sometimes won’t turn over to start
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3853
Printed Date: May-20-2024 at 3:13am
Topic: sometimes won’t turn over to start
Posted By: tcarden
Subject: sometimes won’t turn over to start
Date Posted: June-12-2006 at 9:45am
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My 82SN will turn over and start sometimes and then others it does nothing. I've replaced the relay solenoid, bypassed the nuetral safety switch, tried a different ignition switch to no avail. I'm thinking it may be a loose wire or shorted wire between the ignition and the control lever on down to the relay and trans. When I jump the relay with screwdrivers it starts fine, I can shut off and it might start right back up using ignition or it might not. I noticed when it doesn't that there is a pull on the voltmeter. Any help would be appreciated. I've looked at a lot of posts on this subject and I think I have tried the different solutions i.e. nuetral safety bypass, relay solenoid etc. Any other advice?
Thanks,  ------------- "Boat - A hole in the water surrounded by wood (and fiberglass) into which one pours money" |
Replies:
Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: June-12-2006 at 10:28am
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Guys, the more I think about it I'm thinking I have a ground short somewhere. Any good ideas on how to find it or has this happened to anyone else? ------------- "Boat - A hole in the water surrounded by wood (and fiberglass) into which one pours money" |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-12-2006 at 11:55am
| Well it sounds like you've done the big things, how about the little? Tried replacing battery wires? How hot do they get when you try to start and it won't go? |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-12-2006 at 12:04pm
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what's your battery's CCA rating? and the cable gauge size? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: June-12-2006 at 12:09pm
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Good question. I'll check at lunch to see the CCA. The PO did mention that the cable from the relay to the starter might need replacing but I don't know if he knew what he was talking about. That might be the problem in and of itself. A CC dealer told me to exchange the relay I bought with another one and get a new cable. I don't think they get hot when it acts up. Good ideas though, thanks guys! ------------- "Boat - A hole in the water surrounded by wood (and fiberglass) into which one pours money" |
Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: June-12-2006 at 1:36pm
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Make sure the battery cable/clamp connection is tight. Mine had rattled lose and I was having the same problems.
While you had the battery connectors off, slather some di-electric grease on the posts to prevent corrosion. I just thought about this, unplug the wiring harness and make sure you have a good connection there. |
Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: June-12-2006 at 1:42pm
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Thanks, Jimbo. I didn't have a chance to go by the house at lunch. I will work on it tonight and let you guys know what I find. I just can't think of anything else other than the new solenoid being bad.
------------- "Boat - A hole in the water surrounded by wood (and fiberglass) into which one pours money" |
Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: June-12-2006 at 6:52pm
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Generally shorting the solenoid out with a screwdriver and she cranks usually means the batt cables are working (not saying they dont need to be replaced). You have a issue with the solenoid, or wiring associated with it. Did you check to see if ground wire (one of the small posts) to the solenoid is OK?? If you own a testlight, put it between the 2 small posts on the solenoid and then watch the light and turn the key. See what the light does when it doesnt crank.
Jeff... ------------- MUSTANG COUNTRY http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17 |
Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: June-13-2006 at 11:44am
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Jeff, I used a test light last night and it looks like the problem is in the solenoid. I am going to get a new one today. I tested the ignition wire to the solenoid and it lit every time. I tested the solenoid itself via clicking sound and it did it for a few times and then nothing. Wait awhile and it would work a few times and then nothing. Pretty sure it's the solenoid. Showed 11.4 volts on battery cable at solenoid. ------------- "Boat - A hole in the water surrounded by wood (and fiberglass) into which one pours money" |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-13-2006 at 12:01pm
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Sounds like your going to have the same problem once get the new solenoid,
maybe you should spend your money on battery cables/cleaning, and a battery. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: June-13-2006 at 2:18pm
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Has new battery 850 CCA, I see no reason why the cables would be a prob. They checked out from an OHM continuity check. I have cleaned and or wire brush/file areas for grounds. I will liet you guys know if this doesn't work. I think I may have turned the mounting posts on the other soenoid when I tightened up the cables. Oh well, we'll see. I just don't see it as a big problem.
------------- "Boat - A hole in the water surrounded by wood (and fiberglass) into which one pours money" |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-13-2006 at 2:38pm
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your battery should show 13.5 volts and you should have that also at the end of the cable too so some where you are losing voltage or you bought a battery that's been on the self for several months, is it a deep cycle as well, I would also tighten the nuts on the solenoid before trying to attaching any other wires to tt so that post doesn't rotate. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: June-13-2006 at 2:47pm
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Thanks 79! I will double check my voltage reading. The meter was kinda funky. DC volt range selections were like 3, 12, 60, 300 or something and I just chose the 12. I may not be reading it right. ------------- "Boat - A hole in the water surrounded by wood (and fiberglass) into which one pours money" |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-13-2006 at 3:06pm
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your cables can be a problem as well if they are not sized correctly for the length, alot think a 2 gauge or 4 gauge cable is fine and dandy and they have no clue. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: June-13-2006 at 9:21pm
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If the batt cables were that bad (resistive), then the engine would barely crank, or crank real slow. Again, Im not saying youre cables are 100%, but they seem like they are functioning ok. If your test light lights across the small terminals on the solenoid, then the solenoid is bad. Replacing batt cables wont help the failure of that solenoid as it has a internal mechanical problem making it engage. If "no click" happens, hitting the solenoid with the key still in crank mode will usually free it up and engage. Good luck!!!
Jeff...  ------------- MUSTANG COUNTRY http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17 |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: June-14-2006 at 7:11am
Continuity check is no help determining the health of the cables, when a couple hundred amps is needed. An 18 gauge wire would show continuity and low ohms, but won't start a boat. An ohmmeter does not stress the connections and is useless in that application. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
tcarden wrote:Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-14-2006 at 9:11am
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jeff are you having a hard time reading??? no one said replace, I said check and if the cable is undersized then it can cause problems ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tcarden
Date Posted: June-14-2006 at 10:07am
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Put a new relay solenoid on last night, the second one, cleaned all battery connections with my trusty battery cleaning tool, noticed a worn place on the cable leading from the solenoid to the starter where it connects to the starter. the rubber coating right before the connection was worn and touching a starter bolt. Dont' know if that might have had something to do iwth it or not. Got under dash traced wiring found a loose connection tighten everything up. Seems to work now! the response when turning key seems more , how can i say it, responsive. Might take it out tonight and see.
Thanks so much to this site for all my questions! You guys are super. If ever I can help let me know. ------------- "Boat - A hole in the water surrounded by wood (and fiberglass) into which one pours money" |
Posted By: JEFF KOSTIS
Date Posted: June-14-2006 at 8:33pm
79, I do miss things, no ones perfect, but this is what you wrote. tcarden, glad to see it running right!! 
Jeff... ------------- MUSTANG COUNTRY http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074 - 1974 Mustang 17 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093 - 1976 Mustang 17 |