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Best way to check engine?

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3109
Printed Date: May-10-2024 at 6:10am


Topic: Best way to check engine?
Posted By: Dank
Subject: Best way to check engine?
Date Posted: February-27-2006 at 8:45pm
Hopefully this question doesn't come across as too stupid, but here's the deal.

Back in November I paid a guy to winterize my boat (maybe a mistake, but I was going out of town and wanted it done before it froze)

I've been thinking about replacing the drain plugs with petcock valves, so earlier tonight I pulled the plugs so I could make sure I got valves that fit. The exhaust manifolds were dry, but the drain plugs on the block poured out water :( Turns out the guy didn't pull the plugs on the block.

I'm in TX so I might be ok (fingers crossed). We plan on taking it out this wknd and firing it up. Assuming it starts and runs fine, is that enough? Or is there a more exhaustive check I should do to ensure there was no damge to the block?

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"I don't know what the world may need, but a http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=886&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - V8 engine's a good start for me"



Replies:
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: February-27-2006 at 9:04pm
Was there any anti-freeze at all in the water?
Doesn't take much.

Otherwise, if you got water, from the block and none of the freeze plugs are blown, I don't think it's likely you did any damage. Hasn't been very cold inTexas this year anyway, has it?

What did the guy do? Just take your money?
If he happened to remove the impellar or thermostat, you need to put those back in.

BKH


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Livin' the Dream



Posted By: scott8370
Date Posted: February-28-2006 at 7:28am
Run the engine. Check for leaks. Also check the oil to see if there is any water in it.My sister lives near Dallas. She said they haven't had any long lasting cold days.

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Scott


Posted By: Dank
Date Posted: February-28-2006 at 8:07am
yeah, we've had a very mild winter. It's only gotten cold twice. Once the first of Dec for about a day and then about 2 weeks ago for about two days.

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"I don't know what the world may need, but a http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=886&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - V8 engine's a good start for me"


Posted By: Ryan S.
Date Posted: February-28-2006 at 1:16pm
Sorry to bud in here, but wondering if somebody could tell me where the freeze plugs are on my 1997 GT-40 (Ford block)? Thanks

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Ryan


Posted By: surroundsound64
Date Posted: February-28-2006 at 1:31pm
I'm sure if it was stored in any sort of shelter it is fine.

That doesn't mean that if I was you I wouldn't be REALLY mad.

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1981 Ski Nautique
2000 SAN



Looking for a 2000-2006 SAN


Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: February-28-2006 at 6:54pm
    If the temp didnt get real cold, youre prob ok because the block being under the engine cover, surrounded by fiberglass, has enough thermal mass that it would have to get below freezing for a while.

    As far as petcock valves go in my opinion, they can be a liability because it shrinks the hole size and can get blocked off by a piece of rust. I had it happen with the petcocks on the 74 M17, where the water just stopped coming out. Put a wire in it and got another gallon. I always like to watch the water come out until stops. Its worth the 5 minutes to put BRASS plugs in.
   My .02                      Jeff....

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17


Posted By: Dank
Date Posted: February-28-2006 at 7:51pm
Thanx for all the opinions. I feel a little better. I guess I'll know more this wknd.

Jeff, why brass? I don't think the one's I pulled out are. Maybe I'll just get brass plugs instead of the valves. Ski dim looks like they've got brass plugs for the block, but I didn't see them for the EM.

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"I don't know what the world may need, but a http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=886&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - V8 engine's a good start for me"


Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: February-28-2006 at 8:01pm
    SkiDim should have them all. They are OEM on the new PCM engine I bought. The reason for brass is because it is softer than steel, seals better without the need to go as tight, and it will keep from opening up the tapered threads in the block, manifolds, waterpump etc. Its cheaper to buy a few plugs over the years as they wear then to try to fix the threads on the other end. Brass also wont seize up (rust) on you either to allow easy removal.
                               Jeff...

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MUSTANG COUNTRY
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17


Posted By: David F
Date Posted: March-01-2006 at 9:17am
If anti-freeze was mixed with the water in the block, then it was winterized properly. You are NOT supposed to just drain the block and leave the plugs out as this practice promotes scale buildup in the block.

However, you ARE suppose to drain the manifolds and leave the plug out. My quess is that it was done properly based on your description of what you found.

Make sure you put the impellar back in and/or tighten up all the belts.


Posted By: Dank
Date Posted: March-05-2006 at 9:38pm
Update...took the boat out yesterday. No visible signs of freezing on the freeze plugs. It fired right up, with no signs of leaks or water in the oil. Checked it out as well as we could. We'll keep an eye on it, but looks like I might have gotten lucky. Thanx for all the info and advice.

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"I don't know what the world may need, but a http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=886&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - V8 engine's a good start for me"


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-06-2006 at 7:36am
If you used a hose or fake-a-lake and ran it in the drive be carefulland and recheck the oil when you run it the first time on the water. You need to get a good heat cycle on the motor and the hose will not supply the same volume or pressure as it would if in the water. If it's cracked it won't take long to show up on the water.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: Dank
Date Posted: March-06-2006 at 8:44am
I ran it on the water. We were out for about an hour. Like you said, it should have shown up pretty quickly if there was a problem. No leaks and oil looked fine. I'll be taking it out again tonight so I'll be on the lookout again, but I feel alot better than I did a week ago :)

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"I don't know what the world may need, but a http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=886&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - V8 engine's a good start for me"



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