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Dual axle trailer question

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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
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URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=38158
Printed Date: April-29-2024 at 12:26pm


Topic: Dual axle trailer question
Posted By: JPASS
Subject: Dual axle trailer question
Date Posted: February-23-2016 at 8:25pm
As you know we no longer have the Ski Nautique, but I'm hoping you guys could offer some input on my trailer questions.

So our new boat sits on a double axle galvanized trailer. We purchased the boat in August and when we got her the trailer tires were in good shape with plenty of meat on them.

I've noticed the left rear tire is considerably worn. We have to make a pretty sharp left turn when pulling out and backing into the driveway. The trailer groans and makes some interesting noises.

The left rear tire is distorted quite a bit when making this sharp turn and will leave faint trails of rubber on the pavement from tire scrubbing.

I'm worried it may be more than just tire scrubbing causing this wear. I have a new tire and wheel on the way and plan to jack up the trailer and check all the bearings. I'm also a little concerned that both rear leaf springs aren't really fully seated on the mounting bolts.

Being that this is our first double axle trailer, we have no idea what is normal and what isn't. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Here are some pics:













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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique



Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-23-2016 at 8:45pm
JP,
I know alignment with a dual axle can be a problem since there are fixed dimensions but get some measurements between the axles. Are any of the bushings in the springs worn? The left rear to me may be a spindle that's welded into the axle at an angle? The only way to check it is to pull both hubs off the left, clamp straight edges to both spindles and then measure between the two. Several years ago, Billy (boat doc) had a problem scrubbing one tire with his dual. I remember he finally changed tire brands and it cured the scrubbing.

The contortions tires go through with duals it tight turning is just the nature of a dual. No way around it!

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64 X55 Dunphy

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Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-23-2016 at 8:58pm
Is the gap between the edge of the leaf spring and the shackle normal? Both rears are about 2" from the shackle bolt, The fronts are nice and tight. Not sure how they look when the boat is off the trailer. Boat weighs about 3500 lbs. Trailer is a 2012.

Not sure about bushing conditions. I'll have to check. earliest I could start investigating would be Fri or Sat. I was thinking of running it up to the local trailer shop this weekend to see what they have to say.

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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: February-23-2016 at 9:22pm
Weird that only one tire is having issue. Makes me think something is bent, loose, broken
in that left wheel, spring, hub.

When I read the title of your post, I was expecting to all four tires to be wearing. It is pretty common that they undersize the axles on dual trailers. The damn things bow. I went through set of tires in 5K miles. Beefed up the axles and no problems since.

BKH


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Livin' the Dream



Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-23-2016 at 9:30pm
It's practically a 90 degree turn to exit my drive. I park on the right side of our driveway and have to make a hard left to get out of the driveway. I run as wide as I can, but you can see that left rear really scrubbing hard. The tires are flexing pretty good as well.

Backing her back in is even worse as my neighbor likes to park on the street making it that much more challenging.

It's the exact same thing at the ramp we frequent only the left turns aren't quite as severe. I hope nothing is bent,

Tire pressure says 50 psi cold. When I checked them last weekend, they all read about 40. I filled them all up to 50 psi,

Right side tires:






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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: February-23-2016 at 11:29pm
I have one dual axle trailer, not too fond of it. The forces on all components in tight low speed turns on pavement make me cringe. Having said that, the amount of damage to that tire is way beyond what I'd expect for just a few turns. Is it predominantly the left rear? Can you drop the tongue a few more inches and see if it turns easier? Just a thought.

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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique


Posted By: velde99
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 1:21am
So my dual axle trailer had a similar issue. Mine was the front left tire. Someone suggested that I get a different hitch to allow for better allignment. My trailer tongue was to low and was putting to much stress on the front tire. Not sure it that's what's going on with you, but something look into?


Posted By: velde99
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 1:25am
So I re read your original post. What you are dealing with is very similar to what I have experienced. The one thing I have found is those 13" tires are cheap!!!! You can get new ones with a rim for like $50. When my tires need replacing in going with a quality trailer tire like Goodyear and how to see an improvement


Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 2:26am
Unfortunately tight quarters with a dual or triple axle trailer is just going to be bad in general.
A good precaution is don't run aluminum wheels. They tend to break under the forces.
You will have less pneumatic trail if you run your tire pressures right where they are designed for the weight your towing. if you have a low tire it will do a lot more flexing.

