1988 Ski Nautique Rebuild
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33514
Printed Date: May-04-2024 at 9:35am
Topic: 1988 Ski Nautique Rebuild
Posted By: wade_ab
Subject: 1988 Ski Nautique Rebuild
Date Posted: May-05-2014 at 8:39pm
Hey everyone. I bought a 88 Ski Nautique last fall and recently started working on it. I have been reading a bunch of peoples threads so I figured I'd make my own. This is how my boat looked when I got it. |
Replies:
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: May-05-2014 at 8:41pm
| And this is how it looked last weekend. Since then ive gotten more foam and decking out. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: May-05-2014 at 8:44pm
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-06-2014 at 2:26am
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So what's the plan? Watch out for the basketball hoop! ------------- |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: May-06-2014 at 2:42am
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Looking like a project that needed to be done, and you can do it! These guys on the forum are great resources, and there are a ton of threads detailing exactly what you need to do next ~ alternatives, etc. ~ and when in doubt ask. I am nearly done with my stringer replacement job and I had no idea what I was doing when I started, but there is certainly something empowering about it. My two cents: invest in a quality respirator and don't quit ~~~ and never tell anyone "You know I think that was the last time I'll need to grind anything." ~~ because a couple of hours after you say it, and vacuum out the boat, you'll discover something else that needs to be grinded down ~~~~ and you'll grind that, celebrate, vacuum, and then repeat the whole process over again. I am on my 3rd shop vac (all bought with American Express ~ so they automatically come with a 12 month warranty...) ~~~ lol Fun times! ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: CrazyCanuck
Date Posted: May-06-2014 at 4:30am
...If you are on your 3rd shop vac, then I bet you are using the filter they come with? You need a fine dust filter, like for drywall dust. Just clean them out once in a while and the vac won't overheat. ------------- https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRtW3vJrMHLdqBzndt9VX3oOpBuRopGlzKq9Ea7pAO7wnTuoD8E8g |
iplan wrote:Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: May-06-2014 at 9:26am
"Fine Dust Filter" ???? We don't have such things in the United States! What we have instead is this thing called an "AMERICAN Express Card" ~ which provides a 12 month warranty on every purchase you make; so even if they did make a "fine dust filter," you wouldn't need it (at least not for 12 months). Just kidding! ~~~~ That might explain a lot actually. I'll look into it! ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: May-06-2014 at 4:05pm
| Hey Iplan, I actually just got caught up on your build thread, it has been helpful. My plan is to do the stringer repair and all that goes with it, foam the hull, board the deck, carpet the interior with a dark gray, get new seat foams and skins, paint the boat, build a new wake tower, and add some goodies to it. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: May-06-2014 at 4:11pm
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I did get more foam out last night, also got the blower motor and bulk head out. I wasn't sure if I had to remove all this but my fresh air vents were all falling apart and weren't hooked up so I figured it would be best. Actually most of the vents for the blower and fresh air werent hooked up when I got it. Im not sure how safe this was for the previous owner.  
