First oil change ever
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26702
Printed Date: April-29-2024 at 10:04am
Topic: First oil change ever
Posted By: CCWalds
Subject: First oil change ever
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:13pm
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Hey everyone, Brand new boat owner here, and am looking for some guidance on doing my first oil change ever on my 86SN. I was hoping that someone could give me a step by step of what needs to occur for me to do this successfully. Also, what kind of oil and filter should I use? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated |
Replies:
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:32pm
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I use a wix 51515 filter, Stay away from fram (dont get caught with a fram on this site). Make sure you use an oil with a high enough zddp content for your flat tappet engine. Readily available options and commonly used are valvoline vr1, mobil1 and shell rotella T(I think the shell is right on the edge of the right amount). Also amsoil makes a few options as well if you know a dealer. There should be a drain hose on the bottom of the oil pan. Run that out the bilge plug hole and drain into your choice of oil receiving bucket. It comes out pretty slow so I would start the engine and get that oil hot to speed it up. Take off said filter. Put on new filter, put in drain plug, fill with five quarts of appropriate oil. Hit the lake! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:40pm
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Craig if the boat is equiped withan oilpan drain hose then stick the the house thru the bilge plug hole and into a bucket. If the boat has one then it 's wrapped around the left side of the motor. It's usually held in place by a clip on the end of the line at the brass fitting and somewhere close to the thermostat. If you don't have this drain line then you can either buy a sump to pull the oil out through the dip stick or pull the drain plug out of the bottom of your oilpan and let it drain into the bilge area then out the drain hole. Yep it leaves a messy oily bilge that you have to clean up after you're done. Buy a replacement oil filter for a 351 and make sure it's anything but a Fram. I've always gone with a Motorcraft FL1A and haven't had any problems. You need to go with a oil that has ZDDP additive as you need an oil that has zinc in it for our motors. The most commomn used here is Valvoline VR1 and can be found at Autozone. It's a bit priceier than reg oil but again it has the ZDDP additive. When done i will write on the filter with a sharpie the date and how many hours are on the motor when it was changed. Most guys here change it after 50 hours of use or at seasons end which ever comes first. Let us know how it goes for you or if you have any questions. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: CCWalds
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:44pm
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That simple huh, As far as heating up the engine I was just going to run the engine in the driveway with the bucket method, will that suffice? As far as replacing the oil, do I fill through the drain hose or through a different area? Also how much oil should I infuse? Sorry for such the amateur questions but I have never done this before haha |
Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:45pm
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I 2nd the Motorcraft FL1A and VR1 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:48pm
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no problem, yes run it in the driveway on a hose or out of a bucket. It wont take long for the oil to get hot. There should be an oil fill cap on the port side valve cover. A little black cap, mine says oil. Put the new oil in there. Mine takes right about 5 quarts. Just check the dipstick after you fill it. You could always do 4.5 quarts, start it up to fill the filter and then top it off if it needs it but mine always take 5 and is right where it should be. Where are you in detroit? I have family in warren. What lake do you go to? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: CCWalds
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:51pm
| Im in Commerce more or less 40 min northwest of the city. I trailer to Union, White, Duck, and a few others around here. There is so many to choose from out here I could go to a new lake every week for a summer and still not have been to them all |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:51pm
Correct info, but not quite complete. VR1 has lots of ZDDP in all weights (20w50 is the one commonly used in our boats). The Rotella 15w40 is definitely right on the verge of being appropriate on the zinc and phos levels (1200/1100 ppm). If considering Mobil1, then you absolutely need to be cognizant of the grade. Only the 15w50 has the higher zinc/phos levels that you need... the 0w30 aint gonna cut it for a flat tappet cam. Ive found that the Walmart near me has been fully stocked with M1 15w50 lately, so Ive loaded up- it had disappeared from the shelves for a while. Concur on the Wix 51515 (Napa rebrands it as the x1515) or Motorcraft FL1A filters. Do the transmission at the same time- use a conventional (NOT synthetic) automatic transmission fluid. Either Dex/Merc or Dex III. Avoid the high mileage formulations. ------------- |
Jllogan wrote:Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 1:01pm
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Looks like everyone has this pretty well covered. One thing to watch, make sure the old oil filter gasket comes off with the old oil filter. They sometimes stick to the engine block. You've probably heard this before, but something about the design of these makes it more prone. Granted, the first time it happened to me, I was un-intalling the Fram filter that my boat came with. But, it did happen with a Wix as well. If you're not paying attention, you'll be wondering why your new one doesn't screw down all the way, and/or you'll have a big oily mess on your hands at startup. |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 1:16pm
Good clarification. Also with the transmission fluid change you will need some kind of pump to get the fluid out of the dipstick hole. There is no drain. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 1:48pm
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Use the trailer jack to help tip the boat to get the most oil out of the pan. Jllogan mentioned that it drains slow thru the hose, but it should be re-emphasized that it will drain really slow, so don't panic and think something is wrong. It's not going to run out like the oil out of a vehicle's drain plug. I would plan on letting it drain a minimum of an hour. ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: CCWalds
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 1:58pm
| Thanks for all of the helpful tips everyone. Just picked up some VR1 20w50, a wix 51515 filter and some stuff to make the bucket lake. Ill let everyone know how it goes today. Hopefully it will be done before noon, because its blazing hot here and she needs to get out on the water! |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 2:00pm
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hah yup, sounds like you are on the right path now! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 2:03pm
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Get yourself a Pela vacuum pump makes things very nice and easy and zero mess. http://www.pelapumps.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - http://www.pelapumps.co.uk/ other pumps are available and are probably just as good but the Pela always gets good reviews. I purchased the 6000 and its been a great investment, you will need it for the transmission so you might as well use it for the engine and it saves messing around with the drain hose. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 2:16pm
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Just food for thought... I will usually change mine out after running it on the the lake for a couple hours (usually in Nov down he'ah in da south), park it in the garage and let the oil drain out overnight. You'd think being as warm as the oil is it would flow out but as stated above it doesn't. Sounds like you're on the right track. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: CCWalds
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 3:41pm
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One last question for those who are still following this thread, Im looking on the port side of the engine, and the only place that I see to infuse the new oil is where you check the oil. Is this where you are suppose to put it? Is there something that I am missing? I really appreciate everyone helping out the newbee, Just want to keep my baby as nice and for as long as possible. It sounds like I am just going to go out to the lake today and drain the oil over night like everyone is suggesting. |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 4:49pm
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there should be a fill cap on the valve cover, on the top of the engine next to the carburetor. http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/pc/QSTVCSBFORD/ALL2P" rel="nofollow - valve cover ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 4:49pm
The oil fill should look something like this, where the arrow is pointing. The design of the cap could look a bit different depending on year. Makes sense to hit the water now, and drain the warmed oil later though.
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Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 4:52pm
 ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 4:54pm
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There you go a few good examples. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: CCWalds
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 5:16pm
| solid! thanks everybody |
Posted By: Nelson
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 10:01pm
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Ok, so I am going to ask a stupid question here only because the boat I just bought (after I read this, I went and looked) has a fram filter that the previous owner had put in it. So whats the big issue with these filters, are they just crap? Any others to avoid or other parts that are just plan junk??? And just to show how much faith I have in everyone on this site, its coming out ASAP.... ------------- 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-28-2012 at 10:53pm
Basically they are made cheaply.One of their things is using cardboard for endplates rather that the better ones using metal. If you want to read more http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html" rel="nofollow - here is more than you'll ever want to know  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: CCWalds
Date Posted: June-29-2012 at 12:59am
| I had the hardest time removing the end cap for the oil drain hose. Literally would not budge. I tried the 5/8 and 3/8 wrench to remove the cap but nothing would budge. I just ended up cutting the tube right above the cap, a terrible temporary solution. Any one have any advice to get that stubbarn end cap separated? |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: June-29-2012 at 1:50am
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you didn't cut the hose did you? nothing shoulda needed cutting. ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: June-29-2012 at 1:54am
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take and post pictures and you will get great help. once my neighbor had a Nova she was in high school and she knew the Nova was running hot so she figured she'd put water in and the place she found to put the water was in the valve cover oil cap...she filled the motor with water. the moral of the story is get help before you really mess it up ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: June-29-2012 at 1:56am
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two wrenches should get the threaded plug out ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: CCWalds
Date Posted: June-29-2012 at 2:40am
two wrenches did not do the job, I cut about 1/4" off of the tube, and should be able to rethread the male part back into the tube. I know it was a temporary solution, and a bad one at that. 
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Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: June-29-2012 at 3:02am
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Seems hard to believe it could rust being soaked in oil all its life, plus I believe its brass. Mine stuck one, I put a wrench on the main body and a awl through the hole in the plug and got it to turn. ------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-29-2012 at 8:25am
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The hose end and cap are brass. I too am having a hard time understanding why two wrenches didn't work. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-29-2012 at 1:12pm
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You may end up needing this: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RK024056C" rel="nofollow - http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RK024056C Just be careful with the threads on the oil pan itself. When I look at mine, someone before me must have had a helluva time at some point, whatever they did to it, I've got only two good flats left on one of the nuts, and it winds up taking a 16mm and a 9/16ths to get it off. If you arrange the two wrenches, so that they are close enough together, that you can just squeeze them together with your hands, it makes it a lot easier. If you arrange them all spread out so that you're doing some kind of weirdo chest exercise, your headed for trouble. The only trick I can give now is get a friend (or a vice) to secure one of the wrenches firmly against a bench of table and you use the other one. Or, you may put a socket in a vice, and use that for one of the nuts. |
Posted By: CCWalds
Date Posted: June-29-2012 at 2:11pm
| Thanks for the extra hints, hopefully I will not need to get the extra tube, but good reference for if I do. I think ill try vicing it today. I was definately doing the weird chest exercise yesterday. It was quite the show, almost gave my self a black eye when the wrench slipped. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-29-2012 at 2:22pm
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One more thing: http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81907-Piece-Flare-Wrench/dp/B000K1OHBC" rel="nofollow - Flare Nut Wrenches are good to have when you're working with brass. They're commonly used on fuel lines and fittings, such as around the carb. Not normally needed for the oil drain, but they'll give you that extra grip, and keep the brass nuts from deforming. |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: June-29-2012 at 3:48pm
I've always used boxed end wrenches to loosen the plug. I did have to put the wrenches on and gently step on the whole assembly using the floor as back up to break it loose once one year. Musta put the Gorilla torque on it the previous year when I was working out  ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: CCWalds
Date Posted: June-29-2012 at 4:14pm
| well- The vice ended up working great, now I have the assembly hand tight for the end of the season when I change the oil again. However the tube is not as snug as I would have liked over the male piece, so I am just going to go get one of those sinch clamps that are at the end of every tube in the engine. Hopefully that solves the problem. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-29-2012 at 4:24pm
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Cool, that worked. Yup, I have a small radiator hose clamp on mine as well, for added security. The only thing is, I have to take the clamp off before it will fit through the hull drain plug hole. |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: June-29-2012 at 4:26pm
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yes make sure it is clampled well, if that comes off and you lose your oil while running that will be all she wrote for your engine. Its a cheap part protecting an expensive one. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: CCWalds
Date Posted: June-30-2012 at 2:33pm
| welp... The radiator clamp worked very well on the hose, however I am having the hardest time getting the stupid oil filter off. Honestly if feels like it was tightened by Hurcules... Any one else have this problem and how am I suppose to get the stupid thing off. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-30-2012 at 2:50pm
Yup, common problem with the filters. They sort of tighten over time oddly enough. You need to get yourself an oil filter pliers. The strap kind works good. Your local sears, or auto parts store should have it. Don't go too far without getting the proper tool. Or, you'll wind up just making things worse.
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-30-2012 at 2:52pm
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They make a couple variations, so get one of the bigger ones, because this is a big filter. Another option is the filter "socket" that you put on the end of a ratchet. These are ok, but you have to have the exact right size, and the won't work at all once the filter has been deformed in any way. |
Posted By: OverMyHead
Date Posted: June-30-2012 at 2:58pm
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Use the clamp near the end of the filter where it is stonger. If you use it in the middle it might collapse, or so I have heard . ------------- For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats. 1987 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: CCWalds
Date Posted: June-30-2012 at 3:11pm
Thanks for showing me those pliers, I was about to grab my budy's giant pipe wrench and just rip on the filter with it. Probably would have ended up being a distaster. I'll pick up the filter wrench today. Thanks everyone. Hopefully this will be the last hic-up until the oil change is completely done... I feel like it took forever 
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-30-2012 at 3:41pm
| The first time for anything always takes more time than you think. |
Posted By: MattB
Date Posted: July-02-2012 at 7:56am
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I did my first service a few months back and hit all the same issues as you, definitely get the tools for the job as they turn a real pain of a job into a simple task, pretty sure my next service will take half the time of the first one now that I've done it once and have everything I need. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6102" rel="nofollow - 2001 http://uksn2001.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - SN2001 Blog |
Posted By: selwoc2
Date Posted: August-15-2012 at 12:59am
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I have an equally simple question, I have a Air Nautique SV211 and I am changing the engine oil. I found the Quick Drain Kit but I don't know how to position the drain hose out the drain plug in the bottom of the hull. I don't know if the hose is too short or am i suppose to run it under the engine. I can't see to place it and I don't want to lose the hose and not be able hang it where it is stored. Can someone help? Thanks ------------- Ted |
Posted By: Nelson
Date Posted: August-15-2012 at 1:23am
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Mine runs under the engine. The hose is about 4-5 feet long and I just run it through the hole where the plug goes and then zip tie the end to a container to catch the oil. It takes a lot longer then one would think. It also helps if you buy the new oil in a large 5 quart container and keep the empty container for the old oil next time. ------------- 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: selwoc2
Date Posted: August-15-2012 at 4:04pm
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Thanks, so you run the oil drain hose under the engine to the hull drain hole which is under the tranny? Where is the drain hose attached to the engine? at the stern, mid engine or forward? Knowing this might help me decide how to place the hose and how to get it back to store. Thanks again. ------------- Ted |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-15-2012 at 4:15pm
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One thing to mention, on the filters: Above, I mentioned using an oil filter pliers to remove the old filter. It is not necessary to use the pliers when installing the new filter. Just get it good and snug by hand. They don't tend to work themselves loose. If anything, they seem to get tighter. Not sure why. |
Posted By: Nelson
Date Posted: August-15-2012 at 6:00pm
 This is what mine looks like. The arrow is where it connects to the motor and you can see the hose in the back ground under the engine. My hull drain is right under the motor you cant miss it but I am not sure where yours is, look under the boat while on a trailer you should be able to see it. ------------- 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Russman
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 4:49pm
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Hey all! I have been running the M1 20W50 for a few season and my oil pressure has always been on the high side. During maintenance startup just prior to hitting the lake, I noticed that the pressure gauge was right around 80 but holding steady. Looks like i need to move to VR1 for the ZDDP. I have a 89' SN with the original low pressure pump. SHould I be concerned? Is it the oil that is raising the pressure readings or do i have another issue I should consider? running pressures over last few seasons has been around 60-70 Can anyone comment on the fram ultra-synthetic filter? ------------- 1989 2001 SN / Prior 1978 Cobalt 18 |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 4:56pm
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The easy answer on the filter is just don't ever use a Fram filter. They may have some higher end filters that are OK, but they have enough marginal filters that just staying away from the brand is the best path. There are many other better options. If, after no changes on the engine, you run the same oil you've always run and get 15-20 psi higher oil pressure readings, I'd suspect the gauge first. Get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and install it on the engine, it will give you an accurate reading to compare your dash gauge to. I doubt you have any issues running M1 20W50 oil. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Russman
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 4:57pm
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Hey all! I have been running the M1 20W50 for a few season and my oil pressure has always been on the high side. During maintenance startup just prior to hitting the lake, I noticed that the pressure gauge was right around 80 but holding steady. Looks like i need to move to VR1 for the ZDDP. I have a 89' SN with the original low pressure pump. SHould I be concerned? Is it the oil that is raising the pressure readings or do i have another issue I should consider? running pressures over last few seasons has been around 60-70 Can anyone comment on the fram ultra-synthetic filter? ------------- 1989 2001 SN / Prior 1978 Cobalt 18 |
Posted By: Russman
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 5:18pm
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Thanks. I will take a look. Any comment on what standard oil pressure would be running the 20W50? ------------- 1989 2001 SN / Prior 1978 Cobalt 18 |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 5:25pm
The 15w50 M1 has plenty of ZDDP in it for your old engine and you must mean low volume standard oil pump not low pressure. You could check your pressure with a good well dampened mechanical gauge tee'd in where the oil pressure sending unit is. If you don't use one that has good dampening, the needle will be fluctuating over a wide range and give you some fairly useless readings So are you just now getting to worrying about high pressure readings after a few seasons of 60 to 70 psi? A lot of people would kill for those numbers. Must be thinking of a thinner lighter weight VR1 or something? |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 5:36pm
| Mobil1 15W-50 has the ZDDP. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 5:50pm
For Russman, me and desertskier are both figuring you mean M1 15w50 since the 20w50 is sold as a motorcycle oil |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 6:02pm
I thought all automotive type oil pressure gauges were dampened. I must have just been lucky on the ones I've bought, have read reasonably steady. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 6:15pm
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If you get an automotive mechanical gauge the dampening is good, but if you rummage around and take that cheap 100 psi gauge off your air compressor tee it in and try to use it to check oil pressure, you'll get quite a fluctuation
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Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: July-18-2017 at 6:21pm
The other problem with that method is it leaves a loud leak in the compressor!  ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |