Stringer/ Floor Replacement Lessons Learned
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26068
Printed Date: April-27-2024 at 4:41pm
Topic: Stringer/ Floor Replacement Lessons Learned
Posted By: Big Pappa
Subject: Stringer/ Floor Replacement Lessons Learned
Date Posted: May-21-2012 at 4:42pm
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I thought it would be a good Idea to start a thread where everyone could post up lessons they have learned when they did their stringer or floor jobs. That way newbies can read through this and learn before they made the same mistakes and have it all in one place. This is not meant to be a how to do a string or floor job but a helpful tips for when you are doing a project. What I was thinking was as you posted up your tips I will copy that into this first post and give you credit so everything is up at the top and easy to get to. Feel free to join in on what you have learned and give your best tips. If there is another section to be added just let me know what Category. Here is my list to get things going. Tools The 2 tools I used the most in my project were 1. my orbital sander – I used this in every step of my project from cleaning up the hull after grinding out the stringers, to shaping the stringers, to finishing the bilge, to prepping for the carpet 2. my Shop vac – This is a must for ease of keeping things clean and helping to be able to see what you are doing Get a prefilter for your shop vac filter. This will help to keep your filter from clogging up so much when vacuuming fiberglass dust. Use a bag on your shop vac. This combined with a prefilter will help keep the exhaust of your shop vac blowing somewhat clean air.
7” Grinder – Great for knocking down glass fast after removing the old stringers. Just watch it so you do not remove too much inline sander - If you are going for a straight and smooth bilge this will help you get there.
Grinding/ Sanding Harbor Freight sand paper is cheap and there is a reason for that, it sucks!! Go ahead and stock up on 4” flap disks (Coarse as you can find), orbital sand paper (From coarse to about 220), and sanding belts. You will go through them!! Wipe down with baby powder before grinding on the fiberglass. This will help to keep from itching so much. Wear long clothing in multiple layers to keep the glass dust off of your skin to begin with to keep the itch down. General Tips Kind of common sense but, If you are working in the heat and wearing multiple layers, Keep hydrated and take breaks to cool down. A fan in the boat to help move the air around works wonders to keep you cool on the heat. Go ahead and invest in a good 3m respirator (like http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/PPESafetySolutions/PPESafety/Personal_Protective_Equipment/Product_Catalog/~/3M-Half-Facepiece-Disposable-Respirator-Assembly-53P71-Organic-Vapor/P95-Respiratory-Protection-Large-12/cs?N=4294931418+5011378&Nr=AND%28hrcy_id%3AGS18V3SCG9gs_D2T0LX49FJ_N2RL3FHWVK_GPD0K8BC31gv%29&rt=d" rel="nofollow - This ) , it will work 10X better than the normal dust mask.
Do not buy the mixing sticks from US Composites. I did and they are tiny sticks that break easy, just run by your local hardware store and grab you some paint mixing sticks. They will work much better for you. Before you start your project cover the top of the sides and back of the boat with plastic, cling wrap, floor covering or something to keep the inadvertent fiberglass/ foam off. After washing my boat today I learned that I am going to have a good bit of clean up to do to get this kind of mess cleaned up!! If I had it to over again I would cover the entire top of my boat and the tops of my trailer fenders with this stuff. http://www.homedepot.com/buy/flooring/carpet/protect-it/protect-it-self-adhering-protective-film-for-temporary-carpet-protection-2-ft-x-50-ft-100-sq-ft-roll-73694.html#.UCvWo6llT0M" rel="nofollow - Carpet Protector Film
Use the thicker 9mil nitrile gloves. They do not rip no where near as easy making them last longer. Also use the Cotton gloves with the palm and fingers dipped in vinyl when sanding or cutting out the old materials. It will protect your hands and you can still get a grip on things.
Glassing Take your time and make sure to roll all the air bubbles out of your layups. Sure this will sometimes slow you down and can be aggravating but the end result will be much better. I bought a roller to roll out the bubbles and I made one as well. I much preferred the one I made, it seemed to work better for me. It did cost more to make, but I could also take it apart to clean though. Plan your layups, and have your glass laid out and ready to go. If you want a smooth bilge as a finished product, pay attention to the bilge as you are glassing and try to keep that area as smooth as possible. This will help you when it comes time to use the Fairing compound and actually smooth things out. Buy a set of sharp scissors dedicated to cutting glass. I went through a couple of pair of old ones, buying a new set would have saved me some time.
Stringers Use a diamond cutting wheel on your 4" grinder to cut out the stringers. It makes a mess but cuts fiberglass like butter. Taking your time when shaping your stringers so that you get them shaped just right for your hull may be aggravating but it is worth it in the end. Measure 50 times then cut once. Round over the tops of your stringers (all wood that is getting glassed over for that matter) with a router and a 3/8 or ½ bit, this will make glassing over these parts much easier later. Foam Using a router to cut out the foam for your wood braces under the floor works wonders and is fast. A Belt sander and orbital sander will make quick work of getting the foam down to the right level and smoothing it out. Just be careful not to sand off too much
Fairing Go ahead and get the Fairing compound. I tried to use glass bubbles to begin with and they worked, but the fairing compound works better and is much easier to sand!! Use the plastic body filler spreaders to spread the fairing compound. They work great and it is much easier to spread the filler smooth. ------------- http://bit.ly/Mghpvx" rel="nofollow - Big Pappa http://bit.ly/L4zRW0" rel="nofollow - My Project |
vondy wrote:Replies:
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: May-21-2012 at 5:38pm
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Excellent post! When I was doing my second old floor/stringer ripout, I really enjoyed using a pneumatic cutoff saw to cut the fiberglass. On the first job used an electric one and was in fear of loosing fingers. I didn't think to use a prefilter on my shopvac, but amazingly, the thing still works - bought new for a stringer job in '91, held up through a second job in 2000. Prefilter sounds like a great idea. Do lots of research. I didn't think to search the internet back in 2000 and probably reinvented a lot of stuff that I didn't need to. Internet barely existed in '91. Thumbs up on the expensive respirator-type mask- used one both times. Probably the most important advice is to keep dreaming about how you are going to use the boat when the job is done. ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: Big Pappa
Date Posted: May-22-2012 at 2:36pm
Thanks for your input!! Yea the prefilter helped a lot. Both with having to stop and clean the filter to get suction back and with dust blowing out of the exhaust of the vac. The only thing worse than having to deal with fiberglass dust is having to deal with your shop vac blowing that fiberglass dust, literally, everywhere!!  ------------- http://bit.ly/Mghpvx" rel="nofollow - Big Pappa http://bit.ly/L4zRW0" rel="nofollow - My Project |
Posted By: vondy
Date Posted: May-22-2012 at 5:24pm
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I got one of these for my dust vac http://www.oneida-air.com/category.asp?Id=%7bCC6B6F2A-E3D7-4F18-A53C-B5C357DFE131%7d" rel="nofollow - Oneida best money I spent. Probably saved me 2 dozen filters and countless time. I barely had to touch the filter in my vac this worked so well. The scissors are a good idea as well. I killed about 3. A few things I would add... Allow ample time, it will take forever. Be prepared for countless problems when putting everything back together, nothing never fits right. Expect to spend about 3 times as much, when your putting things back together you realize you need to buy this $50 part to make something work, etc. Never ends. Buy several boxes of chip brushes (harbor freight) and as many gloves as you can get your hands on. I probably blew through 300 pairs of vinyl/latex gloves. Respirator and Tyvek suits. Amazon has the Tyvek for about $5 each if I remember. Again, I would stress finding time and patience before starting. It will save you money, your sanity and probably your marriage  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4645&sort=&pagenum=1 - 69 Mustang HM |
Posted By: ultrarunner
Date Posted: May-23-2012 at 1:37am
| Kris, thanks for posting such a great write-up. One thing for folks to consider for dust-control is to remote locate the shop vac, in addition to the pre filter. This will naturally require a longer hose, and possibly additionally capacity as well as a remote on/off, but not having that damn thing inside blowing all the dust around is sure nice.... |
Posted By: Metallman56
Date Posted: May-23-2012 at 3:05am
| add to the tool list a power plainer. doing it by hand with a file sucks, and is very time consuming. i picked one up tonight for about $35 from H.F, the cheapest one if could find. i got done about 3 days of work in less then an hour. a must have for shaping the bottom of the stringers!! |
Posted By: pmt2234
Date Posted: May-25-2012 at 1:19pm
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I haven't had any problems with the quality of my work in the 6 years since I redid mine, but If I did it again, I'd use epoxy resin. Wouldn't cost that much more, and I know it's supposed to be way stronger. Also, I'd look into something like Plexus for joining the new stringers to the hull before they're glassed in. I used little bits of glass mat stuffed into any gaps and thoroughly worked over with a brush. It took forever. I found the 2 part pour foam I got from Wicks Aircraft was way more flameproof than the old stuff I took out of the boat, and the new stuff I bought from a boat supply place. Price was about the same. When the engine and trans were out of the boat, I just made a frame out of 2x12 boards atop a 2'x4' piece of plywood. It worked great, just don't buy little casters if you want to be able to move it around much. Buy the best shop vac setup you can get, and buy yourself a new sander/angle grinder. I used a 4" for all the tight spots. I have a 3x24 belt sander I used where I had room for such a big tool. |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: May-27-2012 at 2:19am
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Excellent thread....I am in the planning stages for my Barefoot Nautique which I plan to start on this fall. This thread will provide valuable info for me during the planning stages. Does anyone have a material cost for the stringer/floor replacement using epoxy. I guess this would include the stringers, marine plywood, fiberglass, epoxy, Plexus, foam, fairing compound......etc. ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: Big Pappa
Date Posted: May-28-2012 at 2:10am
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I just learned something today. Before you start your project cover the top of the sides and back of the boat with plastic, cling wrap, floor covering or something to keep the inadvertent fiberglass/ foam off. After washing my boat today I learned that I am going to have a good bit of clean up to do to get this kind of mess cleaned up!! ------------- http://bit.ly/Mghpvx" rel="nofollow - Big Pappa http://bit.ly/L4zRW0" rel="nofollow - My Project |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: December-04-2014 at 7:41pm
I could pull my receipts and tally them, but I'd rather not.  I don't know what plexus is; new product? Marine ply is 'spensive. Older fir ply will soak up the CPES-Clear penetrating epoxy sealer. You'll have to find a lumber yard that's been around a while though. There are many more tips in my stringer thread(from the good folks here on the site, not from me!). Search 'weeding the pumpkin patch'. Best wishes! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: December-04-2014 at 8:15pm
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Plexus is an adhesive, typically used with plastics. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: jimrogers74
Date Posted: January-24-2015 at 1:42pm
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thanks guys, new to this forum, and don't want to lose it. just embarking on stringer job on 2 nautiques at once! i have no idea what i'm in for! any advice on what other threads to follow, i'm all ears! thanks, ------------- jimrogers74 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-24-2015 at 3:06pm
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Jim, Good luck on the stringer jobs. Most find it easier than it looks. It's just time consuming. We are always around for any questions that may come up. Keep us informed and of course post plenty of pictures. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: forvicjr
Date Posted: February-17-2015 at 9:16am
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Stringer work equals plenty of coffee and beer to extend your capacity for patience. You will need plenty of patience.Think I blew through four or five cases of beer and countless pots of coffee.I also downed one bottle of liquor if I remember correctly.When done though its all worth it.lol http://s1324.photobucket.com/user/forvicjr1/media/Alan_Hale_Jr._Gilligans_Island_1966_zps8ufe5ucg.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- “Tact is the ability to step on a man's toes without messing up the shine on his shoes.” ― Harry S. Truman |
Posted By: coach'80
Date Posted: March-01-2015 at 12:45am
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Best tool on my '80 ski was a jam saw to cut the stringers. Set it at 3/4 of an inch above the floor and it left the "walls" of the old glass. This allowed me to fit the new stringers directly into where the old ones were removed. Found a used one and it was the Best $30 I spent! Mix small amounts of resin at a time in the summer heat. It will help pace you so you don't try to go to fast and get sloppy. Also, it allows you to get out of the boat and stop bending over so long. ------------- 1980 Ski new project 1994 Ski (sold) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-01-2015 at 7:34am
Randall, The jam saw is a great idea but the down side is grinding the old bilge gel down to the old glass. It's recommended to grind the old bilge gel off about 6" on each side of the new stringers to provide an area to bond the new glass layup. What resin did you use? Slow epoxy hardeners for hot weather are best. Also, if mixing large batches, use a roller pan. It spreads the mix out so the heat won't build up. It sounds like you had some resin kick on you before you wanted it to!  I think we all have been there and done that!------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Sleepyone
Date Posted: May-26-2015 at 11:08am
| When i decide or have to start this project i want one of you old timers to come spend a few months down south with my free Rent. But must work on Boat for food. You guys rock! It would be nice if someone could put a how to pamplet together for the total stringer floor replacment with materials and types of epxy and glass an etc. |
Posted By: BAT5
Date Posted: May-31-2015 at 3:51pm
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Hello all. I have a 1989 Nautique 2001, that I just bought. Boat has 329 hours on it, and seems in great shape. I am noticing a soft spot in the floor, what seems to be about 10 inches from the passenger side of the motor cover. (soft sport seems like it runs in between the stringers for about 18 inches.) Does this mean a Stringer is rotten, or could it be that the flooring in that area is weak or rotten? ------------- BAT5 |
Posted By: Big Pappa
Date Posted: May-31-2015 at 5:10pm
Your floor has rot, that is what is causing the soft spot. Your stringers more than likely do as well. I had a soft spot right in front of my pylon and right behind the drivers seat. Once I got in and looking at it all 4 stringers has rot in them. They were not completely gone in all 4 but there was rot that would have eventually rotted the whole things in all 4. I wish the best for you that it is just in the floor but I doubt it.  I documented the whole process of taking the floor and stringers out and replacing them if you would like to see it. Link is in my signature. ------------- http://bit.ly/Mghpvx" rel="nofollow - Big Pappa http://bit.ly/L4zRW0" rel="nofollow - My Project |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-31-2015 at 9:11pm
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Brett, Good luck with your stringer project. Make sure you post plenty of pictures as you go through the replacement process. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-31-2015 at 11:48pm
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Bat - Your boat has epoxy resin vs '88 & older had polyester. The epoxy is less likely to absorb water so your stringers may be fine. The floor is plywood, so the edges & holes let water into the plys. Search for the 'hammer test' on this site (from Morfoot) as that may give you some insight into your status. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-01-2015 at 12:05am
| 89-92 is vinylester (AME4000), not epoxy. 93+ is some sort of vinyl-epoxy blend (AME5000). |
Posted By: BAT5
Date Posted: June-01-2015 at 10:46am
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll check out the hammer test and let you know what i find. Appreciate the help. Thanks, ------------- BAT5 |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: June-29-2015 at 10:48am
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83 2001, Im going with coosa board for stringers and floor. No foam. through bolt engine cradle and use blind nuts welded to a plate. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: July-22-2015 at 3:47pm
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Would be nice if those who have done the stringer and floor job to post how its holding up and performing. Im especially interested in the composite jobs to see how much weight was saved and how the job is holding up. also it would be a good idea for someone to make and save templates for the stringers. for forum members to use. In my case there was No wood left in the main stringers at all and due to condition of the rest it is a little difficult to make a good template. My main stringers broke up in a few pieces through removal. Im going to set them in place again and glass the fragments together then make a template. if its good, ill save it. Glass the cardboard so it will last and offer it up. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-22-2015 at 5:03pm
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If you were to attend a reunion you could see them first hand I know they have made appearances at the Astor river run in the past. I will leave them to answer but I believe weight savings was not why they chose composite. You will save some weight though removing the soaked foam! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-22-2015 at 5:15pm
| It's about 20-30% lighter and I'm not complaining about that. Still solid as a rock ~5yrs later. Joe's is the same- we're not particularly easy on our boats. We did use epoxy and a generous glass and bulkhead schedule though. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-22-2015 at 7:36pm
Would you like the template to include the beveling needed too? How about laser scanning a bare hull, develop it on a CAD program that's compatible with a CNC router and throw the wood at it!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: February-23-2016 at 10:51am
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Food for thought after doing a stringer and floor replacement on my 89 Nautique 2001. There are 2 types of fiberglass shops. One's that have burnt down and one's that will... Do your research on the resin that you buy. Some boats were made out of SMC fiberglass and standard resins do not stick to them. Cheaper is not better. The cheaper variations, available at most box stores and marina's, have a filler comparable to limestone mixed into the resin. This makes wetting your fiberglass mat very difficult compared to the higher quality resin. I used about 6 gallons of resin and an entire roll of mat. 3.5ft wide by 50 ft long? or longer... You will burn through a lot of material and a lot of rubber gloves. I went through 2000 pairs of rubber gloves by the time I was completed... Paper Dixie cups are great for mixing and they are cheap. Don't use plastic... They tend to melt. Fiberglass creates heat as the chemical reaction occurs. The combination of warm ambient air temperatures, atomized solvents in the air and high reaction temperatures can make a recipe for disaster. Be careful, Make sure you have enough ventilation and if you can afford them sparkless tools, and heaters. Ye old torpedo furnace isnt recommended. Your boat will have open cell foam used in its construction. Replace it with closed cell expanding foam. 2lb foam is fine. Your boat will be much stronger and will n ever sink.... Some basic protective equipment makes you look like a huge dork but will make your job a little more tolerable. Throwaway jumpsuit, tape the legs and arms closed if you have to, comfortable respirator and goggles to keep the fumes out of your eyes. It gets pretty thick in the bottom of the hull after glassing the floor together. Cardboard templates are a lifesaver before cutting into that $60 sheet of marine grade plywood. Use bondo or similar filler to round inside corners or anything else to help the fiberglass lay down. Fiberglass mat does not like sharp angles. This will ultimately make the repair stronger and more reliable. After applying filler to the inside corners take the glossy surface back off before applying fiberglass. The resin won't stick to a glossy surface. Same goes for the old fiberglass. If the surface is glossy or dirty the new stuff will not stick and you are wasting your time. Do your prep work! Seriously consider hanging your boat during this process. If your boat is on the trailer the hull will deform as you remove structural components. Hanging the boat with the hooks designe by Correct Craft will allow the hull to relax. Lastly. Get creative and make your boating life easier. Move that battery compartment out from underneath the bow. Put a cup holder in the floor by the drivers seat. Yes they fit. trust me on this one. Congrats. you are now qualified to replace stringers... p.s. 3m 80 grit 8 inch grinding disks fit on your high speed buffer with a cheap adapter. 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-23-2016 at 11:47am
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Daniel, Yes, certain components with glassing are pretty flammable but why do you feel that all glass shops are doomed to burn? You speak of resins generically. The typical recommendation here is to use epoxy resins when doing a stringer job. Have you been using polyester? I'm curious as to why you feel open cell foams will be encountered? To my knowledge, they haven't been used in many years by most since the 50's. Who is using SMC on complete hulls? I know there are small components made using the process but I'm not aware of complete hulls? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: February-23-2016 at 7:03pm
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Not sure the wax on dixie cups won't dissolve into the resin. I cut off the tops of beer cans (doesn't take much), for mixing cups. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: February-23-2016 at 7:46pm
| it doesn't. i went through about 5 sleeve of them... 8 or 10 oz worked well for me. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-23-2016 at 8:34pm
Daniel, How do you know the coating doesn't affect the resin? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-23-2016 at 8:56pm
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I prefer to use http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2101&familyName=Plastic+Paint+Pails" rel="nofollow - mixing cups that are designed for the job. The extra cost far outweighs taking a chance that a coating in a cheap cup may come off contaminating a resin and ruining all the time, effort and cost in a repair. The nice thing about these cups is once the resin is cured, it will pop right out of the cup so the cup can be used again. Chris, Make sure you rinse that beer out before mixing up the resin. You sure wouldn't want any disbonding! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: February-23-2016 at 11:00pm
I always thought beer was a great bonding agent  ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-23-2016 at 11:34pm
Daniel, How about posting some pictures of your stringer/floor job? Pictures are always welcome and certainly a benefit for anyone who needs to do the job and hasn't ever done it before. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 11:22am
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That sentence is more of a word of warning than anything for the people who are new to fiberglass. Small projects or repairs are pretty safe all in all. When you get into reglassing an entire floor in a 20ft boat in let's say a 2 or even 3 car garage it doesn't take long for the fumes to become overwhelming. With proper ventilation and heating fiberglass is very safe. Most people opt for the epoxy resin over the polyester resin. I personally used a high quality polyester resin purchased in bulk from a friend who owned a fiberglass tonneau cover company for 15 years. Most of my knowledge on fiberglass came from this gentleman. My point was to make people do their research before purchasing something. Marina's charge an arm and a leg for the same products you can buy elsware for a 1/4 the cost. For most repairs high quality polyester resin is more than sufficient. Stringers are a major project. Anything to make it easier should be considered. ill street composites was a good source for fiberglass related products. Smc is rare to say the least but it is still out there. Just something to consider depending on the age of your boat and the repair being performed. I hate doing things twice... Closed cell vs open cell expandable foams. You can still purchase open cell expandable foam Don't use this stuff.. In the 80's open cell foams were commonly used in recreational boats. They were great at keeping boats afloat in emergencies but they are also great at absorbing and holding water. This is partially the reason your stringers are rotting out. Closed cell foam forms a "skin" around each air bubble that is less likely to hold water. When I removed the foam from my 89 i could wring out the chunks like a sponge. There was probably an extra 1000 lbs in overall added weight to the boat. when completed with repairs I actually gained 9 mph. All good questions... Hope that clears up a little bit of it.
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Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 11:37am
| Well i am not a chemical engineer so i cannot say 100% that the wax coating had no effect on the resin. I would advise anyone to do a spot check if using anything other than a dedicated fiberglass mixing cup. You are correct in warning about the liner. Ideally a plain paper mixing cup should be used. I found these difficult to come by on short notice. I checked with a friend, he ran a fiberglass shop for 15 years, and in short gave me the ok on a bees wax lined cup...Avoid synthetic lined cups. For larger mixes I used plenty of plastic mixing cups. After a few uses i did find it difficult to get the cups clean enough for my liking and ended up tossing them. http://www.carbonfiberglass.com/Supplies-Tools/Mixing-Tools The measuring cup at the top of the page is a lifesaver... |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 12:35pm
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Daniel, Thanks for filling in the blanks as well as posting the pictures.  Earlier it was mentioned that epoxy resins seem to be the recommended choice. Couple benefits are they bond better, are higher strength and they don't smell as bad polyesters. Also, an important benefit is epoxy isn't hygroscopic like polyesters are. Wet foam isn't the only thing that contributes to getting moisture into the wood. Polyester being hygroscopic certainly isn't a factor when you are making tonneau covers. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 1:22pm
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Hygroscopy (etymology and pronunciation) is the ability of a substance to attract and hold water molecules from the surrounding environment. This is achieved through either absorption or adsorption with the absorbing or adsorbing substance becoming physically changed somewhat Surprisingly enough this was an issue with tonneau covers. Between temperature extremes and stagnant moisture from above and below the cover it was something that was considered. Early on they had problems with the core used in their covers. I wouldn't hesitate to use polyester resin again. I think there are definitely pro's and con's to both. I will see if i can get some better photo's to post. The file uploader was being a bit fussy. The finished product is listed for sale on this site. search for the listing in coldwater mi... |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 1:37pm
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6gal for an entire stringer job? Sounds like 1/3 to 1/2 as much resin as is typically needed for a stringer/floor job. Just mat, no cloth? Curious about the glass schedule you used, sounds lighter than most here use? Fillets on corners is a great recommendation, not sure bondo would make my list of recommendations though. Certainly better than no fillet I suppose. If you haven't used epoxy before, you may be amazed at the difference in fumes and ease of working. I've used both and found poly (and vinyl) more sensitive/temperamental to environmental conditions, less than perfect mixing, etc. Good tips though, certainly more than one way to tackle this beast... |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 1:47pm
I misspoke on the mat.... i used cloth...  Bondo was used because it is the same basic makeup of fiberglass minus the cloth or mat.... They work well together chemically as well as physically. The total of resin used is an estimate. This was done about 2 years ago and a lot of beer was drank in the mean time.
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Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 1:53pm
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im on the other end of the scale with 25g of vinyl ester resin in the floor, stringers and other repairs and modifications. im waaay overkill with glass and resin. no data on how much to use when converting to coosa board though. well it will never break .......... |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 2:37pm
Cloth makes more sense as that won't soak up nearly as much resin as mat. 6gal still seems to imply a pretty light layup. Bondo is poly based- so if you're correct that it is compatible with poly resin. If using it with epoxy, care needs to be taken as poly doesn't stick well to epoxy (epoxy on the other hand sticks to all of the above). Bondo is just a thickened resin- and the thickener is not high strength. There are other thickeners available of varying strength and ease of working that may be more suitable depending on the application. |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 2:57pm
| correct, bondo is not a structural component rather a means to fill air gaps that could form and allow the cloth/resin combo to be as strong as it should be. nor is bondo a glue.... |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 3:06pm
| 25 gallons? holly crap. 7 total layers of cloth on the floor plus a 1/4 core, 7-10 layers on each stringer, inner and outer. I'm sure i didn't go through more than 15 gallons on my project. You can get too much resin. To0 much resin per layer will be weaker than the proper amount per layer. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 3:19pm
| Big difference between 6gal and 15gal! Probably somewhere between using all cloth. 25 does seem on the high side... But if you're using a heavy weight material (mat, biax, woven roving, etc) it will suck up a lot more resin than a lightweight cloth will. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 4:18pm
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well i had 1808 and used 4 where engines sit and 2 for the rest. 1708 on bottom and top of the deck. repaired and reinforced the rudder area, lifting ring mount area and the rear deck from lifting ring ripping out. didnt know what weight glass i had until after project was done. well not actually done but mostly. hooking up engine and getting ready to fire in next couple of weeks. 1808 drinks up resin like you would not believe and it is not overly saturated. i did however do some grinding down of the surfaces so some of the excessive build up has been removed but not that much. due to the ultra low cost of my materials i wasnt too concerned with waste. |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: March-14-2016 at 11:22am
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Stringer and floor replacement 86 SN 4 years ago with help from this site and everything is still together with out any problems. I used a straight edge laid across gunnel for measuring down to old stringer height. and drew a sketch of stringer on the straight edge helped tremendously. If going back with plywood a adjustment will have to be made for finish height of stringers. Two mistakes I made Engine mounts- Give your self some room so you can get under the cradle when it goes back on to hold the bolt. I did not cut this area deep enough in stringer and it is a pain to get bolts back in. Dog box- Front two corners where it closes- sounds real dumb, Be careful that you have left enough floor in this area for box. Also the chase for wiring harness think that part through. I would have pulled all wires through before I put floor in. ***Have boxes shipped to work so your wife does not start to wonder how much your spending** One last thing be committed, Vinegar works nice to clean up epoxy. ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: Bill T
Date Posted: April-15-2016 at 1:09pm
| Add an Oscillating Saw to the tool list. I was using a 4" Pneumatic cut off tool to cut the old stringers out. It was very dusty and hard to be precise with. I bought an Oscillating saw from Harbor Freight and it made the job 10 times faster with much less mess. |
Posted By: Little one
Date Posted: August-31-2016 at 6:34pm
| When doing a stringer job should the boat be removed from the Trailer or is it ok to leave it on the Trailer? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-31-2016 at 10:21pm
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27356&title=ccf-faq" rel="nofollow - FAQ thread with links to stringer replacement. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: September-01-2016 at 10:50am
| Depends on how far you are going with the stringer replacement, the best way is to hang the boat from the factory hooks. That's assuming your factory hooks are stable enough to do this. I didn't have the space to completely suspend the boat so i hung the front with a cherry picker. Definitely not ideal but it got the job done. The hull will conform to the trailer and stay that way after you reglass everything. Fiberglass is amazingly flexible... |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-01-2016 at 11:20am
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I don't agree. Whether or not doing a stringer job on the trailer, or whether the lifting points are sufficient will vary from boat to boat and how far the boat is stripped down. The more structure and hull thickness is removed, the more external support needs to be added. The bottom line is that the hull needs to be supported sufficiently in its original shape when doing structural work. Trailer bunks plus additional support points from below (corners) is what I've done in the past. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-01-2016 at 11:30am
I agree. I'll see if I can find the treads were members have built additional stands while the hull sits on the trailer.
If the stringers are bad enough to undertake a replacement, then the chances are high that blocking for the lifting rings are also bad. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: September-01-2016 at 11:34am
| I think we are saying the same thing. Do not replace the stringers without taking the weight off of the pressure points of the hull. If you don't the hull will deform and stay that way. Whether by suspending, which is how many professional boat builders do it or with supports in conjunction with the trailer bunks the hull needs to be "relaxed" during the process. Ideas do differ on the best way to support the hull. Suspension in conjunction with safety supports below is probably the safest bet. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-01-2016 at 12:28pm
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35204&KW=boat+stands&PID=476084&title=1977-tique-restoration#476084" rel="nofollow - One members hull supports ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Kat Daddy
Date Posted: July-01-2018 at 10:40am
| I found it easy to use a flat pry bar and a rubber mallet to get under the foam to remove it, that stuff is evil...take pics of everything, so to refer as what is what when replacing. Use the 10 mil thick flexible hose for the bilge ventilation, prolly what rotted my floor in the first place...and as stated before, keep your focus on the objective and how awesome your boat is going to be when you finish and how you will be using it. |
Posted By: Kjerchinger
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 10:12pm
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Very informative post, I have one question.. It is noted that the boat should not be sitting on a trailer when the stringers are removed.. I am looking to replace only the secondary stringers. Does envy one know if those can be replaced as the boat sits on the trailer.. The primary stringers are ok, but the secondary ones must be replaced. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 10:22pm
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You will be fine on trailer. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Kjerchinger
Date Posted: March-20-2019 at 12:00pm
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I would like to chime in about the FOAM, NO FAOM Issue. my understanding of the correct way to foam under a floor is after the floor is re-installed. say what ? yes, I was taught be the guy that was a former owner of the American Skier brand. he walked me through the floor replacement of my 85 AM skier. what he explained, is if you install the foam first, then cut it off at the floor level, you are opening up the closed cell foam by cutting it off. maybe you are sealing if again if you glass directly over it as was originally done at the factory. I am not an expert on that. how to install foam after the floor ? the hardest part is jacking up the front of the boat, maybe 6 to 8 feet of so. this can be done by putting blocks under the trailer axel, then raising the front of the trailer. I had access to a fork lift, prior to this, you drill 2" holes every 16" or so, between the Hull and the secondary stringers, this enables you to pour in the pre mixed foam into the holes, starting in the back of the boat until the foam comes out the hole, then moving forward to the next hole and so on. when complete, lower the boat. once the foam has set up. cut it off at the floor, and batch with cloth and resin. |
Posted By: Timr71
Date Posted: March-20-2019 at 12:25pm
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You mean Ron? The AS guy? in this video: http://youtu.be/alFg7_FJGxk" rel="nofollow - Boat Foam fixed link...I hope |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: March-20-2019 at 12:31pm
| I would agree with your overall description of how to foam the floor. Just be careful not to explode the "chamber" you intend to fill. The foam creates a large amount of force if it has no place to go... |
Posted By: Kjerchinger
Date Posted: March-20-2019 at 12:43pm
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yep, Ron Tannis, great guy ! he owned the brand until he sold it to Elan Boats |
Posted By: Kjerchinger
Date Posted: March-20-2019 at 12:46pm
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Agreed, my explanation was pretty abbreviated. the foam needs to be poured in slowly, making sure not to pour in to quickly, or to excessively. . |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-20-2019 at 5:04pm
I totally agree with the concept of foaming after the sole (floor) is in place but, that's assuming you are going to lay a ply (or composite). Many here are going back with the design that CC used with glass over the foam but I like the idea of using an actual sole. The self skinning of the foam inside a cavity provides additional sealing from moisture. I do prefer injecting rather than pouring. Less holes, less waste and a better fill over the pour into a tilted cavity. I have injected thousands of board feet of Handi Foam brand with fantastic results.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Kjerchinger
Date Posted: March-20-2019 at 5:48pm
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interesting, thanks for your comments. I used the Part A-B foam method, poured in. so with this Handi Foam, with smaller holes, is it harder to not blow out the floor by injecting too much ? my floor was plywood on my AM skier, now I am doing my sisters 83 SN, I am planning on using 1/2" foam board except under the seats, here I will use 2 layers of Cossa board. will the handi foam work ? |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: March-20-2019 at 5:55pm
| I would have used that type of foam vs the a-b pourable type but it just wasn't available when I did the stringer job. Spray foam has gotten very affordable in the last few years. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-20-2019 at 7:08pm
Keith, There is a learning curve determining how much foam to inject. If you do use the method, start with small amounts. If you do overfill, there is some pressure so I would not recommend the foam board. The Coosa or ply is a good idea. The kits come with extra nozzles so you can stop, let the foam kick and then go to the next cavity with another nozzle. They supply tho types of nozzles. One is for spraying and the other for injecting. The injection nozzle tip is made so you can add 1/4" ID poly tubing as an extension. I've gone up to a 3' extension without a problem. You can then get way back into a deep cavity. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Rob-Man
Date Posted: March-20-2019 at 7:33pm
Here are some pic's of my 86 I did 8 years ago.. I am sure it is not the quality of some of the guys on this site (guys on here are expert craftsmen way above my pay grade). But she is more than solid. I use 3/4 inch plywood. you don't need that thick 1/2 is plenty. I chose not to rip out all the stringers - to scary for me (I didn't want to take the engine out). Lucky for me the main stringers where the engine was still in good shape. I took out what was bad or reinforced it. I mixed the resin with filler to thicken it to fill the gaps I had.      
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Posted By: Kjerchinger
Date Posted: March-20-2019 at 7:47pm
| Looks Solid, nice job Rob |
Posted By: Kjerchinger
Date Posted: March-20-2019 at 8:52pm
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Thanks Peter- Did I understand that the Spray Foam has become more reasonable over the years ? A quick online search I found it to be 500.00 per container... I don’t remember what I paid for the A-B pour type, but don’t recall it being anywhere near that much.. maybe by the time I get that far, sis will be umune to me ringing up her CC. How many containers of the spray would I need ? More than 1 could be a deal breaker. I will not call this project complete until foam of one sort or another is installed. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-20-2019 at 9:35pm
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Foam comes in different sizes sized by board feet. Calculate what you need and go shopping. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: March-21-2019 at 9:59am
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When i was shopping the spray foam was closer to 1000 per container. the two-part is still cheaper but getting competitive with one another. https://www.carbonfiberglass.com/Foam-Core/expanding-foam-ab-2-part-pour/2-LB-Density-Urethane-Foam-80lb-kit-40-cubic-ft-coverage.html |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: March-21-2019 at 10:58am
A lot of interesting ideas/thoughts, especially about hanging the hull and using bondo. Anyone seen this system? They don't address rotten wood, but if they come up with a way to inject epoxy into rotten wood after the boat is dried out, stringer replacement may not be necessary. http://www.dryboat.com/" rel="nofollow - http://www.dryboat.com/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-21-2019 at 3:52pm
Bruce, The technique is fantastic for removing hogs along the keel. Daniel, Do you understand Bondo is hygroscopic?  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: March-21-2019 at 5:15pm
| So is fiberglass to an extent... Bondo use should be kept to a minimum and only used as a filler to round inside or sharp corners so the fiberglass lays down and wets out properly. If you get air mixed into the mat or mesh you pretty well just wasted your time. The Bondo, in its most basic form, is cotton fibers mixed with fiberglass resin. Bonding properties between your fiberglass resin and the bondo is really a really good mechanical bond. If you are using the epoxy type setup to repair your boat you should do some more research as to compatibility between your filler and your epoxy resins. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-21-2019 at 5:47pm
There aren't fillers compatible with epoxy? Maybe you should go way back when the http://gougeon.com/" rel="nofollow - boys started the epoxy building and repair of boats Get their book too since it has all the information on fillers plus extensive testing of the fillers. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: March-21-2019 at 6:06pm
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If you are using the epoxy type setup to repair your boat you should do some more research as to compatibility between your filler and your epoxy resins. There may be, but I cannot speak to them. |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: March-21-2019 at 7:13pm
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What may have been lost in this thread Most restorers use epoxy nowadays. Epoxy is a great choice. I chose to use resin. I had a cheap source of high-quality fiberglass resin available to me. It was not off the shelf home depot garbage. There is a difference in the "filler' ratio's used to make the resin. Price bears out the quality of the resin. It is more expensive because there is less filler...I could not justify the extra cost of epoxy because of my situation. If you use high-quality industrial grade resin and the mat or mesh in the proper areas your repair will last just as long as epoxy will if not longer. If you want a 100-year repair buy a new boat. If you want a 30-year repair use you one of the repair methods above. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-21-2019 at 9:49pm
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Well I'm on my 2nd shop the 1st really messed everything up, now the 2nd guy has to find out how bad and go from there. Gonna get a update Friday afternoon I hope. JT |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-21-2019 at 9:53pm
What is this "filler" you refer to in the cheap Home Depot polyester resin? BTW, I wasn't aware the HD had polyester resin but I looked on their site and sure enough here's the 3M Bondo brand. It's even stocked in my store so when I go to work tomorrow, I'll have to walk over a couple isles and take a look. Also, I have always considered 3M to make high quality products. Am I wrong?  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: dgray007
Date Posted: March-22-2019 at 10:38am
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3m does make a good product and I have used that exact gallon on other projects I can't get terribly technical here because I'm by no means an expert but that product is designed for small repairs. Think 1 sq foot and smaller. When you are trying to wet out a large area there are advantages to having a resin that is designed for that situation. The off the shelf 3m home depot resin is cut with calcite, or basically limestone. wet out time, work time, overall strength is fine for general small repairs. Structural repairs in large areas of a boat really call for a high-quality resin that has not been cut or filled with calcite. The biggest advantage is the speed in which the mat or mesh "wets" with the high-quality resin. With the home depot stuff, you would have to work in a 1x1 area, The industrial quality stuff will wet a 4x8 sheet of plywood with mesh with plenty of work time before the resin kicks. This gives you a chemical bond across the entire sheet creating a single panel that is chemically bonded vs multiple chemically bonded areas that are mechanically bonded together to form the same 4x8 panel. I should probably define a mechanical bond as well. A mechanical bond occurs between old cured fiberglass and the new glass and resin that you put down over the top. The chemical bond is the hardening process that happens when you mix resin and hardener. Can you use the home depot resin? sure. Will it fall apart? Probably not. Will it make your life more difficult? yep... Hope that helps a little. Again, I'm not an expert. below is a site that explains a little better than I can. I have purchased from them and have not had any issues. https://www.carbonfiberglass.com/Resin-Systems/Polyester-Resins/6736-Premium-Polyester-Layup-Resin-Quart.html |
Posted By: ScottDry
Date Posted: July-20-2019 at 7:48pm
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Anyone seen this system? They don't address rotten wood, but if they come up with a way to inject epoxy into rotten wood after the boat is dried out, stringer replacement may not be necessary. http://www.dryboat.com/" rel="nofollow - http://www.dryboat.com/ [/QUOTE] We actually do address rot. There are a number of products, including special epoxies, that work in these situations. |
Posted By: 00065cccuda
Date Posted: March-30-2020 at 7:00pm
| Just got done with new stringers in my 65 coda I used the west system epoxy and slow hardener worked excellent! Used Douglas fur straight grain @ 200 bucks each! Well worth it. Used silica filler to seat the new stringers to the floor then 4" fiberglass then 6" fiberglass and up and over the stringers. Its unbelievable how much strength in the bottom of the hull with new stringers. Lots of work to get to this point all I can say is take your time this job cannot be done in one day. Good luck I'll try and post some pics soon. |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: June-15-2020 at 11:13am
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Hi have not been on site in a while. For sanding and messy crap a cheapo 10x20 car port is a must. I tied mine to trailer Tools to add cheapo electric hand planer. Nice for shaping and correcting or adjusting Warning old floor and hull are very close together where the front chines start. Right at the curve by front next to the gunnel. I used a circular saw and left the lip on made it easy to match up floor height. Set it just deep enough to go through fiberglass. If not using foam I would install 2 drains just in case. I messed up on this put them in a real crappy spot to get to. Material The fasco 110 is a great product for setting stringers. No problems on mine and it has been in for 6 years now. Biax mat is nice. I used it wraps better than you would think I had to special order fir and one of the mains came in with a slight bend. Trust me send it back.. I was impatient Dont need something you got to try and make straight while gluing them down pain in the butt. If you think you have any problems with wiring, cables, do it now. Also upgrade the ground wire. Look at all the pics on site. ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: June-15-2020 at 11:20am
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One last thing. I would remove windshield if had to do another one. Not that it is in the way. But just in case. I did not cover mine and had finger prints all over it. ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: elpasojon
Date Posted: September-14-2020 at 11:51pm
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Posted By: Laheyth
Date Posted: June-06-2021 at 8:20pm
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Getting ready to replace the floor and stringers in my 84SN, with 2480 hr on it.... its a great boat. Question I see reference to but need details: I plan to take the hull off the trailer and build bunkers to hold it. How do you "level the hull" and know it is in the right shape? One thought I had was to mark the hull while in the water, but I can see flaws with that depending on fuel in tank etc. I see reference to hanging it from the lifting eyes Clarity would be a big help here, I dont want a hook or rocker when done. Tom
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Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: June-06-2021 at 10:28pm
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I had same question. Back ground in construction so level up. Not so true with boat. I used a story stick. Marked the gunnel evenly down in like 6” increments. Then used a aluminum straight edge and measured down. This gave me a reference or blueprint of where I needed to be when finished. Did this several times at different stages of demo. On the boat set up I would leave it on trailer for support and the guys here have excellent advise on where to add support to chines. I did try to get the boat level from side to side. One word of caution when cutting out old floor where front chines start the floor and hull are very close together. In other words set the saw just deep enough to get through the fiber glass on floor. I used old makita skill saw and cut right around the boat. The lip makes a nice place to tie in. Also. Couple of people have done the rear area with a drain I put drain in but not easily accessible. Also be sure to route your chases properly I have not had to replace steering cable but am dreading the day I do. Did mine about 6 or 7 years ago and seems just as solid as day one. us US Composites and this web site. Only way to go ------------- Lakedog55 |