84 SN2001 Holley Carb Part
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34538
Printed Date: April-27-2024 at 7:57pm
Topic: 84 SN2001 Holley Carb Part
Posted By: boardersdad
Subject: 84 SN2001 Holley Carb Part
Date Posted: August-31-2014 at 12:26am
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What are the part numbers for the fuel line nuts that attach to the Holley carb? 1984 SN2001, PCM 351W. On a trip with the family and a little fuel is dripping; unacceptable. I probably have to get parts at something like an AutoZone on the Sunday of a holiday weekend. Is that washer against the housing always metal or can it be vinyl? Thank you! Steve |
Replies:
Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: August-31-2014 at 9:41am
| I went through the manuals in the reference section and didn't really find part numbers. I guess it's just metal fuel line with flare fittings. We've got tubing wrenches which helped a lot. I guess I'll just match things up unless someone is able to reply with nut sizes, etc. Thanks. |
Posted By: mamigacz
Date Posted: August-31-2014 at 1:24pm
Are you talking about this part? If so, the part number is 26-43. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-31-2014 at 9:42pm
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It may be just a situation where you have to tighten it. You kind of have to take it apart before you tighten it or it might just spring back loose again. Actually mine seems to be a yearly ritual. I want to try one of those USCG approved rubber lines that Zach has. I feel like the metal transmits vibration. This thread should help a bit with how to manipulate the fitting; http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27143" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27143 No idea on the part #s I just got my washer and stuff from Skidim. |
Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: September-01-2014 at 12:48am
| Thanks for the replies. I couldn't find the larger barrel nut locally. Anyway my mechanic friend got it apart and the threads inside the carburetor inlet are no good. He said the larger nut appeared to have been cross-threaded. Put the SN on the trailer and had fun with other boats. Bummer though. How is it to replace that portion of the carb housing? |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-01-2014 at 10:43am
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Actually, that's the primary fuel bowl that the lines screws into, so, it's a pretty easy part to replace: You'll want to get a gasket too: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RN0052" rel="nofollow - http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RN0052 |
Posted By: mamigacz
Date Posted: September-01-2014 at 12:02pm
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There is a chance that running a tap threw it would correct the treads enough to seal without stripping again. The problem is you need to clean any aluminum chips that were cut from the tap. You don't want them in the carburetor. Otherwise, I have a primary bowl if you want to buy it? 35 dollars shipped? It would come with the float assembly, needle and seat and accelerator pump assembly. The only thing you would need to buy is a gasket kit.  Removing a the old bowl is very easy. Remove the four screws shown below: There are gaskets or nylon seals between each screw and the bowl surface. Make sure to check if these can be re-used of not. This will determine which gasket set to buy.  I always use a screw driver to pry on the surfaces shown below, to break the old gasket seal. Pry in the horizontal direction, not vertical. Try not disrupt the seal between the metering block and carburetor body. If you do damage that gasket, it will need to be replaced too (not a big deal, but more work).  Next, you have to wiggle and pull the bowl out of the cross over pipe. The cross over pipe is held in and sealed with an o-ring. Most of the time this o-ring can be reused, but it would be a good idea to look at it for cracks or tears. Again, this will determine which gasket set to buy.   Now that the old bowl is off, you need to clean off all the old gasket material from the metering block. If the o-ring came off the cross over pipe during disassembly, put in back on the cross over pipe with some grease or oil. When you put the new bowl on make sure the accelerator pump arm is orientated correctly and the cross over pipe oring slides in without getting hung up. Replace the four screws (with gaskets), tighten and your ready to go. |
Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: September-01-2014 at 7:49pm
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Thanks for the info, Brian. That makes me feel better. Wow, mamigacz, awesome write-up, thank you! Yes, I will buy that primary bowl from you. Do you have the nut that threads in? Where do you live in Wisconsin? Send me a p.m. and we'll work this out. Also, I want to change to the USCG approved soft fuel line. Where do I find info on that? Thanks for the help, guys Steve |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-01-2014 at 8:00pm
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Zach at n3 Boatworks ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: mamigacz
Date Posted: September-01-2014 at 8:41pm
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Yes, the nut comes with. eDo you have a paypal email address? Otherwise, I can list the part on ebay if you feel more comfortable with that? |
Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: September-01-2014 at 9:12pm
| PayPal sounds great. I sent you a PM. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-02-2014 at 10:03am
| Greet write up mamigacz, I suggested that be added to the faq thread. |
Posted By: mamigacz
Date Posted: September-02-2014 at 12:30pm
Thanks! 
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Posted By: boardersdad
Date Posted: September-09-2014 at 2:24am
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Ok, a super-loud shout-out of THANKS to Mark (mamigacz) for his cool write-up (above), for selling me the primary bowl we needed at a great price, for looking up the gasket part numbers for me, and for emailing answers to my many questions. My son and I got everything put together and it's running leak-free on the garden hose. The old primary bowl came off with a bit of horizontal prying as Mark said, and the metering block stayed in place. The bowl gasket and bolt nylon gaskets looked compressed but not too bad, but I replaced them anyway. I put a new o-ring on each end of the fuel transfer tube. I found the gaskets locally at O'Reilly using the part numbers Mark provided... For Holley 4160 carb: primary bowl gasket 108-92 fuel bowl bolt gaskets 108-98 fuel transfer tube o-ring 26-37  The float height was set almost identically--a 7/64" drill bit was the largest that would clear between the float top and the bowl wall (bowl upside down). It's a little tricky getting the bowl in place with the fuel transfer tube and accelerator pump arm all lined up, but we took our time and got it all in place.  The threads in the old primary bowl fuel inlet were a total mess. The large nut that was in there did not extend very far into the inlet, and all of the threads it reached, maybe 1/4" inward, were trashed, almost not there. I have no idea what the PO did. The first time we touched this connection was over Labor Day weekend when we experienced the fuel leak. So THANK YOU, Mark, for your help on the carb bowl. For the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb, I switched to USCG Type A1 fuel hose. I know some people don't agree with doing this, but it's specifically allowed in the federal regs (33 CFR 183.558 - Hoses and connections. (a) Each hose used between the fuel pump and the carburetor must be "USCG Type A1" hose.) CFR 183.560 calls out the fittings; I went with the single-bead brass fitting that threads against the old flare surface. NAPA Auto had the brass fittings and ordered the USCG Type A1 hose for me. The fittings are specifically for a flare connection--NPT fittings will not work. Instead of a screen or cartridge filter in the bowl inlet, I put an inline filter in the fuel hose above the pump. Each connection is double clamped beyond the bead of the brass fitting. We initially had a little leakage from the brass fitting seal against the old flare surfaces (in the big nut at the carb and in an elbow fitting at the pump). I didn't have a torque spec. We loosened the hose and I cranked the fittings a little tighter (two wrenches), tightened up the hose clamps and no leaks at this point. We'll see how it is on the water when we get an Indian summer. |
Posted By: mamigacz
Date Posted: September-09-2014 at 3:46am
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Awesome!
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