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Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: May-06-2014 at 8:36pm
Really? I'm shocked! I think there are much better threads out there that do a much better job of documenting the work. The problem with a lot of the best ones is that the photos are not active anymore (because they used photobucket) and the files were eventually deleted or something) ~ so you really can't see what is going on. All that said: your plan for the rebuild sounds good. I'm going to paint my boat this fall, and it'll be completely restored: 2012: engine rebuild 2013: chairs, doghouse, etc. were redone (should have waited on that because they were completed last May ~~~~ and the boat is still not done. Now: Stringers Before Next Season: Paint, and overhaul of the trailer..... then the boat I had a poster of on my bedroom wall in 1985 will be complete ~ except that the boat in the poster had was blue & white..... Ahhhhh, the things we do for love. ~~~~ Do you have an idea or plan for pulling your stringers? I know I pulled the starboard side main and secondary ~~~ doing a good job to try to keep things intact so I could make a template. I made both port and starboard side templates off of that set.... There was a significant bit of rot underneath the captain's chair ~ and my secondary stringers ended up being about 3/4 inch too low. I built the area back to the proper height using expoxy and fiberglass, but it would have been much easier to cut them too big and sand them down with a electric planer instead. You're making a ton of progress. Kudos ~~~~~~ ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-06-2014 at 9:23pm
3rd shop vac?? I don't care if you bought them with an American Express cad or not. They will catch on. The problem you have is buying CHEAP home center vacs! Have you ever read the specs? The cheap ones have a very bad duty cycle. You run them for any long period of time and you will burn them up. A good quality vac with a 100% duty cycle would be a Milwaukee but they get up there in price. We use only Milwaukee's at the plant since we went though so many of the cheap ones. Buy CHEAP and you get CHEAP!!!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: CrazyCanuck
Date Posted: May-06-2014 at 10:24pm
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I used to work at Home Depot. I have had my Ridgid shop vac for 10 years, and done tons of work with it. If you use the right filter and make sure you shake it off often so it doesn't cake up, then the motor will not overheat. Its the heat that kills. Sure there are more expensive units out there, but a good 60 dollar unit can last if you look after it. But you are right, one day someone will notice the wrong filter was used, and void the warranty. The Ridgid rep used to look for any signs of drywall dust as evidence....... ------------- https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRtW3vJrMHLdqBzndt9VX3oOpBuRopGlzKq9Ea7pAO7wnTuoD8E8g |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: May-06-2014 at 10:52pm
| try taking the filter off and cover the exhaust with a wet rag. |
Posted By: CrazyCanuck
Date Posted: May-06-2014 at 10:58pm
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The filter keeps the dust from clogging up the motor.... ------------- https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRtW3vJrMHLdqBzndt9VX3oOpBuRopGlzKq9Ea7pAO7wnTuoD8E8g |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: May-06-2014 at 11:33pm
| mmmm, the motor almost has to be sealed. No way can China design a vac that pulls air through the motor. If so, I wouldn't think they'd last 5 minutes under any conditions. Plus if they weren't sealed that time I had to use a shop vac to pump gasoline should've been a major disaster from the reaction of the armature. I've never taken one apart but certainly the motor drives a separate squirrel cage of some sort and the dirt moves through the cage and filter just catches the discharge air. That's how I'd design one anyway. Sorry, end of thread jack. Just thought removing filter might help suck the dust a lil better. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 8:05pm
Haha to end the discussion of vacs ill share yesterday afternoons progress.  I got the starboard secondary out without destroying it. I got to find someplace to order some fir. Everything is just pine here. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 10:34pm
| Clear "yellow" pine will work also. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: May-08-2014 at 11:32am
Will it work for the primary stringers too? |
Posted By: ny_nautique
Date Posted: May-08-2014 at 12:13pm
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Wade - pine is fine for the secondary stringers and you can find that at a Lowes or Home Depot. For the primary stringers, you shouldn't use pine. Plenty of other people have done rebuilds in Texas. Hopefully one of them will chime in with a source. You may be able to ask the place to order it. ------------- - Jeff 1999 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-08-2014 at 9:09pm
And how long did you run it?? Over an hour for each use?? Have you ever looked at the duty cycle as I mentioned?? I don't care who's name is on it, it's still a piece of CHEAP from China. As I mentioned, we went through plenty (4 if I remember correctly) at work before we went with a $600.00 Milwaukee. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: May-08-2014 at 10:01pm
| I called a lumber yard and they said they could order me some fir for $69.90 a board. Seems a wee bit much? Or is that the going rate for fir? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2014 at 7:52am
