Ring & Finger Removal on '86 2001
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=38470
Printed Date: May-14-2024 at 10:18am
Topic: Ring & Finger Removal on '86 2001
Posted By: 86ER
Subject: Ring & Finger Removal on '86 2001
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 8:05am
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I've got a 2001 model and will be using a pylon extension. I'd prefer to slide the extension over the factory pylon, which obviously requires the removal of the ring and finger. Naturally, I don't want to hack up the ring and finger trying to get it off, so if it becomes too difficult to remove, I'll go the alternate route. I've searched this site for removal procedures, but came up empty. I haven't looked too closely, but it appears as though the ring and finger is attached via pins or set screws. Is this correct? If attached via pins, are they solid pins of roll pins? Appreciate any info that you can provide. |
Replies:
Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 8:26am
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Have you considered the super delux boom mount in the "store" on this site? It will solve your issue and save some bloodied knuckles. ------------- '05 206 Limited '88 BFN |
Posted By: mark c
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 8:45am
| Mine (87 BFN) has two hollow roll pins holding it on, offset by 90 degrees and maybe an inch apart vertically. |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 10:31am
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If you can find a used Flite Pipe extended pylon the ring & finger can stay. Heard where some guys have great luck with it sliding right out and others have lifted the boat from the ring after the pins are removed. Definitely want to start soaking it in some strong penetrating fluid like homebrew 50/50 acetone/atf mix or I think it's Kroll & liquid wrench that rate the next best. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 10:43am
| We removed one from a 1970 pylon and it was stuck. Drilled the roll pins out and tried a number of methods to remove it. No luck. Machine shop got it out for $70. |
Posted By: mark c
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 11:42am
| Some idiot cut mine off flush, so I been drilled and tapped it for a 1/2" threaded bolt and put fender fashers on the top of the pylon with the center hole of the washer slightly bigger than the diameter of the piece left in the pylon. I go down and throw another twist on the bolt I ran into it every once and a while and its been soaking with all kinds of different penetrating oils and under tension now for about a month and it hasn't moved a bit. Have a feeling its going to have to be drilled out at a machine shop eventually. |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 12:57pm
What Greg said, I have a different pylon in the works but I will probably just end up running one of those. |
NCH20SKIER wrote:Posted By: Keith
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 2:15pm
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86er, The reason we have the Deluxe Boom Mount in the store is because it solves this exact issue. No need to remove or damage the ring while adding a boom extension. If you don't go this route, I do have some experience to share ... I've had to deal with this issue on two separate occasions. Once, I had an 86 with the ring cut and I needed to remove the remaining brass from the pylon. Another time I tried to remove a ring from the replacement pylon (no luck). I can tell you they all have 'roll pins' that need to be tapped out. With the ring, what you have is an aluminum pylon with a 1" bore down the center and a chrome platted brass ring with 1"x4" shaft that goes into the aluminum pylon. As someone has said, sometimes then just separate after removing the roll pins. This is very rare however. 20+ years of aluminum and brass locked together makes for a decent weld. For starters spray with lubricating oil and let it sit a day or two. If you have the means to do this, you can thread a 2" strap through the ring to something overhead and slowly 'pull' the ring with medium tension (too much and you will warp the ring). Long periods of medium tension is what you're going for. I've heard this can take up to a week to accomplish but I've heard it works. Others have inserted a board or pipe into the ring to try to gain leverage at twisting it loose. Be very careful with this technique as you can easily damage the brass ring. If the ring was cut off by a PO, you're only option is to get a 1" drill bit and slowly drill out the brass. I've done this and it's an easy way to break a wrist as the bit over bites the brass and wrenches your wrist. Go slow with light pressure. Last option is to find a replacement pylon with the ring already cut off or damaged. Then you can just swap out the entire pylon (this too has it's problems however as the old pylon sometimes does not want to come out of the boat). Good luck! ------------- Former: /diaries/details.asp?ID=6170" rel="nofollow - 97 Sport Nautique 1994 Ski Nautique 86 Silver Nautique 79 Mustang |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 3:23pm
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Maybe consider trade pylons with someone who's already had their pylon butchered and would like it complete. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 5:18pm
Keith, Your problem with drilling brass is because you didn't sharpen the bit correctly!  All it takes it to "dull" the cutting edge by grinding a flat on the cutting edge parallel to the bits length. This removes the positive rake on the cutting edge. Sorry the picture isn't very big but you can see the flat in the "K" view. Also, here's a you tube on it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ri6poVpQM8" rel="nofollow - Sharpening drill bits for brass and plastic ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 86ER
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 5:20pm
| Appreciate the info guys. I was planning to go with the Super Deluxe Boom Mount if I can't get the ring and finger out without too much difficulty. I'll soak it with some PB Blaster for a few days and add a little heat (pylon only, not ring and finger) if necessary, but if that doesn't do it, the roll pins will go back in and I'll go with the Super Deluxe Boom Mount. Just thought it would be a much cleaner install without the Boom Mount.. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 5:24pm
I would pull the pylon, drive the roll pins out, turn it up side down and soak the top foot in a 50:50 ATF:Acetone.
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Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 5:38pm
Only if you're out of PB blaster of course. ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 5:57pm
| You might as well soak it in air. |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: April-21-2016 at 6:28pm
| I wonder if vinegar would help dissolve the white rust inside ? |
Posted By: ultrahots
Date Posted: July-09-2016 at 11:58am
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You might as well soak it in air. Bout right. That stuff is worthless. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6960&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1980 Show Nautique |
Posted By: mark c
Date Posted: July-09-2016 at 12:25pm
I did that for 3 weeks, didn't help one bit, the thing is still stuck in there, So idiot had cut mine off flush with the top of the pylon and I had previously drilled and tapped the remaining shaft for a 9/16" thread bolt and was using spacers to try and extract it, but after letting it soak in acetoner and ATF for 3 weeks I kept cranking on the bolt hoping it would pop loose and the threads I tapped into it stripped. Now I'm going to have to drill or bore it out the rest of the way. |
Posted By: NCH20SKIER
Date Posted: July-09-2016 at 12:29pm
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Keep in mind I have a complete unit for sale if needed. I have not attempted to remove the R/F ------------- '05 206 Limited '88 BFN |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-09-2016 at 2:54pm
| Gently heating the pylon around where the roll pins are then dipping will draw in the penetrant up where you need it "inside" the pylon. |