Damn light grounds on trailers
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
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Forum Discription: Anything non-Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26054
Printed Date: May-15-2024 at 11:15pm
Topic: Damn light grounds on trailers
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Subject: Damn light grounds on trailers
Date Posted: May-20-2012 at 3:38pm
Since both my 15 HP Evenrude outboards from the mid 70's are trashed (way too many hours and no compression left in them) I picked up an extremely low hour 25 HP 1994 Yamaha. Anyway, it came with a Lund 15' and of course a ShoreLand'r trailer. It also came with light electrical problems!!  I believe it was Henry Ford who, saving a nickle started the practice of using vehicle frames as a ground conductor. It always seems to be the biggest problem with trailer lights. Any corrosion on the frame, at the light mounting bolts or at the tongue connection and you have resistance. Hunting down the bad can be time consuming and always a PITA. I just start at one end and clean every connection and then assemble using dielectric grease. Compounding the problem are the lights themselves. The lamp sockets aren't even corrosion resistant!! My other trailers have all been rewired but, they also do not rely on the frame for a ground. I wired them with a ground wire to each light. One more hint is to never use those damn insulation displacing T taps. Solder and adhesive lined heat shrink is the way to go on any T or butt splice. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-20-2012 at 8:39pm
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I hear ya Pete. Seems like every time I am in a hurry to hit the road, there is a light out that I have to trace down the bad connection. +1 on soldering all connections. I will have to look for the adhesive lined shrink wrap, never used that. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-20-2012 at 11:05pm
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Chris, McMaster has a bunch of different types. http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-shrink-tubing/=hmf7lz" rel="nofollow - adhesive lined heat shrink On the left, click on "moisture resistant" and "standard" and all the types will come up. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-20-2012 at 11:41pm
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Pete,it was also Henry who said parts left off cause no service problems I use liquid tape,putting a good amount on the soldered joint then use regular shrink wrap and wipe off the excess when thru.I never did like those 3m taps but something very similar was used at work,but single conductor wire is alot different than stranded. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: May-21-2012 at 1:39am
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you mean there was another method of splicing rather than 'beanies'? john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-21-2012 at 2:10am
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I switched over to LED lights too Pete. Wow does that make a difference. My only trouble now, is getting a trailer plug to last longer then two years on my winter trailers (snowmobile/wood trailer/etc). I have tried dielectric grease, wrapping them in tape every time I use them. After about two years they always seem to just rot away (pins fall out or break off), any thoughts for improved longevity? ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-21-2012 at 2:23am
You didn't forget twist and tube did you?? Where have you been? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
jbear wrote:Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: May-21-2012 at 3:01am
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yeah...twist and slip the little cotton tube over the wire...LOL! been off for about 2 weeks...computer finally froze up. Had to get my neighbor the guru over but he had to take her home. wipe job..reload and doubled my speed. works like a charm now. good for another 10 years or so. how's the retirement goin'? john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-21-2012 at 3:25am
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The days fly by just like when you were on vacation. Now that the Mrs only has the weekends off,I don't do much around the house then so I don't cut into her time off.I can do what I need to do during the week. I'll give you a call one of these evenings. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-21-2012 at 9:26am
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Steve, I've never had a problem with the actual trailer connections. On the truck or on the trailer itself? Maybe you got some later ones that were made in China? I do use the 7 way on the truck and then the 7 to 4 adapter when needed. I have had issues with it's connections and corrosion but some Scotch Brite and dielectric works. BTW, you can still have ground problem with LED's.  They still need the 12 volts. John, Beanies? So, you must, like Gary have a good stock of "left over" wiring supplies too! I get the feeling Gary has a lifetime supply of wire ties. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-21-2012 at 4:57pm
By going with LED's you remove the socket rot worry. Yes, all of mine are wired with power and ground, I never had any luck with chassis ground either. My connector problem is on the trailer connector on the actual trailer. I am sure they are out of china, do they make them anywhere else. Guess just have to live with it... ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-21-2012 at 5:33pm
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Steve, Are you using the little rubber cap that fits over the trailer connector? I have never used them as I feel they just trap water which leads to more corrosion? The same may go with the tape you are putting on the connector when trailering? Yes on the LED's eliminating the socket problem. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: harddock
Date Posted: May-21-2012 at 6:35pm
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I've had trailers that got a good enough ground off the ball itself. I always unplug before backing into water just in case waterproof isn't totally waterproof. Hot bulb vs cold water. Not good. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4487" rel="nofollow - 1998 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-21-2012 at 6:58pm
Kevin, I just when through the Ohm meter exercise on the above mentioned trailer but I started at the truck itself. Yes, there have been times when in a pinch without tools and a VOM, I've relied on the ball for a ground too. In fact, part of the troubleshooting I did was to test with the trailer connected to the ball and without it connected. Getting back to the actual Ohm readings, I got plenty of resistance (I can't remember the actual figure since I was just watching the analog needle) between the ball and a decent chassis ground. The combination of the receiver mounting points/bolts as well as the poor connection of the Convert-A-Ball I use I'm sure was the issue. I just went ahead and cleaned up the ground connection in the 7 way and the 7 to 4 way adapter. That's really where I found most of the ground problem. I also reattached the ground wire to the trailer frame. I've seen way too many of them ripped off leaving the only ground path through the ball. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: May-21-2012 at 10:10pm
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fisher plow harnesses are still made of brass I believe, i find here in new england that those flat 4 plug (galv ?) plugs make it about a yr or two. i followed my son the other day behind the landscape trailer and couldnt figure out why the lights god weird around turns ,, i finally figured out it was only grounded thru the ball.rusty at that. ------------- former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go |
Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: May-22-2012 at 12:10am
I bought extra harnesses and bolt one on the trailer tongue and when I unplug from the car I plug it into that one bolted on the tongue.  ------------- 66 Skylark http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out! |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-22-2012 at 6:38pm
Pete, I think your right about the cap, it keeps moisture in furthering the corrosion. I have just come to the conclusion that there is nothing you can do, but replace them when they rot away and the pins start falling out. ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-22-2012 at 6:41pm
Marty, trailers used in the winter up here, really have a tough life. Inevitably when you go out with a trailer in the winter you run into snow which means there is salt on the road. When you drive through that the salt (mixed in to the melted snow)sprays everything. I think the extra connector would work like a cap - but its a good idea for my summer trailers. ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-22-2012 at 6:43pm
I just finished re-working my brother-in-laws trailer receiver that now looks like dimples on a 6olfball because the chrome became completely pitted with rust from the salt. I have a single place steel snowmobile trailer that I have to sandblast or sand and repaint every three or four years (about every other time I change a connector -  HA!). At least now with the LED lights I don't have to replace the light fixtures(at least not in 6 years). ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-22-2012 at 6:45pm
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Hmmm interesting that I was not able to post the above due to spam filter. Apparently the word that describes the little white ball with dimples struck with a metal hockey stick shaped thing is a no - no. Who knew??? Pretty funny! ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: adamt
Date Posted: May-24-2012 at 2:19am
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Probably too similar to goofball. As you know, we're not allowed to be obnoxious to each other on here. Especially Pete regarding newbies! ------------- -Adam 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-24-2012 at 9:33am
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That's interesting on the gol***** idea! I believe it was yesterday when I was trying to quote "7gol*man" in a reply. I tried 3 times and it kept on coming up as spam. I finally eliminated the quote and it when through. I was wondering how Keith got rid of all the go** spam!! Adam, Come on, haven't you noticed I've been real nice for months and have been doing a good job at biting my tongue?  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |