Dripless shaft seal or NOT?
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
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URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28992
Printed Date: May-06-2024 at 3:46pm
Topic: Dripless shaft seal or NOT?
Posted By: boeing777
Subject: Dripless shaft seal or NOT?
Date Posted: February-15-2013 at 12:54am
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I am contemplating the idea of replacing my old worn out stuffing box on my 1979 Nautique with a Dripless version? Doe anybody have feed back if this is a good idea or not? I have heard mixed results about dripless. Also, since it is a new project of mine can anyone give me a few techniques, shortcuts, special tools or things to watch out for? I think my Shaft is a 1" diameter (in need of confirmation of diameter) so I can order a new stuffing box unit! Thanks...... ------------- boeing773 |
Replies:
Posted By: Behl
Date Posted: February-15-2013 at 11:54am
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I have one on my Tique and have had great results ------------- Steve in Indy http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1702&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - Redone 1977 Ski Tique |
Posted By: jbach
Date Posted: February-15-2013 at 1:49pm
| my question would be why? i can somewhat understand on a V-Drive that is a real pain to get to for maintenance but isn't your packing gland fairly easy to get to? it's hundred year old technology that works pretty well. i repacked mine with the goretex variety, check it every now and then, but it is virtually dripless. a few drips a minute. |
Posted By: boeing777
Date Posted: February-15-2013 at 4:11pm
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I have to replace the stuffing box anyway (threads are worn out, lock nut won't even stay in-place it just wobbles). So I just figure, since I have to go to all the work of dismantling the shaft to put a new stuffing box in, I just thought to spend a little extra and get a dripless that takes a little more of the worry out! ------------- boeing773 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-15-2013 at 9:03pm
I totally agree. I feel they are half way to a gimmick as well as a bling item. Carey, since you need to change the packing gland, you might as well try the dripless. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
boeing777 wrote:Posted By: boeing777
Date Posted: February-16-2013 at 3:08am
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Peter, I am glad you shared your advice. It is so nice to hear that coming from someone who has done so much (Nautique restoring) and besides been so helpful to me in the past. I think I will sink a bit extra into going to the dripless version. Can you share any advice to speed up the process, or hints on what not to do? Maybe even special tools? Thanks again....... ------------- boeing773 |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: February-16-2013 at 7:17am
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Keep us up to date on the progress. The rubber is in need of replacement on my old Mustang and I am considering this route as well. ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: February-16-2013 at 10:10am
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Agree with jbach, I've often considered dripless for my Century which is v-drive and near impossible to get at. Does anyone know: cost of dripless system and preferred brand name? Also, this would be waaay beyond my abilities, anyone know approximate labor cost, or can recommend anywhere within a few hours of Atlanta? ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: boeing777
Date Posted: February-16-2013 at 4:55pm
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Hi Jeff (74Wind), I have been doing a little research on the subject over the last little while and have been told of basically two really good versions of dripless seals. The Lasdrop version is around $150.00+ and the PSS version is $200.00+ Of course this is for the part only, labour would be extra. Here is the link from Go2Marine to see for yourself: http://www.go2marine.com/category/12014/dripless-shaft-seals-for-boats.html Carey.... ------------- boeing773 |
Posted By: Behl
Date Posted: February-16-2013 at 4:59pm
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Carey Those instructions I sent you are for the PSS I put in my Tique Steve ------------- Steve in Indy http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1702&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - Redone 1977 Ski Tique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-16-2013 at 7:18pm
Sorry Carey but you didn't provide a link. http://www.go2marine.com/category/12014/dripless-shaft-seals-for-boats.html" rel="nofollow - Here's a proper link to Go2 marine ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: boeing777
Date Posted: March-29-2013 at 5:17pm
Well I finished the install of the Lasdrop dripless shaft seal the other day. Aside from the 2-1/2 hour removal of the shaft-to-tranny flange (it was extremely corroded, and had to change bolt lengths numerous times in order to remove the flange) the job went relatively smooth. Now, I am anxious for the sea trials, and life without a adjustable packing gland. Here is a pic of the installation.  ------------- boeing773 |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-29-2013 at 5:54pm
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PSS is factory installed on Nautiques now. The 200 ski still runs good old shaft packing. I used gortex in my 86 with excellent resluts. It has the added librication of the graphic style rope which allows you to get it so tight it's virtually dripless. I always take my boat on a higher rpm run after I adjust shaft packing to feel the shaft/box for heat. It stays as cool as anything. If I needded a new box I would probably step up to a PSS. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-29-2013 at 10:41pm
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Carey, Do you have the Lasdrop plumbed correctly? It looks like the injection port on the seal is hooked up to the through hull pick up. I always thought you want to be on the pressure side of the engine cooling system so water flows through the seal to the lake. With the injection port hooked to the suction side, you will be drawing water from the lake. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-29-2013 at 11:23pm
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Good eye Pete! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: June-10-2016 at 4:27pm
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Are there any other threads on this topic? I am also considering installing the PSS system on my 1985 Nautique. Anyone have any install headaches on this? I was told the coupler is pressed on and can be a bit of a challenge to get off and back on. ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-10-2016 at 4:36pm
| Shaft coupler is an interference fit. It doesn't simply un-bolt. I don't see the benefit of the PSS. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: June-10-2016 at 4:50pm
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I have the OJ drip less on both my '85 and '95. Love them no fuss no mess no water dripping into my bilge no adjustments to make. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-10-2016 at 4:53pm
| I haven't adjusted my WAX packing in over 10 years. The boat gets wet due to skiers in and out. A little shaft drip is literally a drop in the bucket. The added cost alone is hard to swallow. |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: June-10-2016 at 5:13pm
------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: June-10-2016 at 5:15pm
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I agree with HW though, I would never consider it as an upgrade. ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-10-2016 at 5:17pm
| nicely done up there ^ |
Posted By: lcgordon
Date Posted: June-10-2016 at 5:58pm
| What happens when the hose gets clogged? You ruin your shaft. I would not mess with it. |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: June-10-2016 at 7:02pm
They say saw palmetto pills can help that...... ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: June-10-2016 at 7:57pm
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My only experience with the Dripness seals are whatever Supra used in the late '80's. And, Oh how they luvd to drip. With two boats in rental service, they were soon replaced with the brass stuffing boxes. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-10-2016 at 9:32pm
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Jeremy, I need to ask you why?? Do you feel it's an upgrade or do you just want extra bling on the boat? I'm with others above that really don't feel they are worth installing. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 96SNEFI
Date Posted: June-11-2016 at 2:40am
| I have the californiamarine.com Catalina Performance Parts shaft log stuffing box. Seems to be doing what it's supposed to do. |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: June-11-2016 at 11:53am
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Since my SN is a direct drive and the drive shaft seal assembly is very easy to get to, I can't see the value -- for me anyway. Yes, my seal drips a little, but we are in the boat for skiing and boarding. Wet people come in and out and bring in much more water than a few packing drips. The gland nut re-tightening process is very easy, so I really don't consider an upgrade. Now, if I ever have to change out my shaft or gland nut hardware, I may reconsider... JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: June-11-2016 at 12:07pm
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I think JQ has got it right on the nose. The alignment and access to the packing gland/ shaft in an older V-drive are rife with issues. Needed to change packing in my old Excel - YUCK. Glad the Barefoot Excel's PO swapped out the original style for a dripless. Now his re-wiring is another issue............. ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: June-11-2016 at 2:02pm
It's not at all about the bling for me, My boat is used by other family members at our cabin and even some of my younger nephews. I enjoy the peace of mind sometimes that things like a dripless seal can bring me. When things go wrong on my boat everyone comes to me to fix it.. So if I can do anything preventative now and maybe even add a lil extra value at the time of selling this boat I have no problem doing it. I have put alot elbow grease into this boat over the last ten years, id just like to keep it going with less issues down the road. Granted I have never had an issue with my current stock drip system, I also like my bilge and engine compartment clean and the dripping water and my most recent discovery a cracked muffler that is dripping into my bilge area can drive my OCD crazy. I ordered brand new mufflers I just hope they sound as good as my originals. ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-11-2016 at 3:10pm
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I don't know how having more connections that can cause trouble creates more piece of mind but I have thought about one for my saltwater boat just to have less of that nasty salt in the bottom splashing around. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: June-11-2016 at 4:26pm
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Jackie Deen put one in his old beauty a few years ago, maybe he will pipe in with a review. ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-11-2016 at 9:26pm
Jeremy, I feel you are truly mistaken about the dripless seal bringing you "peace of mind". Do you understand how it's made? It's not a simple as a piece of rope packing but rather mechanical seal that's a spring loaded ceramic face running on a precision ground hardened metal surface. It MUST be supplied with water for lubrication, cooling and keeping foreign material out If this supply of water is interrupted, it doesn't take long to blow the seal. The common use for mechanical seals are pump shafts. I've lost count how many I've replaced through the years. They can be very temperamental and in fact there were several times when I had to do a second R&R because the first didn't work.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: H2oXtremes
Date Posted: June-12-2016 at 1:44am
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Yes I am very confident how they work, It is one of the first things I wanted to do to my boat years ago, Its taken me this long to pull the trigger. If boat manufactures have all went this direction years ago I am sure its a better way to go. I know what can go wrong will go wrong, I am plenty aware nothing is fail safe these days. Being from Michigan and in the boating world all my life maybe not all mechanical but still a boater, I have heard nothing but positives about these units from mechanics to anyone. I am just curious if it was a task to remove the coupler for anyone who has done this route. ------------- 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: boeing777
Date Posted: June-12-2016 at 10:58am
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I have had ZERO problems with my dripless system (Lasdrop). If you are going to the trouble to change the entire stuffing box out like I had to do (because the threads were stripped) the cost to do the upgrade is not much different and for me it has been piece of mind. At the start of the boating season I pull the cooling hose off to check anyway and clean the raw water lines. I have also NEVER found ANY DEBRIS of any kind in the cooling line or remotely close. As far as the installation question (Wrong Side?) according to the directions it can be installed either side (Convenience Factor) I know most of you are thinking the raw water pump (on the suction side) may starve the seal but that is NEVER the case when that pick up is so far below the waterline it would have to drain the lake in order to do so! Or to even cause a void. And my pump IS NOT Capable of draining the lake, raw water pumps ONLY produce pressure EQUAL or LESS than a garden hose so their is NEVER a fear of starving the seal. The seal only requires constant water draining by GRAVITY to cool the shaft! See for yourself if any one installs a dripless, remove the cooling line from the seal housing while running the boat at RPM and verify if their is any disruption to the flow! On my installation their is ABSOLUTELY NO Disruption. SO it is a choice I made with NO REGRETS WHATSOEVER! ------------- boeing773 |