Alternator upgrade advice
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2945
Printed Date: May-01-2024 at 7:57pm
Topic: Alternator upgrade advice
Posted By: tonydjd
Subject: Alternator upgrade advice
Date Posted: January-28-2006 at 7:21pm
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Have 1988 looking to upgrade the alternator searched forums found nothing any advice thank you.
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Replies:
Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: January-28-2006 at 8:23pm
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What do you mean by upgrading? Do you need more current? ------------- MUSTANG COUNTRY http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17 |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-28-2006 at 8:26pm
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I got mine from skidim alt, conversion kit and new wiring harness pretty easy swap.
Some have gone the route of a single wire alt but you have to do some wiring routing as well I believe. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 12:11am
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Just guessing, but I bet Tony's looking for a bigger alternator to power the stereo's etc. If you don't find the answere here, you may check wakeworld.com, or planetnautique.com. There have been many posts there by guys putting massive stereos in the boats as to what alternators, etc. BKH
------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 4:38am
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If your alternator is a Motorola the GM SI 10 alternator (marine version of course) is a direct replacement. These alternators are very common and available up to 100 Amps. Also available in "one wire" hookup. I see them on e-bay all the time. Replaced mine with one last summer and it works great. If you want more than 100 Amps you should go with the GM SI 12. It has much better cooling capacity. One thing you'll want to remember,...if you are pulling heavy amps from these alternators (big honkin' stereo amplifiers) you'll want to increase the size of the B+ wire coming from the alternator to the battery cable. If it's currently a 12 AWG wire go with a 10. If it's 10 go with and 8. And don't forget to use a circuit breaker.
To have a ball park idea of how much amperage you'll need from your alternator use the simple formula I = P/E. That means I (current in amps) = P (power in watts) divided by E (volts). So if your stereo amp is 500 watts continuous you'll want to increase your alternator's output capacity by approx. 36 amps. 500/14 = 35.7. Notice I said increase it by this much. Because you're already using your alternators capacity to charge the battery, power the ignition, lights, blower, bilge pump and whatever else. In the case above I'd use at least an 80 amp alternator. 100 is better. Also, don't be afraid to go bigger. The alternator will only put out (in amps) what is demanded from your electrical system. So a 100 amp alternator will not put out 100 amps all of the time. So the only fear of burning something in your wiring system should be if you have something short circuited or drawing excessive current. The only thing your limited by here is the size of your wallet! Hope this helps. ------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier Former boats: 88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II 59 Chris Craft Capri (woody) |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 7:31am
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don't know that I would size the alt based upon the size of the amp. Seems odd that a 550 watt amp could draw 36 amps when it has a 20-25 amp fuse on it, wouldn't the fuse blow, yes it would. Most problems that people have with the electrical system when they add amps and stereo equipement is the way the wire it up. If you run power and ground leads directly to the battery then you really don't have an issue and if you do then add capacitor for when the load is needed. I'm not sure that a 10 SI or 12 SI alternator would be a direct replacement for a '88 ford engine. You could have issues with the mounting holes, bracket and pulleys. If memory serves me right the majority of them went out the door with multi-vee pulleys which don't work very well with single groove pulley's. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 11:12am
What about powering my live well and trolling motor
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Posted By: tonydjd
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 12:07pm
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I love this site everybody's got great insight and yes I rewired the entire boat (so I don't have issues later). The last project replace alternator (increase demand from stereo amps) clarion ax480 pushing 4 polk MMC650 and a 10" powered sub. Just wanted to make sure if I should go with the one wire off the alternator Or do what 79 Nautique did with his alternator.
I have not tried staying with the factory 35amp but I think it might become an issue. I beleive in preventing problems not repairing them in the middle of the lake. Thanks to everyone for advice ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1061&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Old School 88 |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 1:12pm
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What 79 said. ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 7:37pm
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Watch out for wattage on steroe amps. There are several means of measurement (RMS, Peak, Peak to peak) and most will give you the absolute watts output at a particular frequency. I worked on those amps in school and its funny to see 100 watt amp with 7 watt output amplifiers. Some of the real $$$ amps are in RMS and are accurate and will draw tons of current. Like 79N said, It may have a 25 A fuse for a 400 watt amp, which would mean the amp is not really 400 watts!! Just for your info, in loudness, a typical police car siren is 100 watts. ------------- MUSTANG COUNTRY http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17 |
Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 7:49pm
I better learn how to spell stereo!!!! ------------- MUSTANG COUNTRY http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17 |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 8:07pm
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Jeff; There sure is lots of interesting stuff on here, just not sure how much of it I understand. I just thought all I hadta do for more volume is crank up the knob on the left.
john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: January-29-2006 at 8:11pm
Jbear, you keep this site rollin!!!! Jeff...------------- MUSTANG COUNTRY http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17 |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 6:26am
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Tony I would go with the 50 amp model from skidim with the internal regulator. You could use a 80 or 100 amp 10 or 12SI alt if you want. The one from skidim is going to be the easist(sp) to wire that is provided that when you re-wired everthing you basicly kept the stock configuration. The main thing is getting rid of the external regulator. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tonydjd
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 8:12am
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79 look at my profile email please I want to forward a drawing.
I rewired the boat like a newer style boat meaning have postive from battery to a fuse block setup 12 circuits so I'm no longer using the old wiring system I know if I did will have problems down the road. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1061&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Old School 88 |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 9:18am
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I have the same amplifier that Tony is talking about above (clarion apx480m), it puts out 4x80 watts rms at 14.4 volts, a fair amount of power. The unit has (2) 25 amp fuses, and draws according to the manufacturer 46 amps at peak power. Between the head unit, the powered subwoofer and that amplifier your going to be 65 amps easy on the stereo alone, forget about it when you add tower speakers and another amplifier down the road (alright that might not apply to you but it is how I am thinking) you should go significantly bigger than a 50 amp alternator IMHO.
I also doubt the polk mmc650's will handle the amplifier your using, they are only rated for 60 watts rms continuous. They are quality speakers and I am sure if you don't crank on them they will last a while but they wont take continued abuse at that power. Maybe return them and buy some JBL ms920's from Overtons... they are 6x9's so they might not fit, but they are 100w rms and overtons currently has them on sale very cheap. I like the idea of changing the wiring to a fuse box like setup, I think I will borrow that on my project, I will probably power the amplifier seperately though and rely on the two built in fuses. I haven't sourced my alternator yet, so if you find something good let me know.. -Joe. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: tonydjd
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 9:21am
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I will be using at least 100amp alternator also Joe if you decide to rewire shoot me an email I will send a drawing that might help we you get ready to change your set-up ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1061&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Old School 88 |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 10:19am
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Joe does the amp have two power feeds? I would doubt that it does and most likely all that the amp will draw at most is 23 amps. theres no way that it can draw more. I have a sony explode 300w continous 800w peak amp which has two 25 amp fuses as well and I have a ampmeter as well and have never seen it draw more than 20 amps with the engine running or off. And you won't find anyone that drives a stereo harder than I do. I have mine adjusted so that I can run it a max volume without any noticable distrotion and It does stay at this level for hours on end and I have never had a problem. Personally I think the 100 amp is over kill and a 50-80 amp model would work fine, but to each there own. Tony I'll have to look at your listing and get back with you. It sounds like you have done this under the dash and it would have nothing to do with the engine wiring harness but I'll take a look and get back to you. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 12:12pm
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You can't compare amps by their rating without reading the fine print. There's no regulations on how companies rate their product. Most are rated at the peak, the most it can put out,(short bursts)and some are rated at RMS which is the most continous power with both channels driven. Then you have to look at the frequency at which it is rated. Most rate their amps driving only one frequency, usually a easy to drive midrange tone. The better amps are rated driving a signal 20 to 20k hertz, which is the human hearing range and alot harder signal to drive. Then you have to look at the total harmonic distortion, which should be at .01% range. Anything higher and they are overrating the amp. Most people don't notice distortion at 1%. And remember to raise the volume 1 decibel, you have to double the wattage. Of all the things the government regulates, it's a shame they haven't set standards for amps. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 12:34pm
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Where are not talking about output voltage or watts, we are talking about consumption by the amp or what current the amp will draw under loaded conditions. So how the amp is rated for output is not relavent.
Bottom line if you are only adding one amp the stock 51A alternator is going to work fine, you could even add another smaller amp and not have a problem, now if you are going to use three or more then that's another story. You should be more worried about what size battery you have in the boat than the alternaotr's output because a group 24 battery isn't going to get the job done for very long and you'll be sitting with the boat idling to keep the battery charged enough to crank it over. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 1:02pm
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It only has one power input, I would assume that one fuse powers the the fronts, one the back. The manufacturer lists 46 amps at max power but I haven't installed it yet, I would not doubt that it will draw no more than mid 20's underway, still pretty significant especially when you add on the powered sub. I am positive any one of us could drive around all day stereo blaring with a 50 amp alternator and never drain our batterys. However I run the stereo a lot when the boat is off, both when sitting at our dock and inbetween wakeboard sets especially when the girls are screwing around with bindings, having a larger alternator should get the battery back up to full charge a lot quicker, lessening the chance of me having to swim back to the camp to retrieve a jetski to tow the mustang home, that happened last year without the amplifier and powered subwoofer, and the half mile swim was not nearly as fun as the wakeboard set was going to be. This year I am coming back with a bigger battery (after i enlarge the box) and a bigger alternator...maybe 80, maybe 100 depending on what I find, might be overkill but that v8 is damn hard to pull start... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 1:04pm
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Geez I took to long to write that one, two responses while I was typing... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 1:25pm
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using a 100A alternator isn't going to change the rate of charge to the battery by enough to charge it any faster or slower than what it currently is being charged by the 51A unit. I betting that you have a deep cycle battery as your cranking battery and thats a mistake because a deep cycle doesn't have the CCA rating that is needed especially if it is discharged. I don't see that your set up is going to draw more than the set I have in my boat (your amp is rated lower and your sub is smaller) and I can sit at the sand bar all day long jammin and still crank it over at the end of the day and get back to the dock with no problem. Now I do have a fairly serious battery in mine though (group 32 950-1000 CCA) it will crank over any heavy equipement you throw at it. A bulldozer, front loader, grader anything with a Caterpillar name on it and I can jump start it with my boat if needed. and the best thing about the battery is that it was Free, brand new and un-used. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 2:06pm
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Tony,
There is a standard for amplifier output, the CEA 2006 Mobile Amplifier Power Rating Standard. It is voluntary and not perfect (i dont think they should rate at 14.4 volts personally) but it is a good step, I decided only to buy certified amps and decks since the standard came out. Might as well patronize those that try to compete on an equal footing.. 79 Nautique, Lets not start comparing the size of our subwoofers ;-)... I haven't even bought any yet... Haven't found anything marine grade that is powered and worth the effort yet, am in the hunt now. Would like to stick with some powered ones simaler to the basslink IIs that I have in my truck so I can avoid a second amplifier, they are 250watts rms each. Might eventually just buy the automotive ones and get my friends in the electrical lab here to conformal coat all the boards. My battery is a marine cranking battery.. its just pitiful in size since that is all that would fit after the last owners hack job on the battery box. I have a few 1000cca (1300 mca) marine cranking batterys in the rotation for my outboards, the Decoy will get the same this year. The rectifier on a mid seventies outboard makes a 35 amp alternator look positively awesome, luckly the outboards can be pull started with a little ambition. As for charging quicker, I think it depends on how much power you are pulling when you are charging and how fast you are driving. At 2000 rpm where I am wakeboarding I am only going to get about half the rated output of most alternators, that would give me maybe 30 amps while I am running the stereo, perfect pass, depth finder, and the ignition which could be drawing that much or more if I am cranking it I could see this being a net loss or at the least not enough to help me recharge the battery after running the stereo all day.. and of course I still havent ruled out those powered tower speakers somewhere down the road yet.. -Joe. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 2:29pm
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Joe wasn't trying to compare just trying to point out that what your looking at doing is already what I have and from a power consumpt*tion aspect they would be simular.
Your thinking that the faster it spins or the more amps it can kick out will drive how quick the battery is going to be charged is flawed and not correct. The regulator compensates the current thru the field coils (stator) to meet the electrical demand on the output side and this cannot and will not effect the rate of charge for the battery it is only going to take so much just regardless of how much amperage you throu at it. You've already stated what your problem is, has i see it, in that your battery is undersize and the only reason for the is the fool that owned the boat before you otherwise i'm sure you would have a better battery. I'm sure once you get the floor re-done and can get the proper sized battery in it you won't have to swim back and get the jet ski. I'm not a big fan of powered subs and would rather have a quality set of speakers and amp to drive them at there full potencial with the clearest sound. low distortion. i've got a couple of suggestions for subs but I'll have to get back with you I have to finish a coulpe of things here at work first. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tonydjd
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 4:03pm
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Slow down you mean to tell me if I only want to use 1 amp and a small powered sub no reason for me to upgrade alternator. Sweet I do have 2 batteries on board using a contionus duty solenoid to help keep both batteries charged I like this set-up better than the isolator been there done it.
79 rewired under dash installed inline protection 50 amp before going to fuse block. still have the 50amp circuit on rear of engine ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1061&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Old School 88 |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 4:06pm
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Joe about the only powered subs that I have seen are the bazooka tubes that look like dive tanks and I think they can be mounted to a tower as well. Again I'm not a big fan of the powered subs, I would rather use a quality multi-channel amp and bridge two channels for the sub and run the other channels through high quality speakers. I don't subscripe to the theory the more speakers the better and I wouldn't go for component speakers either unless you like cutting holes everywhere. The advantage of an adjustable cross-over in a boat is a waste of money for a free air-space system that you cann't adjust out the accustics anyway. Now if it was a big cruiser and you wanted to address the enclosed cabin that's different.
Not sure exactly what your plans are and how you feel about cutting holes into the fiberglass but I didn't care to make any when I installed my system. The PO already made one for me so I had to fill it. But I made a sealed enclosure and mounted it on the floor under the dash just in front of the vent hoses. I used a Blaupunk transparrent series 12" sub-woofer in a 1.25 cubic ft seal box. I wanted it to be removable. Also I use outdoor home speakers Klipsch HS-II, I would have bought Polk Atrium 55's if I was paying list price. Water proof vs. water resistant. The sub can be used as a free-air, ported or sealed and is completely plastic (polycarbonate) so all of the electronics are completely sealed with the exception of the voice coil that is which cann't be otherwise it doesn't move. I also don't subscripe to the theory that the speakers and head unit have to be be marine grade, you can take any head unit and make it marine grade your self which I'm sure your aware of, now if it was on a fishing boat or one that would be exposed to rain uncovered then ya they would last longer. My speakers are only in the boat if I'm using it and when in storage the are back into there box until the next jam session. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 4:16pm
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Tonydjd, if you are only going to use that clarion amp then you don't need a bigger alternator, but you do have to worry about the type and size of battery you have. If you are going to add more amps later then ya maybe a bigger alt might help, but when your sitting there with the engine off and the jams kick'n it doesn't matter if you have a 200A or 50A alternator they are going to charge up the battery at about the same rate when you start it up. Now if you have several amps and are crank'n it then you can have an electrical issue and loose power to the ignition and engine if the alt is capable of producing the need amperage. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 4:18pm
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man I need to slow down and proof read more. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 4:21pm
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Sorry if this is starting to bore people, I can't go out boating or even working on the boat for a couple months so I have nothing better to do...
The way I see it if the max output of the alternator is reached (and it is dependent on alternator rpm, which is determined by pulley size and engine rpm) by a combination of the various loads and the current that will flow into a battery at 14.4 volts (dependent on the internal resistance of the battery at the time) then the voltage will begin to fall below 14.4 and the regulator will not be able to keep it up. Once the voltage begins to fall the battery will charge at a slower rate, eventually with greater loads the voltage will drop below battery voltage and the battery will actually drain even though the alternator is putting out its max current at that alternator rpm. I used to be able to see this first hand in my 1985 RX-7 which had a very high current ignition system a lousy little alternator, and would idle around 500rpm. In the winter at night with the lights on and heat blowing I would have to rev the engine to keep it going, and that was with a new alternator and the biggest battery that would fit. The claim from the mazda garage was that the alternator pulley needed to be smaller due to the 7k redline, so it would never charge at such a low idle and that was only a problem if the battery was too cold to provide enough cushion at idle. Thanks for looking into the subwoofers, I think the 80w rms each to the 4 jbl 6x9s will be strong and sound good, but I would like to relieve them of the burden of also carrying the low frequency, the amp has a built in crossover and I would like to set it at about 400hz and find some subs that would still get some lows out to off the boat.. I don't think it will be enough for a wakeboarder to hear over the straight pipes, but maybe a wake surfer? -Joe. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: tonydjd
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 4:28pm
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I only will have one amp apx480 with 4 6.5 speakers with a small 8" powered sub. that's it I have no plans of playing music any louder than this. I'm already hard of hearing from all these years being a DJ. Thers is no way a wakeboarder behind my 88 duals will ever hear the music. The music is more for the people in the boat to enjoy.
whats the easiest way to determine how many amps my current alternator is putting out. should I remove it have it bench tested it's not the orginal Alt looks like it was upgraded the orignal regulator is no longer on the rear of the engine. I'm not getting bored only informed thanks alot. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1061&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Old School 88 |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 4:38pm
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I can't keep up.... I was hoping to dump a powered sub under the passenger seat, and another back next to the gas tank behind the real seat... I am not cutting any original fiberglass but the whole interior including the floor will be custom so I am hoping to be able to design everthing in somewhere. I hope to save the floor space under the bow as I put a lot of stuff up there currently and dont have any other space... a 1967 mustang is really a tiny boat. Because its so tiny and my friends are so big it is the wettest boat I have ever had so I am trying to keep everything audio marine for the first time in my life. Luckily it being the off season I have been nowhere near list price on anything yet... the Jbl ms920s were 80 a pair from overtons, I got a decent sony marine deck (cdx-f50m) that plays mp3s for 115, and I found the clarion amp for 130, not bad for new marine stuff I thought.. didnt like the scuba tank looking sub though too reminicent of cheap automotive bazooka tubes that did nothing but buzz the trunks of every camaro in the eighties.. the art to most of this is definitely going to be fitting everything into the boat... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 4:40pm
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Tony got a part number for the alternator?
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: tonydjd
Date Posted: January-30-2006 at 4:45pm
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I will pull it off tommorow and look skidim told me it was a newer model for the fact it had I believe a green wire coming from it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1061&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Old School 88 |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: January-31-2006 at 6:05am
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I would say whats on it is a 51A alternator. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 65 'cuda
Date Posted: January-31-2006 at 5:50pm
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This thread has me thinking about my future requirements, so a couple of questions.
I would like to relocate the batery forward in the boat up under the dash forward of the center console (its a barracuda ss). this would free up storage space under the passenger seat which is currently occupied by the battery. Yes Joe, these boats are tiny. Do you see any problems with this?, I'll probably be doubling the length of the cables, should I go up a size? 79, what is the physical size of the battery which you describe, I would like to fabricate the new battery box big enough to fit a very good battery. I will be adding a stereo to the boat, what problems will I have? The engine, ignition, and alternator, all appear to be stock 1965 technology, will I have interference problems? I would like to mount the speakers in semi stealthy locations, again there is almost no room, I am thinking about the foot kick panel for the driver and passenger could hold a pair of 6 1/2 or 7's and If I reshaped the seat angle on the back seat, I could get a pair of 6 x 9's into the vert. surface of the seat bottom of the rear seats. The side panels have very little room behind them to hold a speaker, maybe 1 3/4" at the top and less as you get near the floor. I would like to mount a small amp and an xm compatable head unit in the dash, I don't want a radio sticking out of the dash, so I'm going to hide them in a glove box, I found a 63 corvair glove box on ebay that will look period correct, (I know, they didn't come with glove boxes, but I won't tell anyone)I'll have to move the clock over by the other instuments and mount the Barracuda emblem on the glove box door, but when I'm done it will look like it's always been there. Any suggestions on a head unit and amp? Thanks, Gary ------------- Gary http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=941" rel="nofollow - 1965 Barracuda SS |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-01-2006 at 9:35am
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Gary
Do you really want to cut up the dash??? hope not but I'm sure it will look good when your done. I have seen radio enclosures that you can mount under the dash or under a seat and if you get a marine spec radio, most have a wired remote pad that you can surface mount at the rear and another at the helm so all you would have to worry about is loading CD's. For the battery what I'm using is pretty big it's size is a group 32, most come with a group 24 battery. Most deep cycles that you see on the BASS boats are group 31. I would suggest getting a battery box for the size you want to use and go from there. Depending on how long the cable is going to be will drive the size some, but the harder part is getting it in the length you need. I had mine custom made to order out of 2/0 cable. I think one was 8' and the other was 10', best twenty bucks I've spent. Most are 2 gage or thinner and only 4'-6' long on the online stores so your going to be on your own finding them. If you hook up the amp and radio's power leads directly to the battery you'll ellimanate most of the noise and upgrading to electroinc ign and suppression wires (if not done already) and you should be good to go. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 65 'cuda
Date Posted: February-01-2006 at 4:45pm
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Yes, I really think that I'm going to cut a hole in the dash, I know, I know, but as I said, it will look like its always been there when I'm through, Its more about space and function than anything else, I want to keep the vintage look of the boat and improve its usefulness, I'm going to add a swim platform on the back just for more room and function, remember these boats are tiny and with the SS you basically lose another seat and interior room as well. ------------- Gary http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=941" rel="nofollow - 1965 Barracuda SS |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: February-01-2006 at 5:35pm
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I am going to have nightmares tonight. This thread has scarred me for life.
Maybe rather than cutting a hole in your dash you should consider holding your radio in your hands while you drive around. That is how I do my speedo. After a while you get good at it and your riders will eventually stop asking you about it - take my word for it. If it works out let me know - I'll get a radio too! ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: February-01-2006 at 6:35pm
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Jim,
Everytime you start talking about holding your speedo in your hand while driving the boat, I get an image that has me scarred for life.  This has to stop. BKH
------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: February-01-2006 at 6:49pm
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BKH; This is scary, I had the same image. I have been lost for a day or two anyhow on this post but now I'm really scarred. But as far as the radio goes, I think I have one in my boat but I never use it. Something about a boat to loud. OOpppS, I think thats a different post.
john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: February-01-2006 at 6:51pm
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I'll post a pic. (There will be a black square in front of my face.) ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: February-01-2006 at 7:56pm
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PLEASE J_I_H; no pics, don't think I'd ever recover.
john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: SS-201
Date Posted: February-05-2006 at 5:57am
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79
IS RIGHT THE BATTERY HAS TO MATCH THE ALTERNATOR.THE REASON ALTERNATORS CHARGE INSTANTLY WHEN THE BATTERY CALLS TO KEEP THE VOLTAGE AT 100%, YEARS AGO GENERATORS RAN CONSTANTLY WHEREAS IT CHARGED THE BATTERY SLOWLY AND COULDN'T KEEP THE VOLTAGE UP AS NEEDED. TO OVER CHARGE THE WRONG BATTERY IT WILL BE SHORTLY LIVED. ------------- SS 201 |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-05-2006 at 8:07am
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You are still kick'n we haven't heard from you in awhile. Are you tired of the rain yet? it collapesed a roof over by my girl friends place. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: SS-201
Date Posted: February-07-2006 at 3:47am
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79,
STILL AROUND i am restoring my first race boat a1931 chris craft converted and runung in the vintage and historic circuit.still got my baby ski nautique craft. TAKE CARE BB ------------- SS 201 |
Posted By: tonydjd
Date Posted: February-07-2006 at 7:37pm
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Ok took old alternator off still works fine emailed photo to Vinnie at skidim he told me it's a 40 amp alternator. Question is will it support the use of the clarion APX480 amp pushing 4 speakers hooked up to seperate battery or would it be much better just to put on the 51amp need advice guys.
Thanks for all the replies to this thread it's been very informative to say the least alot of rocket scientist out there. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1061&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Old School 88 |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-08-2006 at 7:44am
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Bill post a picture when you get it finished so we know who to chear for when we're at the races. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: SMay81SN
Date Posted: July-05-2006 at 2:07pm
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Ok, Sorry to bring this thread up again, but I don’t know where to start. Not a electrical guy. With our new 94 SN, it has a stock Alternator, I believe the stock stereo amp, a new CD player head unit and 4 stock speakers. I believe it(alternator or battery) are not putting out enough power. The ignition beaker needs to be on for anything to work first, if the blower or auto bilge is on then the stereo does not have enough power to turn on. If these things are turned off then it will work. Also while motor is running all things will work. Push the horn and stereo goes off, or the bilge comes on, stereo goes off.
Please let me know what I can do to eliminate this. I need help. I not trying to have a 500 watt stereo blaring while we are running but just trying to enjoy a few tunes while out on the lake…..I have 3 or 4 teenagers in the boat all the time so the stereo is a necessity. Thanks!  ------------- Scott http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1383&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995 - Our 94 SN |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: July-05-2006 at 4:44pm
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Die thread, die. ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |
Posted By: SMay81SN
Date Posted: July-05-2006 at 5:05pm
Thanks for such great help... ------------- Scott http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1383&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995 - Our 94 SN |
Posted By: Jim_In_Houston
Date Posted: July-05-2006 at 11:42pm
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Maybe if you start a new thread people will be all over it to help you. ------------- Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang |