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Cutlass bearing play?

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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40496
Printed Date: May-08-2024 at 2:49pm


Topic: Cutlass bearing play?
Posted By: joshjanae
Subject: Cutlass bearing play?
Date Posted: February-06-2017 at 3:01pm
I just bought a brand new cutlass bearing from deepblueyachtsupply.com. The new bearing has the same amount of vertical and horizontal movement as the old one. How much "play" is acceptable?   Should I be concerned that I can wiggle the bearing? It is probably moving, freely, 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch. Probably closer to the 1/32 side.



Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-06-2017 at 3:05pm
Josh,
If you can wiggle the shaft, somethings not correct. What does the shaft measure out to? Is the shaft worn at the cutlass? Measure there as well as in the middle to get an idea.
EDIT: Is the play between the shaft and cutlass or the cutlass and strut?

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Posted By: joshjanae
Date Posted: February-06-2017 at 3:14pm
The play is between the cutlass bearing and the shaft. It is loose or able to wiggle at any point along the shaft. I need to get a battery for my micrometer so I can get some measurement.

I slid the cutlass bearing onto the shaft with out placing it into the strut. Is there a possibility that upon pressing the bearing into the strut it will tighten the bearing up some?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-06-2017 at 3:18pm
Josh,
The press fit of the cutlass into the strut isn't enough to make a difference in the ID of the bearing. Get the measurements.

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Posted By: joshjanae
Date Posted: February-06-2017 at 4:09pm
OK, I took some micrometer readings:

The area where the cutlass bearing sits reads .998" at the smallest and 1.006 at the largest.

Up high on the shaft near the hull the largest reading is 1.014.

The id of the new cutlass bearing is 1.005.

So it looks like I am running a difference of .007 to -.001 along the bearing area.

I don't know what that means really, other than is some places the shaft is a bit narrower than the bearing and others its a bit larger.

Do I need a new shaft?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-06-2017 at 4:55pm
Josh,
That .016 difference in shaft diameter isn't normal. There's always a tolerance on shafting typically + or - .001 but it's consistent through the length of the shaft. Do you know if the shaft has been changed out at one time? I wonder if it's a home made shaft?? The concern now however, is where the shaft runs in the cutlass. I would call Deep Blue and see what the cutlass tolerance is. I have never run into one that's over the 1" typically, they are .001 to .002 under the 1".

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Posted By: joshjanae
Date Posted: February-06-2017 at 5:00pm
This is what they told me:

Josh,

The bearing is correct. They are water lubricated bearings, so once the boat goes in the water, water will fill through the grooves and create a "film" around the shaft.

Mike


Posted By: joshjanae
Date Posted: February-06-2017 at 5:20pm
And after a follow up email to clarify, I got this:

Joshua,

If the diameter on the pads were smaller than 1", then the bearing would instantly wear upon use or worst case, wear the shaft. The bearing is not meant to be tight on the shaft.


Posted By: joshjanae
Date Posted: February-06-2017 at 5:24pm
What is the worst case scenario if I run it and it is a little too loose?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-06-2017 at 5:36pm
Originally posted by joshjanae joshjanae wrote:

What is the worst case scenario if I run it and it is a little too loose?

Some vibration. See how the boat runs and report back. BTW, I feel Deep Blue isn't entirely correct. Yes, the water is the lubricant but the .998 to me is on the large end. Who's the manufacturer of the cutlass? Morse?

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Posted By: joshjanae
Date Posted: February-06-2017 at 5:49pm
The manufacturer is Johnson. I will assemble it and let you know how it goes. Thanks for the input.


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: February-06-2017 at 9:23pm
I too put a new cutlass bearing in with new General Prop shaft & it had some play.

I only get some vibration in reverse.

A small amount of cutlass play does not affect shaft alignment at the tranny.



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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: February-06-2017 at 10:15pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Josh,
I would call Deep Blue and see what the cutlass tolerance is. I have never run into one that's over the 1" typically, they are .001 to .002 under the 1".


What are you trying to say here Pete?

Sounds like you want to put a 1 inch shaft into a cutlass bearing that's .998 or .999

That would be pretty silly.

Must need a big hammer to do that.

I gotta agree with the Deep Blue e mails that Josh got and with SNObsessed too.

.005 clearance for a 1 inch shaft seems to be the accepted number,


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-07-2017 at 5:50am
Having dealt with bushings and sleeves on a daily basis in my trade, I think some of you are a little misinformed about interference fits. Especially on thin walled sleeves which is what we are dealing with here, When you have say a .005 interference or press fit on the O.D. of the sleeve then when installed the I.D. also compresses a like amount.
That said, a sloppy bushing I.D. before installation in the strut will not be as sloppy when pressed into the strut. That was exactly the case with the bearing that I ordered from the same supplier. Press it in and then check what you have. Be very careful to keep it straight when you start installing. Helps some to freeze the bushing and heat the strut some. I would not go over 250 degrees. Work fast. Quench with wet towel

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-07-2017 at 7:10am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:



What are you trying to say here Pete?

Sounds like you want to put a 1 inch shaft into a cutlass bearing that's .998 or .999

That would be pretty silly.

Must need a big hammer to do that.

I gotta agree with the Deep Blue e mails that Josh got and with SNObsessed too.

.005 clearance for a 1 inch shaft seems to be the accepted number,

Ken,
You are correct that my wording is backwards. Thanks for catching it.
Restating, on a 1" shaft, there should be .001 to .002 clearance and I feel the .005 is excessive. The rubber is resilient and unlike a hard metal or plastic bushing does "give" slightly. The .001 to .002 is plenty of space for the water film. My background with brass shelled rubber bushing goes way back and beyond marine prop shafts. At my first job, we would buy the Morse 1" by quantities of 100 for a water lubricated bearing application. One thing of interest is the higher the SFPM, the tighter you need to be on the clearance. We would shoot for .001 at 3600 RPM

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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: February-07-2017 at 9:01am
So, to simplify this................Josh has the proper cutlass bearing for a 1 inch shaft

Now as far as his shaft goes, once the bearing is in the strut, you'll know how the shaft really fits


Posted By: joshjanae
Date Posted: February-07-2017 at 1:41pm
Thanks for all the responses. It is all together and looks great. I plan on taking it out for a test run tomorrow with my son. He gets to miss school so he is pretty excited. I will post the results. This is my first inboard, so I very much appreciate the help. Here is picture



I picked it up for $1500. Stringers are solid and it runs great. I had the misfortune to hit a rock on the first day out. The good is that I got a brand new acme 540 out of it!!


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: February-07-2017 at 1:57pm
Great looking boat.

You stole it for $1500!


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Ben Franklin


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-07-2017 at 3:55pm
Josh,
Hopefully you checked the strut to log alignment and then moved forward to the engine alignment?

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Posted By: joshjanae
Date Posted: February-07-2017 at 5:06pm
That is how I did it. It was a bear to get the engine alignment right but with enough persuasion on those mounts I was able to get the engine to slide over.


Posted By: joshjanae
Date Posted: February-08-2017 at 8:08pm
Took it out today. It ran great. No noticeable vibration. I was doing 41 GPS with the acme 540. Does that sound about right? The tach read about 4000 rpm. Don't know how accurate it is though. Also, The steering cable broke. Made for a fun ride back. Where is the best place to buy one? Seems like by the time I am done I will have a nearly new boat.


Posted By: joshjanae
Date Posted: February-08-2017 at 8:10pm
My son at the helm.



Posted By: joshjanae
Date Posted: February-08-2017 at 8:14pm
$309 for a new steering cable from nautiqueparts.com?? That is steep.

http://www.nautiqueparts.com/product/steering-cable-all-nautiques-from-1982-to-1990/



Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-08-2017 at 8:28pm
Tach vs speed looks correct with that hull and prop/.. but youre missing 400-500rpm (4-5mph) worth of performance (assuming you're not a mile above sea level). How's the engine tune?

82-90 cable is cc-specific. Use the 10% discount code, that's the best you'll do.


Posted By: joshjanae
Date Posted: February-08-2017 at 8:45pm
Guess, I have to bite the bullet on the cable. The engine runs great. It is a new to me boat and I have only had it on the lake twice. I should probably do a complete tune up on it. Its only money right!! So far I am 2k into this boat but I'm still grinning form ear to ear. Also, the elevation of the lake is about 1650 feet.


Posted By: rolleronariver
Date Posted: February-09-2017 at 10:59am
$2k is unreal for that boat. Great buy!

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92 Sport nautique


Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: February-09-2017 at 11:00am
10% off code is PND @ Nautique Parts

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Posted By: Kegs319
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 4:07pm
New Member here. I just bought a '90 Sport nautique and have been reading up on this steering cable stuff. I've read that '82-'90 was a CC proprietary cable of 17.5 ft. My question is as long as the travel is the same at the "tiller", why couldnt you adapt into a 18' cable? i.e. Teleflex Thanks for the input.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 4:30pm
You mean use a shorter throw cable and a shorter tiller arm in order to keep rudder travel the same? Sounds like a recipe for increased steering effort.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 4:37pm
Originally posted by Kegs319 Kegs319 wrote:

New Member here. I just bought a '90 Sport nautique and have been reading up on this steering cable stuff. I've read that '82-'90 was a CC proprietary cable of 17.5 ft. My question is as long as the travel is the same at the "tiller", why couldnt you adapt into a 18' cable? i.e. Teleflex Thanks for the input.

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

You mean use a shorter throw cable and a shorter tiller arm in order to keep rudder travel the same? Sounds like a recipe for increased steering effort.

Increased steering effort plus increased strain on the components! Sounds like a problem to me. CC didn't go out and have special throw cables made just so they could charge extra $$ for them!
Brian,
How's your liability insurance??

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