Ski NAUTIQUE 2001 overheat? Or??
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=38329
Printed Date: May-07-2024 at 6:09pm
Topic: Ski NAUTIQUE 2001 overheat? Or??
Posted By: Blake71121
Subject: Ski NAUTIQUE 2001 overheat? Or??
Date Posted: March-28-2016 at 1:57am
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Okay so I am a new Correct Craft owner and I've got to say I absolutely love my new to me 1985 Ski NAUTIQUE 2001. Here's the issue: I have searched and seen countless numbers of threads on my same exact symptoms but no one has posted an answer to the problem. My Ski NAUTIQUE has the 351 ford and yes it does have a newer electronic ignition. The boat runs flawlessly for about an hour or so but then the engine begins to cutout and will eventually shut off. I have no issues restarting the motor after this and can even put the boat into neutral and rev it no problem. However as soon as I put the boat into gear it will shut off again. Is this an overheating issue? The boat does not seem to be overheating and if it was I would think it wouldn't start and rev. I have had many tell me this could be vapor lock or possibly a fuel issue but if it was fuel I shouldn't be able to rev the boat in neutral correct? Any help or suggestions would be great! I really haven't done much to the boat since I have gotten it but plan to replace the impeller soon and possibly the thermostat. If anyone has solved this problem in the past please chime in with how you resolved it! |
Replies:
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: March-28-2016 at 10:41am
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What is the indicated temp on the gauge when this happens? It doesn't sound like an overheat issue as much as it sounds like a fuel issue. You're able to rev it in neutral with no issue because there's no load on the engine, once you put the load on the engine, she dies. Once this happens, can you get back up and running after some time, if so, how much time do you typically have to wait? Have you checked to see how much vacuum you're pulling at the intake manifold? ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: March-28-2016 at 10:49am
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A cheap Non Contact IR Temp Gun is an asset to anyone's tool box. Then you can verify what the temp really is. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: March-28-2016 at 10:57am
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What newer electronic ignition are we talking about here? That sounds like the problem to me. This is not an overheating problem at all. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Blake71121
Date Posted: March-28-2016 at 11:04am
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The temp gauge is reading around 160 and I am not sure of its accuracy. I do have a temp gun but did not have it handy on this last outing to check. It typically takes about thirty minutes to an hour to get back up and going. But the problem reoccurs much sooner say 10 minutes or so and it starts again whereas sitting overnight its fine the next day for a decent while. I have not checked the vacuum at the intake manifold |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: March-28-2016 at 11:06am
With no more symptoms than what you list then a quick fix is hard at best. I would tend to lean towards electrical issues. Not knowing if this is a new condition or pre=existing that the Previous Owners could not fix does not help either. I would look at the coil first. If it breaks down with heat then that could do it. Also check to see if it is the correct OHM coil for that conversion. Electronic Ignition is great item IMHO. (That is a can of worms on this site however) Check all connections to ignition. Good luck, it may get frustrating hunting down intermittent issues. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Blake71121 wrote:Posted By: Blake71121
Date Posted: March-28-2016 at 11:27am
| I would say the previous owner had similar symptoms because it has a new distributor, new coil, new electronic ignition, new starter and new plugs. I have receipts for all the parts if you'd like the specific brands or part #'s. When I purchased the boat we test ran for two hours with no issues. The first couple days with it were great until I started having this issue on the last outing. I suspected the choke or maybe carb needs rebuilt but reading up on the issue has me second guessing myself. |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: March-28-2016 at 11:32am
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My freind had a pertronix ignitor that had as symptom like this, ok for a while then fail.. I belive it should have been wired with the ballast resistor, because the V meter would bounce with each spark, the igniter was seeing too much current without the ballast, and damaged the igniter, and afte3r a perior, would cut out with higher rpms and kill the engine. To answer your question, yes you can rev the boat in neutral with a severe fuel delivery problem. There only way to flow the equivelent volume of fuel is under load. If the the engine 'begins to cut out' as you worded, that suggests it may surge a few times before dieing, indicative of a fuel volume issue. You may still have a fuel delivery problem, they manifest much like your symptom. Suggest disassembling the hose barb and dip tube on the fuel tank, there is sometimes a cone screen in the assembly and a check valve in the hose barb., that is where crap first collects and blocks flow. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-28-2016 at 12:07pm
| A whole bunch of new/random ignition parts sounds like a problem too. Please do post exactly what all is wired up and their part numbers. |
Posted By: Blake71121
Date Posted: March-29-2016 at 12:03am
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Well I was completely wrong to trust the seller. Turns out the coil is not new it is the original coil with the motor. As for the electronic ignition turns out it is actually a Mallory distributor with dual points. I have decided to go the electronic ignition route and have ordered the ignition conversion and 40,000 volt coil to go with it setup for the Mallory distributor. Along with checking the fuel filters and pickup in the gas tank anything else that may cause these symptoms? Plan to change the water separator filter and thinking about rebuilding the carb although the boat runs great for the first half of the day. It is a Holley 8105B four barrel Does have the new OEM starter and Solenoid which was installed by a shop at the end of last season along with the Mallory Distributor $850 in receipts for all that. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: March-29-2016 at 8:32am
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I don't believe that 8105B is a marine carb. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-29-2016 at 8:56am
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I'm going to go with Tom's idea on ignition issue. Also, HW's comment on a bunch of "new/random" ignition parts thrown at it doesn't sound good. The cause of the problem needs to be determined before just throwing parts at it. Is the new Mallory distributor marine? No on the vapor lock. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: March-29-2016 at 10:19am
I don't know of any Marine dizzy that has dual points and the carb number doesn't sound like a Marine unit either. Is the 8105B the list number on the carb? I would verify those aspects and fix before going any further. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Blake71121
Date Posted: March-29-2016 at 10:32am
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It is a Mallory marine distributor, and it does have dual points. The distributor is on the Mallory website listed for the Ford 351w marine applications. As for the Carb it is a Holly Marine Carb 4150 the # printed on the barrel is 8105B which is also for marine 351 applications. I did call and confirm both with the dealers before jumping to conclusions. I do not plan on throwing parts at it but the coil is well overdue to be upgraded and electronic ignition is what I wanted on this boat regardless if that was the issue. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-29-2016 at 10:41am
Blake, I have to ask why? Are you expecting some type of gain? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Blake71121
Date Posted: March-29-2016 at 10:52am
| I'm aware there is no gain simply a reliability and piece of mind. I had constantly replaced the points in my old fourwinns and have had a Pertronix system in it for 4 years now without an issue |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-29-2016 at 11:00am
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So it has points. I guarantee the only issue you may have with the points would be a condenser. You need to check the output of the ballast resistor as well. The older coils are of much higher quality than current production and seem to take a lot longer to show an over voltage situation than a current coil. I wouldn't put in electronic ignition if you don't have to. The dual point setup will support about twice as many engine Rpm than you'll ever turn that ford. That dizzy is some sort of rare bird. If you really want electronic I would keep that cool dizzy and buy a DUI and call it a day. DUI eliminates the need for s coil killing two birds with one stone and getting rid of the ballast resistor. You'll need new plug wires too. Points are literally one of the most reliable ignition systems available and with proper maintenance and operation basically last indefinitely. Don't start just replacing parts (like the last guy). Listen to what all of these guys have to say (remmeber you're the new guy to cc) and you'll fix it soon enough. ------------- |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-29-2016 at 11:02am
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There was something wrong with your 4 winns ignition system if you replaced points constantly. My points and condenser have somewhere north of 900 hours with no adjustments just lubrication. Also, 160 is slightly warmer than you usually see a carb 351 run. I suspect your volt meter on the dash may be running slightly under 12v making the gauges read artificially high. If not, check the actual engine temp with your meter. If that looks good but the gauge is still high run a dedicated test ground to the sensor and dedicated grounds and positives to the gauge in question. Disconnect all wires from the gauge and sensor before you do this test. If the gauge is still high you have a gauge or sensor issue. ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-29-2016 at 11:40am
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Or the PO put in a car thermostat or just fitted the wrong one------ ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Blake71121
Date Posted: March-29-2016 at 12:54pm
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I see the electronic ignition is a touchy subject. So I keep the points and we rule that out as an issue. So I need to check the screens and filters first for a fuel issue and if the problem persists rebuild the carb? To rule out the electrical issue I need to check the coil and ballast resistor? Anything else to suggest. I plan to troubleshoot this weekend. As per your comment on the volt meter, mine does read low, suggests 10volts even though my battery is new and reads 12volts on my digital multimeter I assumed it was just an off volt gauge. |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: March-29-2016 at 1:47pm
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The whole issue is quite possibly caused by bad wiring to/from the dash - if not the overall cause it is a confounding variable which will make other troubleshooting efforts unfruitful. Clean up your connections and check on the quality of all your wires and crimps. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-29-2016 at 1:50pm
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^^^^^^^ Our suggestion would be to fix the problem as is. I will wager money on that if you get your volt meter at 12 or above you'll see 145 degrees like you should on the gauge. Like Joe said, electrical trouble shooting requires you to start with the basics. If the basics aren't working your other diagnostic efforts will be in vain. Your dashboard has one ground wire and one positive wire in the main 8 pin harness. From there the positive distributes itself to the circuit breakers. You need a multi meter and you need to start at your main battery cable on the starter solenoid. From there power goes to the main 40a rear breaker. Follow that all the way up to the front testing voltage and cleaning connections. An electrical system is a road map you follow until you find the break point. It could also be an issue with the ground side. Start playing and see where the issue is. Likely you'll have more than one issue. Note: when testing positive use a direct ground to the battery. Likewise when testing ground. |
Posted By: cmacbuck69
Date Posted: March-31-2016 at 12:44am
| After it cuts out, you say you are able to turn it back on and rev it up correct? Have you tried to pop into gear and hit the gas hard (rather then putting it in gear and easing into the throttle) and if so will it the boat go? |
Posted By: Blake71121
Date Posted: March-31-2016 at 12:55am
| Typically it will not idle very long after shifting into gear but I have tried easing in slow in which it always cuts out. If I hit the throttle hard it cuts out even faster before the prop can even spin up. The last trip I was able to idle it back to the doc by starting it up multiple times and idling until it died out. I will trouble shoot the ignition, wiring, and fuel system this weekend. |
Posted By: lcgordon
Date Posted: March-31-2016 at 1:30am
| My buddies malibu does this. His has electronic ignition. Im subscribed to get any tips to help him fix it. |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: March-31-2016 at 4:10pm
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Remember to go through the whole thing. Dont stop once you find a problem. Typically you will find several. I had a boat that use to do the same thing, turns out there was an in line fuel water separator that was very small. had the metal element in it. Didnt take more that a spoon full of water to stop gas flow. Thing was starving for gas. However while trouble shooting it for a year we found many issues that were mostly electrical. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-01-2016 at 12:21pm
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I'm going to bet your coil is getting to much voltage heating up then shutting down till it cools down. Check these things and get back to us... 1) what is the OHM rating of the coil and is it a resisted coil or not. 2) Is the ballast resistor bypassed and/or what voltage do you have going from that to the coil. My theory is the PO has bypassed the ballast resistor and has 12v going into a non-resisted coil causing the coil to overheat. http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/enginewiring84.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> 
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Posted By: Blake71121
Date Posted: April-01-2016 at 12:42pm
| Thank you all for the help and replies! You've given me a lot of knowledge and I am very confident I have or will fix the issue. All the fuel lines looked great, the filters were clean and the carb was in great shape. Replaced the intake filter and started tracing wires, positive and ground. Thus far I have found three corroded connections and two ground wires that were completely unhooked. I have found a wiring diagram for everything and plan to rewire all the dash and controls. I have already figured out where the lose wires were from and am now showing 12 volts on the meter. Thanks again!! As for the EI looks like I may be adding the DUI and new plug wires in the near future to eliminate the coil and ballast resistor. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-01-2016 at 12:52pm
| A DUI is a big "chunk of jing" that you don't need to spend, you already have a brand new distributor!! |
Posted By: Blake71121
Date Posted: April-01-2016 at 1:25pm
| I agree, it is definitely a down the road purchase. My points will work just fine! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-01-2016 at 1:30pm
Blake, What intake filter? We have already mentioned questionable non marine parts the PO has installed. If you are talking about the thing that sits on top of the carb, it's not a filter nor is it replaced. The USCG flame arrestor is cleaned only. Please post some pictures before you drive a potential hazard. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Blake71121
Date Posted: April-01-2016 at 2:38pm
| My apologies, should be more specific!! By replace I mean cleaned and placed back on the Carb. It is a Holly Marine Flame Arrestor with the blue marine/boat logo on top. The previous owner definitely made some questionable decisions but the parts are all infact marine. I made sure to check and double check this before placing my friends/family in harms way. I will post some pictures shortly when I get it all buttoned up this weekend. |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-01-2016 at 6:27pm
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Sounds like some good progress. Like we all said before, with a boat that old you'll find multiple problems. Get everything addressed and you'll have one extremely reliable unit. I didn't like the look of the DUI because it's bulky but it's an excellent addition if you really want to go the EI route. Like Paul said, make sure to test the voltage to the coil running and that will tell the tale if that's the issue. I just completely re wired/re structured my 85 dash. Got rid of all the daisy chains in favor of some different style connections. If everything is in nice shape and the gauge is correct you should see 13-13.5 volts on the gauge running (actual alternator output) |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: April-01-2016 at 6:54pm
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Fixing all the wiring problems should help it. If it doesn't check to see if the , but there is a over-flow or siphon on fuel tank. I have heard of them getting plugged and vapor locking Gas. Back of hull on either left or right. Silver looking thing. ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-01-2016 at 7:50pm
Mike, To clarify, there are two items that can get plugged back at the tank. The first is the anti siphon. It looks like a fuel line fitting where the fuel line is connected to the top of the tank. The second is the tank vent. It's a hose typically about an 1" that goes from the top of the tank to a thru hull fitting in the boat hull. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-01-2016 at 7:52pm
Zach, Where are the pictures???   ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Blake71121
Date Posted: April-01-2016 at 9:36pm
| Both anti siphon and gas vent hoses are clear and clean. Good shape and free flowing. I'm really thinking the issue lies withen the electrical issues and if not rebuilding the carb will likely be my last hope. I plan on taking this week to rewire the boat. |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-04-2016 at 10:20am
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Pete, I was moving quickly so I didn't get and detailed pics of the wiring up close. Just w general shot not completely finished and a few of the new panel installed. Still have one air guide out messing with it so it's technically all the way finished. Ran it on Saturday. Shows 13.8 running without anything on and about 12.5 with all accessories on. Mission accomplished. |