You need to clarify. A "board" is what? If it's board foot then yes, it's WAY high. If that's per stringer then it's good. Get your lumber terms correct!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: May-09-2014 at 9:37am
Such a tool purist. How many shop vacs could you buy and replace for $600? At the rate I'm going I could replace 12 vacs before I crested the cost of your 1 vac. Further, I'll probably use my shop vac (and probably every tool I've bought to do my project) once a month (on a good month) after I get my boat done.... so spending that kind of money on something I'll rarely if ever use is not a wise investment. ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: juniorwoody
Date Posted: May-09-2014 at 10:17am
Seems your terminology is correct here as that seems to be a likely cost per board which is what you said. Some here are very quick to pick apart what has been written and criticize and a lot of time is lost on the constant nit picking. That said please use douglas fir, not yellow pine. You will not get good service from the pine. ------------- The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: May-09-2014 at 11:02am
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Clear southern yellow pine!! NOT SPF THAT YOU FIND AT HOME DUMPO!!! Yellow pine is used as bleacher seats and also as exterior porch flooring. It is strong and weather resistant it also easily absorbs weather proof treatments as in CPES http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fpltn/fpltn-119-1952.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fpltn/fpltn-119-1952.pdf |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: May-09-2014 at 11:29am
| Yeah that price was for a 2"x10" 14' long. $70 per board for that just seems high but ill go with it. |
Posted By: juniorwoody
Date Posted: May-09-2014 at 11:36am
...as long as you confirm thats douglas fir your good, go with it ------------- The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-09-2014 at 11:41am
Pete, I used to think that buying the "best" was the way to go, but found that more times than not it disappointed me as it was never as good as I expected. Now I buy "cheap" and I find it seldom disappoints me. We've had a Ridgid shop vac for more than 10 years and not only has it serviced all our cars and boats, but also the many cars and boats my kids have detailed for other people. It's still going strong. For hand tools Craftsman is by far the best value/quality out there. 
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Posted By: juniorwoody
Date Posted: May-09-2014 at 12:06pm
 what Bruce said...------------- The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future |
Posted By: CrazyCanuck
Date Posted: May-09-2014 at 1:28pm
I used it to vacusand drywall over 1000 sft basement more than once, plus other things. Its more than paid for itself. 50 bucks vs 600. Don't think so. If you look after a cheaper tool, it will look after you in most cases. ------------- https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRtW3vJrMHLdqBzndt9VX3oOpBuRopGlzKq9Ea7pAO7wnTuoD8E8g |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: June-23-2014 at 5:42pm
I finally got my Doug Fir in. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: June-23-2014 at 5:45pm
I also got some more grinding done and built a "garage" to work under. Not really a garage but it keeps the rain off and its shady. And I put in a large order to US composites, so hopefully progress will speed up.  
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Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: June-23-2014 at 6:42pm
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Awesome! You're on your way now! A few final "getting ready to get ready" thoughts: 1. Try to enjoy each step in the process. 2. Try not get too hung up on deadlines. 3. Never make statements like, "I'm done with grinding after today" ~ and then realize that you've still got more grinding two days later ~ which saps all the motivation out of you. ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: June-23-2014 at 6:45pm
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Hey one other thing ~~~~ don't rinse that thing out with water! I say this from experience. All of your old stringer groves are going to collect water (happened to me). Doesn't sound like a terrible problem, but the water will get up underneath the layers of fiberglass inside the grove ~ and it'll stay there. You'll need to grind again to get it out. Look inside the groves now and see if this is the case (if you press down, you might see bubbles or a tiny bit of water squirt out ~~~~ if so, you're going to want to probably grind that layer down..... ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: June-24-2014 at 1:20pm
| I didn't think about it trapping water, ill check it this evening. Its been 95 degrees here just about every day so maybe it all evaporated. But either way I will stay away from washing it out. Thanks |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: June-24-2014 at 1:30pm
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Acetone is your best rinsing solution ~ since it evaporates so quickly. ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: June-30-2014 at 4:28pm
I made some progress over the weekend. I spent all day Saturday trying to recreate one stringer. I cut and sanded and test fit for a while. I got it where I was happy with it and started laminating it with epoxy and mat on Sunday. I started on one of the secondaries but didn't get far.      The boys wanted to help  here is the order from US Composits |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: June-30-2014 at 10:15pm
Take your drive shaft out before you accidentally step on it and bend it. 
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Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: July-01-2014 at 1:57am
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Now as I see it, there is too much success and not enough failure going on with this stringer job thread. I say, "leave the drive shaft in" ~~~ this way you will step on it, and bend it ~ or better yet, break it in two with the sharp end stabbing one of your dogs to death ~~~~~ and then there can be sufficient moaning and groaning in this thread to be believable! ~ lol Gun-driver is correct! Take that drive shaft out and keep working! You're doing a great job! ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: July-01-2014 at 4:31pm
| Hey Iplan, I was just rereading through some of your thread, what did you end up doing exactly to bed the stringer to the hull? Ive read several different methods and didnt know if any were better than the next. I have aerosil-cabosil. I was thinking about putting epoxy on the floor, then some mat and wet it out, then putting some thickened epoxy down and and then put the stringer in. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: July-01-2014 at 6:59pm
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I used different things as I went along.... I started with Milled Fiber mixed to peanut butter consistency (thick). I put a thick coat on the floor and on the bottom of the stringer so that they were connected. Then I made a seam on the outsides. It dried really hard, but never really smooth enough to simply wash and begin adding the layers of cloth ~~~ so I had like 3 extra steps ~~~ wait for the milled fiber to cure, wash it to get rid of the anime blush, grind the seam smooth, vacuum everything out, clean with acetone, then start with the fiberglass layers of cloth..... this was way too many steps. I think had I began laying up the cloth as the milled fiber began to kick I would have done better..... The second approach I used was aerosil-cabosil (also mixed to that peanut butter consistency). For some reason I could mix that better than the milled fiber. It is also tough to sand when it dries, but I started using a cheap paint brush to smooth the seams out instead. This was nice. Sanding/ grinding was averted at this point, but you still needed to get everything soapy, etc. I liked the aerosil-cabosil so much I ran out of it for the port side Secondary Stringer. So I cut up a bunch of fiberglass mat into really tiny pieces.... and mixed it with epoxy ~ until it got thick. It worked well, but it required sanding ~ as invariably those little strands of fiberglass would be sticking up ~ like a needle.... I probably lost a quart of blood running my fingers up and down the floor to find these things, and since I was out of other fillers, and had so much mat left over, I used this as my cover for everything.... So long story short: I like aerosil-cabosil for the stringers.....use a paint brush to smooth out the rough patches... ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: July-07-2014 at 6:17pm
| Got the right side primary stuck in over the weekend. I made a thick paste out of the fairing compound and used a spoon to smooth it out. Once it got firm I wetted it all down with some epoxy and laid out a 4 inch strip of bi-axial wetted it and rolled out the bubbles. Once it got firm I wetted it all again and laid out a 8 inch strip of bi-axial and wetted and rolled. Pictures to come, there is some forum error going on right now |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: July-09-2014 at 1:58pm
Here are some pics from last weekend 
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Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 3:36pm
I got the passenger side stringers pulled out, hull grinded, and new primary stuck in over the weekend. Hopefully tonight I can get the bottom of the stringer smoothed out with some fairing compound and tomorrow I can glass them in.  
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Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 4:00pm
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Hey great job so far.... One thing I'd do before I went any further is to cover the top of the boat ~~~~ down the sides, etc.... I've got dozens of tiny fingerprints (epoxy) that I still have yet to wetsand off my gelcoat. A couple of sheets of plastic and a bit of tape would have saved me a huge cosmetic headache... Also ~ I dig the oly plates ~~~~ exactly what I used....  ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 5:16pm
| Thats a good idea, I have been trying to be careful but I have already spilled a little epoxy on the back. I have to sand, prime, and paint soon so no use in adding more sanding than necessary. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: August-22-2014 at 10:50am
