Stringer rebuild 1987 Ski Nautique 2001
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40894
Printed Date: April-26-2024 at 10:32am
Topic: Stringer rebuild 1987 Ski Nautique 2001
Posted By: lharley
Subject: Stringer rebuild 1987 Ski Nautique 2001
Date Posted: April-20-2017 at 2:44pm
I purchased a 1987 Ski Nautique 2001 a little over 3 years ago. I knew when I got it the stringers were going to have to be re-done. I got it for a really good price the motor had low hours on it and the compression was very good. So after using it for 3 seasons every weekend from the first of May to the end of Sept. I decided that last Oct. I would tear it down and replace the stringers, clean it up and make the motor look nice. Here is my project. I will be more than glad to answer any questions and help anyone in any way. Please keep in mind I an not a professional boat builder or anything like that. I am a weekend carpenter and machinest. I tried to take pictures all along the process. The project kicked off the first weekend of Oct. 2016. We are finishing up around end of April to take it to the lake first of May. I will try to explane everything the best I can.         |
Replies:
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-20-2017 at 3:06pm
Mor pics of the tear down. I lable all wires with color coded tape to make it easier to put back together. Some things I just had to replace just to make it look better and for maintenance reasons.           |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-20-2017 at 3:36pm
So the day came to pull the motor. I though I had more pictures of us pulling it but in the stress of having my two teenage boy helping me and worrying about the motor busting my supports and crashing through the bottom of the boat I only got a few pictures. That was a stressful day. I build an A-frame in my shop with 2x6's. I think the material including 3 4 foot pices of 1000 pound test chains and the couplers were about $100 at Lowe's. I had a 1/2 tone chain winch that I used to pull it. I double braced the 2x6's and used a ton of 3 inch screws about every 4 inches on both sides of the boards. I tried to brace it in all directions just to be safe. Taking the motor out and putting it back in were the most 2 stressful days in the project. After putting weight on the top joist I decided to double brace it because it was sagging in the center. See last picture.        
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Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-20-2017 at 4:16pm
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I decided to strip the engin block and paint it ford racing blue and clean it up. This was only going to take me 2 weekends well once I started pulling things I started replacing parts. I got new valve covers that are black powder coated. The harmonic balancer needed to be replaced. It is next to impossible to find a harmonic balancer for a reverse rotation 351w for under $300. So I got a standard rotation one from Sumit Racing for $80 and used my dial calipers to re-scribe the degree marks on the other side of the 0'degree TDC mark. Next I decided to replace the distributor with the Flame thrower marine distributor for $275 on Summit Racing. I got a standard rotation flame thrower distributor and took the gear off my old one TIG welded a plug in it. I then chucked it up in my lathe and re-boarded the correct size hole for the shaft on the flame thrower distributor. There was a .030 difference in the shaft sizes from the old one to the new one. I also decided to replace the exhaust manifolds due to excessive amounts of rust over 30 years. I soked the risers in muriatic acid for 2 days and it cleaned them up like new. I replaced the breather with a K&N marine rated breather and high flow filter. It is in later pictures so don't panic it is correct just not in these pictures. I also replaced the impeller housing with a new one just to be safe. I replaced all hosees and any wires that I felt needed to be replaced. This took me 6 weekends insted of 2 weekends.     |
Posted By: Wisky Badger
Date Posted: April-20-2017 at 4:26pm
| Is that an air filter or a flame arrestor on the top of that engine? Correct me if I am wrong but I think you need to run a coast guard approved flame arrestor. The last time I checked there is not a lot of dust on a lake. |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-20-2017 at 4:30pm
As stated above I got a USCG aproved K&N marine rated high flow filter and breather. It cost $125 on Summit Racing. I like the way the triditional breather looks rather than the little tiny thing that was on it. All of it is marine rated by K&N. 