Assuming all links and bushings and bearings are in decent shape the next step would be to run some string and do some measuring.
I take 4 jack stands and some twine and run them parallel on either side of the trailer and measure in to the wheels. you can measure toe and alignment of the axles to each other, you can also get a straight edge onto the inner lip of the rim and measure if you have a camber issue.
thats where i would start. You can fix these issues with a torch and a garden hose. by heating and shrinking the axle tube in certain areas depending how off they are.
I used to chew through tires in my flatbed hauler and i did some measuring one day and was appalled at how off everything was. a couple hours of heating and shrinking and she is spot on now. (you want to do this with weight on the trailer) easier to do with a boat trailer than car hauler.


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1988 Barefoot nautique-454


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 8:02am
Tony,
I like your use of a dry line (twine) run front to back for measuring. It sounds like a great way to check. Side to side for checking would work as well as long as you can get the dry line at a right angle to the frame. The old "3-4-5" would come to play for the right angle.
For anyone who hasn't used the heat and then quench method of straightening or bending metal, it does work. Just keep in mind that the side you quench is the side that will shrink. As Tony mentions, if there's a pronounced bend, heating and quenching in multiple spots will be needed.

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Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 8:20am
Thanks guys. This is all very helpful.I believe the hitch height and everything are OK as she sits level when on a flat level surface.

Our driveway has a slight downward slope and then there's a drainage dip on either side of the road where it meets the driveway ramp, so the angle created when I have to make the sharp turn puts the ball lower than both the truck bumper and the tongue of the trailer creating a "v" if you can picture it (not the best way to explain it I know).

I have no idea what brand tires on the trailer as of the moment. I don't see a manufacturer name on them ( H188ST ST175/80D13).

I'm pretty confident that I'm not the right guy to be making alignment measurements on the trailer, but I will give it a whirl. Like I said earlier, I'll be running her up to the trailer place this Sat to see what they have to say. I'll video me pulling it out of the driveway so you guys can see what's really going on.

I really do appreciate all the help. Definitely not a fan of this double axle trailer.



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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 8:33am
JP,
Keep in mind that the scrubbing you are getting on that left rear isn't from the tight turn into and out of your driveway. I feel as well as Tony feels, there's an alignment issue.

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Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 10:39am
so the twine method truly works great. I align my trucks this way, and knowing some of the guys behind the alignment machines at town fair and such places all they are doing is setting the toe and collecting your dough anyways. half of them wouldn't know the difference between caster and camber if you asked. Mention double wish bone and they think your talking about a turkey.
It would be best to do on flat surface BUT if your clever in setting the strings you should be able to get a good idea if that wheel got tweaked on a curb or something. It looks like a tire does when its over inflated for a long time to me.
Set the strings at spindle height and straight to the TRAILER front to back. making sure they are parallel and the same distance from center of the trailer. I use jack stands and they work good. most adjustments can be done outside of the leafs and you'll be surprised how much you can move them. same method gets used for solid axle trucks.

I was thinking a bit about this last night and have you done a brake job or tested the brakes lately? That one could be hanging up or in fact be the only one left working.


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1988 Barefoot nautique-454


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 11:05am
DayTony: I've used a slightly different string alignment measurement process when I used to align the tires on my race bike. Definitely not the same as what you are referring to, but if I understand you correctly, I'm basically boxing out the trailer with string and measure the distance to the string from front and rear edges of tires looking to confirm the distances are equal for each tire/axle. If not, then we know which way the trailer is tweaked. Do I have this correct?

As for the brakes, I believe they are all working properly as I've locked up all 4 when we first purchased the trailer due to the electronic actuator coming unplugged form the harness just forward of the folding tongue, but I will definitely be checking them again. The rotors tend to rust out when they sit for a bit and it's been raining, but they all appear nice and shiny once I get moving and the pads scrub off the surface rust.



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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 3:18pm
I always checked my setup only AFTER pulling forward a few feet and coasting to a stop. By doing it this way you are mimicking the way the trailer goes down the road. Often times when you stop after backing up you have loaded the equalizer. Also, am I the only one that has noticed that one equalizer is parallel to the frame rail and the other is bottom out against the rail?? Again, could be because of stopping after backing up. Pull forward and see if they are both centered. Spring eyes look way out of position. By listening to your statements you will be better off to have the trailer shop look at it for an autopsy. Nothing wrong with letting someone else help out.   Many of us (me included) tend to try to carry more chain that we can swim with.

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 3:33pm
Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:

Also, am I the only one that has noticed that one equalizer is parallel to the frame rail and the other is bottom out against the rail??


I thought the same thing when I first posted the pics, but the one that appears to be touching the frame actually isn't. What you're seeing is the underside of the hull. The frame sits a few inches above the rear upward end of the equalizer.



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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-24-2016 at 3:36pm
Originally posted by JPASS JPASS wrote:

Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:

Also, am I the only one that has noticed that one equalizer is parallel to the frame rail and the other is bottom out against the rail??


I thought the same thing when I first posted the pics, but the one that appears to be touching the frame actually isn't. What you're seeing is the underside of the hull. The frame sits a few inches above the rear upward end of the equalizer.


   OOPS, my bad

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-27-2016 at 10:46pm
Took her up to the trailer shop today. They said everything looked OK. He said the cheap bias ply tires were to blame and that he sees it all the time. He recommended going with radials. Looks like 2 new tires to start and then once the front ones are toast, I'll swap those out with radials as well.



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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: February-27-2016 at 10:52pm
Ha, that's exactly opposite what the trailer shop tells me for the same problem. Which one did you go to?

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1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-27-2016 at 11:06pm
Originally posted by JPASS JPASS wrote:

Took her up to the trailer shop today. They said everything looked OK. He said the cheap bias ply tires were to blame and that he sees it all the time. He recommended going with radials. Looks like 2 new tires to start and then once the front ones are toast, I'll swap those out with radials as well.

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Several years ago, Billy (boat doc) had a problem scrubbing one tire with his dual. I remember he finally changed tire brands and it cured the scrubbing.

Originally posted by Orlando76 Orlando76 wrote:

Ha, that's exactly opposite what the trailer shop tells me for the same problem. Which one did you go to?

JP,
I feel you need another opinion at another trailer shop. Call Billy and see what he did to cure his scrubbing. It was so bad that he blew a couple tires.
Did the shop actually check alignment or just take a quick look at it before trying to sell you tires?

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Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-27-2016 at 11:21pm
Originally posted by Orlando76 Orlando76 wrote:

Ha, that's exactly opposite what the trailer shop tells me for the same problem. Which one did you go to?


We went to Trailer Connection up in Fern Park. The only other place nearby that was open on the weekends was David's Trailers on 50.

What did the trailer shop tell you for the same issue?



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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-27-2016 at 11:37pm
Pete,

He did not check the alignment, but he did crawl around and look it over. He said this trailer has very little in the way of adjustment. He said he sees this problem with the cheap bias ply tires all the time. He said it was more than likely due to the scrubbing from the sharp turns and heavy weight of the boat.

He didn't try to sell me hard on anything, but did say that raidals would be better than the bias plies.

Ramlin is nearby, but only open during the week. I have some time off planned in 2 weeks, I'll run it up to them then.

I have family in town at the moment, so I didn't have time to run any string yet. I'll try to get that done tomorrow.

Here's some pics of the scrub marks left from today. Not too bad, but there nonetheless.







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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 11:42am
Ran some string and took some measurements this morning before company arrived.

Here's what I got:



Not sure if the tires were bound up a bit from backing it in yesterday, but it is definitely not squared up.

I'll see if I can bang out of work a little early one day this week and run it up to Ramlin.



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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 2:34pm
JP,
the measurements you are taking are from the rims correct? Have you checked for play in the wheel bearings? Jacking each wheel would be needed.

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Posted By: harriss28
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 3:41pm
JPASS is correct.......bias ply tires are junk


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 3:51pm
Originally posted by harriss28 harriss28 wrote:

JPASS is correct.......bias ply tires are junk

Shawn,
Fill me in. I've run bias plys on trailers and have never had a problem. Do you have a background in tires or is it just an opinion from personal experience?

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Posted By: harriss28
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 7:08pm
maybe you could do a google search????    

A good friend of mine owns a tire shop and Ive been pulling trailers for many years...so yes I do have experience and a limited background.

A bias ply tire doesnt have steel belts like a radial......there is only steel on the bead of the tire.

Bias ply tires have very weak side walls hence the reason they look like they are gonna pop off the rim when turning sharp.    

Trailers many times are sold with junk, Chinese bias plys.   As the tread wears out,   rock will cut the tires.

you pay for what you get

     


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 7:47pm
That may be true with today's Chinese bias tires. But my parents pulled a tandem Airstream thousands and thousands of miles through the 70's on bias tires. They were using Goodyear trailer tires. Radials were just coming into favor at the time with the gas crunch and were not fully developed for trailers,in fact a friend tried them and promptly took out a wheel well when one of his went,taking out a cabinet where the Mrs stored her wine too. Everyone had a good laugh about that. I have towed my tandem about 2K and my single about 6K with radials with no trouble. They have come a long way over the years. Chinese tires still scare me but you don't have much choice.

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95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 8:09pm
Not enough space I suppose but too bad someone doesn't invent a system that lifts one axle like a dump truck. Lift while maneuvering, lower while traveling.

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1974 Southwind 18
1975 Century Mark II


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 8:21pm
Originally posted by harriss28 harriss28 wrote:

maybe you could do a google search????    

A good friend of mine owns a tire shop and Ive been pulling trailers for many years...so yes I do have experience and a limited background.

A bias ply tire doesnt have steel belts like a radial......there is only steel on the bead of the tire.

Bias ply tires have very weak side walls hence the reason they look like they are gonna pop off the rim when turning sharp.    

Trailers many times are sold with junk, Chinese bias plys.   As the tread wears out,   rock will cut the tires.

you pay for what you get

     

Shawn,
Thanks for your input. I took your advice and did a google search using "radial", "bias" and "trailer" as key words. Here's a highlight from http://recstuff.com/pro-tips/radial-vs-bias-ply-trailer-tires-whats-the-difference/" rel="nofollow - Recstuff who is a suposed authority on trailer tires It was the first site that came up.

"What are the benefits of choosing the BIAS PLY trailer tire construction?
•Crosshatch construction provides stronger/tougher sidewalls
•Due to the design of the tire’s construction, bias ply want to roll straight as the trailer itself often does
•Generally Less Expensive

What is the best choice for my application?

Long Trips, Regular Trailer Use = RADIAL TIRE

Short Trips, Tandem axle trailers, Infrequent Use = BIAS PLY TIRE"

Notice the statement about tandems and the statement about side walls!!! Maybe you should spend more time (or less time) with that friend who owns the tire shop!!


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Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 8:23pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

JP,
the measurements you are taking are from the rims correct? Have you checked for play in the wheel bearings? Jacking each wheel would be needed.


No Pete, I took the measurements from the sidewalls. I can definitely check them again from the wheels.

I was unable to jack the trailer and check the bearings as I was limited on time, but that's my next step as I was planning on servicing the bearings being that I have no idea of their current condition since we purchased the boat back in August.

I need to get the rear seal size, so I can replace them anyway, so I'll need to remove the wheels sooner or later anyway.

The only consistent thing I keep hearing between this site and the Sea Doo site is that the tires that come with these trailers are as cheap as they come. I believe they're $60 with the wheel as opposed to $70 - $100 just for the radial tires.

I was also told these trailers have little to no way to adjust them. I did climb under there and measure the distance between the front and rear axles as close to the trailer frame as possible and the distance between them was exactly the same.



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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 8:26pm
JP,
Do check from the rims and not from the tires.

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Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 8:45pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

JP,
Do check from the rims and not from the tires.


Will do.

Still planning on bringing the trailer up to Ramlin for a second opinion.

Question: I was planning on only swapping the rear axles with new radials as the fronts are in great shape. Any problems with running the 2 different type of tires?

Yes, ideally I should swap them all out, but money is a bit tight at the moment as I'm swapping out all 4 tires on my car in the next week or so, plus the 2 on the trailer. 6 tires is already pretty expensive, let alone 8 new ones. It also doesn't help that we're in the middle of a master bath remodel that has us hemorrhaging more cash then we anticipated as well.

Fun fun fun

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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 8:52pm
By your measurements it would seem all the tires are favoring one direction.
Similar to this
   ^
/    /
/    /
def want to make sure you are not overlooking some worn components. especially on pass side. these measurements are consistent of the axle being pushed back on that one side slightly. (judging by your measurements you are def not looking at huge changes/adjustments)
Throw a tape measure on the tongue and measure back to the spindles or axles on either side, they should be close.
That small amount of difference could be getting thrown off if your on a hill too.

EDIT* just noticed page 2. and that you measured to the tires not the wheel. the rubber is not a good thing to judge off.



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1988 Barefoot nautique-454


Posted By: DayTony
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 9:00pm
Originally posted by JPASS JPASS wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

JP,
Do check from the rims and not from the tires.


Will do.

Still planning on bringing the trailer up to Ramlin for a second opinion.

Question: I was planning on only swapping the rear axles with new radials as the fronts are in great shape. Any problems with running the 2 different type of tires?

Yes, ideally I should swap them all out, but money is a bit tight at the moment as I'm swapping out all 4 tires on my car in the next week or so, plus the 2 on the trailer. 6 tires is already pretty expensive, let alone 8 new ones. It also doesn't help that we're in the middle of a master bath remodel that has us hemorrhaging more cash then we anticipated as well.

Fun fun fun


on that point, you are probably going to get a lot of don't do it or you shouldn't.IMO They are not going to fail as a direct cause of running them at the same time. they may wear differently but the reality is, most trailer tires become unusable from dry rot way before they ever wear to the point of needing replacement. so i would bolt them up and press on.
definately measure up and make sure everything is within reasonable alignment too.

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1988 Barefoot nautique-454


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 9:24pm
JP,
I don't feel it's a good idea to mix tires especially radials with bias. Since you say funds are tight at the moment, how about rotating the existing tires. Swap them in an X pattern just like a car and then put on some miles. See if the left rear tread scrubs the same on the rotated tire.

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Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-28-2016 at 9:51pm
After the last post about bias vs radials, I'm thinking maybe sticking with the bias ply. I do have a new tire and wheel coming Monday or Tuesday.

The majority of our boating is done on local lakes (less than 30 miles away and mostly side streets).

So far we've had no issues when trailering and she rides smooth and tracks nice and straight.

Maybe 5 or 6 times a year we will be hitting the East coast (approximately 120 mile round trip). I'd say we put about 1000-1500 miles on the trailer each year.

Ugh.....what a PIA.



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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: February-29-2016 at 9:39am
I'm in the Radial tire camp for my boats. After having been talked into a set of bias ply tires for the Hurricane a few years ago i can say I will never put bias on anything where ride quality is a concern. In my opinion bias plys are probably fine for utility trailers like a landscaper would use but they are not suited for something you have to tow over the road like to a reunion especially at highway speeds.

Seems no matter what you do with air pressure they ride like a brick and are noisy as heck, you can feel every crack in the road at the steering wheel, Plus they don't last nearly as long as radials do. After just 2 seasons on the Hurricane tires I replaced them all with a new set of radials, One tow and the difference is amazing, I'm not seeing the huge price difference either as radials cost about 25% more but last 3 times as long. Never again will I use bias tires on a trailer unless I retire and start cutting lawns for gas money.


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: February-29-2016 at 10:04am
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

I'm in the Radial tire camp for my boats. After having been talked into a set of bias ply tires for the Hurricane a few years ago i can say I will never put bias on anything where ride quality is a concern. In my opinion bias plys are probably fine for utility trailers like a landscaper would use but they are not suited for something you have to tow over the road like to a reunion especially at highway speeds.

Seems no matter what you do with air pressure they ride like a brick and are noisy as heck, you can feel every crack in the road at the steering wheel, Plus they don't last nearly as long as radials do. After just 2 seasons on the Hurricane tires I replaced them all with a new set of radials, One tow and the difference is amazing, I'm not seeing the huge price difference either as radials cost about 25% more but last 3 times as long. Never again will I use bias tires on a trailer unless I retire and start cutting lawns for gas money.


If the trailer turns out not having an alignment issue and it's simply the bias ply tires, then I'll switch to radials. I have time off on the 15th. I'm going to see if I can schedule an appointment with Ramlin to rule out any other issues.

I really appreciate all of the feedback.



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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-29-2016 at 10:17am
Alan,
Is it possible that you are over sprung on the Hurricane trailer? With my X55 trailer, it too ran like a rock when I first used it. I took a look at the boat and sprung trailer weight and ended up putting a set of 2500lb mono springs on the trailer. Wow, BIG difference! Typically trailers come through with springs to match the axle rating without consideration of what you put on the trailer. BTW, the trailer has bias tires on it!

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Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: February-29-2016 at 11:09am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Alan,
Is it possible that you are over sprung on the Hurricane trailer? With my X55 trailer, it too ran like a rock when I first used it. I took a look at the boat and sprung trailer weight and ended up putting a set of 2500lb mono springs on the trailer. Wow, BIG difference! Typically trailers come through with springs to match the axle rating without consideration of what you put on the trailer. BTW, the trailer has bias tires on it!


I pulled a leaf out of each spring last year Pete, it's much better but still a bit too much spring for the boat but despite that there is no disputing the difference between how each style of tire runs. I run 65-70 mph on several trips of over 1500 miles round trip each year.   The bias are just not the right tire for that kind of use.   We're leaving for the River Run in a few weeks and that will be 2400 miles,

To Jpass situation with his short hauls I wouldn't be as critical for the short term fix but would plan for a good set of radials down the road.


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: February-29-2016 at 12:39pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:


To Jpass situation with his short hauls I wouldn't be as critical for the short term fix but would plan for a good set of radials down the road.


I agree,,just rotate them for now. A month ago I was moving the Shamrock around but did not check the tire pressure on them. With the front mounted hitch I was able to see everything that was going on. Those tires being 10 lbs down looked as if they were going to roll right off the rims as I turned,pretty scary to watch those forces at work. Since I had no room to bring down the Nautiques tires I decided not to bring it up to Astor.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: March-15-2016 at 7:34pm
Took the trailer up to Ramlin Trailers today for a second opinion. Tech said everything was aligned properly and that that left rear was more than likely the "pivot tire" hence the excessive wear. At this point I'll replace the 2 rears with 2 new bias plies and rotate them regularly until they're all worn, then replace all 4 with radials.

He took several measurements to check for obvious alignment issues and everything was spot on.

He also said I could always ditch the tandem axle set-up and go with a heavy (5200lb) single axle set-up if I got sick of the tandem set-up. He said it would cost about $1000.

At least I have options in the future if I get sick of the tandem st-up.

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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-15-2016 at 8:40pm
JP,
I sure like the idea of going single. I hate tandems unless weight dictates they are absolutely needed.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: March-15-2016 at 9:31pm
I always go for fewer axles but larger axles. Less problems all the way around.

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Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM


Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: March-16-2016 at 12:56am
I'd normally say don't take a perfectly good and functional trailer and modify it, but if you have no choice but to make that tight turn it would be worth it to have the single axle, would solve that tough, tight turn with the wheels binding.

Question - I looked at the driveway pictures again. Could you approach at a shallower angle by letting the tires roll across the corner of the lawn? You could drop a 4x8 sheet of 3/8" plywood over it before backing in if you didn't want to tear it up. I bet it would take a lot of the bind out of the turn.

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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: March-16-2016 at 8:27am
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

Question - I looked at the driveway pictures again. Could you approach at a shallower angle by letting the tires roll across the corner of the lawn? You could drop a 4x8 sheet of 3/8" plywood over it before backing in if you didn't want to tear it up. I bet it would take a lot of the bind out of the turn.


I absolutely could do that with a sheet of plywood. The reason I never did was because there are 2 water meter boxes there and didn't want to possibly drop a wheel into one of the boxes should I break the cover. Plus I also have irrigation in that corner as well.

The street is quite narrow compared to others. For instance, my brother's street is a little over 30' wide, where mine is roughly 21-22'. The extra 8 feet would certainly make my life easier.

I'll swap out the rears with 2 new tires and see how much life I get out of them, then I'll replace all with the radials and see how long they last. If I continue to burn through them quickly, the single axle may be a cheaper option long term.







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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-16-2016 at 11:33am
you're in FL. st augustine grass? roll right over it no plywood needed


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: March-16-2016 at 1:07pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

you're in FL. st augustine grass? roll right over it no plywood needed

Ha, yeah right.

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Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: March-16-2016 at 3:02pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

you're in FL. st augustine grass? roll right over it no plywood needed


4500 lbs tends to rut the crap outta any grass down here. Especially my lawn being that the soil is on the wet, mucky side.

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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: March-16-2016 at 3:12pm
Just mount some air shocks on the rear axle, when u get home jack the crap out of it until the other tires are unloaded and back her in

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-16-2016 at 3:42pm
Originally posted by JPASS JPASS wrote:

Especially my lawn being that the soil is on the wet, mucky side.


stop watering?

Originally posted by JPASS JPASS wrote:

I also have irrigation in that corner as well.


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: March-16-2016 at 3:44pm
If you walk the same path twice on St. Augustine it's dead and doesn't re-seed.

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Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: March-16-2016 at 4:18pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:


stop watering?


Lol. I rarely ever have to water the lawn........because the soil is so mucky. The irrigation was there before we ever moved in. We may water the lawn 10 times a year at the most.




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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-16-2016 at 4:21pm
but you're worried about breaking it


Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: March-16-2016 at 4:52pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

but you're worried about breaking it


Yup. Cause then I'll have to fix it for the few times I do decide to water the lawn. I was more concerned about breaking the water meter boxes than the irrigation. A sprinkler head is way cheaper than a water meter.



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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique



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