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Moving in to the garage

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24179
Printed Date: May-04-2024 at 5:42am


Topic: Moving in to the garage
Posted By: Jllogan
Subject: Moving in to the garage
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 2:38am
So my wife probably thinks I am moving into the garage because I have been busy and going to get busier with boat projects. I am planning on doing the good old floor/stringer replacement and some engine performance upgrades while I have the engine out.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001






Replies:
Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 2:48am
Originally posted by Jllogan Jllogan wrote:

I am moving into the garage because ....


Its where most of us end up sooner or later anyway.

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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique



Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 2:48am
The first step was to organize and heat the garage.

I built some shelving for our boards and ski stuff

I insulated the garage and installed some 220v heat.

Then my wife made me a giant canvas curtain to separate the heated workspace from the rest of the garage.


Its been a busy november but there is lots more to come.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 3:01am
The PO cracked the exhaust manifolds so I removed them ground them down and welded them.
Here they are before with the cracked V'ed out

and after they were welded and ground back smooth

I plan to take them to the machine shop to have all the mating surfaces milled.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 9:07am
Justin,
It was sure nice of your wife to make you the canvas curtain. She must want you to spend time out there in the new garage!

Watch out for the electric heat - I have it in my garage down here and it's always a shock when the electric bill comes it in the winter months. I installed it (5000 watt/17,000 BTU) just because I had the power handy and didn't want to run a gas line out to my garage. I took the easy route but now pay for it with the electric bill!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 9:44am
you close to Mohawk lake Logan?

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 10:17am
When she starts sewing pillow cases for you you may have crossed the line!

Nice work area. Hope you plan to do your grinding outside.

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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 10:52am
Justin - How did you weld the manifold? Did you preheat it? Stick weld?   Nickle rod?

Cast iron can be tricky!

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 11:14am
Yes preheat the oven to 425, add water, flour.......oh wait sorry, and yes used the nickel rod. I tried brazing first but I just couldnt get it to take for some reason, seemed like alot of impurities or something in the iron, the nickel rod was no sweat. I hope it holds, I brought it back down in the oven as well.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 11:18am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Justin,
It was sure nice of your wife to make you the canvas curtain. She must want you to spend time out there in the new garage!

Watch out for the electric heat - I have it in my garage down here and it's always a shock when the electric bill comes it in the winter months. I installed it (5000 watt/17,000 BTU) just because I had the power handy and didn't want to run a gas line out to my garage. I took the easy route but now pay for it with the electric bill!


Yes pete it was very nice, well she loves boating to so I just say hey this will get your baby on the water and it happens. She got a slammin deal on the fabric too, she loves deals.

Yes, I know the pitfalls of the electric heat but I made the same decision you did that I just didnt want to shell out all the money at once to run the gas out so I kinda knew it would be more of a monthly payment plan. My buddy had an 15,000 BTU 220V garage heater he sold me for 80 bucks and since I had the juice all I had to do was wire it up. I figured it would be a get by for this winter.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 11:19am
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

When she starts sewing pillow cases for you you may have crossed the line!

Nice work area. Hope you plan to do your grinding outside.


Ya, I actually have some leftover plastic and was kind of planning on making a quarantine tent over the boat. What do you think of that plan? Its gonna be cold outside!!

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 11:33am
Originally posted by Jllogan Jllogan wrote:

Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

When she starts sewing pillow cases for you you may have crossed the line!

Nice work area. Hope you plan to do your grinding outside.


Ya, I actually have some leftover plastic and was kind of planning on making a quarantine tent over the boat. What do you think of that plan? Its gonna be cold outside!!


That would okay but you'd need to incorporate an exhaust fan or you won't be able to see anything let alone breath. If at all possible bundle up for the cold and do it outside.



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Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 11:39am
I know this may seem like a dumb question but if you're worried about the high electric bill wouldn't it make since to use a portable kerosine to heat up the garage first then keep it there with the electric heat?

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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 11:52am
Originally posted by Morfoot Morfoot wrote:

I know this may seem like a dumb question but if you're worried about the high electric bill wouldn't it make since to use a portable kerosine to heat up the garage first then keep it there with the electric heat?


Not a dumb question at all!! In fact that is what I have done on a few cold days, really with all the insulation and that super heavy curtain and it really maintains heat pretty well. I just use the electric to maintain and with the thermostat it really runs very little. I just didnt go into great depth on how specifically I was heating the garage. But pete is right because once I start doing fiberglass I will need to leave it on all night though and it will be working hard when the temperature drops.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 11:55am
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

Originally posted by Jllogan Jllogan wrote:

Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

When she starts sewing pillow cases for you you may have crossed the line!

Nice work area. Hope you plan to do your grinding outside.


Ya, I actually have some leftover plastic and was kind of planning on making a quarantine tent over the boat. What do you think of that plan? Its gonna be cold outside!!


That would okay but you'd need to incorporate an exhaust fan or you won't be able to see anything let alone breath. If at all possible bundle up for the cold and do it outside.



Ya good point. I guess I have to wait for a balmy winter day and roll it outside. Maybe I could just work by feel, I dont need to see.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 6:22pm
Got the engine pulled. It is living happily on the engine stand and the parts are piling up on the work bench. I need a new dampner and am considering a new starting gear. I am posting a picture of the worst teeth damage on it. What do you guys think? Replace it?

No more engine


Engine on stand


Dampner


These are the teeth with the most wear, there is two or three other wore spots but much less.


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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Swatkinz
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 7:59pm
Justin, I just replaced my flywheel and damper. For me, it was just a matter of doing it while I had it apart. The teeth on my flywheel were a little worse than what you show in the picture. I felt that if/when the damper and flywheel caused issues, those issues would come during skiing season and I didn't want to deal with it then. I think that the way to go with the flywheel is just to replace the geared ring instead of buying a new flywheel. My damper showed no obvious issues, but all highly recommended replacement and that seemed reasonable.

just my .02. Lots on here know more than me, but that's what I did.

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Steve
2011 Sport/Air 200
Excalibur 343
2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer

Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs)

Former Malibu owner (07, 09)


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 8:54pm
Justin,
You need a new dampner!

Regarding the ring gear, you could just flip it around but, they are really not that expensive. Just do me a favor if you do decide to get a new gear, DO NOT go to Autozone!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 9:56pm
Like Pete said, heat the edge of the fly wheel and flip the ring gear over.AND REPLACE the dampner plate.

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- waterdog -

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique



Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-21-2011 at 11:32pm
I thought that hole inthe dampner might increase HP . I just learned from another source as well that the gear could be heated and replaced so I will probably do that. Trust me I will not go to autozone. I learned never to deal with them through my automotive experience. One time I went into autozone and the guy who worked there told me to get parts elsewhere. Yikes!!

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-22-2011 at 2:58pm
Baby steps, I removed all the interior pieces last night. The drivers seat pretty much just lifted straight out with the screws still in.



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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-22-2011 at 11:54pm
carpet is out and my floor isnt in as bad of shape as some I have seen but there are definitely soft spots and cracks.



I think the piece laying to the left was an attempted repair. Can can anyone confirm this? I think the piece around the pylon is part of the rest of the floor on other stringer jobs I have seen


This is the worst crack


Is this worth saving, its real rusty? I have been trying to free it up with liquid wrench and hitting it with a hammer. But it has been tough sledding.


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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 9:50am
I too would flip the ring gear, clean the other edge, just sent a full drum of those incased dampers to the scrap yard. did you say you were near Mohawk?
an air hammer with a flat bit does wonders on the ring gear

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 11:19am
Justin, it's gonna your call on the sliders for the drivers seat. If you can get em freed up and cleaned up reuse them. If not or too much trouble then give Karen at call at mycorrectparts.com a call or go to nautiqueparts.com, they have them I believe.

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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 11:20am
I wouldnt bother trying to save those seat tracks. You can get new ones with all the mounting hardware for $45 from http://www.nautiqueskins.com/Interior_Parts___Accessories.html - Nautique Skins.

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Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 11:33am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

I wouldnt bother trying to save those seat tracks. You can get new ones with all the mounting hardware for $45 from http://www.nautiqueskins.com/Interior_Parts___Accessories.html - Nautique Skins.


Ya probably good advice. I have already spent about an hour messing with them. Maybe I will hit them with the torch and see if they free up. If not, in the trash.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 11:34am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

I too would flip the ring gear, clean the other edge, just sent a full drum of those incased dampers to the scrap yard. did you say you were near Mohawk?
an air hammer with a flat bit does wonders on the ring gear


Ya I am about a half hour from mohawk.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 12:17pm
I am working on ordering some parts and supplies. I plan to get all my fiberglass from US composites so Ill just call them and work out what I need. How much CPES do you think I should get? I was planning on getting the cold weather formula.

Also, I was planning on cleaning up and painting the engine while it is out. Any reccomendations on this? Are the rattle can engine paints ok? I want something that will hold up and not come off if some gas drips on it or something.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: bbishop1974
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 12:25pm
hey justin,iam about 2 weeks ahead of you.i used the pcm paint from skidim,very tough and perfect match.i heard you cant get anymore?how are you rebuilding?wood?foam?


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 1:19pm
Originally posted by Jllogan Jllogan wrote:

Maybe I will hit them with the torch and see if they free up. If not, in the trash.


When ours freed up so did the ball bearings all over the floor.

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Posted By: kytom2
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 1:24pm
I hate it when that happens!

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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 1:30pm
Dumb question I guess, but what's that third tube, that looks kind of like an exhaust tube? I see the port and starboard exhausts, but there is another one that looks almost like a third exhaust next to the drive-shaft.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 1:38pm
Blower vent.

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Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 1:41pm
I am planning on basically putting it back like it was. Doug fir, foam. I am no engineer so I feel it is best for me to just do it like it was since I am opening a can a worms I dont understand by trying to change anything. It lasted 25 years and I figure with epoxy and cpes this should last even longer.

I have kicked around the idea of a wood floor with a layer of glass over it. I am no fiberglass expert and I think this may be cheaper. Maybe this is a mistake though as the wood would likely not last as long as just glass.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 1:41pm
Uh-huh! Thanks.


Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 1:59pm
Originally posted by Jllogan Jllogan wrote:

I think the piece laying to the left was an attempted repair. Can can anyone confirm this? I think the piece around the pylon is part of the rest of the floor on other stringer jobs I have seen


Justin - I'm just ripping into my 1984 SN 2001 and have found that same piece. I guess it isn't a repair attempt. I thought the same thing. It really looks out of place and the screws seemed like something they wouldn't have used at the factory. I'll have some more pics this weekend to compare.

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- Jeff
1999 Ski Nautique


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 2:09pm
Originally posted by Jllogan Jllogan wrote:


I think the piece laying to the left was an attempted repair. Can can anyone confirm this? I think the piece around the pylon is part of the rest of the floor on other stringer jobs I have seen



Not a repair. The cradle goes in after all the glassing is done, so that plywood covers it up before the carpet goes down.

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Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 2:16pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Originally posted by Jllogan Jllogan wrote:


I think the piece laying to the left was an attempted repair. Can can anyone confirm this? I think the piece around the pylon is part of the rest of the floor on other stringer jobs I have seen



Not a repair. The cradle goes in after all the glassing is done, so that plywood covers it up before the carpet goes down.


Yes apparently not, it was very strang as it had 3 screws in it? two on one side and one on the other, seemed weird at first but I guess thats how they roll at CC circa 1986.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 2:30pm
You still may have had a repair in that area, factory or not, but a board is supposed to be there.

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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 2:32pm
CC didnt start incorporating the floor around the pylon into the rest of the glassed-over floor until '89, Im guessing. Thats how my '90 was built, anyways. Like HW said, all cradled Ski Nautiques from '80-88 will have that removable piece. The newer/wider tabbed cradles that CC started using in '89 are notched to slide easily below the floor on the newer boats.

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Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-23-2011 at 8:55pm
I got my perfect pass parts today, so I will have to add that to the winter to do list. I think I am going to make a custom addon console to hold it to the bottom right of the instrument panel. I dont want to take out one of my original speedos.


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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: seacamper
Date Posted: November-25-2011 at 12:57am
That is a serious winter project. I love pics. Keep them coming.

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1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow
1969 Seacamper Houseboat
1986 Harris Pontoon
2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard
1999 Adventurecraft


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-25-2011 at 5:31pm
ya, we dont joke around at the logan house!

So this mornign while my wife was shoppig my buddy and me gutted the boat. No surprise, saturated foam and rotted wood. Here is the photo documentation. Also I am so glad we did this outside!







The front of the secondaries are compeletly delaminated form the hull. I think they will pull right out.








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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-25-2011 at 5:32pm
we weighed some of the bags and according to our estimation there was approx 350lbs of wet foam removed.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: November-26-2011 at 2:36am
Wow. What a project.

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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-26-2011 at 11:29am
uckin fugly

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-26-2011 at 3:13pm
ya, it felt really good to get all the wet foam and rotted wood out. Then I went through about 25 gallons of warm soapy water to get 25 years of grease and oil out of the bilge. Buts its all dried out now, waiting in the garage for the fiberglass supplies and for me to go wood shopping.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-27-2011 at 12:31am
Ok so I am planning on calling us composites this next week and placing my order for fiberglass supplies. I was planning on doing the floor as original but wrapping all the stringers in fiberglass, treating all wood with CPES and using epoxy resin. However I was reading another thread where someone did a plywood floor and no foam. I like the idea of this but my question is would this need cross bracing of some kind. I am planning on doing the glass and foam unless someone thinks no foam and a wood floor would be better, cheaper or easier.

Also I was planning on treating the old piece of removeable floor with CPES should I just brush it on?

I am guessing us composites will have recommendations on how many layers of cloth to use and how much resin? I have seen some people do 5 layers of layup for the floor. Does anyone know how many layers where original from the factory? Seems more like 2 or 3

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-27-2011 at 11:17am
not that it matters, but im anti-foam, I see no benefit from it
On a FN, I would foam only for the reason of not seeing the shoreline

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: November-27-2011 at 11:50am
Originally posted by Jllogan Jllogan wrote:

Also I was planning on treating the old piece of removeable floor with CPES should I just brush it on?



You mean the piece behind the motor? It's probably black with mold and oil and I wouldn't hesitate to replace it with new.

As for CPES, it is almost as thin as water, just brush it on with cheap disposable chip brushes (harbor freight, box of 12. 3" for $5.99) Make sure you give it 2 good coats wet on wet , don't let it dry between coats. On plywood edges you could even give an extra helping.


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Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-27-2011 at 4:47pm
Yes that piece, it is I. Surprisingly good shape. It's not moldy at all it does have some oil on it. I was planning on sanding it then treating with cpes.

I guess what I am worried about changing the design I am not sure I am knowledgeable enough to effectively brace the floor. I know I can redo like it was done but it is tempting because I also think no foam will be cheaper

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-27-2011 at 8:59pm
Ok so, I am still tentatively planning on going original on the floor, but keeping the wood floor with no foam on the table. For the original floor it looks like there was about 1/4 inch of fiberglass. Will the 5 gallon kit of epoxy resin be enough?

also planning on ordering 2 16 lb kits of foam.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 9:19am
needless to say you guys, but your boats have probably spent more time soggy than not soggy, so you cant say it lasted 25 years, 15 i would agree with

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 11:36am
yes well it didnt fall apart or rot in two so I guess if you count that as lasting then it lasted. The main stringers are still solid no rot. just the secondaries rotted at the tops, bottoms are still solid where it didnt delaminate. However, its all coming out.

Eric, since you are a no foam guy, if I went with a plywood floor and no foam how much extra reinforcement do you think the floor would need?

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 12:56pm
Justin,
Eric may not be back on site till the morning so I'll jump in here. 1/2" or if you are worried. 5/8" ply with a layer of glass on both sides is fine with the original stringer layout.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 1:36pm
Pete, I am assuming he's asking about what type of additional supports may be required below the floor in order to replace the strength of the foam. I believe both Joe and Gundriver added ribs spaced every 12-18" on their foamless 2001 rebuilds.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 2:12pm
Tim,
My Tique did not have any extra supports and it has 5/8". It is solid! Think about a common floor with the joists typically on 16" centers, the stringers in our hulls are closer than that.

The only place I may add extra, is the panel aft of the engine.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 2:22pm
Pete, the support is not only for the floor, but for the hull. The smaller, thicker hull boats can get away with fewer supports. Im willing to bet that the 2001 cant- I know the BFN and my '90 oilcanned badly without the foam.

As far as your floor joist analogy goes, thats a bit of a stretch. Without the foam or other structural members (besides the stringers), there are gaps larger than 16" (forward of where the secondaries end), and the entire length of the floor would be cantilevered outbound of the secondaries... you dont see that much in home floor construction.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 2:39pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Pete, the support is not only for the floor, but for the hull. The smaller, thicker hull boats can get away with fewer supports. Im willing to bet that the 2001 cant- I know the BFN and my '90 oilcanned badly without the foam.

As far as your floor joist analogy goes, thats a bit of a stretch. Without the foam or other structural members (besides the stringers), there are gaps larger than 16" (forward of where the secondaries end), and the entire length of the floor would be cantilevered outbound of the secondaries... you dont see that much in home floor construction.

Tim,
We are talking floor and not hulls! Cantilevered? Not really if the floor is glassed to the hull sides. Now, I want you to go down into you basement and see if there is any blocking between the 16" supporting the subfloor.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 2:50pm
I just checked the basement- I could not find any ply (floor) cantilevered beyond the outermost floor joist!    For some reason, the builders saw fit to support the floor all the way to the edge? Even on the smaller boats with sufficiently strong hulls (and no ribs required), Id be blocking the floor at the edge.

And yes, we're talking about the floor, but we're talking about the hull, too. Have you ever set foot in a gutted 2001 (or newer)? The hull is very thin, and the spans between supports (stringers) is quite large, in some areas. Ask Joe what he thinks!

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Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 4:19pm
yes the ribbing is what I was asking. Sounds like I could go without but Im sure a few extras wouldnt hurt thats for sure. I guess I wasnt sure how precise I needed to be on the distance between them.

Still working on my shopping list, but I keep waffling on the foam no foam. I think if i go with a ply floor I will do 3 layers of fiberglass in addition, 2 layers of 1.5 oz matt and a final layer of cloth. I was thinking 10 oz but maybe that is too heavy. Then using a thickened epoxy for the mating and filet and the 1.50z mat to laminate the stringers and finish with a layer of cloth. I was going to start with 5 gallons of epoxy.

How does that sound for a start? Any big oversites or issues anyone wants to call out?

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 4:27pm
I am not convinced that you can get away with not adding extra supports if going foamless. Get someone smarter than me to weigh in (like Joe) but I would guess that a larger/thinner 2001 hull would need the reinforcement.

You probably dont need 3 layers of glass over the ply floor. One layer per side should be enough- if youre doing both cloth and mat, then alternate them. Start and finish with mat when you can (more importantly finish). At the seams, I would definitely plan to tape at least 3 layers, again finishing with mat when possible.

5 gallons of epoxy probably wont let you finish the stringers, let alone the floor.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 5:00pm
OK Tim, I'm thinking floor and you are thinking floor but also hull. You win!

Regarding the cantilever, maybe you missed this:
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Tim,
Cantilevered? Not really if the floor is glassed to the hull sides.


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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 5:13pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

I am not convinced that you can get away with not adding extra supports if going foamless. Get someone smarter than me to weigh in (like Joe) but I would guess that a larger/thinner 2001 hull would need the reinforcement.

You probably dont need 3 layers of glass over the ply floor. One layer per side should be enough- if youre doing both cloth and mat, then alternate them. Start and finish with mat when you can (more importantly finish). At the seams, I would definitely plan to tape at least 3 layers, again finishing with mat when possible.

5 gallons of epoxy probably wont let you finish the stringers, let alone the floor.


Ok good input there on the resin. I was planning on adding some extra supports if I went foamless. Just wasnt sure how many how often. So it is important to finish with mat? should I even mess with cloth at all and just mat both sides of the wood?

Also I was planning on using the aerosil cabosil as a thickener for attaching the stringers to the hull as well as for filet. Sound ok? Any cons? I think thats what skibum used.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 5:35pm
Pete, if that connection between the hull sides and floor is structural (and not just a seal) then the layup should be sized appropriately... not sure if 3 layers will cut it. Supporting the floor from below is stronger though!

Mat will offer a better finish than cloth. It holds more resin and offers better impact resistance- so it would be my choice for the top of the floor. Cloth, on the other hand, has a very high strength to weight ratio and wont take as much resin... that would be my choice for the underside. Aero-cab is a decent choice for bedding... I think Buffalo used it too. You'll want a high strength filler for this, so Aero-cab and milled fiber were the 2 choices I considered (I used the latter, primarily).

You'll need all of 10 gallons (plan for 12) for the stringers and floor.

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Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 5:55pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Pete, if that connection between the hull sides and floor is structural (and not just a seal) then the layup should be sized appropriately... not sure if 3 layers will cut it. Supporting the floor from below is stronger though!

Mat will offer a better finish than cloth. It holds more resin and offers better impact resistance- so it would be my choice for the top of the floor. Cloth, on the other hand, has a very high strength to weight ratio and wont take as much resin... that would be my choice for the underside. Aero-cab is a decent choice for bedding... I think Buffalo used it too. You'll want a high strength filler for this, so Aero-cab and milled fiber were the 2 choices I considered (I used the latter, primarily).

You'll need all of 10 gallons (plan for 12) for the stringers and floor.


Gotcha,
what do you think of the 10 oz cloth, do you think that 6 oz is heavy enough?

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 5:59pm
6oz is fine- it will make the curves a little easier. The 1.5oz mat will be significantly thicker than either.

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Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 6:53pm
now I called us composites and they suggested for on top of the floor to use two layers of the thinner biax. the 3/4 mat 12 oz cloth combo. He thought that would be ideal for workability and strength. has anyone worked with that? Is it easy enough to form on the corners?

Also I think I have convinced myself to skip the foam. Too many people I respect on this site say you dont need it (eric, pete, joe for e.g.)and the more research I do the more I think I should go without. If I pull a titanic I expect you guys to rescue me.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 7:38pm
surely dont go by what i say, but the advantages outweigh the disadvantages, ah I think you will see if you build the bottem correctly it will take a half a day for the cavities to fill with water, under the floor you build watertight bulkheads which will also serve as your gussets, with drain holes at the bottems

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 7:43pm
what if you didnt put drain holes in them and just made them water/airtight wouldnt that serve as a flotation cell, unless you had a hull breach (e.g. Titanic)

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: 67425ks
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 10:36pm
This may have been posted elsewhere but I always wondered if you could just order a metric butt load of hollow poly balls from somewhere like mcmaster and jam them in the compartments in place of the foam? If youre really resourceful (cheap) you could take your family to dinner at mcdonalds and steal as many as you can from the ball pit.


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-28-2011 at 11:48pm
Originally posted by 67425ks 67425ks wrote:

This may have been posted elsewhere but I always wondered if you could just order a metric butt load of hollow poly balls from somewhere like mcmaster and jam them in the compartments in place of the foam? If youre really resourceful (cheap) you could take your family to dinner at mcdonalds and steal as many as you can from the ball pit.


I saw an episode of mythbusters once when they floated a sunken boat by jamming it full of pingpong balls. It worked.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-29-2011 at 1:01am
I'm a no foam person after seeing how my American Skier with no foam held up.But I'm curious- is there no foam that will work? closed cell?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-29-2011 at 1:20am
well the foam from us composites is closed cell but they even say on their site that after prolonged exposure to water it loses bouyancy (aka retains water). Pete suggests using a spray in foam so as not to shave the top off and expose the cells. I have decided I am going no foam and wood floor.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-29-2011 at 10:17am
usually if you hit rocks your in shallow water, i dont understand the fascination of the foam thing. if you flip the boat the air will hold it up, if you stuff the boat it pops back to the surface, correct me if im wrong but does the coast gaurd require life jackets? are there guys out there that risk their lives by taking one of these boats deep see fishing 12 miles out?
hah,
I know its an issue that gets thrown around alot, but, I have not really seen a good argument yet on its use, one just assumes because it is in there from the factory that it must go back in there. to me real it was a design flaw and corrected as the boats matured.
if it worked well you still would see the same set-up today, evolution is the word im looking for

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-29-2011 at 10:56am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

to me real it was a design flaw and corrected as the boats matured.
if it worked well you still would see the same set-up today, evolution is the word im looking for

Eric, Im not following you... Correct Craft still foams their boats. They did eliminate the wood, though.

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Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-29-2011 at 11:07am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

usually if you hit rocks your in shallow water, i dont understand the fascination of the foam thing. if you flip the boat the air will hold it up, if you stuff the boat it pops back to the surface, correct me if im wrong but does the coast gaurd require life jackets? are there guys out there that risk their lives by taking one of these boats deep see fishing 12 miles out?
hah,
I know its an issue that gets thrown around alot, but, I have not really seen a good argument yet on its use, one just assumes because it is in there from the factory that it must go back in there. to me real it was a design flaw and corrected as the boats matured.
if it worked well you still would see the same set-up today, evolution is the word im looking for


Ya, it is hard to believe at first that it is a good idea. I spent about an hour on the phone last night with my assistant (my dad) convincing him we shouldnt put it back in. He at first was like, well if you dont need it then why did correct craft put it in. He kept saying what if someone runs into you and cracks the hull open or something, then I said if someone hits you that hard have got bigger issues. He came full circle and now is on my side to skip the foam. I think I am going to install some kind of drain plug in either side so that it can be air tight but I can take the plug out and check on it and drain if necessary. I think I have seen some guys get some fittings, Ill poke around the net but if anyone has a suggestion, let er fly.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-29-2011 at 11:17am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

to me real it was a design flaw and corrected as the boats matured.
if it worked well you still would see the same set-up today, evolution is the word im looking for

Eric, Im not following you... Correct Craft still foams their boats. They did eliminate the wood, though.


I think the coast guard requires all boats have a certain amount of flotation right?

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: November-29-2011 at 2:38pm
How about filling it with ping pong balls. Quick... someone do the calculation on how many you need.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/144-Ping-Pong-Table-Tennis-Balls-White-1-Gross-12-Dozen-/160658490140?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2567fe031c - A gross for $20.

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- Jeff
1999 Ski Nautique


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: November-29-2011 at 3:14pm
I just placed my order to us composites. Ouch, now I am poor

No money for pingpong balls thats for sure.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-29-2011 at 9:27pm
you gotta eliminate one or the other, so yes the statement is as stated, we are at the leading edge of seeing problems with the composites and the foamed boats 93 and ups....i believe you will see more problems up north here and more in the future.
logan, there called life jackets lol
I believe the law is 22ft and under from the manufacturer, after that not required, i mean at home, they wont board your boat and site you if thats what you are asking,
maybe the same as airbags in a car, allotta cars out there driving around with inoperable or no airbags in them

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-02-2011 at 1:00pm
wish I lived closer to florida for two reasons; 1. its freezing in ohio right now 2. shipping my stuff from us composites was 150 bucks. Ouch!

Picked up my lumber this week and I think I got pretty good deals on everything. My Menards had douglas fir in stock! Who knew, the pricing seemed good on it as well.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 12:14am
Got one secondary stringer out and started prepping and grinding the hull for the new one. It came out in one entire piece, it was barely attached to the hull at all. I lifted it out with my hands, but it wasnt that rotted.




These covers were in pretty bad shape when I got them but they are starting to clean up.


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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: bbishop1974
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 12:57am
justin,if you dont mind,how much was your wood order and how many 1x6's did you get?thanks


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 12:10pm
I got 2-12ft 1X6 and 6-8ft. We will see if that is enough. It came to around 150$ for those and the plywood. 2 sheets of exterior grade.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 2:58pm
Justin - would you mind sharing your cost for your US composites order? As you can see, I'm about 1 day behind you in http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22083&PID=306792&title=1984-ski-nautique-project#306792 - my project .

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- Jeff
1999 Ski Nautique


Posted By: Kristof
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 4:08pm
Nice work Justin!
And those valve covers look great, good job!



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- Gun control means: using BOTH hands!
- Money doesn't make one happy, but when it rains cats and dogs, it's still better to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle...



Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 4:12pm
Originally posted by ny_nautique ny_nautique wrote:

Justin - would you mind sharing your cost for your US composites order? As you can see, I'm about 1 day behind you in http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22083&PID=306792&title=1984-ski-nautique-project#306792 - my project .


posted on your thread.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 4:30pm
Originally posted by Kristof Kristof wrote:

Nice work Justin!
And those valve covers look great, good job!



they had some real deep scratches before but I wetsanded them while watching tv last night with 600 and then 1000 and they have a real cool brushed stainless look now. I am still debating on whether to buff them back to a chrome like finish or just leave them brushed. I am worried the brushed will not hold up as long or get dirty easier.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 5:05pm
Thanks for the info Justin.
Your 86 design seems to be pretty close to my 84. I notice in this pic of your project you have saved the fiberglass shelf that extended past the stringer and was filled with foam. Bottom left, just left of the bolt head.
Have you given thought to how you are going to re-create this without foam?


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- Jeff
1999 Ski Nautique


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 5:16pm
Originally posted by ny_nautique ny_nautique wrote:

Thanks for the info Justin.
Your 86 design seems to be pretty close to my 84. I notice in this pic of your project you have saved the fiberglass shelf that extended past the stringer and was filled with foam. Bottom left, just left of the bolt head.
Have you given thought to how you are going to re-create this without foam?


Yes, I will be replacing with a plywood floor with supports underneath. I have only temporarily saved the shelf to give myself a reference point as to where the old floor was. Once I have my floor, stringer and support fabricated I will cut out that shelf. I modeled my design mostly after what joeinNY did, except mine is wood instead of coosa.

I tried to save everything I could and do this job one piece at a time. I was worried that if I just gutted it and rebuilt everything at once I would lose reference of where things were. So I intend to cut and fit in the new stringer where the old one was. Check reference to the rest of the boat then install and start working on the next stringer. That way I can reference the other 3 stringers at any given time.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 6:10pm
on a slightly unrelated note. I have a question on how freely I should be able to spin my prop and shaft. I can barely turn it with one hand and there is a steady vibration as I rotate it by hand, accompanied by a fairly unpleasant noice. This seems like it could be an alignment issue with the strut. I have also read the rubber in the strut could be dried out. Any thoughts? I have spun it and tried to make sure the shaft is straight and to my eye it appears ok as I spin it. Maybe eric can chime in on this.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 6:16pm
Jlogan-

Probably will have my mill set up for manifolds in the next month or so. Your welcome to come over and run yours.

Tim


Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 6:17pm
Can check your shaft too. Also have the tool to remove the strut bearing...


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 6:18pm
If youre properly aligned, one finger is plenty- even on a fresh strut bushing.

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Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 6:33pm
Originally posted by watrski watrski wrote:

Jlogan-

Probably will have my mill set up for manifolds in the next month or so. Your welcome to come over and run yours.

Tim


Awesome!! Where you at? I am not in a rush on the manifolds but definitely let me know when its set up Ill be all over that!! You think its a good idea just to replace the strut bearing? Probably never been done if I am guess on what the PO did. That would open the opportunity to check the shaft.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 6:38pm
Justin, Just saw this thread today for the first time, looks like fun. I had no idea you were this far along already.

If you're looking for an extra set of hands, I'd love to come help, and as you know you're not that far away from me. I will warn you that I have little to no applicable skills or experience, but I have a real talent for things like drinking your beer, eating your food, and saying things like, "well that can't be good..." or "oops".

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bring the ruckus
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 6:49pm
Originally posted by IAughtNaut IAughtNaut wrote:

Justin, Just saw this thread today for the first time, looks like fun. I had no idea you were this far along already.

If you're looking for an extra set of hands, I'd love to come help, and as you know you're not that far away from me. I will warn you that I have little to no applicable skills or experience, but I have a real talent for things like drinking your beer, eating your food, and saying things like, "well that can't be good..." or "oops".


HA thanks adam,
I actually would welcome the company as I have been spending most of the time alone in the garage mumbling to myself. Demo was the most fun. you are welcome anytime just let me know when you are bored and want to stare and drink beer. Who knows maybe you'll learn something. Thats scary as this is my first experience and shouldnt be the one teaching anything. Maybe our next beers will be show and tell at my house.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001





Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 6:56pm
About an hour from Canton @ the end of 76.

Tim


Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: December-05-2011 at 7:00pm
Originally posted by watrski watrski wrote:

About an hour from Canton @ the end of 76.

Tim


cool, like out past wadsworth? Let me know when you have got that mill ready to rock and roll!

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001






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