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Posted By: bwinn
Date Posted: April-20-2017 at 4:42pm
| U s c g approved? |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-20-2017 at 4:55pm
We started doing the fiberglass and stringers around the first week of December. That process took 2 months working nights and weekends. I will say keep everything you cut out in as close to original as you can get it. Measure 3 and 4 times trace what you can and order extra material. We ordered marine grade wood and used your standard West System fiberglass to put it all back in. Use a 2 part close cell fome to fill your cavities. I went with a 1/2 inch floor.             |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-20-2017 at 4:59pm
| Yes USCG aprover marine rated K&N high flow breather body and filter. I spent a week researching them they are top of the line. |
Posted By: bwinn
Date Posted: April-20-2017 at 5:08pm
| Sounds like you are in good shape! Stringer job looks top notch as well. Love the reverse gel boats, great job saving her!!! |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-20-2017 at 10:06pm
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Floor done new carpet and putting it all back together. I went with the dripless shaft seal. To get the coupler off I used the scocket and threaded rod trick. I aligned the motor and transmission up with a .002 feeler gauge. I replaced the fuel line and all the hoses. I also ran the fuel pump overflow line back into the gas tank insted of the carburetor. I rough set the timming by going full compression on the #1 cylinder set the distribitor to that position and snugged it down. I followed the firing order on the motor tag and set all my spark plug wires and plugs. I also replaced all spark plug wires. I replaced the horns and stearing cable last year. If you look I double clamped all conections that were from the outside or below the water line. I replaced anything I saw that was 30 years old just because I role that way. If you look I put the gas tank supports on backwards. Insted of pulling them and drilling new holes in my stringers where it could cause rot I welded hinges onto my tank brackets. I can take the front 2 bolts loose and they flip up and the gas tank will slid out without loosing the back bolts. It was much quicker for me to do that than take everything loose and re-mount the tank supports. I also plumed in a inlet where I can hook a hose pipe to the water line when running it out of the warter.                   |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-20-2017 at 11:13pm
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Next is cosmetic stuff. My dash panel was shot. I wanted to move my radio to the glove box but I couldn't find a dash panel for my year (1987) with out the radio in the dash. So I decided to make a dash panel. Went to lowes got some luan. I figured I would cut out a panel and varnish it and pop it in. Well that didn't work the luan kept breaking. So I cut a piece out fiberglassed it once cut it to size fitted it and fiber glassed it 2 more times. It is strong as an ox now ! I ligned up all my holes and used the correct size drill bit to drill all my light holes, switch holes, horn hole I cut with the jig saw. I also added a Kill switch due to having 2 teenage boys driving it. A just incase factor. Now mounting the radio in the glove box. The glove box was shot so I cut the side out of it cut plastic pices to match the hole for the radio and then some. I super glued them in and then fiberglassed thoes pices into the glove box. Its not perfect but to buy the glovebox with the radio spot would cost $200 this cost me nothing because I had plastic and leftover fiberglass. My battery box cover was shot so I took some leftover fiberglass and coated it and made it as good as new. I also run 2 batteries. The reason is it just gives me peice of mind when the kids take it out on the lake. Teenagers will run everything on the boat and not care about the batteries. With two of them I feel better that they wont be stranded on the lake. I also installed a cut off switch where when we pull it out after the weekend I can sut the batteries off and not worry about them draining dead during the week. We have a lake house on Lake Warteree in SC we never leave it in the water during the week unless we are there. We have a public boat ramp about 1/4 mile from our house so for peice of mind I put it in and take it out every weekend. I paid $1000 to have a custom made cover for it that way we can cover it when it is in the yard at the lake during the week. It stays up at the lake from first of May to end of Sept. I eventually want to build a garage for it but that will have to wait too busy skiing and wake boarding !                   |
Posted By: MechGaT
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 12:13am
Looking good.  Can't wait to see the finished product and shots of it in use.------------- '92 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Kristof
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 8:25am
Nice job there!  ------------- - Gun control means: using BOTH hands! - Money doesn't make one happy, but when it rains cats and dogs, it's still better to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle... |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 9:27am
Kind of curious why you did this. Must have had to put a new fitting into the tank to do it.. Looks like the K&N has no fitting for that line to attach to Seems to me it defeats the purpose of those lines |
lharley wrote:Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 9:54am
| The return line is only incase the diaphragm in the fuel pump ruptures it pushes the gas into the carb insted of dumping it in the bottom of the boat. The K&N filter system I went with doesn't have the port to connect this line to. I could have drilled a hole in the bottom of the housing and conected a fitting to it and did it that way. I decided that why not just run it back to the tank. I used 1/4 inch tube ran it along side my fuel line, zip tied it to that. When I got to the tank I used a T-fitting and attached it to the fuel tank vent line. So if the diaphragm ruptures it will just push that extra fuel back into the tank. To me it just looked cleaner and I like to over engineer things. Thanks for the question ! |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 11:05am
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Well you'd think that the people who designed these fuel systems would have done that instead of giving you a visual indication that your diaphragm is leaking with the clear hose that dumps any leakage into the carburetor per those pesky guys at the USCG who make the rules The newer Holleys even went so far as to put a fitting right on the carburetor so you don't have to hook that hose to the flame arrestor. Here's a picture  The fitting with the black rubber cap right above the transfer tube is the fitting I really wouldn't say you over engineered it |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 11:08am
| I still used clear tubing so I can visually inspect it coming out of the fuel pump. It just goes back to the fuel tank vent line insted of to the breather. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 11:14am
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-and-rubber-fuel-tubing/=17akltz" rel="nofollow - Hopefully you did use a fuel rated tubing ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 12:25pm
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It dumped the extra fuel into the carb so the side benefit is that it would start to run rough and you'd open the motorbox to see what was going on. Now instead you could run for an hour easy filling the crankcase full of gas as it pushes past the top seal in the pump..... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 12:34pm
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A little research goes a long way. Where do you think that 5/8" hose connection came from for the PCV???? K&N makes vent hose adapters from 1/4" to 3/4" for filter assemblies 2.75" high to 6" high. They even specifically say that trimming may be needed to adapt to most all of their filter assemblies and marine arresters. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 1:11pm
Excellent point +1! One day I checked the oil on my 1954 4 cylinder and immediately noticed the oil seemed thin. Yup, ruptured fuel pump diaphragm. Back then, they didn't have the insight to add the vent off the pump and route gas back to the carb incase of a rupture. Good that I caught it and didn't do any damage to the engine. Lee, I suggest removing the line to the tank and route it to the carb like it's supposed to be. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 1:14pm
| I did get one of the 1/4 inch K&N hose fiffings. I didnt like the way it looked and you would have had to run it through you filter. I dodn't want to do that so I went with the cleaner alternative and direxted it back into the fuel tank vent line. For me I wanted the clean look and I didn't want the fuel pump to dump fuel into my carb if I had a problem. I think what I have is a good sulution. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 1:18pm
Please read Gary's comment again.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 1:27pm
Your line running through the bilge then tapping into your hopefully USCG approved vent line isn't USCG approved if it's a piece of clear tubing. The short little piece is OK with them since it is short, can't hold much fuel and it dumps into the carb so like Gary said it makes the engine run lousy or quit before you have bigger issues. What's the Burger King slogan "Have it your way" Let's hope you're not char broiled one day because of it. 
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Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 4:09pm
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So the outlet pressure on the mechanical fuel pump should be between 4 and 10 PSI. A leak in the diaphragm in a mechanical fuel pump will cause a loss of fuel pressure and starve the carburetor of fuel. This may cause the engine to run lean, misfire, hesitate or stall. If the pump fails entirely, no fuel will be delivered to the carburetor and the engine will not start or run. Any of these will cause you to check under the dog house. So the point of the returne line is when the fuel pump fails it keeps the fuel from spilling into the bottom of the boat. So if the the fuel pump fails your boat will start to act up or shut off. As stated I am not a boat mechanic but I have been around engines and motors my whole life. So please explane to me how a failed fuel pump can keep pumping fuel into the carb or any other part of the engine "filling the crankcase full of gas as it pushes past the top seal in the pump....." If gas pushes past the top seal in the fuel pump it will just be returned to the fuel tank. If you are getting gas in your crank case it is too much pressure or a bad float in the carb it would not be a failed fuel pump. Failed fuel pump = zero or very little pressure. 
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Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 4:56pm
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Yeah what he said ya goons!! I have found that pumping too hard can break the diaphragm however Reverse Gel and Blue, that is a rockin cool boat, nice work!! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 4:59pm
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The assertion is that because your fuel pump now has gas on the upside of the diaphragm that that gasoline will flood the top part of the fuel pump and there will be nothing to prevent it from following the arm that enters through the timing cover and follows the eccentric. The theory seems to hold water with me giving it a quick thought. You would eventually notice it is failing from being lean (although that's a much worse failure mode than being rich) but I am not sure that only a small leak will show a loss in fuel pressure. I actually have a similar setup as yours on my boat, because my fuel pump is electric and located below the gas tank and I didn't want run it all the way up to the carb... but I am a rebel - and my fuel pump is not bolted to the timing cover. Now that I am thinking about it I wonder if I ran it to the carb I would get more warning when my electric pumps are about to die and leave me stranded ( they never last more than 2 years)... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 5:08pm
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Lee In your mind there's no problem here and I really don't see any sense in discussing this with someone who figures he's smarter than the people who make the regulations and the people who manufacture the stuff to meet those regs.. |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 5:10pm
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Joe, you are correct if the pump fails or starts to fail you notice a drop in performance or it stops all together. At that point you trouble shoot. When you narrow it down to the fuel pump you replace check and change the oil and hit the lake the next weekend. Quinner, As for pumping I have never had a diaphragm break just bruised a few. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 5:18pm
Ken Correct, those USCG rules are just made up by idiots who really just want to make things difficult and aren't even thinking about safety!  Lee, you are forgetting an important aspect of a mechanical fuel pump. That it's capable of pumping way more fuel than is needed by the engine so, even with a seal or diaphragm problem, the carb is getting plenty of gas. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 5:20pm
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I dunno - if it starts to fail and is both running lean (hot) and with thinned out oil from the fuel in the oil one mistimed barefoot run could be your last on that motor. Particularly if the guy familiar with the boat is behind it and not driving it. Not super likely of course but a bummer for sure. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Watauga
Date Posted: April-21-2017 at 5:38pm
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Lee, I appreciate your hard work and long hours you invested in the old gal, you should be able to enjoy her many more days. Congratulations! A couple of questions. It looks like you partially removed the primary stringers, and did not disturb the airbox. If that is true, how did you join the remaining existing stringers with the new? It also appears that when you removed the primaries and secondairies that you left some of the existing stringer fiberglass lamination intact. Did you install the new primaries and secondaries against the remaining vertical fiberglass or did you actually remove it before bedding the new stringers to the hull? What was you process? If you left some of the old fiberglass how did you achieve adhesion? ------------- http://goo.gl/t8gAkI" rel="nofollow - 1980 Rebuild http://goo.gl/TFsgCy" rel="nofollow - Diary Signpainter, Disaster Responder, Longline Barefooter |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-24-2017 at 9:02pm
| Watauga, i am going to answer all your questions. Just haveing a busy week. |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-24-2017 at 11:24pm
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Watauga, Here we go I will go through all your questions and hope I answer the best I can. I am sure that the "experts" on this site will find fault in or a better way to do it. I am not a boat mechaninc but I am very good at what I do. I am a carpenter a machinist and a decent mechanic. "It looks like you partially removed the primary stringers, and did not disturb the airbox. If that is true, how did you join the remaining existing stringers with the new?" I removed all the primary stringers up to the first bulkhead where they were solid after that. I joind them with biscuits, epoxy and fiberglassed the *************** out of them. "It also appears that when you removed the primaries and secondairies that you left some of the existing stringer fiberglass lamination intact. Did you install the new primaries and secondaries against the remaining vertical fiberglass or did you actually remove it before bedding the new stringers to the hull?" We used the existing stringer fiberglass to set the new stringers to get the right width, hight and just for stability when setting the new ones. We then used epoxy to set them in place and we cut the old material out and fiberglass out and replaced it with new fiberglass. We did not use any of the old fiberglass to bond to we just used it as a templet and a base set to work off of. As stated I am sure there are other ways to do it and I am sure you will hear about it. This was my way hope this works and please ask if you have any more questions. |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-29-2017 at 11:50pm
Just got the boat from the shop and have it at the house now. Got it running like a top and it is looking good. All I need to do is put the drivers chair in. We are taking it to the lake house next weekend for the summer. Can't wait to get pulled !!                  |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: April-30-2017 at 12:01am
| The wake tower is a Big Air $550 off their web site. The top I made myself. I had some 1" steal tubing I bent it with my bender welded some bracing in it and made the front supports out of 1/2" tube. I put a 15 degree down slope in it. Painted it black ordered the Sunbrella fabric off Amazon along with the grommet kit. Had the wife sew it up and tied it into the frame with 550 cord. The whole thing cost me $200. It has saved many hours of not getting sun burned on the lake. It is the best thing I could have done to the boat if I am going to be pulling teenage kids all day. Love it best $200 I have eves spent. |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: May-08-2017 at 1:12pm
Ok after lots of thinking and research I decided to take the advise of a few people and run my gas return line back into my carb insted of the vent line on the gase takn. I plugged the tee that I put on the vent line. I didnt want the line exposed and I didnt want to have to modify my K&N flame arrester fliter. So I got a 1/4" bulk head and drilled a 3/8" hole under the housing and ran it up that way. Still gives it that clean look and serves the purpose of running the gas line in to the carb. Lets hear what you think.       |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: May-08-2017 at 1:20pm
Got her back on the lake this weekend. She ran smooth only one tiny oil leak on one of the valve cover gaskets. The rubber gaskets I got from Summit Racing for $39 were leaking. I went to Auto Zone got 2 cork gaskest for $16 and it sealed it right up. Ran it all day Saturday and Sunday no Issues. Re-set the speedometers with my GPS they were only about 2 MPH off. It felt tight and ran great.        |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-08-2017 at 4:36pm
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Well since I was the one who originally brought it up I guess I can be the first one to say "Good job, I like it" It keeps the fuel tank vent line configured the way it's supposed to be too. Glad you did some research about it. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-08-2017 at 6:19pm
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Lee Nothing urgent but do you think sometime you could take a picture looking straight down at your distributor with the cap and rotor removed so the weights and springs are clearly visible? If you could add it to this thread or PM me, either would be fine Thanks |
Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: May-08-2017 at 10:47pm
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Keno, Here is the distributor I used. PerTronix Flame-Thrower Plug and Play Marine Distributors with Ignitor II® Module D231800 I just had to swap out the gears to the RR gear. |
Posted By: fanofccfan
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 12:31am
| Good looking boat and clean work. Looks great. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-09-2017 at 8:08am
Got it, For some reason I was thinking you had an Ignitor 3 setup that I'm not familiar with.. I'm familiar with what you have and like them a lot. Many trouble free years on those modules and that same distributor despite what some people on here think. Notice that I didn't even mention your name Pete, I just said "some people"
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Posted By: DCIndustries
Date Posted: May-10-2017 at 6:38pm
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Nice Work! I've been fixing up my 87 for about 3 years now. Working in a machine shop have you ever considered cutting the dash panels out of .090 aluminum? I had it cut on a cnc router to fit my stereo and converted rocker switches. Painted to match. Came out great. I can get you cad files to get ya started if your interested.  
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Posted By: JOE. R
Date Posted: May-12-2017 at 9:29am
| Nice job. I recently bought a 87 Ski also. Thanks for sharing. |
Posted By: n7narcosis
Date Posted: May-12-2017 at 1:06pm
@DCIndustries  ------------- 1989 Correct Craft Martinique CB --- 351W |
Posted By: Blamey
Date Posted: May-12-2017 at 1:59pm
Is that Drivers seat a complete rebuild or is that a transplant from somewhere else? I'd like to see more pics of your boat. I really like the look of the updated vinyl. EDIT: Never mind I found your boat project post. Nice work. Still interested in how you did that drivers seat. ------------- 96 Super Sport Previously: 95 Sport Nautique, 1980 Ski Supreme |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: May-12-2017 at 2:11pm
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That drivers seat looks to be a factory seat being used in the current model year CC's ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: DCIndustries
Date Posted: May-12-2017 at 3:43pm
It's the current G Series seat. I managed to scrape together parts here and there, cut and stitched vinyl to match the rest of the boat. Haven't been able finish the custom driver's throttle panel or rear subcoamings so I haven't updated my post yet.  
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Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: May-24-2017 at 12:27pm
Great way to end a weekend !
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Posted By: lharley
Date Posted: May-24-2017 at 12:47pm
| We ran her all weekend this past weekend and besides a little tuning on the carb and setting the tranny adjustment it ran great. She was shifting into gear a little soon causing a jerking. So I adjusted the throttle and tranny cables to allow it to shift into gear at 750 RPM and then there is just a tiny amount of slack before you give it throttle. It took maybe 30 min to get it right. Everything else seems solid. |
Posted By: Timr71
Date Posted: May-24-2017 at 4:41pm
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I had to make similar adjustment when I rebuilt my Morse 2 control connected with new throttle and shift cables. The boat looks great! You should really enjoy it. |
Posted By: angryginger
Date Posted: October-09-2019 at 6:19pm
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Old thread but quick question if your still around.. did you leave it on the trailer for your stringer rebuild or take it off? If day what did you put it on how did you support it ? ------------- sam nielsen |