Engine oil recommendation
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33371
Printed Date: April-29-2024 at 6:17am
Topic: Engine oil recommendation
Posted By: gmars70970
Subject: Engine oil recommendation
Date Posted: April-18-2014 at 7:08pm
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Hi All, I picked up a new water pump belt & alternator belt today, cooling system pipes, spark plugs & oil filter. But I'm not sure on what engine oil to use, it's a 1980 ski nautique with the 5.7 v8 engine. I'm hoping to get everything changed over tomorrow. Should I use 10w30,10w40 or 10w50 oil ? Thanks Graeme |
Replies:
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: April-18-2014 at 7:41pm
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I run Mobil 1 15W50. Check out this http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31909" rel="nofollow - thread ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: April-18-2014 at 8:02pm
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Cheers JPASS, I'll drop into my local store tomorrow & see what 15w50 oil they have in stock Cheers again 👍 |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: April-18-2014 at 10:50pm
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In a 1980 engine you need a high level of zinc(900 ppm +) to protect that flat tappet cam. I use Shell Rotella 15w40 diesel Pick an oil with lots of zinc stay with it and change the oil and filter every 50 hrs. or at the end of the season BEFORE winterizing. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 4:08am
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Thanks I'll drop into eurocarparts today for a look. Something like this be ok ? http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/15w40-engine-oil/?521776111&0&cc5_246 |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 9:55am
Like the previous poster said, you want some with a high zinc content. The Mobil 1 has 1200ppm of Zinc. Is Mobil 1 not available over by you? I'd read the link I sent you. It goes into other oils people recommend and also has a chart showing how much zinc and phosphorus each type of Mobil oil has. There's quite a difference. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
gmars70970 wrote:Posted By: Big Fish
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 10:51am
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Check out the Lucas oil products. They have regular, synthetic, and racing oils and I know some have high zinc. Their oils can be a little pricey and hard to find but you can usually find them online (amazon). I think the vendor I previously used was BB Bentor on the west coast. Their website is: http://www.buylucasoil.com/ |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 11:55am
| You can probably find Liqui Moly over there that would be a good choice. I run that in my wife's Mercedes diesel it's on of the few oils that meets the MB standard. |
Posted By: schultz
Date Posted: April-19-2014 at 11:43pm
| i was always told to use straight 30? I use a quart of lucas also and it seems do do pretty well. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 12:19am
By whom? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: schultz
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 1:45am
| Woody at southeast correct craft at the time. |
Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 10:50am
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Anyone using Valvoline VR1 20-50? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 11:20am
Yes! Hadn't been till I started reading all the oil recomendation threads and the guys who know said.... you need to be using VR1 or something with Zinc in it. I didn't know but do now. Just another reason why this site is such a valuble resource. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 11:49am
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What kind of filter should I be using? Those orange ones seem popular----- ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 11:56am
Gary you love stirring the pot 
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Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 12:11pm
Gary, I thought you were using the http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toilet-Paper-Oil-Filter-/151235889112?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23365c87d8" rel="nofollow - toilet paper filters! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier 62 Classic.. 73 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 12:14pm
I certainly have nothing against Woody but he's "dating" himself with the straight 30. Yes, at one time all the marinizers recommended the straight 30 but those times have passed with the advent of muti viscosity oils. Using a 20-50 as an example, you get the low friction cold starting of a 20 weight but then at operating temp the viscosity of a 50 weight. I've been using VR1 20-50 for several years in ALL my engines. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 12:15pm
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Wait till Pete gets here - Your in trouble! edit Morning Pete - Sir  ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 12:19pm
BTW, I remember those toilet paper filters! Then, they went out when that outfit with the orange filters started doing their big marketing scam!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 12:50pm
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I suppose I should start a new thread on what toilet paper to use? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: mslitti
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 1:04pm
| Yes that is all I use is VR1 20-50 with a Wix filter. I have a 1999 28' Pantera sr. I just put a $14,000 engine in, so the oil is very important in what I use. The VR1 is high in zink. I also run that same oil in my 87 BFN. |
Posted By: Sam Hamm
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 1:04pm
| I believe I was told on here to run straight 30 in my 454 BFN. When I do a oil change should I swap to 20-50? Or will I see more leaks now since I have ran straight 30 for two seasons? |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 2:02pm
I'm running it in all my boats. On the question about a 454 - I run the same VR1 20W50 in my 454 jet boat that I run in my GT-40 351 Sport and '63 Buick V-6. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 2:11pm
"Todays" oils are about 85% oil / 15% additives. "Todays" roller tappet cams don't need the zinc to protect them and the cam from metal to metal contact. Some spring pressures on the cam be close to 300psi when the valve is open. Zinc/Phosphorus probably isn't recommended for a 1999 $14,000 engine but probably won't hurt ether. It adds friction but is a good high pressure protectant. +1 on the zinc & wix filter for the 87 BFN. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: April-20-2014 at 7:12pm
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Wow........ Loads of advice. I changed the oil & filter today & plan on testing the boat out tomorrow. Unfortunately I'd changed the oil before seeing all the responses, I've put in valvoline ALLclimate 15-40 for tomorrow but I plan on changing it again before the summer. Thanks again |
Posted By: cadunkle
Date Posted: April-21-2014 at 2:40pm
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I wouldn't expect any issues with that oil. These are not highly specialized or high performance engines in these boats, but rather they are low output marine engines, very mundane. Unless you have a high lift cam and stronger valve springs there is nothing to worry about with all the zinc and phosphorus content fear mongering. I'm not certain what oils are available overseas but from a quick look that Valvoline all climate should be just fine. It is a SL/CF rated oil for diesel engines and from what I can find zinc is around 1100 ppm, fairly high if true. That number is not direct from Valvoline so it may be incorrect. The majority of oils sold in the US are around 900 ppm zinc and perfectly fine for the the vast majority of stock or mild flat tappet cams, in Scotland I have no idea what a typical oil is. I'd say to be safe just run whatever diesel spec oil is readily available. You do not need to worry about wiping a stock low lift smooth idling SBC marine cam. Again, if you have a performance cam with higher lift or stronger valve springs, then you must run an oil with high zinc and phosphorus content, 1200+ ppm to be safe. 1100 ppm in that Valvoline is quite good though and nothing to worry about. |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: April-21-2014 at 7:06pm
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Well I had the boat out on its maiden voyage today. Everything felt great. Cant wait for the summer now!  
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Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: April-21-2014 at 7:33pm
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Graeme, Dude - that tower is up there! Did you fabricate it yourself? 3 meters off the water? More? ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: April-21-2014 at 7:42pm
Is it a 5.7 350 Chevy or a 5.8 351 Ford? Is it a repower or the original motor. My 80 SN had a factory 350 Chevy but they are somewhat rare?? Would imagine the Valvoline would work with all but a Roller Chevy may want something more like the 15w40 most commonly labeled as Diesel Oil. Any pics of the Motor?? |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: April-21-2014 at 8:07pm
Sorry typo, it's the 5.8 Ford engine. Original I think |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: April-21-2014 at 8:10pm
The tower was on the boat when I bought it, I didn't realise just how high it was until you mentioned it ! I've not towed anybody yet from it tho. |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-22-2014 at 1:34am
Cory, agreed on some of your comments, but turns out its a SBF, and there's a lot of experience on this site that says you need a good zinc content for the flat tappet SBF. By the way, if a guy asks what kind of oil to use, and a few people answer that he should use high zinc content oil, I wouldn't call that fear mongering. It's just giving the opinion that was asked for. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-22-2014 at 2:09am
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Graeme, boat looks awesome! I really need to get out on the water soon, but where I am the river is too high and the lakes still too low. Not to mention COLD! ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: gR@HaM
Date Posted: April-22-2014 at 7:49pm
The vr1 20w50 we get over here is a straight mineral is this the same stuff? http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/330939454772" rel="nofollow - ebay UK ------------- '82 Ski Tique |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: April-22-2014 at 8:44pm
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From Valvolines website: What solutions does Valvoline offer to the zinc issue? Valvoline offers two solutions to the zinc issue: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil: Contains 75% higher zinc than SM motor oil with a balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and street-legal applications. This product will protect older style push-rod and flat tappet engines. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity grades: 20w50, straight 50, 10w30, straight 30, straight 40, and straight 60. Longer-Lasting Zinc/Phosphorus: Valvoline uses an advanced zinc/phosphorus additive that keeps higher levels of phosphorus in the motor oil where it protects the engine instead of poisoning the catalytic converter. Valvoline is the only brand offering this unique additive across its entire line of passenger car motor oils including SynPower -- the only synthetic oil that offers this additive. Which oil has more zinc/ZDDP: VR1 or "Not Street Legal" racing oil? Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13 percent of zinc and .12 percent of phosphorus compared to the Valvoline "Not Street Legal" Racing Oil which contains .14 percent of zinc and .13 percent of phosphorus. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: April-22-2014 at 10:26pm
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From the moon is make out of green cheese wed site." We only use the finest cheese made from 100% moon" Sorry about that. Iv'e been certified in oil analysis by the Navy & Joint Military services since 1998. Manufactures have MILLIONS of dollars on the line when there representatives visit our lab. We listen to the sales pitch then test the products for the facts. We award contracts on test results. Use a quality filter, the right type of oil and change it every 50 hours and when winterizing. As an internal combustion engine runs the blow by pollutes the oil (a little) that causes the TAN # (total acid #) to rise in the oil. That's bad on the soft metals and etches the bearings. So don't let the engine bearings sit all winter in old oil. That's important. Iv'e offered to do oil analysis for you guys before and a couple guys have taken me up on it. It's cool to start with a base line and track engine wear every 50 hours. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: 63 Atom Skier
Date Posted: April-22-2014 at 10:27pm
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Another vote for 20w50 Valvoline VR1. Running it in a '63 Atom Skier with a the Ford Interceptor 256 V8, again for reasons of the flat tappets. I did a lot of oil research about a year ago and found the 20w50 Valvoline VR1 to be the oil of choice for older push rod engines with flat tappets. I'm glad to be reading that that is the general consensus here as well! ------------- Jason |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: April-22-2014 at 10:40pm
It was all I could find as far as Zinc and Phosphorus values. Mobil's site at least broke it down in PPM. Valvoline broke it down in percentages only. How much is it for an oil analysis? ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: gmars70970
Date Posted: April-22-2014 at 10:52pm
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The general opinion seems to be 20w50 Valvoline VR1 That'll do for me. As I said I changed the oil & filter on Sunday & tested the boat for an hour on Monday. No idea what the previous owners service schedule was like so I plan on changing the oil & filter again before using the boat over the summer (if we get one) Thanks for all the advice Graeme |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: April-22-2014 at 11:09pm
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JP, All soluble constituents are reported in PPM . Total acid numbers are percentages. PM your e-mail (and address) I'll send a couple sample bottles and instructions. It will get worked in the daily samples.  ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-22-2014 at 11:09pm
PPM = parts per million, it's equivalent to a percentage. Just divide by 1,000,000 and then move the decimal 2 places. Same thing. 1200 ppm is the minimum number I've heard speculated as being the minimum recommended for a flat tappet cam. I'm sure you have to be a little more careful about engines with more aggressive cams and valve train. But, I'll gladly spend the extra $5-8 per oil change to err on the safe side with vr1 or equivalent. It just seems silly not to with what's at stake. Getting all of the debris out of the engine after you wipe a cam lobe is no picnic. If I never have to do that again, it will be too soon. |
Posted By: Hussler
Date Posted: April-23-2014 at 12:37am
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All of our K blocks, chryslers, grays, y blocks, small blocks/big blocks get OMC cobra 10w 30, and from what I've read it doesn't have a special amount of zddp. Those new cadillacs, lts and ls's get synthetic something or other that's recommended by Chevy. As far as the 9 years I've worked at the marina I can only think of one iron duke that has a knock to it (Its been that way for at least 3 years)All other internal failures we've dealt with are overheating or bad winterization related. I'll be putting in the VR1 in my correct craft because of the more aggressive cam, but my 340 will just get conventional valvoline. My Jeep has a flat tappet and runs on conventional and sees redline very often on the trails. Just my point of view, I think stock motors are fine with conventional once they are worn in. |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-23-2014 at 11:00am
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Andy, could you work in an analysis on my truck? The damn thing always tells me I need to change my oil at 2500 miles when the specified service interval is 6000. Full synthetic in the truck. I got a kit from another company but I would rather talk directly to someone I know vs someone who just sends me a report sheet. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-23-2014 at 11:09am
| You need to have a pretty high end vehicle for the oil-life-indicator to have any sort of brains to it, Zach. Im sure yours is just based of mileage and has no idea what shape your oil is actually in. Running synthetic in the gf's ride and have to reset the oil life warning on the dash a few times between changes. |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-23-2014 at 11:35am
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My Tahoe is the opposite, I'm changing oil long before the oil life indicator says to. I read that it does some calculations based on miles, hours, speed, etc. to come up with the interval. Oil changes are one of those things I don't really need/want an indicator to "help" me with. Andy, I've really enjoyed doing oil analysis on my diesels, fun to monitor and I learned a lot in the process. To your point, someone like me really needs a guy like you on the other end to translate the results into "what it really means" rather than just a sheet of numbers. I had an Amsoil dealer that was very helpful with this. On my boats, I change the oil so long before it's useful life is up, and I have a lot of confidence in Valvoline VR1 at this point, so haven't bothered with UOA. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-23-2014 at 12:22pm
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The original poster and others still seem to be confused with what viscosity and what type of oil to use. Yes, multi viscosity provides benefits over the straight weight specified in the 30 year old manuals. Yes, most here will suggest high ZDDP level oils. You should find an oil that does both for you, many have been listed here many times. ------------- |
Posted By: cadunkle
Date Posted: April-23-2014 at 1:13pm
SBF, SBC... makes no difference so far as the cam is concerned, so long as we're talking non-roller on each. 900+ ppm is a "good zinc content" in that it's adequate for nearly all modern stock or mild cam engines, especially when they have 30 year old valve springs that weren't particularly stiff to begin with. These boat engines are about as mild as it gets, there is nothing special about a mass produced low output SBF. If there is in fact a lot of experience here that says you need a "good zinc oil", defined as 1200+ ppm for the sake of argument, then there should be a lot of wiped cams here. Since this is an oil thread let's get a roll call of everyone who has wiped a stock, well used and long ago broken in cam, in a CC, any boat, any car, anything with a modern V8 engine using a flat tappet hydraulic lifter cam. Please give details surrounding the cam failure, oil pressure, engine age and condition, what was found upon disassembly and why you believe it was (or was not) caused by the type of oil. Personally I recall two cam failures. One was a fairly aggressive cam that failed during breakin on a 302. This was right about the time Rotella switched to a new formula with less zinc, I remember when I bought the oil I double checked to be sure it was the right oil because the bottle was different. A few lobes failed, I want to say 3... Not catastrophic but they took a bit of adjustment after breakin and loosened up quickly thereafter confirming my suspicion of a wiped cam. The other was part of a catastrophic failure of an aggressive cam in a 460. Cam failure was result of loss of oil pressure and there was plenty of other damage as well. This failure had nothing to do with the type of oil used. Sure, run VR1 or whatever high zinc oil in your low output stock cam engine with 30 year old valve springs if you want. VR1 is a fine oil, I use it for cam breakin and anything with aggressive ramps or high lift. Another option is toss a bottle of cam breakin additive in whatever other oil you want to boost zinc and phosphorus numbers. Whatever helps you sleep at night, but personally I don't like it when misinformation is spread. If I'm wrong I should have had a lot of cam failures by now, but maybe I have just been lucky and all that experience here will chime in with abundant failures of stock cams since most oils reduced zinc and phosphorus content. |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-23-2014 at 1:19pm
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Like HW said, The OP's question. My 86 specifies 10-30w. Look on your valve cover. If it says that run it and observe your idle and operating oil pressure readings when off a hot run. If they seem low step up to 15-40. Rotella has the highest PPM of any normal over the shelf oil (not VR1). Rotella has been ran in flat tapped diesel engines for years but they did reduce the PPM of ZDDP in reecent years. It's been in all my flat tappets stuff for as long as I can remember with no issues. One of which being a higher lift higher spring pressure engine. Timmy, my uncle is a lead block engineer at Chrysler and they put a ton of time into the algorithms that calculate the change interval factoring in things like cold starts per cycle, operating time below operating temperature, load, throttle position and time, etc. He cautioned it was probably correct but I want to know for sure. I can change the oil and filter with synthetic that passes the MS Chrysler standard for like 25 bucks its just a pain in the ass to do it so often. My thing is, if we operated on the old 3000 mile interval, the truck would be just fine and run forever not knowing any better from the oil life indicator. Also, it seems as if the interval stays pretty much the same weather it's winter, or I'm towing, or I'm taking long unloaded trips, or it's summer, etc. I have just been rolling with about 3500 mile intervals. ------------- |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-23-2014 at 1:27pm
I agree the setup of these engines is mild, but the use is not. How many SBF's or SBC's in light trucks get floored from idle over and over again, and then run at 4,000 rpm steady for periods of time. You can't compare the stress of ski boat use with that of a car in my opinion. My '63 has a little 198 cu in. V-6 in it. I've run that engine at 3,600-4,000 rpm's a ton, and floored it to get skiers up thousands of times. Think it got that kind of use in an early '60's Skylark? So, you could say that because my V-6 hasn't failed, I should just run whatever oil is cheapest on the shelf. I prefer to spend an extra 15 or 20 bucks a year to run oil that is higher in spec and not wonder if it's good enough. And no, I don't have any personal cam wipe experience to describe to you in detail! And I'm hoping to keep it that way! ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-23-2014 at 1:29pm
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By the time I start to think my change oil indicator light burnt out in my '96 LT1 it pops on, about every 10,000 miles! ------------- |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-23-2014 at 1:48pm
Exactly. The stresses in a marine engine are much larger than probably 90% of truck engines. HW, the LT is a well oiled machine that takes her easy ;). ------------- |
Posted By: cadunkle
Date Posted: April-23-2014 at 3:22pm
The cam doesn't know if the engine is in a 2500 lbs car or a 4000 lbs boat so that is not relevant to cam failure. Cam lobes get most of their lubrication from oil which has already passed through the main and rod bearings and is slung off the crank, so higher RPM results in more oil to the cam lobes and lifter bases. Boat engine seeing sustained higher RPM should be easier on a cam than an engine idling around and at very low RPM. Why do you think the most critical thing when breaking in a new cam is to not let it idle? ... Because the cam gets very little oil at idle. The load on the engine is much higher in a boat, but that load is seen primarily by main and rod bearings. As long as your oil is not overheating and cooking from the high RPM it won't affect cam lubrication. If anything that would be an argument for synthetic oil given the sustained load a boat sees. Mobil does make a high zinc/phos synthetic oil if you'd like to kill two birds with one stone. Now I'm not familiar with that particular V6, however if it has a mild hydraulic flat tappet cam and similar oiling system to modern V8 engines in most newer boats then you should be fine with most off the shelf oils of suitable viscosity. Not because it hasn't failed but because there simply isn't enough pressure of the lifter base on the cam lobe to require particularly high amounts of zinc. For all I know your little V6 may have solid lifters, in which case even with a mild cam I'd run a high zinc oil. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-23-2014 at 8:34pm
Jim, I have seen Hercules (Chris) cams (the count is now at 4) wiped out due to owners not knowing traditional oils had the ZDDP removed due to EPA regs and the catalytic issues. How about some good facts about the OMC 10-30 and not just "I've read about it"? Who's oil is it since OMC doesn't produce it!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: April-23-2014 at 9:53pm
I don't agree. While I agree spring loading is the same at 700 or 4000 rpm, the rate at which the valve train has to depress those springs, and the rate at which the cam profile has to move the valve train, is very different and creates more stress at higher rpm. I don't for a minute pretend to be an engine expert, just my opinion based on what I know. You very well maybe be correct! ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: April-24-2014 at 10:47pm
| I find 10w 30 Quaker State to be quality oil along with a Fram filter. |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: April-25-2014 at 12:11am
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Pretty much flat tappet cams are cast and mass produced by the kazillions. Each lobe and each lifter are a matched set and they get to be a matched set at break in. Cast cams are soft metal by the nature of the manufacturing process. The cam lobes are induction heat treated (case hardened) on the surface of the lobes to a depth of .025 or so. That's what makes zinc/phosphorous additives essential for this type of cam. It's a high pressure thing. In tests I've scene 900 ppm will give very good protection. It's important to use oil blended with it. With zddp additives over saturation of the oil is possible and it could fall out of solution. You ever seen a thin film of mud in an oil pan? ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: schultz
Date Posted: April-25-2014 at 12:19am
| Yeah fram was fine on mine also but i switched and went with the motorcraft just because its what ford calls for. I bet theres about 2 companys making engine oil with different packaging! Probably all the same stuff.. |