Take off /chug
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26783
Printed Date: May-07-2024 at 6:26pm
Topic: Take off /chug
Posted By: river ratt
Subject: Take off /chug
Date Posted: July-03-2012 at 3:16am
my boat has been running good but a few weeks ago it was starting to die at idle or just in gear.thought i had pinned down the problem and blamed a bad connection to the battery.cotinued to run fine until today when the same thing occured .so i replaced the battery and both cables.upon restart and test run it was still wanting to cut out. so i adjusted the idle and it seemed to stay running better. but at slolom TAKE OFF itwould hesitate and really chug or just die . cannot drop the hammer as i used to. a veteran sn owner diagnosis was the fuel pump and said nothing i do to the carb will help until the fuel pump is replaced. my boat is a 87 sn 2001 351 ford. Does that sound correct., and will it be hard to find said fuel pump ? it looks like the original pump .  ------------- dont slip on the glass |
Replies:
Posted By: 89Martinique
Date Posted: July-03-2012 at 3:57am
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ummmm. doesnt sound like a fuel pump problem. more like points problem or float issues. more likely the points. how old are they? ------------- Current Boats: 1992 Supra Comp-TS6M PCM 351w HO Pro Boss Pro-Tec Ignition - Full Composite (no wood stingers!) 1989 (3rd Gen) Correct Craft Martinique B/R PCM 351w Power Plus 1984 E-Scow Keuka Lake, |
Posted By: river ratt
Date Posted: July-03-2012 at 4:23am
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old i guess bought the boat last summer they looked clean and roter looked clean .swiped them with a nail file gentle like a couple times before season ???? is that a no no . how does one adjust points?? i have been using my boat 2 3 times a week since late may .i do have to pump the throttle a tad to start it. but its been running like a champ until this last hiccup???? ------------- dont slip on the glass |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-03-2012 at 10:59am
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Time for new points. Someone recently pointed out the points are plated & can't be filed much. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Chris4x4gill2
Date Posted: July-03-2012 at 11:23am
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I was having the exact symptoms - Gap on the Points had closed up. Re-adjusted to correct gap and it runs like a sewing machine. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=4472" rel="nofollow - '89 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-03-2012 at 11:25am
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You need a tune up. Plain and simple. Replace the points, condenser, cap, rotor and you'll be good to go. By the way, where did you get the idea that replacing the battery and cables would fix an idling problem? Nobody from here I hope. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: river ratt
Date Posted: July-05-2012 at 1:31am
well .... i did the points first time went pretty smooth and helped with starting the boat. still falls on its face at hole shot ... i was told by a pro its my accelerator pump...so tomorrow thats my project .  ------------- dont slip on the glass |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: July-05-2012 at 2:42am
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What does the boat have for a fuel filter? When was it last replaced? Dizzy advance working smoothly? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: river ratt
Date Posted: July-05-2012 at 2:53am
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the long one under the deck was done start of season.... it was in bad shape and was stinky with lots of debri inside. dizzy advance ??? not sure what that is (advance) I checked the screen at the inlet to the carb . no blockage. i don t have a see through in line filter after the pump its all metal to the carb. ------------- dont slip on the glass |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: July-05-2012 at 3:00am
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Distributor advance.... not familiar with the Ford "dizzy" , but there should be 2 weights below the points base/ mounting plate that have pivot posts on one end and springs on the other.. The centrifical force when the RPM's are increased causes the weights to pivot outward. If these weights stick or dont move, the engines timing cannot advance. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: July-05-2012 at 3:10am
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http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=A0PDoVxKE_VPDAsAFqKJzbkF;_ylu=X3oDMTBlMTQ4cGxyBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1n?back=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fimages%3Fp%3Dford%2Bdistributor%2Bmechanical%2Badvance%2Bweights%26phrase%3D1%26fr%3Dyfp-t-701%26fr2%3Dpiv-web%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D47&w=1000&h=750&imgurl=www.fordmuscleforums.com%2Fattachments%2Fall-ford-techboard%2F18624d1311028981-whistling-holley-01-weights-springs-centrifigal-advance.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordmuscleforums.com%2Fall-ford-techboard%2F504879-whistling-holley.html&size=87.5+KB&name=Whistling+Holley-01-weights-springs-centrifigal-advance.jpg&p=ford+distributor+mechanical+advance+weights&oid=f98a778b14d476e2744dd5dc0b82c674&fr2=piv-web&fr=yfp-t-701&tt=Whistling%2BHolley-01-weights-springs-centrifigal-advance.jpg&b=31&ni=96&no=47&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=12fs0fpsu&sigb=14e48p2no&sigi=144vftemn&.crumb=8JaCRhqKN6z" rel="nofollow - picture of dizzy weights ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: river ratt
Date Posted: July-05-2012 at 4:25am
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i look at those when i did the points didn't move them any ??should they look that clean? mine had some grease/ muck inside. ------------- dont slip on the glass |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-05-2012 at 12:25pm
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Did you replace anything other than the points? The condenser, cap and rotor should be replaced also. I've chased my tail more than once by one or more of these being an issue and a standard tune up should include all of them. Also wouldn't hurt to remove and clean up the advance weights/springs as stated. If they're sticky or rusted a little bit, they can definitely affect your advance curve. They shoud move to full advance and back again nice and smooth without any rough or tight spots. I have a hard time believing that your accelerator pump all of sudden is out of adjustment. If you just had the carb rebuilt, OK, definitely worth checking. You did time it after you replaced the points right? How many degrees BTDC do you have it set for? ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: July-05-2012 at 12:35pm
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however if he is having issues at an idle it woundlnt have anything to do with the advance. have you checked the timing? Maybe the bolt that holds it down is loose and it slipped a little. Try and twist on the dizzy with your hand and see if it moves. This has recently happened to mine and sounds exactly like how mine acts when it slips. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: July-05-2012 at 12:57pm
I agree ... sticky advance would not affect it at idle. I brought it up because of his hole shot statement...
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Jllogan wrote:Posted By: Jllogan
Date Posted: July-05-2012 at 1:06pm
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if the timing is retarded it will idle poorly and have no power on takeoff. Check timing first. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5792&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: July-05-2012 at 1:32pm
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Andrew, reading back, you asked how to adjust points. I assume you have not checked timing either? Like Justin and a few others have said, you need to do a complete tuneup. Get the basics out of the way. THEN if you still have problems move onto some of the other suggestions. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: river ratt
Date Posted: July-05-2012 at 4:32pm
I looked down the carb again and is seem to squirt two nice streams in the front two barrels . my buddy is coming down to help my do the timing /dwell . I replaced the points condenser cap and rotor but did no other adjustments because i have never done before, I did gap the points with my new feeler gauge  ------------- dont slip on the glass |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: July-05-2012 at 11:41pm
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Andy, my money is on one of those damn master craft guys screwing with our boats when everyone leaves! I agree with the timing comments, hopefully it's running better as we speak. ------------- |
Posted By: river ratt
Date Posted: July-06-2012 at 8:52am
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well im done friggin with it ...new points condenser acc pump ..tight linkage timing at 10 deg btdc ....... it stutters a bit now out of the hole but when she goes its a goood clean hole shot ... bubble bubble whaaaaaaaaaa! 8 out of 10 times .ya kinda funny bout them master craft guys chris.??? whats the skinny on your oil in the bilge come down.fri,. noon ish. ------------- dont slip on the glass |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-06-2012 at 12:43pm
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Now you can do a little more fine tuning knowing that everything is new and setup properly. Take it out and get it warmed up. Put it in gear and idling. Now you can adjust the idle mixture screws on each side of the metering block right next to the primary float bowl. Turn in each screw and as it bottoms out it'll start sputtering and want to die. If you turn it back back out quick it should stay running. Keep backing it out until you get the fastest idle. Do that same thing for the other side then. You may have to do each side a couple times. If you have a vacuum gauge you can use that to adjust to the highest vacuum but I still prefer to just go by the fastest idle. It's easier to hear and see on the tach. By the time you're done, each screw should be about 1-1.5 turns out from being bottomed out. You may have to adjust the idle speed screw on the primry throttle plate after that to your prefered idle speed. As long as you do this whole process in gear and idling, I'll bet it clears up your bog. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: barefootboy
Date Posted: July-12-2012 at 2:21am
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experiencing similar issue with my 82 2001, fresh motor rebuild last year, new rebuilt carb, but at initial start-up, it starts hard and won't stay idling unless throttled-up. Then dies consistently when put into gear. Also, once it warms up good (usually a blast across the lake) it idles fine, but as soon as I place in forward gear and give it hard throttle, it falls on its face....unless i pump the throttle (just a bit back and forth as Im acceleration) then it makes it past the point of wanting to die and runs solid.....Any thoughts??? ------------- Jeff |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-12-2012 at 8:39am
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Jeff, You say it will idle after it warms up but not before. Have you checked the choke setting. Dead cold it should be almost closed. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-12-2012 at 10:50am
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Jeff - Also check your idle mixture adjustment- may be on the lean side. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-12-2012 at 1:06pm
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Jeff, I agree with the above two recommendations. I will add, to also check that you are getting a good squirt from your accelerator pump. You said it "falls on it's face" when taking off. This could mean that you're either not getting a good squirt or that it's coming too late. The slightest bit of slop on the Acc pump linkage can give you a hesitation out of the hole. |
Posted By: barefootboy
Date Posted: July-12-2012 at 1:45pm
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Guys, THANKS FOR THE TIPS...I'll address the three items recommended Saturday morning and give you all some feedback. Thanks so much! Jeff ------------- Jeff |
Posted By: Oletela
Date Posted: July-14-2012 at 4:14am
| Should you be able to turn the dizzy and make the weights come out pretty easy by hand? Mine do not and I have been experiencing a chug at take off. And can you replace just the springs and weights? |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-14-2012 at 2:44pm
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You can replace just the springs if you want: http://www.nautiqueparts.com/distributorsprings.aspx" rel="nofollow - http://www.nautiqueparts.com/distributorsprings.aspx |
Posted By: river ratt
Date Posted: July-14-2012 at 4:00pm
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mine is doing the same thing still hard to start inconsistent idle . after it warm it runs pretty solid but at take off it still lacks the preformance it once had new acc pump points cond. rotor cap idle mixture screws adjusted 1.5 times out 10 deg btdc etc... still get the chug at take off . were do you check the choke setting? mine is electric ... i think? ------------- dont slip on the glass |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-14-2012 at 4:08pm
The 3 screws on the bimetallic electrically heated choke spring housing (round black plastic on the side of the carb) are loosened and then as mentioned you want to adjust it until the choke plate is almost closed when the engine is dead cold. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: river ratt
Date Posted: July-29-2012 at 12:36am
well. i think/ hope it is all good now. Ran some sea foam in it today while pulling the girlfriend around. then tried some skating . after that i did a false slolom pull with no skier and it was all there even better than b4 no stutter no chug no hesitation great throttle response from in gear to hole shot.thax to all im happy   ------------- dont slip on the glass |
Posted By: YooperSully
Date Posted: July-31-2012 at 1:42am
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I fought these types of issues two years ago. Rebuilt my boat (Stringers) and since it's been done I don't have any hole shot issues. I believe that a lot of people mis align their engines and cause friction in their cutlass. In my eyes the low rpms bind the shaft and nearly stall it out until the torque pushes past the binding point and spins more freely. The first thing that came to my mind when I finnished my boat was "what am I going to do about the bog on holeshot?" But after I aligned everything properly I had no issues. ------------- 87' 2001 |