Quick Stringer Question
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29106
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 12:45am
Topic: Quick Stringer Question
Posted By: cofooter
Subject: Quick Stringer Question
Date Posted: February-28-2013 at 6:40pm
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Hi members, I'm new on here and have a quick question on stringer replacement. I'm impressed by the level of knowledge and experience here on boat restoration. Here's the question: I'm currently restoring a ski boat (Malibu) and about to install the first new stringer. I've read through the many threads here and, of what detail I could find on the subject, seems most of you attach the stringer directly to the hull with thickened epoxy or poly (I'm using epoxy myself). Other boating forums suggest isolating the stringer from the hull by either using a foam strip, a flexible type bedding material like Loctite PL or 3M5200, or popsicle sticks to create a gap and only adding a fillet. I'm inclined to do the former (direct to hull with thickened epoxy) and was wondering if there was strong feeling either was as to the correct approach. Thanks! |
Replies:
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: February-28-2013 at 8:16pm
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The issue has been discussed before, and I believe the consensus was to attatch the stringer to the hull, I think the reason for putting in a gap was to allow some flex for stress absorption. IIRC the guru's are of the opinion that the hull in CC's is thick enough by itself to take the shock without creating skin stress. that may be different in a Bu. TRBenj will be along soon, he is one of the most knowledgeable. Welcome to the club  |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: February-28-2013 at 9:10pm
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The tabbing schedule for an isolated grid would be robust indeed. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-28-2013 at 9:28pm
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Hopefully Joe comments, he has more stringer rebuilds under his belt than most and has the ME degree to back up the theories behind the different options. Pete knows his stuff as well. My understanding is that The thing you really want to avoid is an imprecisely matched stringer bottom and hull joint. This will cause point loading. You can float the whole stringer off the hull with a thin layer of foam like the factory did, or solidly bed it along its entire length using mat or thickened resin. Most choose the latter as the stringers are then essentially glued in place for when they start glassing over them. These small, thick hulls are pretty stiff- which is how we can get away with a more solid attachment. I would wager a guess that a bu is similar enough to do the same. ------------- |
Posted By: cofooter
Date Posted: February-28-2013 at 10:08pm
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Thanks for the responses everyone. The Bu has quite a thick layup below the chines and into the bilge, 1/2" or so. I scribe fit the stringers so they are very close. Also, it is an outboard (Flightcraft) so there is not an inboard engine that affects the flex (if that makes a difference?). Appreciate the feedback. BTW, you guys have some beautiful boats on here. I always loved the classics.! |