I haven't updated in a while, I test fitted the motor and had to make some adjustments to the stringer height. I cut and glassed my secondaries together with mat and epoxy, glued them down with a thick epoxy and Aerosil-Cabosil mixture, then I smoothed the bottom out with fairing compound. This weekend I plan to glass them in with my cloth strips.   Im slowly getting there. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: August-22-2014 at 1:26pm
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Awesome work ~~~ Things are coming together nicely, I'd say. Brings back memories! Are you going back with a fiberglass over foam floor, or a fiberglassed floor? ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: August-22-2014 at 4:24pm
| I bought some 3/4 plywood that ill glass down. I didnt want to go back with foam. After I glass down the secondaries im going to build all the perpendicular supports for the plywood. Then I guess ill have to start figuring out the bulk head stuff and all the fresh air vents. My boat didnt have a bunch of stuff hooked up when I got it so ill have to do some research and see what all needs to be done. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-22-2014 at 8:45pm
Good call on the no foam. I'm in faver of it. The 3/4" is overkill but simply adds more weight. Don't for get to glass the bottom side of the ply. It does not need to be a heavy weight glass cloth. Use the CPES treatment first on the ply especially the edges. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 79TiqueRebuild
Date Posted: August-22-2014 at 11:50pm
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Nice work! Brings back memories... One tip that was suggested to me was attaching wood blocks under my plywood floor where the screws for the seats attach. That give more than just the plywood for the screws to bite into. Cpes is good stuff. Fill screw holes with it also,then 5200. Hope this helps. Monty |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 3:57pm
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Yeah I bought the 3/4" at the local lumber store when they were having a 15% off sale but if you think that's too much I would gladly get some 1/2". They are having another sale for labor day. And my wife has a list of stuff for me to make out of the 3/4" so it would not be going to waste lol. What ounce glass would you suggest to do the flooring? And how many layers? Thanks for the imput |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 4:46pm
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I use 3/4" plywood..... I believe in Overkill. I did not cover the part of the floor that is faces the bottom of the boat with anything except CPES. My thought was that a layer of fiberglass on the bottom would trap water in the wood ~ if water ever entered from the top.... I went with 2 layers of fiberglass cloth connecting the hull wall top of the plywood, and then down over the exposed secondary stringers and finally onto the little pocket between the secondary & primary stringers. Then I put a layer of biax mat that tied the floor to the hull wall (as I wanted that bond as strong as possible). ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 7:44pm
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If I step up to like a 7.5 ounce fiberglass cloth would I only need one layer? or is it better to go with 2 layers of like a 4 ounce? |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 10:23pm
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The fan of Overkill in me says, "2 layers of 7.5 oz cloth." Personally, I would not use a single layer of fiberglass on anything.... just seems like a simple way to repeat the whole process.... I mean, you've done all the hard work at this point ~ an additional layer or two or three of glass is just going to make it that much better. ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-25-2014 at 11:02pm
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I know it is cheating, but epoxy resin has enough working time to put down 2 layers of cloth in same layup, wetting in between of course. Make sure any seams are not lined up with the other layer. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 10:28am
| Okay cool, thanks guys. Im putting in another order today and wanted to make sure I ordered the right stuff. |
Posted By: captbob626
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 12:43pm
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FYI. For what it's worth, I've seen plywood delaminate when not at least coated on the underside. I don't think cpes will stop it. I use cpes and a thin layer of glass, make sure you seal the edges good also. ------------- Bob Meimbresse |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: September-29-2014 at 8:09pm
I haven't updated lately, but I got most of the ribs cut, sealed, and glued in. I also started on the back portion of the floor. I cpes-ed it yesterday and will start glassing it this week along with cutting out the floor for the front.     
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Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: September-29-2014 at 10:59pm
I agree wrap the whole thing in glass even the sides. Most of the constant moisture is underneath that's where the rot starts. |
Posted By: iplan
Date Posted: September-29-2014 at 11:14pm
Are we sure about this? I thought that every layer of fiberglass was a potential bond that could be compromised? When I did mine earlier this summer, I just CPES'd the bottom 3 or 4 times. My reasoning was according to what I'd seen here: that "if" the water gets through to top of the wood, fiberglassing the underside would trap it there, and cause the rot to begin at the bottom ~ where it was trapped.... I also did little drainage holes ~ where the ribs connect to the secondary stringers ~ so that any trapped water would go to the back of the boat and into the bilge.... as long as the boat of the boat is tilted up.... then once it's all in the bilge, lower the nose and drain it out the drain plug.... ------------- 85 Ski Nautique 2001. Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: September-30-2014 at 9:17am
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As I understand your thinking I don’t understand the logic. If the CEPS is on the bottom of the wood to seal the wood to keep moisture from wicking up into it how is it going to allow the moisture to drain through? Mold does not need liquid water to start just moisture. Condensations, humidity, water all which the underneath of our floors are subjected to most of the year will promote the growth of mold and rot. My thoughts are if you cover the wood with a coating of glass then the mold spores can’t invaded the wood pores which promotes rot. I guess we won’t know which way is the best way to skin this cat for another 25 years or so when these resurrected boats get gutted again. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-30-2014 at 10:04am
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No, we are smart enough to know now! Alan rebuilt the delux wood seat bases in his 81, and after just a few years of use, they were already showing signs of rot, despite having been coated with epoxy. Cpes may have slowed the process... But no doubt fully encapsulating them in glass (not just resin) would have been the best at prolonging them. Probably overkill for seat frames, but not a floor! I think that if you rebuild with wood, you need to take all necessary precautions to prevent water intrusion into the structural members... They're not going to breathe if they're coated in glass on one side and cpes'd on the other. Keeping water out by sealing them as best you can and avoiding drilling holes, then keeping water away (no foam) is your best chance at avoiding future rot. |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: September-30-2014 at 10:28am
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I have also removed many pieces of what used to be marine plywood covered on both sides with west system epoxy and cloth (no CPES), that had turned into complete and total mush, rot would start at screw holes and move its way over. Of course these were not well taken care of boat by any reasonable standards, but the life of the costly repair was less than 5 years. If you are going to use an untreated wood in a boat do whatever you can to keep the water sealed out, everywhere you can. Then do everything you can to keep the boat dry. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: September-30-2014 at 11:55am
I got the front piece cut out last night, this turned out to be a chore. Lots of in and out of the boat.  When fiber-glassing the bottoms of the deck boards, is fiberglass mat sufficient or do I need to use cloth? Im also stuck on what size holes to cut in my bulkhead board. I know there are 3 holes for the blower/vent lines and one for the drain to the battery box. And there needs to be a big one for the cables but I keep seeing a 6th hole that seems to be about 2.5 inches in other people's builds. What is this one for? All of my stuff was rotted and trashed and none of my vents were hooked up when I bought the boat so I dont have a good reference. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-30-2014 at 12:04pm
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Either mat or cloth would be fine... Cloth will go a lot quicker and cheaper as it's easier to cut and soaks up a LOT less resin. Your call! The size of the holes depends on what materials you use for vent hoses and conduit. Original vents were 3". 2.5" PVC is an oddball size but is 2-7/8" OD. I'd use 3" at a minimum for the conduit, 4" if you can fit it. The last hole you are forgetting is the conduit running to the battery box for the cables. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: September-30-2014 at 2:20pm
| Thanks man, yeah I completely forgot about the battery cables. I really want to use something flexable for the vents, I think it will save alot of time if I can connect some flexy stuff somehow. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-30-2014 at 2:23pm
| Flex PVC works very well for that exact reason. |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: September-30-2014 at 3:56pm
| do you have to use a hard pass through or can you just run the flex pvc through the cut outs in the wood and seal it up? |
Posted By: wade_ab
Date Posted: October-06-2014 at 12:37pm
This weekend I got the two back deck sections completely fiberglassed and the bottom side of the mid front section glassed. I got one of the back pieces glued down.    Can anyone tell me what hoses connect to these inlets. Or they could be outlets? Either way, I cant figure out what hoses to connect to what. My boat has one intake hole on the left and two intake holes on the driver side. There are on two inlets/outlets on the blower motor so I need guidance. Thanks 
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: October-06-2014 at 1:09pm
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Different hull, but on mine, the blower one hose (suction side) that just winds up towards the bottom of the engine, under the doghouse. That's where the fumes would wind up, so that's where it needs to suck from. The output (blow side) winds up going out towards the top of the stern. The intakes, on the bow, allow fresh air to be pulled into the doghouse from the vaccume created by the blower or pushed from forward movement of the boat while under way. They would have ducting that allows air to get towards the bilge, but I don't believe they would ever be connected directly to the blower. |