(87 terminal) and the radio.
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Posted By: drekeith
Date Posted: July-01-2021 at 2:25pm
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Sound logical. I have been thinking through it and I am no electrical guru, but I wonder if the switch (86) side also cuts out when starting the motor and would cause the relay “switch” to trip? I guess there is only one way to know and if it does not work then another wire splice isn't going to be the end of the world. ------------- KD |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-01-2021 at 4:03pm
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I'd think I'd put the diode and the capacitor after the 87 terminal in that order to feed the radio ( relay to diode to capacitor to radio) The capacitor should keep the power there for a few seconds, keeping the radio powered while the boat starts. If you had an excessive crank time, the radio would probably lose power. PS Here's where you throw in one of those many sayings about "it's better to have tried and failed.................................. It's even better to try and succeed though, Good luck
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