351w Timing, Igntion & Overheat - Q&A
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=36110
Printed Date: April-27-2024 at 10:14pm
Topic: 351w Timing, Igntion & Overheat - Q&A
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Subject: 351w Timing, Igntion & Overheat - Q&A
Date Posted: May-22-2015 at 8:26am
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So I've searched high and low and yet still have some questions about timing my 351w. All other stories aside I had initially set the timing at 6 deg @ 600 RPM on the trailer. My mechanic said it would probably have to be adjusted once in the water and under load. I took the boat to the lake this past weekend; it started fine, but would cough / backfire under load and wouldn't get above 1500 rpm. I had my timing light with me, but couldn't get a good reading in the midday sun so I ended up timing it by ear. This got it running good enough to make a bunch of ski runs & drive around for the day. Since then I discovered I had plugs 2 & 3 were flip-flopped, I fixed that and now the boat fires right up an runs great. No pinging, no backfiring / coughing, just runs great. Questions: 1.) If I had it timed to 6 deg @ 600, why was it a dog on the water? Do you have to time it in gear like you set the idle? 2.) Other than the http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MEG109" rel="nofollow - Skidim Plug Wires are there any other suggested / off the shelf plug wires for my Malloy equipped 351w? 3.) Once everything is up and running I could stand to replace the points, or go with the electric ignition conversion. Any recommendations on this? |
Replies:
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: May-22-2015 at 9:13am
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You should be closer to 12* on initial timing. 600 rpm in gear you can do this on the trailer pushing against the bow stop. Make sure the advance is working should be all in by about 3000 rpm. Some guys haven't had problems with the EI conversion some guys have had nothing but problems. You will probably see that a lot of guys here prefer points or go with a electronic distributor. |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-22-2015 at 9:16am
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What should I be looking for at 3000 rpm? |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-22-2015 at 9:16am
| 10-12 initial will run much better. 6 is a recipe for a stumble out of the hole, I don't care what the book says. 36 final is the max, so long as you have at least 32 you're probably not leaving much on the table. |
Posted By: halfnelly
Date Posted: May-22-2015 at 9:18am
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6 deg is pretty conservative, and can cause it to run like a pig at low RPMs. I run 10 in mine and it still runs good on 87, it could probably go 12-14 with premium but I'm cheap. As gun-driver said, check the advance, I believe it should be 34-36 total by 3000. You'll need a timing light with an advance dial or some timing tape on the balancer. The 600 RPM figure would be in gear, you shouldn't have the idle set that low in neutral. Idle is typically set for 600-650 in gear. 600 in neutral would be 450-550 in gear, way too low. It'll chug and you can run into oil pressure issues if it gets any lower.. You'll probably have to mess with the mixture screws a bit while you get all this adjusted. If you don't already have one, a vacuum gauge makes all of this much easier because you can dial it in for the highest vacuum reading after you get the timing and idle RPM set. |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-22-2015 at 9:32am
 Thankfully I've hit the 600 rpm in gear mark so that's a step in the right direction. I'll try to get over to the lake an check the timing it in the water. Based on how much I turned the distributor and having it initially set at 6 deg I'd be willing to bet I'm pretty close.
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Posted By: mamigacz
Date Posted: May-22-2015 at 10:52am
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Your mechanic gave you some bad information. “My mechanic said it would probably have to be adjusted once in the water and under” The advance works on centrifugal force. Under load or in the water is not important. You can set the initial timing on the trailer if you want. Typically they won’t start advancing until you get to 1000RPM (enough centrifugal force to overcome the springs). Just make sure to set the initial timing (10 to 12 BTDC) at an RPM low enough (600 RPM would be great) so the distributor is not advancing. |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: May-22-2015 at 11:26am
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Ditto, concur with all the replies ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-22-2015 at 8:38pm
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Andy, Find a new mechanic. I concur with the others he doesn't know what he's talking about. Sounds like a back yard hack that doesn't know the difference between vacuum and mechanical advance. I would not let him touch my boats. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-22-2015 at 10:32pm
+ on a point set. No on the conversions! Andy, What are you expecting to gain with a conversion? Hopefully that "mechanic" you have isn't recommending it!!! Wait, maybe he doesn't know how to set dwell???  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
gun-driver wrote:Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-22-2015 at 11:07pm
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Boy Pete that seems a little harsh for someone you've never met. It may be hard to believe, but we all didn't come out of the womb with total inboard knowledge like yourself. At no time did I say he was a paid professional, just someone who knows more about V-8's then I do. That being said we're both learning here so I'd appreciate it if we'd keep the focus on the problem. As for my timing: I fired it up in the driveway and it seems my "by ear" tune landed at 12-13 deg @ 600 rpm. I dialed it back to 10-11 (hard to see in the sun still) and plan on rechecking & resetting in the lake tomorrow AM. As for the electronic ignition I saw them wile perusing Skidim and figured I'd ask. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-22-2015 at 11:38pm
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I have heard that if dead set to put a conversion in that that the Mallory E Sparks are the best. Accel conversions,other than color look to be the same. Pertronix seem to have problems lately. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-23-2015 at 7:33am
Andy, Sorry that You feel I was harsh but you said he was your "mechanic" and didn't add any other description. A better description other than just mechanic would have been helpful to myself as well as others. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-26-2015 at 10:12am
Noted. As for the boat: It ran pretty good this weekend. Still a few carb based issues, but they should be fixed when the reman unit arrives. Next project will be tackling a high temp / overheat at barefoot speed. I have a new 143 degree thermostat along with new impeller, strainer and hoses. The boat reads just shy of 160 on the gauge (145 with IR thermometer on intake) and will maintain this temp at idle and speeds up 30. Take it up to 43+ for a barefoot lake lap and it climbs to 200. Back off to 30 or below and it returns right back to 160ish. Everything is new, so I'm hoping it's just a not-so-tight hose clamp. I'll be inspecting the impeller, checking the cooler for blockage, looking for air leaks & tightening everything w/ a ratchet this week. 
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Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: May-26-2015 at 11:36am
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Hose connections aren't your problem anymore. You have a blockage or a marginal impeller. Check the condition of the impeller or blockage in the cooler. If that's OK you could have had an impeller frag on you and now pieces are lodged downstream from the RWP. Usually the thermostat housing. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-26-2015 at 3:15pm
| I just had the t-stat housing apart the other day installing a new gasket and it all looked clean, but I’ll definitely take another look. |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-27-2015 at 2:52pm
| I pulled the RWP last night, impeller looks like the day I put it in there. The strainer also looks good. I plan on pulling the cooler hose later, but I'm not holding my breath. It's a new motor, new hoses and the assembly has only seen 1 impeller which is perfectly intact. Like all my other problems I'm sure it's going to be a hard find. |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: May-27-2015 at 10:26pm
| Is the impeller a Sierra? |
Posted By: kytom2
Date Posted: May-27-2015 at 11:20pm
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I know you said you took the pump off and the impellor looked fine. Did you look on the suction side where the water enters the housing. I had the same symptoms you had, found a bunch of small fragments of the previous impellor lodged there. Still your finger up there and see if its partially plugged with debris. Or if it still off give it a visual inspection. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 12:19am
+1 They are known to be a problem. Stick with the OEM. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 1:57am
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you say it gets hot as your get into the higher rpms, I have to ask, what oil are you running? and are you running an oil cooler? also i read someone mention accel for ignition parts. In my opinion, they make a decent internally resisted coil, i have not used their distributors but do not use accel wires. they are rubbish. I have watched brand new sets leak while on the dyno. We would always send customers home with them still in the box and suggest they get some msd or OEM. -Tony ------------- 1988 Barefoot nautique-454 |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 7:59am
I'm an idiot, I misread. I did order 2 sherwood replacements.
I took everything off: Inlet to strainer, strainer, strainer to cooler, cooler to heater return wye, heater wye to RWP, RWP, RWP to T.stat, and both T.stat to exhaust hoes ALL CLEAN. I also climbed under the boat and checked the pickup grate and it too is clean I removed the heater return WYE (the one from Skidim) when I reassembled, we'll see if that was causing any restriction / leakage and tightened everything back up.
5w-30 w/ no oil cooler. My plan is to get out and re-test it tomorrow night. I want to pinpoint the rpm range it starts to heat up. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 8:03am
| Overheat at speed is a pump or impeller problem (if not a blockage). Order the proper Sherwood and I bet the problem goes away. |
Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 8:22am
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what RPM are you planning to run at most of the time? roughly. If you plan to do a lot of footin and having that thing spun up more often than not i would be more inclined to run something like a 15w40 or even 20w50. I run 20w50 in my windsor. when I had the 5w30 in her it would get hot if i loaded it up or got into 3800+ rpm. I switched to the 20W50 with zddp and i have never looked back. I'm also running an oil cooler. Are you sure your not jetted too lean? That will make it get hot in a hurry. ------------- 1988 Barefoot nautique-454 |
Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 8:58am
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this is the first i've read of the sherwood pumps being bad. but yes, i would start there if that is the case. ------------- 1988 Barefoot nautique-454 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 9:07am
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The issue is in using a non Sherwood impeller ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 9:13am
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I'd say 25% footin, 35% wakeboard / ski, 40% idle (evening cruising). Since I'm still running the old carb there's a possibility its leaning out at some point. The reman carb will be here and installed tomorrow. Another thing I should add. This past weekend we made 2 barefoot runs, the first was 1.8 miles and the boat didn't heat up that much (relatively) apx 180 deg on the dash. Knowing I wanted to measure temps I pulled out the IR thermometer and checked the intake next to the sensor pickup and it was 175 deg and the T-stat outlet (going to the U bend) and it was 119 deg (coldest I've ever measured it at the t-stat outlet). It had cooled down to 145-150 by the time we idled over to the kick-skis. The 2nd run was almost 2x as long at 3.5 miles and that one heated up to apx 230 on the dash, and 180-200 on the intake. It also returned to 145-150 within a min. |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 9:18am
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CORRECTION I just double checked my order for the impellers. They are Sherwood 09959K So, seeing as its a good Sherwood impeller any ideas where to go from here? |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 12:36pm
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While searching I came across this thread http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22632&title=engine-temp-fluctuation" rel="nofollow - Engine Temp Fluctuation post 8 by TX Foilhead said the PCM thermostat opens all at once and the NAPA variant opens slowly. I did install the NAPA thermostat a week or so ago. It says it's "Replaces OEM Name & # : Crusader 97631, Pleasurecraft RP026002E" Which is the Pleasurecraft part number listed at NautiqueParts.com. Could this have anything to do with the problem? |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 2:50pm
| What water pump did the motor come with? I assume your turning the motor righty is the engine pump bi directional? |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 3:00pm
| The new engine didn't come with a circulator pump, I opted for a new one over my used pump and purchased a new one from ebasicpower. It was ordered and looked to be a bi-directional pump. |
Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 4:04pm
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this may sound stupid, but are your mufflers rotated correctly? I just put my exhaust back together just right now and was getting about a 20 degree difference between the port and starbord side. i noticed the port muffler was rotated a bit sideways. i indexed it correctly and both sides are now perfect. just a thought. one more thing to be certain of. ------------- 1988 Barefoot nautique-454 |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 4:21pm
| I applicate the help, you never know which of the small details will lead you to the answer. As for my mufflers I'm pretty sure they are in the right orientation, they have 45 deg elbows molded right into them so they're pretty hard to not put in right.. |
Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 4:46pm
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haha roger that. mine, as you know are just straight. ------------- 1988 Barefoot nautique-454 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-28-2015 at 7:40pm
I have to ask why? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: May-29-2015 at 12:08am
I'm talking about the water pump mounted to the front of the motor not the raw water pump with the rubber impeller. Just to clairify which pump we're talking about. |
Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: May-29-2015 at 1:48am
The real question should be "why not?" I was mistaken about my engine running an oil cooler, the oil cooler i have runs to the gear. I don't know why i thought that. But most marinized engines I have seen run an oil cooler and i don't see any problem using them. ------------- 1988 Barefoot nautique-454 |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-29-2015 at 6:52am
Yes, the circulator pump is the one I replaced with a new marine bi-directional unit. 
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-29-2015 at 11:44am
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I'll throw an idea out there. I know you said you replaced all of your hoses, but are they wire reinforced on the suction side? Either way, see if you can have a buddy take a look under the engine cover while at speed and make sure nothing is collapsing or making any funny kinks or bends while under high rpms (high suction) |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-29-2015 at 12:16pm
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I'll admit only 90% of my raw water intake system is reinforced hose. The other 10% is made up clear vinyl hose that is not suction rated. Why would I knowingly use it? A.) I didn’t want to cut up my good hose when installing the Timmy T flushing hookup between the thru-hull and the strainer. B.) There isn’t much room in the Tique so after all the flushing parts are installed there isn't more than 1-2” between fittings so I went with the clear stuff. I did try to collapse a test piece with pliers and couldn't get more then 1/8" deflection. C.) I wanted to see how good the flushing system worked so having small sections of clear hose work as an in-line sight glass. Obviously it will be checked tomorrow on the lake. I would love nothing more then to be wrong. 
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-29-2015 at 12:25pm
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Sounds like you've put thought I to that aspect anyway. Make sure you haven't inadvertently built any restrictions into your flushing set up as well. Another thing I'd be interested to know, when your engine is in an overheated state, are your exhaust risers super hot as well? Just wondering because those are cooled more directly by you RWP and should Edit: NOT be temperature dependent on your Circulation pump and t-stat. |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: May-29-2015 at 12:32pm
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I'm Still suspect of the tstat. Some are highflow. Some don't flow much at all. and, it is oriented correct, yes? ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-29-2015 at 12:46pm
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It's something to keep an eye on, though I did follow the instructions outlined in this thread http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35646&title=advice-for-reviving-a-87-sn-2001-after-10yrs" rel="nofollow - Advice for reviving a '87 SN 2001 after 10yrs for building the flushing adapter. As for the risers: I can normally hold my hand on them and they IR temp out at 120-140ish. After the barefoot run I can touch them for a little bit, but they are hot (like 180-200). The exhaust hoses are pretty consistent so I though it was just the extra heat from running at higher rpms for 4-5 min. Also I tested it again yesterday off the hose and I was getting 145 deg at the thermostat to water pump neck. The water coming in was so cold it had condensation on the top of the t-stat cover and on the risers. When I ran it up to 3000 rpm for a few min the t-stat to pump neck reading would go up to 150 then drop down to 135 (I assume that’s the t-stat opening) Oddly enough though the gauge would hover right at 160-170 ish. Ignoring gauge discrepancy I wonder if I’m just getting an air pocket at the top of the intake where the t-stat and temp sender are located. As I mentioned before I had disconnected the lower (return) heater hose from RWP line, but I did leave the upper hose attached to the intake. Each of my heater hoses have ball valves so one of my tests tomorrow is going to be to open the upper heat hose ball valve, if it bleeds air out I know I’m drawing from somewhere. If it’s just water I can try to get an actual temp reading from the intake water. |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-29-2015 at 12:52pm
Me too. I mean it's a new t-stat, but you never know. For that reason I did dig out my original last night. If I don't see any improvements tomorrow I plan on pulling the "new" t-stat , test both of them on the stove and put the old one back in. As far as I know it's in there right, the spring side is down into the water. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-29-2015 at 3:06pm
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If the risers are hot the t-stat is not the problem. A stuck open t-stat will keep the engine cold and a stuck closed t-stat will heat up the engine but the risers will be cold. Get 2 garden hoses. Hook one up to the t-stat housing where the RWP usually supplies the engine. Do a bucket test with the other and monitor the RWP output as well as engine temp. If you only have 1 hose then go back and do a bucket test with a new long hose from bucket directly to the RWP. You've got a lot of connections going on in a tight space. ------------- |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: May-29-2015 at 10:36pm
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I see the struggle goes on with your overheat issue but only when working it hard. I read advice in this thread on setting your timing. I read your settings at idle but I never saw what your timing is at speed. Total timing is the timing achieved when the distributor is fully advanced. Most are fully advanced somewhere between 2,800 and 3,500 RPM. You need to find out how much timing you have when the distributor is fully advanced,. It should advance smoothly from idle to the point where it is all in. Once it stops advancing run it up another 500 RPM just to make sure you have a good reading and it really has reached full advance. Timing lights are available with a dial back setting or you can buy timing tape at a speed shop that you can apply to your damper to allow reading the timing all the way to 45 degrees. Marine distributors are famous for rusting the weights inside the distributor that control your advance. Some stick and don't advance. They can be cleaned and greased and returned to normal operation for no cost usually if you do the work. Total timing is far more important to good engine performance than timing at idle. Determine your total timing and set it at 34 to 36 degree's. Your idle setting should be close to the factory recommended setting when the total timing is correct. Once you determine how much advance your distributor gives you it will be easy to set the idle Timing. If the distributor gives you 24 degrees of advance you can set your idle to 10-12 degrees and know the total timing will be 34-36 and all is good. IE: 10 + 24 =34 degree's total advance. If you don't get similar numbers your distributor will need attention. Too much advance will make it run hot and can cause engine damage and pinging on acceleration. Too Little advance can cause it to run hot and have weak performance. Both are bad. You really need to know how yours is performing before chasing other issues. If your weights are rusty and sticky they can give you many operating issues. I hope you get dialed in soon, Ski Season is Now! |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: May-30-2015 at 6:06pm
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Update: 1st off, A+ for National Carburetor. My re-man carb came in at 5:30 last night and it is a thing of beauty. I mean I know how it looks has nothing to do with how it works, but I was pleasantly surprised to find a polished aluminum carb that looked more like brand new then a re-man. Anyway, I bolted it on with my new flexible fuel line and gaskets from Skidim and SOB if it didn't fire right up after priming. I've never heard anything like it, it was quiet, ran great and Idled down to 400 rpm (didn't even know the engine would run that slow, but I adjusted it back to 500-600). More amazing was the performance at the lake this AM. I mean I was happy with the performance before, but now it's like a whole new boat.  Lake test: 5:30am I fired up the boat and we made a run across the lake to pick up our 3rd. The boat seemed normal, ran at 150-160 the whole time. We picked up our third and headed out for the first glass smashing barefoot run of the day. My buddy kicked a ski and we were off. Just like before the boat ran hot after a few min. At full bore (45-46 mph) we were pushing 4300 rpm. Spec'd out at 4400 rpm max, 4300 rpm was too close for comfort so I backed off to 38 mph. Again just like before once we slowed down the temp dropped back to normal. After our barefoot run we pulled the engine cover and made another 45 mph run watching the clear section of the water inlet. No real bubbles to speak of, nothing more then I get running off the hose in the driveway. Getting back to the 4300 rpm speed. The boat came with (to me) a 12RH14 prop however I did pick up a 12RH15 to have as a spare. The fog rolled in this AM after our barefoot run so we pulled the boat & swapped props at the ramp. You want to talk about a different boat? I mine as well use the 12x14 as my anchor because that thing is NEVER going back on the boat. We made a 50.2 mph run (GPS confirmed) before we started porpoising and the boat had only gotten up to 3900 - 4000 rpm. We then cruised around at 41-45 mph (3200-3400 rpm) and guess what? Temperature stayed at 160-170. MrMcD: As soon as I get my hands on some timing tape or an adjustable light I will get that checked out. Currently I'm running off base time and the fact it does not (and has never) pinged. I plan on picking up a new timing light tonight. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-31-2015 at 2:24am
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It's interesting that the overheat problem seems to be correlated to RPM, not necessarily to speed or to engine load. This gives me another idea. Occasionally, impellers can fail (or be defective out of the box) in such a way that the metal part that keys into the shaft will spin freely of the rubber outer part. When I say spin freely, not necessarily "freely." Just that, with enough resistance, there will be some slippage. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: May-31-2015 at 5:43am
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It sounds like you are using the boat and having fun. Good for you. Glad the carb worked out so well. I had a 78 Nautique from 82 to 1991. I turned a 13 x 14 prop and loved it. The boat would cruise 40 MPH at about 3,500 RPM and did a little over 50 easily. I had pumped up the engine a little, raised the compression and ported and polished the heads but it ran nearly as fast before the new heads went on and I never switched to the 13x13. I loved the 13x14 on that hull. We did a ton of Barefooting and preferred it to the 1983 Nautique my buddy had. for barefoot runs. He did a lot of one foots and mine pulled over 40 MPH without hitting the 4 barrel. The only time mine ran hot was when the impeller was due for a change. Other than that it sat on 140 all the time. The owner of West Coast Correct Craft used to be on the lake with us and he always had a 454 powered boat. He could pull out more skiers but he could not outrun us as we crossed the lake getting to the ski area's. Used to tick him off. I loved it. |
Posted By: 80SN Barnfind
Date Posted: May-31-2015 at 1:56pm
Tony, real quick so as to not hijack the thread, you mention indexing the muffler and I'm wondering what the proper orientation is? I posted this same question to the forum a few years back and never got a definitive answer. Here's a shot looking down the end of one of mine;  Which way is up? ------------- Knowledge comes by taking things apart: analysis. But wisdom comes by putting things together. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-31-2015 at 2:49pm
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That is the correct way,opening down so that the water drains out. If you had the opening at the top water would collect ,making your exhaust pipe smaller too. Could also freeze if left in there. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: June-01-2015 at 2:05pm
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yes you want it to naturally drain or you will quickly fill your engine with water. The orientation i was asking in my thread before was which direction the flow wanted to go through the baffles. I decided to run it with the side you pictured facing the engine. i don't know if that was right or not but it seemed to work well. Andy good to hear you've got it going good now. what cfm is the new carb? ------------- 1988 Barefoot nautique-454 |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: June-01-2015 at 2:07pm
| 600 cfm, direct replacement for the one that was on there. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-06-2015 at 11:25am
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Andy, I think you just drove by me. I'm watching my nephews t ball game at the field by the Holland Police Station. It was getting (staying haha) boring. I was like, whoa, CorrectCraft... that's a Tique... I think I know what one. I snapped a pick to prove it; I'll upload it later. |
Posted By: LeftFieldEngineering
Date Posted: June-06-2015 at 4:37pm
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Caught me . We were heading to a different lake after our morning spot filled up with fishing boats. If your in the area again and want to come out for a ski. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-06-2015 at 9:33pm
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My brother lives right out there in Brimfield, so I'll definitely shoot you a line next time I'm out there. Hope you had a good day at the lake, it was definitely nice weather today despite it being a little overcast. Here is the proof 
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