Custom 1965 Correct Craft Mustang build
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24791
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 9:19am
Topic: Custom 1965 Correct Craft Mustang build
Posted By: Hussler
Subject: Custom 1965 Correct Craft Mustang build
Date Posted: February-04-2012 at 9:40pm
Hey guys, new to the forum and new Correct craft owner! Just won the ebay auction tonight!!!  Not sure if this is the correct place to post a build thread so mods, feel free to move it. What we have here is a 1965 Mustang with a 351w in it! Interior looks to be junk, stringers prob have some rot but the engine runs well and the hull is in ok shape. My career has been restoring interiors and hulls on all sorts of old boats, now I finally get to do my own! Anybody know how to pull pictures off of Ebay? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&item=130638411374&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-04-2012 at 10:43pm
|
NG,
Take some time to explore CCfan. Welcome to the site. Yes, we love pictures. Pictures off ebay? well, I imagine you would first need to copy them to your computer and then to the site. Please explain what you mean by "custom". Here at CCfan, most of our members prefer original. If you deviate, you may be better off at a different site. Sorry! "custom"  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: February-04-2012 at 10:58pm
|
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&item=130638411374&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT#v4-39 - proper link
Cool find, I think you got a good price but have a long way to go. Sounds like you need to start with the stringers, a big job you will want to do yourself but it sounds like you have the skills. Read up and ask questions. There is lots of experience, so no need to re-invent the wheel and no excuse to not do it right. Welcome and enjoy your classic boat. ------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-04-2012 at 11:17pm
| Welcome to the site. Looking forward to seeing your progress! You'll get plenty of help, ask away. |
Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: February-04-2012 at 11:19pm
|
looks like a good start to a project for the right money , good luck with it and dont be afraid to ask questions on here. ------------- former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: February-04-2012 at 11:20pm
Come on Pete!!! He's welcome here whatever he wants to do with HIS boat. That can get really old after a while. I am often compelled to extol the virtues of originality of OTHER peoples work but then I ask myself two questions. Is it my boat? Did he ask my opinion about keeping it original? If the answer to either of those is NO then I keep my mouth shut. I hate to crab at you Pete, because I consider you a friend and dont want to jeopardize that and I do really respect your passion for original and the fact that you have more knowledge in your little finger than I will ever have, but it doesnt give you the right to send people on their way who come to this site nor the right to pass judgement on others. ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
8122pbrosherd wrote:Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-04-2012 at 11:54pm
|
Thanks for the welcome guys!
As far as "original" goes that ship has long since sunk for this boat. The engine is out of a cris craft, all of the interior guts are trashed/gone and generally will need a everything tweaked to make it fully functional again. My current thoughts are: -New glassed stringers front to back -New 1/2 glassed floor attached with SS screws -Respray the engine Old ford blue, make the wiring nice nice, replace any ugly components -Bright red carpet -Full length dash facia overlay 3/8 ply wrapped in red vinyl -Tastefull aftermarket gauges -Looks like new steering box and a new mid 70's mastercraft style steering wheel in order. -Gas tank facia, red vinyl -Seats, prob full length front bench, maybe 3/4 bench with port isle way red. -Full width rear vinyl seats, red -Exterior chrome, keep all original, rechrome/replace the junk with OEM. -3M the windshield (prob hazed plexi, hard to tell) -Get rid of all the blue Suggestions are more than welcome! |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-05-2012 at 12:08am
|
Oh, and by pure coincidence my friend mike (I think his SN is whitelakemike?) has a 1961 american skier with a 302. An important factor is to make sure my boat ends up being the faster one, don't you think?
I will be picking this pile up around the 9th to 18th of march, we are making a road trip out of it. NY to florida and back! Any good sights to see on the way through guys??? |
Posted By: bhectus
Date Posted: February-05-2012 at 1:30am
|
Welcome! If you're gonna make a road trip all the way down here to FL, then you might want to postpone another week and drive a few extra miles for the SJRR event. Kick off your introduction to Correct Crafts in style:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22659&title=sjrr-2012 - SJRR ------------- '02 Ski Nautique 196 w/ 5.7 Apex bowtie - Sold '87 Barefoot - sold '97 Super Sport Nautique - originally custom built for Walt Meloon '97 Ski Nautique '83 SN 2001 |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: February-05-2012 at 1:53am
|
Welcome to CCF. A Mustang with a 351 will really move, and if you ever want to bump that up to 300 HP you'll leave your friend behind pretty quickly!
The boat looks really nice, and your plan looks great to me. The fact that you're going to go right at the stringers means you aren't worried about taking on the project, to be honest the prospect of a stringer job is pretty daunting for me. Where in NY are you? Joe in NY on this site is an upstate guy, terrific souce of info on these boats. Good luck! ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-05-2012 at 2:13am
|
Plus one on the SJRR pickup plan.. I would do whatever possible to make that happen if I was you.
She is gonna need a little work to be sure. Interesting engine though. I started with worse and paid more.. if you are anywhere near the fingerlakes area let me know and I will be happy to get together and tell you all the stupid things I have done over the years so you can avoid them. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-05-2012 at 5:52am
Unfortunately its my spring break and I'm dedicated to class otherwise :( On a side note, you guys seem like one hell of a group! What, 10 welcomes in a couple hours?? Hopefully I'll learn a couple new tricks from you guys and I may be able to return the favor. And yes on the stringers, despite what they look like I will tear them out anyways. I plan on having this boat for, well, ever! This will be the 20ish floor job I've done and at least the 6th stringer job. I'm very excited, I've never had a boat worth putting money into. I guess we should get this build thread started right, whats the swankest material I can make my stringers out of? I usually just replace with wood but if there is something much more bad *** I'd love to hear about it. Its always come down to price point with customers but I dont have to put up with that **** anymore! 
|
Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: February-05-2012 at 6:08am
|
Talk with Joe about coosa (sp?) stringers. He is the expert on cossa and horsepower. He has the fastest correct craft on the site to date, despite having a hull generally believed to be slow. With his guidance you can smoke that 302. ------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-05-2012 at 7:59am
|
Larry,
Come on, you know I need to always push my "keep it original" 
I welcomed him to the site and now that I've seen the pictures of the Mustang, I'm sure he'll be a great addition to the CCfan group. "hussler" Welcome again. Make sure you get at least your first name up in your profile. Once you've been around the site more, you will notice most here go by real names and not screen names. Yes, it's a fantastic group - none other like it!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: February-05-2012 at 2:22pm
|
A few pics were already in here.
Thread: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24679&title=1965-mustang-project - 1965 Mustang Project I have lifting rings. |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-05-2012 at 3:02pm
Hahaha check that out! Glad I got it for less than he was asking, that would have sucked if I paid more than what he was asking for it. I think it is a fair deal, he gets 1250 for a pile of ****, I get a pile of ****! Well heres the pics transferred from that thread, because NO THREAD IS GOOD WITHOUT PICS! 
|
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: February-05-2012 at 5:11pm
|
Looks like someone put some Seacast on the stringer in front of the motor mount. That's what that pinkish-beige color looks like. Take the Fram oil filter off and put a FL-1A on it. Does it still have the number ID plate on the stringer? It should be about where the water hose is laying on the stringer. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-05-2012 at 7:50pm
Guy said he would look for the plate tomorrow, after he gets the title from his safety deposit box I'll prob run a napa gold/wix. The stringers are coming out regardless.
Any suggestions for CC build threads? I want to see what you guys have built! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-05-2012 at 9:15pm
|
Jim.
Great choice on the Napa Gold or Wix. Best ones out there! Thanks for getting your profile filled in. Use the search feature and you will have plenty of reading to do with stringer jobs. Most are Doug Fir, some are composite non wood and I know of one that is LVL because he was in an area that he was having a hard time finding the Doug. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: February-05-2012 at 10:58pm
|
Pete i was reading that thread , not a lot said about those lvls what would your take be on those , pros and cons, ------------- former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go |
Posted By: mackwrench
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 1:11am
|
... Congrads to hussler on the purchase of my boat, "CC & Water" I have had this boat for 22 years, since 1990, and put a lot of hours on other engine, (302 LH) I was really looking forward to rebuilding it and keeping it forever, but life changes and it's better off going to a Cat like hussler, someone who has the skill to finish it right. After talking to him a few times on the phone I feel really good about the direction he's going with the boat as I was very attached to it and really wanted it to be lake worthy once more. I totaly respect some member here that think all boats can and must be restored to show level, but time has made that harder though the years, so hopefully hussler can do boat in his own style, use and enjoy this boat for 22 years like I did.....as far as what he paid, I can tell you that anybody that's bought a complete engine knows I lost money, but it's cool with me knowing hussler's going to keep this boat going.....I have loads of pics, but will forward them to hussler and let him decide what he wants to broadcast on the www...
But I feel safe telling the history of the boat as far back as I know. The boat was purchased new by someone in north Georgia(name unknown to me), a close friend I knew in high school bought the boat around 1980, it would not crank and when he got it home to Tallahassee Fl, I went over and helped him get it running, had stuck points, and exhaust manifods rusted though. We replaced points and manifods/risers and skied on Lake Jackson Florida for the next few years....In 1985 or so, My friend took a job in Tampa and moved to an apartment where he could not park boat. It was covered and stored behind a shed in my backyard for the next 6 or so years. Neglected and out of sight, cover rotted, boat filled with pine straw, and rain water, trailer rusted, and boat eventully boat fell though tailer onto ground. In 1990 I sold my home and moved boat onto present trailer, cleaned out hull and covered it, stored at lot where i worked. Around 2000/2001 I got the itch to get it running, discovered orginal 260 engine block was cracked and replaced with LH 302 I bought and rebuilt. Boat was skied and run pretty hard for the next 4 or so years as I had a home on a large river near Tallahassee. However after 3 summers, engine developed a rear main seal leak that, while not pouring, should have been addresed. My then 16 y/o son ran it a few weeks on summer vacation and (you guessed it) ran it low enough it spun a rod bearing. I removed engine in spring 2005, then in July engine was lost in flood during hurricane Dennis (only a mounth before katrina) but boat was not at same location. (it was safely stored at my home in Tallahassee...... ------------- NO LONGER A MEMBER |
Posted By: mackwrench
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 1:28am
|
....continued....After losing engine and related parts, like Holman moody front timing cover exhaust system, etc....Boat was put on back burner. Then in 2007 I again got the itch to get it running. At the time my dad had a older Shamrock inboard fishing boat that need a new engine as well. A search on e-bay and we together purchased a old late 60's Chris Craft Wood hull, like a 30 or so foot boat. Chris Craft had been repowered with 2 new 351 / 260hp fords. with 90 hours on each (engines had new gauge panels in engine room) We purchased entire boat for 3K. Boat was in Michigan and owner had lost interest. We salvaged engines, drives shafts etc... and junked rest of boat. I took the RH engine and my Pop used the LH... Engine was installed, transmission resealed, I took stainless plate and bent a 90 degree, bolted the plate though the side of stringer and used mercruiser big block chevy rubber insulated engine mounts, and all the other work that I stated in my for sale post. Engine idles very smooth, no shake, no vibration & I wish I would have had other engine on those mounts. I know there not OEM Show spec, but it's how CC should have built the mounts.. any rate,
I wish nothing but the best for hussler and I know there's a load on knowledge and passion for these boats here,I lurked here for years and used the site quite often for ideas and tips.... It's that passion the makes these boats the collectors ther are. I mean You dont see many 40+ year old Mastercrafts do you? Respectfully, Todd O'Neal ------------- NO LONGER A MEMBER |
Posted By: mackwrench
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 1:44am
TimD, Not sure about the seacast, and there's none on the stringers but the entire hull inculding under the floor, & all the stringers are that same pinkish-beige color....stringers are no means rock solid, and are orginals, but don't seem to be an issue, hussler's got that on his to do list. The yuky blue insides was painted on later.... ------------- NO LONGER A MEMBER |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 1:59am
|
Thanks for your contribution Todd!!! I totally forgot to ask you, the engine that's in it now, has it ever been powered through the water or just installed and run on a hose?
Don't worry about it losing too much of its originality, I'll salvage what I can and keep it very tasteful. I know it must be tough to sell a machine you've had for a long time, but once you see all the time and money I'll have to put into this thing it wont seem so bad LOL!! I intend to use this boat as she she meant to be used, for fun! I have driven cris'es, centurys, garwoods even a freaking dodge and while nice classics are fun to look at, it gets old soaking classics for customers just so they can sit all summer. Oh, and heres a few pics of the bayliner I'll be selling in the spring. Figured it would be good to complete the circle of life on this thread. 
Shes been an awesome boat but just isnt worth putting the money into the interior (slowly degrading) She has been super reliable over the years but its best is she lives out her days with a big family that can utilize such a monster. It was sweet owning a 50MPH sleeper but she just doesnt fit my personality. |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 2:13am
| Also Todd, I'm very thankful for your openness and honesty. It makes me very confident in my purchase. I have to drive a 15 year old Ford 1,400 miles for this thing, its best to get the idea in my head that there's nothing sugar coated about this craft. A engine that runs and no fist sized holes in the hull and it will be worth the trouble haha |
Posted By: mackwrench
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 2:14am
|
Jim....The boat has not been put in water with current 351, It has a "T" in the pick up hose to tap a garden hose and run that way. There is also a garden hose fitting at the transom where you can hook up w/o opening engine cover, take a look at the e-bay pic of rear, it's located just to left of swim platform support bracket, just under rub rail. You maybe want to look at /replace impeller, only because of time... The engine had ran the 90 hours in the Chris Craft, Depending on my load at work, I'll try and send you a video on your phone of it running in a few days...I have a load of pics, I'll burn to a CD and give to you...will be in touch...Todd ------------- NO LONGER A MEMBER |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 3:41am
|
Sweet, can wait to hear her rumble.
Stinger thought, I was walking through lowes and was eyeballing their composite decking, what do you guys think about using that stuff for stingers? It has a nice texture to it for the glass to grab, seams like it has good structural properties and should never, ever deteriorate. Not very interested in putting in any fir. I'm looking for max . Not really interested in that coosa stuff, they only sell it in big boards and I really dont want 400 bucks worth of scrap left over after this job. Ill make the floor out of ply but I really want the stingers to be composite. Never had a customer request composite stringers so this is all new to me. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 9:18am
If you spend some time using the site's search feature, you will find that using composite decking is really a bad idea. Using it has been dicussed as well as being tested. The bottom line is the bond is bad. Even using epoxy, the basic component is recycled PE from old milk bottles. PE is what's used for glue containers since the glues do not stick. "Structural properties"? look into the details - They recommend never going beyond 16" centers for the joists! I also feel if you looked at the flex modulus specs between it and Doug Fir, you would be in shock!!! You mentioned "customers"? Are you in the boat restoration biz?
Soaking? The only hull that needs soaking is a single plank on batten. Please, fill me in on your trade. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Maximal691
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 11:04am
| Where in the adks are you? Good luck with the project. |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 12:14pm
|
here is a little light reading, I think you will find joes very informative on the coosa.
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9543 - Buffalo's '88 Barefoot Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5409 - Skibum's '87 Ski Nautique rebuild http://freewebs.com/billsboatworks - (and his website) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12666 - aka's '83 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12301&KW=&title=water-behind-a-stringer - Wakeslayer's '68 Stang http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5635&KW=&title=a-351w-stroker-from-scratch - Joe in NY's all composite 60mph Nautique rebuild http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12717&KW=&title=79bfn - The Grinch's '79 BFN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13673&title=uks-78-sn - UK79's '78SN ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 12:47pm
Peter, I believe I was the one way back who recommended the LVL as an alternate if Doug Fir wasn't available. It's an "engineered" product so it's very consistent in strength. All the grain runs the length of the LVL and with the addition of the glue, makes it stronger that a solid. You can look at the charts and see an LVL will carry more load than a solid. It however must be sealed with a decent CPES treatment and of course an epoxy layup. Lagging engine mounts to it is not an issue since the grain is running the proper direction but, after drilling the pilot holes for the lags, they must be CPES'd and then sealed with 5200. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 3:33pm
I restore boats, just not nice ones lol. Mostly 1980's rot boxes that never get covered. Many of our customers would rather have their floors replaced for 2 to 4k then buy a newer 5k boat. I mean, I guess I understand the logic of saving a few bucks. I'm in a very... odd market segment to say the least.
We dont do any wood work (because ive never been taught :( ) but we are known for our work with the motors. We dont differentiate when hanging a wooden boat, they always get hung until we can come back and check on them in a week or so. When we drop 90% of the wooden boats the customer hasnt even come up for the summer yet! Its really just our way of making sure no leaks have devolved and that they dont sink while nobody is around. Heres a pic of one of my favorite chrises we take care of, I dont know what kind of bottom she has but she takes on water for a day or two, stops leaking fairly quickly. She drives like a schoolbus in outer space and she doesnt have the ability to plane off, but a cool craft none the less.  
|
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 3:57pm
|
I just got the vin off the hull from todd, thanks todd!
gt21t522981 Mean anything to you guys? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 4:00pm
|
Jim,
Thanks for filling us in. It sounds like you work for a diversified marina with the exception of no woodworking. That Chris looks like it's in pretty decent shape cosmetically but it needs bottom work. A double planked bottom is water tight and never needs soaking. However, they were all designed to have the outer planking removed every 10 years or so and have the canvas/bedding compound between the inner and outer planking changed. It's even in the Chris manuals!! Do your customer a favor and recommend bottom work. The "latest and greatest" fix for a double plank is using 5200 between the inner and outer planks. It never needs replacing! He sure has taken care of the waterline and above - why not the bottom? Bad advice about having to soak the hull??? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 4:15pm
Heres a couple pics of the typical kind of boat I would fix up. Marine ply for the stringers and deck with fibre matt for reinforcement. Cant remember the brand of resin we use, something through morgan      
|
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 4:21pm
|
wow it shocks me people will invest 2-3K in a boat like that!?!?! I guess it could have sentimental value??? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 5:10pm
Wow! yes, I agree that it's hard to imagine someone putting in major man hours on an old hull like that! Marine ply? Why? How long are you getting the sheets? If not long enough for the length needed, what are you doing for the butt joint? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 5:56pm
|
It must be less expensive to repair than buy another boat.
Pete, I know you're correct about the no need to swell up the bottom, but it seems back when wood boats were still in regular use, it was pretty common to see marinas soaking them every spring. I guess because very few people replaced the bottoms? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 6:48pm
Bruce, The quick answer is yes! However, replacing just the canvas and bedding compound wasn't that big of a deal. You did not need to flip the hull since if done regularly all that was needed was to pull the outer layer of planking and the reuse it. Sometimes the screws needed to be up sized. It's how the silicon bronze screw guys came up with number 7 and 9 sizes!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 7:22pm
I'm honestly not sure why the marine ply, its what my boss has always ordered so thats what I use, didnt even know of any superior alternatives? We buy 4x8 sheets, I havent found a boat yet that was assembled with any other size. That makes it very easy to copy the old design. I'll only change the old design if it was a defect that caused rot. 4x8 sheets are also "fairly easy" to wield. As for that joint I think it was 1/4 aluminum lap with grade 5 anodized self tapping torx. (I love those torx!) Usually if I had to do a joint like that I would use 3/4 ply lap but I dont think I had the space there. As far as that boat goes, we didnt even give the guy an estimate!! He said "make it look nice, I want grey carpet and red seats." So thats exactly what we did. It had no sentimental value, we sold that boat to him for about 1500 the year before. Shortly after we gave it back to him we had a storm and it broke free and crashed into his 35x mastercraft. Then I did some gelcoat work hahaha! |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-06-2012 at 7:58pm
Heres another one. This guy wanted it done in 4 days because he only visits his ADK camp for a week in the summer! That was a very tight time contraint. I had no choice but to reuse the carpet and it was a pain getting the anchor well port lined right up but it turned out nice. He just needed a quick patch job so his seats would stop ripping away from the floor. By the time we delivered it the anchor well was still wet. I told him to not put anything in there for a couple days, he said he didnt care and was more than happy to have his boat on time. Nice boat, wish I had more time for detail but he just needed it asap.
|
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 12:24am
|
Holy crap there is a lot of choices for stringers!! I had no idea it was so debated. Can somebody just tell me the best choice LOL
Cost isnt a factor. I only want to do this once, ever. I guess I dont want the stringers to weigh 100 pounds each either but I'm really willing to go the distance. I keep seeing doug fir, now correct me if i'm mistaken but isnt that what they build interiors walls out of? That really surprises me, the treated version isnt a better option? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 7:25am
Yes, Doug Fir is a common wood used for contruction but typically for high strength components like joists and headers. You NEVER want to use treated wood with any kind of resin glass layup. The resin and treated do not like each other so the resin will not bond. It may seem fine when first done but it will come off. Also, treated typically is of unknown moisture content. With the CPES and epoxy, the Doug Fir is a basic and sound choice. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 10:59am
If cost and schedule are secondary concerns, with strength and longevity being more important, that makes for a strong argument for a composite like Coosa or Airex PXC. An added bonus is that they weigh about 2/3 as much as wood. ------------- |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 11:13am
|
Hey Jim. What was the white I/O boat with grey stripe, a Checkmate?
You need to figure all this stringer stuff out so when I get a project boat I can send it to you to get re-strung! Good luck, you've obviously got the skills and experience to do this a lot easier than most of us (or me anyway). ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 11:56am
|
Properly glassed Douglas Fur will last another 40 or more years. Composite will last for ever, but I will likely only make it another 40 years ( 47 +40 = 87). Douglas will go into my boat.
Many of the guys have gone with a used or made a new aluminium cradle to mount the engine on. Correct Craft started with those in 1980. I would try to expore the possiblity of putting one in. FYI, Donald |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 12:14pm
| Your boat is a great first project boat. You can rebuild it without going overboard on the method and/or the parts. If you get into fixing up Correct Crafts, you'll find that there are other boats you'll want that will justify the "costy isn't a factor" approach. |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 12:51pm
|
If you are going for the best of the best there is no doubt that it is the coosa/airex option. It takes a bit more time to laminate together some stringers but the difference in cost between that and fir/plywood is minimal. Should you ever sell the boat a boat with coosa stringers is considerably more desireable. Yes the fir/plywood can be done well.. but if you are buying and not doing then you would have no idea if it was done well. Whereas buying the coosa boat the quality of the job has much less effect on the longevity. I personally think that the coosa is enough easier to shape than wood that it has real benefits in installation time for certain methods of reconstruction.
You can go fully foam cored but that is more expensive and time consuming than the coosa/airex. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 3:49pm
|
Joe,
Where did you buy your coosa board? Looks like about 430 for one 2" board and if it has to be delivered thats prob a 100+ shipping charge. |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 3:55pm
Yeah it was a checkmate. I think it had a 250 merc on the back, I had such a short time frame I didnt even get to put it in the water to try her out :( Thanks for all the compliments guys, I'm really not a pro boat builder by any means though haha. I hope to learn plenty of sweet new methods from you guys, I've already went through a majority of the build threads posted and wow, wish I had been given the time to give the attention to detail you guys have! |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 4:13pm
|
I would get set up with an account with Composites One if youre going to get serious about using composites. I believe the RI store is closest to me. Not sure where abouts in the Adirondacks you are.
You wont want to use 2" thick coosa. Your main stringers will be longer than 8', so you'll need to piece them together. By making them multiple layers of thinner material (Joe and I each used 3 layers of 1/2" on the mains) you can stagger the joints and maintain more strength over the entire length. You also get the added strength of the glass used to bond the layers together. Expect to pay in the $200-250 range per sheet, if you go that route. On a small 16' boat like a Mustang, I bet you could get both sets of stringers and the front floor section out of 2 sheets. If you go with a foamed (glass directly over foam) build, then you can probably rebuild that boat with composites for little more than it would cost to do a wood based build. A foamless composite-floored build would likely add at least 1 more sheet (maybe 2). The stuff is really nice to work with, so the only real downsides are 1)the extra cost of the material 2)the extra time involved with laminating your stringers together and 3)having to be really efficient with your use of material (see #1) so you dont waste much. For reference, here is our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16014 - coosa BFN build . ------------- |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 4:15pm
Well I didnt buy any 2" thick boards, besides the waste problem it wouldnt be long enough and you would have to use a big butt joint. I made my 1.5" stringers out of half inch thick sheets cut to strips and glued together, staggering the joints. Somewhere buried in ,my rambling thread the process is laid out, it has since been repeated a few times by others as well and is pretty well proven out. On a bigger boat I used .75" thick for the secondaries but on a mustang the whole thing could be accomplished with 1/2". I havent done a layout but I am pretty sure 3 4x8x1/2 sheets would do the whole thing including the floor (tim will correct me if I am way off base). And if $550 (composites one is about 180 per sheet of airex 24lb) is all that was standing between me and a wood free boat... well I know what I would be doing. Shipping can be an issue of course, the nearest composites one to you is in Rhode Island. I maybe heading out there towards the end of the month for my spring coosa fix though.. play your cards right and I could push some off the back of the truck somewhere around albany? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 4:16pm
|
Dammit tim! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 4:26pm
|
LOL. ------------- |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 4:48pm
|
Tim, Joe looking through your coosa builds, you guys are freaking nuts!! Nice work!!
I see what you guys mean about the layering of coosa, thanks for explaining. I was reading through some threads on this forum and others and it seems that the people that had trouble with pressure treated didnt use kiln dried pressure treated, the none kiln dried has about 1/3 of its weight water! I think the coosa looks like a great product but the more I read, a wood stringer setup really does last 30-40 years when properly taken care of. My boat will be about 100 years old by the time it starts to rot again! The original fiberglass will poof to dust before then lol! Again, you guys do beautiful work!! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 5:03pm
Kiln dried or not, it shouldn't be used since the moisture isn't the biggest problem. As mentioned, the resin and the chemicals in treated do not like each other. The bond fails. If you have been using treated or not, I sure hope you use a moisture meter. Kiln drying will only take the content down to about 13% and that's too high. What is the moisture content of the wood you have been using? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 5:10pm
|
Again, if your budget is really tight (and Ive been there!) then a wood based build certainly has its merits. Against the common "avoid pressure treated lumber" mantra here, I know of someone who has used it with good success in the past. Personally, I have no experience with it (at least in terms of boat building).
Then again, if you can be real efficient with your cuts, then a few hundred bucks spent on better material may be worth considering. Like Joe, I would have a really easy time justifying a $500 premium for coosa/airex on a boat I planned to keep. Especially if you could coerce the man into dropping a few sheets off for you! ------------- |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 7:51pm
I have no idea, I wasn't aware there was a range. A lot of my guidance has been second hand from my boss. Thats good, I'll know from here on out whats acceptable. What is an acceptable range any how? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 8:18pm
Jim, I suggest a % below 10. 8 is a good number. The last % points are the ones that take time. Good lumber should be sticker'd if air dried for at least 2 years. It depends on what part of the country you are in! A moisture meter is key. Sorry, but if you do not use one, I consider the work "half as**".
Tim, I do have a friend up north that way back when he first started stringer jobs, he thought treated would be a great idea. He did several and they all failed after one season (glass bond). Eric as well has had problems. If the wood is dry and you CPES it, they is no reason to go treated. I also feel that some shops will use treated as a shortcut. No CPES and they give their customers a "line of BS"!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 8:54pm
|
So with douglas fir you give it the cpes treatment before you glass it?
EDIT: I dont see anything about CPES being bondable to fiberglass epoxy |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 9:15pm
Jim, CPES is basically a solvent reduced epoxy. The reduction is to lower the viscosity so it soaks into the wood. Once the solvents in it flash off, it becomes an epoxy primer. Fantastic for continuing with a epoxy/glass layup or even great as a primer for paint. It's even used to prevent "grain suck back" on bright finishes (varnish on wood). ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 9:27pm
| Interesting so it makes it more conducive to sticking to fiberglass? Did boats come from the factory with this treatment? |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 10:01pm
|
Ok so sorry for flopping back and forth but I found this supplier that can ship a 4x8 coosa for 40 bucks and a half inch board is only 280 and will ship regular ups ground. http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/caulking-adhesives/2,659.html
Looks like these guys can supply me with everything |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-07-2012 at 10:10pm
|
Youve got more reading to do. As Joe said, you can get the 24 lb density airex (same thing as coosa, basically) for $180/sheet.
Hamilton is good- I purchased my coosa from them, but I would not pay $280/sheet + shipping for it. My costs a year and a half ago were under $250/sheet, shipping included. Pete, I wont name names, but the person in question has performed more stringer jobs than just about anyone I know. They've used the full range of materials (poly, epoxy, wood- both treated and untreated- composites, you name it) and said they got positive results with good longetivity (many years) out of the treated wood stringered boats. Like I said, I have no experience with it myself, but the source of the information was pretty reliable! ------------- |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 1:20am
This got me thinking, if you have pressure treated completely encased in fiberglass cloth and resin, is it that big of a deal if it delaminates in some areas? I mean, its not going to flake off, it will have the strength of the weave over it and the resin will be embedded in the wood fibres. The frame of the boat will just then be held in suspension, worse case scenario of course. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 7:15am
Tim, My source is reliable as well. Rebuilding boats is how he's been making a living for 30 + years. He's had failures and will not use treated. Next time I see him, I'll get some more details. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 10:35am
| The couple boats I've worked on did not have the stringers bedded to the hull and in many areas the glass wasn't adhered to the wood. It seems the wood provided the rigidity, but the glass held it in place without bonding. I don't think the wood was treated with anything, not even resin, just dropped in the boat and glassed in. Where would the failure be using PT if the framing is wrapped well enough? On the 60's boats, they seemed to do a great job fiberglassing everything in and there was no movement of the wood or the glass coming apart. Does the glass really need to be bonded to the wood? It wasn't from the factory. I know the way we did our Mustang, (everything was bonded), it will never be disassembled as easily as it was with the original stringers. |
Posted By: PAPA
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 10:57am
| Jim, just read your thread and congrats on the new boat purchase. I like the ideas you have for your boat, sounds like it would look really sharp. With the 351 weighing more than the original motor seems like coosa woild be a nice choice for the stringers since you would be saving some weight. If the cost isn't out of line for you it appears it would be a perfect fit for this build. Good luck and have some fun with it. |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 11:17am
|
I don’t know who Tim is talking about but I have used plenty of pressure treated wood in boats with poly resins, vinyl resins, and with epoxy. And I would do it again if they hadn’t invented coosa. I am just not a guy that can be trusted to seal every screw hole, thru bolt, and other point of egress. You can’t use treated wood right off the pile, it has to be suitably aged , preferably in sunlight. I also tend to mechanically score it but I have seen no evidence that once aged (which you also need to do before staining it ) that you will have a bonding problem. Tige was using treated wood fully wrapped in glass for stringers well into the late 90’s and while those boats are no correctcrafts they aren’t falling apart en mass either. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 11:25am
| Coosa seems like the best way to go, but does it make sense for every rebuild? |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 12:39pm
|
I dont think so, you can do a factory level job with wood and foam much quicker. The avaliablity problems with coosa can also add months to a project.
If you looking for a classic "parade" boat - used occasionally and religiously treated well both on and off the water I see no reason to go with coosa. If you simply can't be bothered to take exceptional care of your toys it is a pretty good way to go. I personally get my boat wet, a lot.. it is not that I like to ski in the rain mind you.. but if it is raining it might be calm. If I am at a party on the lake and a storm comes up I am not the guy that goes running to the boat to cover it or to head home. Every now and then if it catches on fire I even dump all the ballast sacks in the bilge on purpose. That being said my biggest issue with having to repeat floor/stringer jobs over the years was in boats that saw a lot of not only water but also significant pounding in the waves. Everything loosens up over time water gets in and then pretty soon you have a solid boat everywhere except where you need to attach the seats, or any other hardware on the floor. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 12:44pm
| No doubt, your 83 is deserving of coosa. You really use it and it gets plenty wet even when the sun is out. |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 1:06pm
|
I'm the same Joe. I know my '63 isn't kept up as well as I should, but that boat has been used really hard over the years, out in the rain a lot, wet from skiing for days on end, you name it. Plus, I've had it out in some serious rough water so what Bruce is saying certainly applied, it's gone through serious pounding at times. I think the stringers are still solid, but haven't looked that closely either. If I have to replace stringers in a boat I'd seriously look at coosa because I know my own habits.
I wonder a bit about 40 or so years from now. If you have a 40 year old boat that needs new stringers, do you put 30 year stringers in on the assumption that will be the end, or do you assume that with good care there will be '60's and '70's CC's on the water in the year 2050? Will the glass last that long? ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 1:36pm
|
Do whatever you want with your boat. But, I do totally agree with Pete on the treated lumber. Save the treated wood for your boat dock. The only reason I would ever put treated in a boat, would be only to haul it to the other side of the lake to build a boat dock. Treated is generally Yellow Pine and generally cut from the Heart wood. No matter how stable they tell you it is, it still loves to crack and warp. There are so many other excellent choices. Cypress and Poplar. ------------- Keep it....from sinkin' |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 4:41pm
Thanks! I'm very excited. Glad I have a good month to make this decision. Something I keep seeing about Coosa is adding aluminum or some type of spreader to the engine mounts, on this site and others. What property is the Coosa lacking where it isnt as load being/torsional load bearing? Its not that I am not willing to spend the extra on my boat, its just I want to feel the bang for buck factor. There has been many times with my Jeep where I wished I spent money elsewhere. If I can get Doug fir to last 40 years, wont it be my sons/grandsons problem by then anyways?? Well I'm going to visit my friends 61 skier and evalute how much Coosa I would need. If I can keep stringer materials cost under 700, I'll probably go that route. I mean, its a little boat, shouldn't take much. Joe, how many sheets do you think went into just your stringers? |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 4:53pm
|
Oh and heres a couple more pics, and a video of her running! Cant wait to hear her rumble in person!
(anybody want to point out things that are not original?) 
http://s560.photobucket.com/albums/ss44/husslerforever/?action=view¤t=VID_20120206_142036.mp4"> 
|
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 4:55pm
|
Also, The very most important key to achieving maximum bond with either resin. Is reducing the moisture content in the hull before attepting any lay-up.
Whenever you pass by a marina and see large boats with large tents over them, that is what's going on. They are drying out the fiberglass before barrier coating. Same principle with interior lay-up. Large boats spend 24/7 in the water, so does your ski boat on the trailer with wet foam. Moisture content will appear in your fresh lay-up as milky looking. Thus reducing the integrity of the bond itself. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 5:04pm
What ever route you go don't forget there are many '60's CC's still running around with the original stringers.If you go the wood route I think that your workmanship and material selection will be way ahead of the factory.I feel that the standard wood quality that was available in the early years was superior to the wood used in the late 70's & '80s.Combine that with thinner hulls and wet foam and there you go. In the early '70s my Dad sold the property that his business was on.I was 18 and had better things to do than disassemble some old buildings just to save the wood. To this day I can't believe the difference of that salvaged wood,little to no knots and close spaced growth rings. Go with coosa and you just might be replacing the gel coat before the bottom ever goes again ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 5:07pm
|
Non originals:
Platform Garden hose fitting Ski ring on rear deck Tri-tone Tape Old Trick Ski on dash Gauges Steering wheel Ski Mirror We have seen worse, so you're not doing too bad. |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 5:13pm
| And the Morse, but that's one non-original you'll be glad you kept. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 6:53pm
|
Not me,I'm looking foward to getting rid of mine! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 7:06pm
|
With all the gauges and switches mounted in the "trick ski" I fear that the original dash has been completely cut out or is riddled with huge holes to accomodate the backs of the switches and gauges. Could be a significant effort to restore, unfortunately, but maybe not that bad if you're good with fiberglass, which I do not do. ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 7:57pm
Joe, I was recalling one of our conversations where you basically told me everything that you posted. I know you put those camp boats through some serious environments over many years! I definitely agree that a coosa build isnt for everyone, nor every build. Its definitely more expensive, time consuming and process heavy. Ive got a budget boat planned with wood... but the keepers get the coosa (like the BFN). Toheejizown. ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: February-08-2012 at 10:55pm
I know that there are members who have cut up Mustangs.It would be easier to replace a dash using a donor. Maybe someone still has one- ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 12:33am
|
I'm glad that the dash isn't original, because I've already planned to get rid of all that ****! Black plastics gauges and steering wheel REALLY?
I inspected my friends American skier. Decided I'm going to make front and rear benches, full width. The dash is going to get a new fascia layover. Probably ply wrapped in red vinyl. Maybe a dash pad too. (I'm thinking 60's century style.) Probably going to get that 5 piece Faria gauge set, white with stainless rings. I have access to some really nice chris craft style pull switches for lights. I'd like to do a glove box in the dash but nobody has a glove box with a nice stainless facia :(. Might have to rummage through a couple marinas. I dont want any ******* plastic on this thing!!! In the american skier it looks like dimensional 2x6's for stringers, are the originals made out of doug fir? Even his exposed stringers dont have any rot in them, the far port and starboard ones. Not sure what you would call them. He found his boat in a dump with water steering wheel high in it. |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 12:37am
|
Yes Gary, While the chainsaw is running on Klotz racing oil. One might think about sections of glass that may be useful to someone else.
However the only items saved were a rectangle from the front deck (that is now a battery lid for Jess' 73 SN) and a Transom (without platform holes) |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 12:42am
| Also, what have you guys done to hide a sound system? I dont want any ricer style speaker system showing, but I want it to sound nice. |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 12:52am
|
DrCC, the mirror and exhaust flappers aren't original also. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 12:53am
| I have cheap plastic home speakers way up under the front deck, a 20 dollar amp/equalizer glued behind port dash with patch cables running to the ski pocket for a walkman. |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 1:00am
| You are right Tim D. Niether would be the 3" flanges or those canvas bow thingies that I love to remove and throw in the trash. |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 1:03am
They will be gone. Can't wait to have my canvas guy stitch up a beautiful new red cockpit. I can picture it now... |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 1:32am
| Ok so just a recap, the original stringers in cc's were made of doug fir? |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 1:38am
|
They seem to think so. They could have very well been Cypress. And they were 1 5/8" not 1 1/2" Where were CC's made ? >>> Florida. What tree is right there in Florida ? >>> Cypress. What wood is more rot resistant than Doug's Fur ? >>> Cypress. ------------- Keep it....from sinkin' |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 2:00am
|
After seeing my friends american skier, it has no rot on orginal 61 stringers. I'm starting to think thats good enough for me. If I bought the fir tomorrow that would give me month of drying time before I even get the boat.
Just regular Douglas fir? Pick some nice pieces out at lowes? Can you get kiln dried Also the CPES, that would probably make the new stringers Superior to the old just by the application of this stuff? |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 11:49am
|
Well there has been some debate as to the quality of the Dfir, Im sure someone else can elaborate on that.
I just got some at my local lumber yard and looks for nice straight pieces with few knots etc. I figure after all the CPES and epoxy resin and fiberglass I put on those things, it should be good for a long time. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 11:49am
|
does a mustang have secondaries like mine? I heard someone say the secondaries were just pine but I just got all Dfir. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 1:37pm
The american skier has secondaries so I assume this one does too? Oh and i dont remember where I saw this on here but I bought one of these to make fiberglass removal easier. Thanks to whoevers idea this was! 
|
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 9:52pm
| I have a lead when I can get kiln dried douglas fir. Is that what I should buy? |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 11:24pm
This is what I found at the yard today. Nobody could tell me for certain if it was douglas fir and if it was kiln dried. Pic of the label.
There was this stuff on top. Some boards had a red tint to them, labled "fir" 
These next board looked SUPER nice. They were also labled "fir", but no red tint! Any insight you guys can give? 
|
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: February-09-2012 at 11:29pm
|
You want your wood to be nice and dry. I am pretty sure all lumber is dried in a kiln. Otherwise it would take years to cure. The important thing is the moisture content. Anything under 10% is good. 8% s great. Pretty sure mine was right around 9 when I got it.
The CPES is a sealer but its #1 attribute is that it is supposed to soak in deep and basically plastify the cells in the wood. Just another step towards making the wood impermeable to water. That blade you have is key. So much better than traditional cut off wheels. Makes me want to do another one! BTW I love reading Tim and Joe's posts. Great guys with way too much knowledge! (if that's possible) ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |