Strut-Pro® Cutless® Bearing Replacement Tool
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24581
Printed Date: May-02-2024 at 4:36am
Topic: Strut-Pro® Cutless® Bearing Replacement Tool
Posted By: crobi2
Subject: Strut-Pro® Cutless® Bearing Replacement Tool
Date Posted: January-07-2012 at 4:49pm
Has anyone used one of these? I found a link on CCFan.com where it was referenced (http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22611&PID=284132&title=borrow-a-strut-pro-removal-tool#284132), but the thread ended with no further information. Because of the V-drive being in the way, I really don't want to take the coupler off and remove the shaft if I don't have to. I can just picture myself trying to get a 500 degree F coupler back under there without mishap. Just doing an alignment with the V-drive there is a pain. If it weren't for all the trouble of getting the coupler off and back on successfully, just pulling the shaft and cutting the cutless out with a hacksaw would probably be easiest. I can even see the possibility of obtaining one of these tools and STILL having to pull the shaft to get the cutless out. ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-07-2012 at 8:54pm
|
How hard would it be to pull the strut? Maybe an option for you. That contraption looks pretty expensive for a 1 time use. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-07-2012 at 10:02pm
I agree except you still need to get under the damn engine! 
My understanding of the tool is they can be difficult. The wall of the cutlass is so thin there's not much to grab onto. I have heard that when used to press the new cutlass in the chances of damage are real high. Pressing the old out, I have heard that they can get stuck in the strut. The tool must be kept in extremely good condition. This means you may only get a couple "presses" out of it before you need to purchase a new mandrel. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
SNobsessed wrote:Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-08-2012 at 11:42am
|
i too would pull the strut, not enough hands for that contraption,
but if you have a Walters up in your tug, it will have a split type coupling and easily removed once you loosen the pinch bolts, that way you can check the shaft also. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: January-08-2012 at 5:09pm
|
I really appreciate all of the knowledgeable replies. That's exactly what I was looking for.
I think that my problem is I am running in shallow water and was getting too close to a sandy bottom. In one year the cutless went from snug to slightly loose with the wear appearing at the bottom only, evenly from front to back so I don't think it's an alignment issue. Once I realized what was happening I stayed to deeper water and really haven't noticed much more wear in the past 6 months. I am afraid though that I will keep needing to replace cutless bearings more frequently than otherwise because of the sandy bottom. Hence the strut-pro tool. But I too fear some of the possible failures mentioned with that tool. The question I guess is "do I fear the strut-pro tool more than I fear popping the coupler off the shaft and later having to heat it to put it back on (underneath the transmission/v-drive). Can anyone tell me how the job compares to say doing the tie rod ends, pitman and idler on a car or say the ball joints on a car, or a control arm bushing? The job looks fairly straight forward on a direct drive, but getting down to it on a v-drive is gonna be real difficult. ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-08-2012 at 9:08pm
|
Maybe you could switch to a ARE double tapered shaft or a custom coupler (Eric's split type). Then it would be a pain taking it out only this 1st time.
I wonder if the new plastic strut bushings are more abrasion resistant?? ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: January-09-2012 at 9:11am
|
maybe the shaft is worn too and a new cutlass will improve, or not the play. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-09-2012 at 10:03am
|
the v-drive shafts are shorter than midship mount, so the alignment will be more critical ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: January-09-2012 at 1:18pm
|
Yeah, you guys are right. For about the same price I can buy a double taper shaft with coupler. And after doing all of that work upside down in the bilge, doing alignments might seem easier.
I guess if you're going to own one of these boats as they age, you probably really need to be able to take out the prop shaft at will.  That's why I posted this under maintenance. ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-09-2012 at 10:57pm
|
When you order make sure you order the removal tool for the coupling because it is not included ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |