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Glass Layup Schedule on '82 2001?

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40923
Printed Date: March-29-2024 at 8:36am


Topic: Glass Layup Schedule on '82 2001?
Posted By: Nautique Newby
Subject: Glass Layup Schedule on '82 2001?
Date Posted: April-23-2017 at 10:57pm
I've been perusing this forum for a few months now trying to glean enough information to successfully redo the stringers and floor in my '82 2001. I got it last year and limped through the summer with it knowing I had a major project on tap for the off season. Unfortunately I'm starting very late ( too many other projects at home got in the way) so I'm hoping I can get the boat back in the water the last half of the summer and into the fall.

Since I've never done fiberglass before I'm really green on the subject. After studying this site for a while I feel like I'm a little better informed. However the biggest question mark right now is the glass layup schedule. I've seen various methods on here from different members and have come up with the one below. I plan on getting my supplies from US Composites since they have been widely used on here with success. Given that they no longer have the epoxy mat I've adjusted my stringer schedule to the following;
- wrap all wood in 1 layer of 10 oz glass after priming with thinned epoxy
- 1 layer of 2" cloth tape at joint to the hull,
-1 layer of 4" cloth tape,
- 1 layer of 8" cloth tape
- 2 layers of woven 10 oz glass on all stringers then
    -1 layer of 1708 glass on secondary stringers
    - 2 layers of 1708 on main stringers

I'd like to get some feedback on this schedule from the experts on here that actually know what they're doing. Too many layer? Not enough layers? Wrong glass?
I'm using LVL for the main stringers and clear SYP for the secondaries (I cannot get my hands on douglas fir)

It's been said repeatedly on here but those of us who are very new to boat repair really appreciate all the people who have taken the time to post their knowledge for the rest of us.

I'll post pics as I go for those that are interested.

Thanks again for any help!

Allen

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I hope I don't screw this up!



Replies:
Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: May-01-2017 at 3:52pm
I decided to go with two layers of biax tape from stringer to hull and two layers of 10 oz over the top on the secondaries and a layer of 10 oz and 1708 over the mains.

I'm waiting on the cloth and epoxy now. Hopefully delivered this week.

So far I've taken out the secondary stringers and cut the new ones. All are coped to less than 1/16" max of the hull. Most places are dead on. The old stringers were in such bad shape that 80% of them were vacuumed out with shop vac. Essentially dirt. So no pattern to make the new ones. I'm going to glue the pieces together and then cut the top down to floor level, I still have some work to do where the stringers intersect at the transom.

I also decided to put solid wood between the secondary member pieces (where the 1" wide foam was located) to help strengthen this area. Looks like the weakest point on the mains is where the weep hole is located on the bottom and the top is notched for motor mount bolt access..

Secondaries are C grade SYP (no knots and straight) since I can't get douglas fir. The extra piece I added is standard SYP. All of them will be laminated together and coated in 10 oz glass before bedding in the boat.

Mains will be LVL.

]


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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-01-2017 at 4:12pm
Allen,
Yes, do post pictures. I'm sure all would be interested. I feel your plan is a good one but, I'd add a CPES (penetrating epoxy) treatment to all the wood. I see that Jamestown now has a penetrating epoxy in their Total Boat lineup. Worth a try since I've heard nothing but good about Total Boat products.


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: May-01-2017 at 6:39pm
Yes, I planned on "priming" all the wood with epoxy prior to gluing or wrapping with glass. I had also planned on using the thinned 635 epoxy (w/ acetone) for this and then using straight 635 for gluing the secondaries together before covering with glass and installing in the boat. I figured it would be easier to cover the laminated piece with glass rather than the individual pieces before lamination. Do you recommend the Jamestown product over the thinned 635?

BTW - I found that the 40 grit flap disc on a grinder makes very quick work of taking the old stringer fiberglass down to the hull. In fact it was so quick I had to be careful so as not to take off too much and I had to stop every couple of minutes to vacuum up the pile of dust.

.


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-23-2017 at 4:17pm
I've gotten 3 of the 4 stringers glued in (starboard main left to cut out). I still have to glass everything in on port side before cutting out the last stringer.. Before I do that though I wanted to ask about using epoxy filled pockets for the engine cradle bolts. I've seen others mention oversizing the hole in the starboard stringer for the steering cable support, filling with epoxy and then drilling the correct size hole so the wood in the hole is not exposed to water. Has anyone done this with the lag bolts for the engine cradle? Both the bolts in the side of the stringer and the top.
I'm using LVL as main stringers so lag bolting into the top is not going to be as strong as solid wood anyway. Which got me to thinking about this method. Seems I could accomplish better waterproofing the stringer and increasing strength at teh bolted connection. I'm not sure what the shear and tension strengths are for US Composites 621 epoxy but you would think it would be plenty. I can also go with a true structural epoxy that will absolutely be strong enough.

Any thoughts?

I'll try to post pics of my progress so far.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-23-2017 at 4:21pm
You have a cradle... why lag from the top at all? I'd through bolt from the side


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-23-2017 at 4:25pm
I"m just going by what I took out. It had six lag bolts on each side... 3 in the top and 3 on the side. I assumed it came from the factory like that.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-23-2017 at 4:46pm
It did. That doesn't mean it's the best way. Especially considering your choice of stringer material.


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-23-2017 at 4:58pm
Understood. Any thoughts on the epoxy pocket for the side bolts?

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-23-2017 at 5:16pm
Originally posted by Nautique Newby Nautique Newby wrote:

Understood. Any thoughts on the epoxy pocket for the side bolts?

You will be through bolting (no lags) so I wouldn't worry about the epoxy but, I would CPES the holes just like you did with the other surfaces of the LVL.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: June-23-2017 at 7:06pm
Pouring some CPES down the holes should make them pretty rot resistant.

It doesn't have to last forever, it just has to last until you quit skiing!


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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: June-24-2017 at 11:17am
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

It doesn't have to last forever, it just has to last until you quit skiing!


Bite your tongue Man. I for one plan am planning on skiing forever.

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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"


Posted By: fgroce
Date Posted: June-24-2017 at 9:51pm
Same here, plan on skiing forever like Banana George.


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FGroce
88 Ski Nautique
For 28 years
Now 2002 Ski Nautique


Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: June-25-2017 at 2:07pm
I went overboard   used 1808 and 2 layers on main stringers with 4 where engine sits.   outside stringers got 2.
I used coosa board.
Side bolted the engine cradle.   However I found that the cradle moved so I had to lag it from the top. put them closer to the mounts.

If I did it again I would have filled the gap using the cradle as a form.   


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-25-2017 at 10:29pm
Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:

"I went overboard   used 1808 and 2 layers on main stringers with 4 where engine sits outside stringers got 2."

If I did it again I would have filled the gap using the cradle as a form.   


You used 2 layers of 1808 on the mains and 4 layers of 1808 at the engine?
Outside stringers got two layers of what?

Are you saying you had a gap between the side of the stringer and vertical leg of the cradle?

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: June-26-2017 at 2:28pm
I used 1808 for everything.   I didn't know it was 1808 until later. thought it was 1708.   

Gap was at the top of the cradle, I shaped the tops of the stringers to allow the cloth to wrap over.   As stated I would do it slightly different if I ever do another one.   

I used 25 gallons of resin and way more cloth than needed.   No data out there for using coosa board instead of doug fir so I went over kill.   If done again I would do 2 layers on the mains and one on the secondary. I would not have glassed both sides of the deck with 1708 either.   would have sealed the bottom and glassed the top.   

I added some weight to it instead of making it lighter.   Sure is strong though.   


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 11:20am
I took some pics to update the stringer work. I've got both secondaries and one main glued and filleted in the boat. I'm hoping to glass the port side in this weekend. I hope to do it all at once to get the max bond rather than one layer, cure, next layer, cure, etc.


Three of the four pieces of wood blocking on the transom for the swim deck have been cut out. The fourth will be cut out when the last stringer is removed. The blocking around the exhaust tips seems to be pretty solid. I looks like the factory (or somebody) used plumbers putty around the tip flange to seal it. It seems to have worked. Is that what you use when you put them back in?

I will say the best tool so far has been the power hand planer (as mentioned in the Stringer Tips thread). Since shaping the stringer to fit in the boat is more sculpting than cutting it has been a HUGE time saver. I can usually get a stringer done in less than a day and that's with 2 dozen trips in and out of the boat with it.


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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 11:28am
I did have an issue pop up when I was grinding out the bilge to remove the paint. I know the motor and shaft had an alignment issue last summer (first season with the boat). So I was afraid of what I might find. When the dust settled over the area around the strut bolts I noticed a fair amount of cracking showing up in the fiberglass. It's the same pattern on both sides of the bilge (just one side shows in the pic).


The gel coat on the bottom has a couple of small cracks at each corner.


I've looked through this forum for tips on repairing the top side and all I've found so far is grinding down a little and laying in a couple layers of glass. I guess it's a bit arbitrary to ask how far down I need to grind as all repairs are different. Can anyone shed some insight on this?

What about the bottom side? Does the gel coat need to be repair at this point?





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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 11:47am
Wonder if this is common
Mine had an interior patch over the shaft log. No stress cracks on outside though. The patch would have been done at SE Correct Craft and likely it was under warranty or they beefed it up because it was know issue.   

Anyhow I looked at my photos and looks like I put one extra layer over the strut area when I did the job.   

For you I would grind it down about 3/16 over the strut and out to edge of cracking and lay some 1708 in there and then lay a whole piece between the stringers over this area. Believe that should be more than enough.    


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 12:09pm
The cracking above was most likely caused by the alignment issue. The shaft does not appear to be bent to the eye when rolling on flat surface. But I have not put a dial on it. The strut also does not appear to be bent and the cutlass bearings appear to be in good shape (nice and tight) and are not unevenly worn. However the brass in the stuffing box is trashed. The hole is warn to oblong. Obviously this is where the shaft was rubbing. The output shaft on the trans turns smooth and does not have any lateral play.



As you can see in the photo the strut is not aligned with the shaft log. The natural position is as shown... offset to starboard. So assuming the shaft is indeed still straight, the strut will have to be repositioned.


I apologize for the crappy close-up pics.



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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 12:13pm
Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:

Wonder if this is common
Mine had an interior patch over the shaft log. No stress cracks on outside though. The patch would have been done at SE Correct Craft and likely it was under warranty or they beefed it up because it was know issue.   
    


Mine also has a patch around the shaft log as well as the pylon support sleeve. Both look like the same repair and both looked like the same repairs others on this forum have shared. So I assume (hope) it was done by Correct Craft.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 12:25pm
Allen,
The stringer job is looking great. Keep that momentum going!! I'd guess that at one time the strut took a hit that damaged the glass. It may not have bent the strut but was enough to fracture the glass. I agree with grinding out some glass in the bilge and laying down some more. I wouldn't worry about the gel.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 12:32pm
The gray gel around the log and pylon base are not necessarily repairs... that is the way cc built the boats in the 70's (presumably log holes and pylon receptacles were cut/placed after the bilge gel was shot.


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 12:43pm
Forgot to upload the pic of the stuffing box. Obviously this has to be replaced. So the question is go back with a standards drip version or dripless. I've seen pros and cons for both. Are all the dripless versions the same? Pretty big price difference.



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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 12:54pm
Originally posted by Nautique Newby Nautique Newby wrote:

   Obviously this has to be replaced. So the question is go back with a standards drip version or dripless. I've seen pros and cons for both.

Allen,
It worked for 35 years so why spend the $$ on a "dripless"? Put some good Goxtex packing in it and you'll be fine.

BTW, I've got one that has worked great for 40 years, one for 53 years and then another one for 63 years!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 2:01pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

The gray gel around the log and pylon base are not necessarily repairs... that is the way cc built the boats in the 70's (presumably log holes and pylon receptacles were cut/placed after the bilge gel was shot.


Those two areas had a different bilge coating slathered on the hull so I assumed it was a repair at some point. however I did not see any signs of damage underneath or evidence of gel coat repair. Only thing is one of the fins is bent over a little in front of the pylon mount..

Well now that I read your post again I understand what your're saying. Just cause the bilge coating is different doesn't mean it's a repair.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 4:08pm
In my case it appears reinforcement was added when the boat was in for repairs of the rear where the lifting ring tore out.   SE Correct Craft made what turned out to be a horrible repair, words cant describe what I had to do to fix it properly.   

anyhow they laid up epoxy glass over the shaft log for some unknown reason.   It was pretty rough so I smoothed it out and finished it off properly when I did the stringer job.   

All of those who have posted photos of their old stringers had way more of a template than I did. In my case there was NO wood left, it had been eaten by carpenter ants and only about 10% was left. I had a terrible time trying to make a reasonable template and about 1/3 was a basic guess. In retrospect my whole project should have been to salvage what few parts I could have and got another boat to do.   


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 4:15pm
On a separate note. Has anyone added tie down hooks to the transom under the swim deck? Lag bolting through the fiberglass and into the wood blocking. I hate to add more hole below the water level but I'd like to secure the boat on the trailer a little better. the boat would shift on the bunks whenever it went over a decent size bump last year and I hate to solely rely on the guide poles to keep the boat on the trailer.

Only other option is to strap it down over the gunnels.

BTW - I"m adding a prop guard member to the back of the trailer so I could use transom straps if I had a place to attach on the boat.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 4:29pm
Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:



All of those who have posted photos of their old stringers had way more of a template than I did. In my case there was NO wood left, it had been eaten by carpenter ants and only about 10% was left. I had a terrible time trying to make a reasonable template and about 1/3 was a basic guess. In retrospect my whole project should have been to salvage what few parts I could have and got another boat to do.   


So far the biggest piece of wood I've taken out of the old stringers was 1 very rough looking 4' piece of the secondary. All the rest has been vacuumed out. Nothing but soft wood and dirt. I should have put it in my garden and gotten some use out of it. The fiberglass was all of the structure.
I did use the main stringer fiberglass to help shape the top of the new main. But since I was comparing finished surface to wood surface (no glass) I had to interpolate. I'll find out how well I did or didn't do when I get the engine back in.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Wisky Badger
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 4:49pm
Great progress, keep the pictures coming.

Regarding the transom tie downs. I am in about same steps as you on my 81 right now and was also wondering about adding transom tie downs.   I was thinking about adding some above the waterline by glassing in some new wood to the interior of the transom above the swim platform mounts, but I don't think it will look very good. Do you think you can strap to the bottom of the swim platform if you use through hull bolts instead of lags or would this create to much stress on the swim platform brackets?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 5:05pm
Use the platform brackets as tie down points. It's done all the time. Remember, the bracket bolts and transom glass are shear loaded so no worries regarding integrity.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 5:09pm
Originally posted by Wisky Badger Wisky Badger wrote:

Great progress, keep the pictures coming.

Regarding the transom tie downs. I am in about same steps as you on my 81 right now and was also wondering about adding transom tie downs.   I was thinking about adding some above the waterline by glassing in some new wood to the interior of the transom above the swim platform mounts, but I don't think it will look very good. Do you think you can strap to the bottom of the swim platform if you use through hull bolts instead of lags or would this create to much stress on the swim platform brackets?


I'm glad to know I'm not the only poor sap to have his boat stuck in dry dock in the middle of ski season. I'm hoping to at least get it in the water before end of summer. Very long way to go though. I was looking back at this thread and was surprised to see it took me 2 1/2 months to get the 3 stringer glued in. Was really hoping to be further along by now.

I get more than a little jealous when I see someone on the way to the lake with their boat in tow.



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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 5:17pm
Wisky,
Please feel free to add some photos of your project to this thread. We might be able to share some valuable info given we're at the same stage and with boats only a year apart.



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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Wisky Badger
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 6:07pm
Hopefully I will have some more pictures added by the end of the long 4th of July weekend.   I plan to do a little work on the boat in the mornings but I will be taking my other boat out in the afternoons. I have made some good progress the last two weekends because the boating weather in Wisconsin has either been really windy or cold. The primaries and secondary stringers are completely glassed in and now I am working on the bulkhead between the primaries and the supports between the secondary and primaries. I am kind of at a stand still right now because I am waiting for more aerosol cabosil to arrive from US Composites.   


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 6:28pm
Did you use 1708 (or sim) on your stringers? I want to do one continuous layer of 1708 over both the primary and secondary but I"m concerned about getting it to lay down over all those curves on the main. Did you have to use small pieces around the "sculpted" area of the main?



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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 9:53pm
I was in an accident with my Nautique in tow a couple years ago. My transom straps broke allowing my boat to come forward on the trailer and nearly in the back window of our BMW X5.   The bunks were wet just out of the lake so little friction to help.
I strap from the rear of my trailer to the bottom of my ski platform.
Both Straps broke but the swim platform is fine, no damage visible at all.
The straps that snapped were not that strong, 4 or 600 pound rating.
The new ones I use are 1,500 pound rating and I beefed up the system by adding a chain from my trailer to the front boat eye on the bow. Now the boat would have to snap both 1,500 pound straps and then break the chain (5,000 pound) to move forward on the trailer.   These straps normally do nothing other than add comfort to you driving home from the lake.   When 5 deer jump out in front of your car they get put to hard use.............
The swim platform is certainly strong enough to hold the boat in place but make sure the rest of your attachment and straps are strong enough..
I think my boat came forward before the accident just from the wet bunks and all brakes locking up at once and I was on a downhill grade.. I had just fixed my trailer brakes and know they were at 100%.
Both boat tires skidded and the X5 anti lock system was kicked in. I was in a crash but by the time we hit I was less than 10 mph, I hit the brakes at 50MPH.

Very nice project, keep up the great work. Once repaired that boat can last you a lifetime.

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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: June-27-2017 at 11:31pm
Originally posted by Nautique Newby Nautique Newby wrote:

I get more than a little jealous when I see someone on the way to the lake with their boat in tow.


When you start out yes your always a boat short. But then you buy another and another and pretty soon your well on your way

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95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Wisky Badger
Date Posted: June-28-2017 at 12:37am
My process varied from yours a little bit. I removed all the stringers at once and then reinstalled the primaries and glassed them in completely before I installed the secondary stringers.   Now I am installing the supports and bulkheads.   

I did use 1708 to cap the stringers.   I also wanted to try to cap the stringers with one large piece but it won't layout nice around the molded pieces.   I had to cut some smaller pieces to install them around the difficult parts but I made sure to overlap them a few inches each.   I also added a thin strip of 1708 on the top of the molded pieces before I capped them to make sure I had good coverage in those areas.   

Here are some tricks that worked well for me:

Router a 1/4 inch round edge on the top of the stringers to create a nice radius for the 1708 to follow.   

Make a big table with a sheet of plywood and cover it in plastic.   Use the table to wet out the mat side of the 1708 and then install on the stringers and roll the other side with a roller covered in resin to ensure a full wet out. Then use a detail roller to get rid of all the air bubbles. It is a lot easier to wet out 1708 on a nice flat surface than on a vertical stringer wall.   

This is a diagram of my stringer layup

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/FinandFeather1/media/Stringer%20Detail_zpseswo8djb.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> [/IMG]

I had to borrow the glitter pens from my daughters art supplies.


Posted By: Timr71
Date Posted: June-28-2017 at 2:04pm
Looking good there guys.

NN - where in Alabama are you located? Where do you plan to go to the lake.

There's been a Nautique parked in a long driveway off of HWY 119 near my home and I've been eyeing it every time I've driven past. I have been tempted to stop, but you would have to drive into their driveway to look at the boat. It's not there now, so they either moved it inside or took it to the lake for the season.


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-28-2017 at 5:30pm
Originally posted by Timr71 Timr71 wrote:

Looking good there guys.

NN - where in Alabama are you located? Where do you plan to go to the lake.

There's been a Nautique parked in a long driveway off of HWY 119 near my home and I've been eyeing it every time I've driven past. I have been tempted to stop, but you would have to drive into their driveway to look at the boat. It's not there now, so they either moved it inside or took it to the lake for the season.


Chelsea. We went once to Lay Lake (closest one) to do the first test drive (bought it last spring) and then the rest on Logan Martin. Too many horror stories of submerged logs/stumps on Lay so I'll limit my time there once I get the boat back together.

Just curious what year boat is on 119?

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Timr71
Date Posted: June-28-2017 at 5:36pm
Originally posted by Nautique Newby Nautique Newby wrote:



Chelsea. We went once to Lay Lake (closest one) to do the first test drive (bought it last spring) and then the rest on Logan Martin. Too many horror stories of submerged logs/stumps on Lay so I'll limit my time there once I get the boat back together.

Just curious what year boat is on 119?


Model Year: I'm not sure...my best guess is early 90's. I haven't gotten close enough to get much of a look at it, and it's been under a cover.

I was on Lay lake once, many years ago, and I heard of it's reputation for being stumpy. We've been to visit a friend who has a place on Jordan. I have another friend who has a place on Logan Martin, but I've never been there yet.

I lucked into a dry stack spot at River North on Lake Martin, so we go there. We live in the Oak Mountain area. Very familiar with Chelsea from sports.


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-28-2017 at 5:36pm
Thanks for taking the time to do the sketch, Wisky. And pretty too Very informative.

I will certainly keep your tips in mind when I lay the glass. I like the idea of the table but I may only be able to do one side of glass on the table. Even though I'm in a basement it's pretty hot down here tight now so I don't want it setting up on me before I get it in the boat. I'll let you know how it turns out.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: June-28-2017 at 5:46pm
Originally posted by Timr71 Timr71 wrote:


I lucked into a dry stack spot at River North on Lake Martin, so we go there. We live in the Oak Mountain area. Very familiar with Chelsea from sports.


Lake Martin is the best for sure. But also very pricey!!   I spent many summers on that lake growing up since my grandparents had a cabin on the north end and my aunt and uncle had a place near Children's Harbor. It was right across the lake from the 4th fireworks. We used to go over in the boat and anchor right under them, along with a few hundred other boats.

My grandparents sold their place when I was in college (no income to buy it from them). and the other one sold for seven figures. Like I said... pricey!

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: July-10-2017 at 3:27pm
I got the starboard stringers glassed in over the 4th weekend. This past weekend I got the last main cut out, ground down the resin/glass on the hull to prep for the new stringer and cut the new stringer. I'm currently priming the new one before gluing it in (hopefully this weekend). I used Wisky's advice about the plywood for wetting the fabric (pic below). It worked out great. Thanks again for the tip Wisky.

I meant to take pics of the glassed stringers yesterday but I was exhausted and forgot to do it.

I also removed the strut from the hull. There was a little silicone around the bolts but nothing between the mounting plate and the hull. It dropped loose as soon as the last bolt was removed. Did CC normally bed the struts in sealant at the factory? I can see how the strut would be easily knocked askew with just the bolts holding the alignment.

I also put the shaft on a polished granite slab to check for deflection. I also checked the slab flatness with a machined straightedge that's within a few thousandths. Amazingly the shaft is straight (almost like I just found $400).

I'm also thinking about taking the fins off the hull. One of them is bent over so I wanted to straighten it.


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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: July-13-2017 at 8:49pm
I got the last stringer glued in last night, I hope to have the starboard side glassed in within a week. As you can see in the photo the post above is wrong, the port side stingers are glassed in, not starboard.. I still have some areas to "touch-up" on the glass.

Feels good to get that last one glued in. Will feel even better when all are glassed.




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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: fgroce
Date Posted: July-13-2017 at 9:05pm
I like it, One day I may have to do it to my Dad's boat, but I am in no big hurry. Keep up the good work, Hope you get it wet this summer..



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FGroce
88 Ski Nautique
For 28 years
Now 2002 Ski Nautique


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: July-14-2017 at 11:15am
Thanks fGroce.   It's a LOT of work to be sure!! Especially if most all the work is on the weekends. I've seen on here 200-400 man hours. For me it will certainly be on the upper end of that range.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: July-14-2017 at 11:18am
Doing a little planning ahead.... when I'm cutting the 3/4" flooring under the front seats, does the wood go all the way to the hull on each side of the boat or stop just short of touching the hull. The wood I took out was so rotted I couldn't tell where it stopped. I think it stopped short and some sort of wadding was placed between the end of wood and the hull.

Can anyone out there lend any insight?

Thanks

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: July-25-2017 at 4:14pm
Got the starboard side stringers glassed in over the weekend. Can't express how glad I am to have that done. 16 hrs over two days for each side takes a toll on the neck, back and legs. I learned some lessons from the port side so the second side turned out better than the first side, particularly on the secondaries. I tried to put down the 12' x 25" piece of 10 oz glass in one sheet on the first side. Not the way to go in my opinion. I worked with smaller sections on the second side and it went much better. I think that's evident in the photos. I went with 6" and 12" strips of 1708 glass from stringer to hull on both sets of stringers with two layers of 10 oz glass over that on the secondaries and two layers of 1708 on the mains.

On to the smaller sub-floor pieces along with some clean-up and touch-up on the stringers.

(Edited to upload images instead of linking to Photobucket)



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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: August-07-2017 at 6:57pm
Well, work on the boat has slowed down considerably over the past two weeks. My wife put her foot down that I wasn't at home enough (the boat will not fit in our garage) since this project has been an every weekend thing since early April.

So I've switched to concentrating on the trailer referb, (which can be brought to the house) and small items associated with the boat. I managed to complete refinishing the ski pylon. It was looking pretty bad from 35 years of use/weathering so I polished is up to mirror finish. Turned out pretty nice. Started with 220 grit sandpaper to take out some scratches and moved steadily up to wet 2500. Then polished with auto clear coat cutting/buffing paste.

I plan to get the new foam in the boat then hopefully glass the floor before putting the boat back on the trailer and storing it until next spring to finish it up for 2018 summer use. I've got another house project to finish before then.



BTW - What's the deal with the rotated pics? The uploaded file is oriented correctly. Anybody know how to fix this?

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: fgroce
Date Posted: August-07-2017 at 8:52pm
I like the pylon it looks good.

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FGroce
88 Ski Nautique
For 28 years
Now 2002 Ski Nautique


Posted By: MechGaT
Date Posted: August-08-2017 at 9:36am
Looking good! I know what you mean about working weekends. I haven't been able to every weekend, but that is my only chance since my boat is also not at my house.

I haven't seen an answer to your question about whether the plywood needs to to touch the wall. It shouldn't. It creates a stress point so keeping it off just a bit is best. Good luck.

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'92 Sport Nautique


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: August-11-2017 at 8:12pm
I'm ready to pour my flotation foam in the boat. Originally my plan was to do everything to repair/redo the structure and floor before putting it back on the trailer. However the instructions for using the 2 part polyurethane foam, say that 80 deg or above is optimal for max expansion. The boat is currently in a cool basement supported on shoring. The trailer is being refurb'd separately.   Since the basement garage is typically less than 80 deg, even in the summer, I think it best to put the boat back on the trailer and move it outside to foam. Also better ventilation for off-gassing.

As mentioned in this thread, I have all four stringers glassed in.

Question is, can the boat be lifted back onto the trailer in it's current state without risking distorting the hull or damaging work already done? To do this I would have to winch the bow up by the lifting eye, remove all but the two stern supports, roll the trailer under the boat, jack the trailer up to unload the two supports, remove the last two supports and lower the trailer. Boat would then only be supported on the trailer bunks.

Obviously all of this would be done without any foam and without any flooring installed. Is this asking for trouble? I realize the foam and floor are not structural but they do add rigidity to the hull.

Thanks,

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-11-2017 at 8:40pm
The foam and floor are structural on a 2001. I don't think I'd go through the trouble of moving the boat just to get temps up for foam. You have to be in the 60's-70's anyways right? The foam will be just fine. It doesn't outgas much, similar to the epoxy.

You're dead set on using foam right?


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: August-11-2017 at 8:48pm
Yes, I already have the foam and I want the floor and hull to be solid. I realize the issue with water getting back in there and not getting out. But I'll just have to be extra vigilant about keeping the boat covered and making sure the bilge is empty. I'm also considering snap in carpet instead of glue in so I can keep an eye on any damage to the floor.

Thanks for the help!

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: August-28-2017 at 2:30pm
I finally got the boat foamed this past weekend. Still have some of the liquid left so need to find some more places to foam. Thinking about applying to the top of the bow. Obviously it hasn't been trimmed to floor line yet. The funny thing was it's summer in the south and I had to use a heater to get the garage up to optimal temp.






Some hints to pass along;
WEAR A FULL BODY TYVEK SUIT. I had one on and still got some on my arms and on my face (don't know how it got there). Peeling it off you face is NOT fun. Especially with 2 day stubble. Wear eye protection too.

I worked with 1 quart (1 pint of each liquid) at a time and it seemed like a good amount. Easy to mix in the 45 seconds and manageable pours.

I used 6 buckets... one for each liquid to pour from the 5 gal pails so I'm not trying to get precise with the heavy buckets, 1 for each liquid to measure exact amounts and 2 for mixing. I discovered that if you mix a couple batches in one bucket then put aside and use the other one for the next two pours, the first bucket will have set up and it's a lot easier to get the dried foam out of it to use again. Peels out like the epoxy does.

Get lots of stir sticks. They don't come clean.

Cover the gel coat and dash of the boat with plastic. The foam sticks to everything it touches.

This one is probably rather obvious, since you have to wait 15-20 min before covering the poured foam, I started on one side of the boat and worked my way around to the other. By the time I got back to where I started it was well past the set-up time to fill in the gaps.

Now time to cut the foam to floor line and get the floor in.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: August-28-2017 at 2:35pm
I plan on using a thin layer of plywood under the glass top layer to make up the floor. I assume that the plywood should not go wall the way to the hull sides for the same reasons the thicker decking under the front seat areas doesn't. How much gap should be between the wood and the side of the hull?

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: MechGaT
Date Posted: August-29-2017 at 11:13am
Thanks for posting this. This is what I am planning to do this weekend. Post any lessons learned cutting it down as well.

For my floor I have tried to run the plywood close to the wall without touching. I get the impression the hard spot could lead to cracks, but as long as it doesn't touch it is fine. Just don't want stress concentration.

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'92 Sport Nautique


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: August-29-2017 at 11:43am
Make sure the floor boxes are secured in place with weights or sim. The foam does not rise quickly but it does exert some pressure even when it's not completely contained. My front box was secured to the bulkhead and the foam still made it rise slightly. I had to hold it down until the foam stopped expanding. I put weights in the front one and it worked well.

You have to work quick so plan your pours and have someone else help you time your mixing. The US Composite 2 lb foam really does start foaming at about 45-50 seconds from combining the two parts.   

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: August-29-2017 at 12:40pm
Originally posted by Nautique Newby Nautique Newby wrote:

I plan on using a thin layer of plywood under the glass top layer to make up the floor. I assume that the plywood should not go wall the way to the hull sides for the same reasons the thicker decking under the front seat areas doesn't. How much gap should be between the wood and the side of the hull?


As said above not touching is the right answer... but man I sure wouldn't put that wood anywhere you don't need it to screw into.   First you have to cut and shape the boards, cover them with cps, then get a good bond down to the foam and all you are doing is putting something extra in there to delaminate and rot.   I strongly recommend you go all composite here... should you ever have an issue in the future it will just be that much easier to do a spot repair in only the effected area and not have to remove the wood until you find something dry.   Some cheapo mat or biax to bulk up the floor thickness and some good resin is not free but I doubt the plywood will save you any cost if done right.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-29-2017 at 1:05pm
I agree with Joe. Sadly, the 2lb density foam is on the light side for structural (floor) support so the glass going over it will have to be thicker to compensate... but I definitely wouldn't put wood everywhere if I didn't have to.


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: August-29-2017 at 1:30pm
I debated the choice of wood for a while. It's not ideal obviously but I figured the extra support might be worth it.

If I were to just go with glass (no wood), would 1 layer of 10 oz followed by 2 layers of 1708 for the floor be sufficient. Or do I need more layers?

Regardless of wood or no wood there will be multiple players of glass on top. Do all layers "flash" up onto the hull or only the top one or two? All layers would significantly thicken the hull sides at the "flashed" area and didn't know if this was a bad idea. I haven't seen this covered in any other threads.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: September-19-2017 at 12:06pm
I never got a response on the questions above and have found limited info on forum searches, particularly on flashing onto the hull.

Based on the floor layup info I've found it looks like I need at least two layers of 1708 and two of 10 oz cloth. I'm thinking of the following order... 1708 over the foam (mat side down), 10 oz, 1708 (again, mat side down), 10 oz on top. BTW- I did NOT use any plywood over the foam except under the seats in the front. I have the typical wood outriggers off the secondary stringers like the factory setup.

I haven't found any info about flashing the layers onto the hull around the perimeter of the floor. I don't see why all 4 layers would need to go up the hull. I'm thinking just the top two. Does anyone have an opinion on this?

One more question... I trimmed the old floor on the starboard side within an inch of the hull. It was firmly attached to the hull so I did not cut it flush to the hull and used the leftover floor flange as a guide to cutting the foam for the new floor. The floor on the port side was not adhered to hull well at all. In fact I was able to easily peal it off the hull entirely. Is there any issue with leaving the flange on the starboard side? I was planning on just glassing over it.

Thanks,


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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Wisky Badger
Date Posted: September-20-2017 at 12:23am
I think if you flash/tab the floor to the hull with two layers of 1708 you will have enough strength.   

I personally would removing the old tabbing area off both sides of the hull.   You have done so much work so far and it will probably take less than an hour to get it removed.   You want to make sure that you get a really good seal and bond in this area so you don't get water in your brand new foam.

As far as your floor layup, your glassing schedule will probably work. I would recommend going heavy on the glass because you used 2lb foam and US Composites says that their 2lb foam is not structural.   I used 3 layers of 1708 on my floor with 4lb foam and that might have been a little over kill.

Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.




Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: November-14-2017 at 6:13pm
Welp, I have not worked on the boat much at all over the past 3 months. I did get the foam finished and the wood under the seats installed as well as the wood floor support strips on each side of the bilge installed. It's nearly ready for glassing in the floor.

However I've had to take a long break from the work due to some personal issues. As a result I've got a very important bullet point for the "Lessons Learned" stringer list... make sure your spouse completely understands how much time will be involved in this project and is 150% okay with it.

Mine did not, mostly because I underestimated how much time it would take, and I was trying to rush the boat into service this past summer by working on it most weekends for months straight. Big mistake!!!! My wife filed for divorce and nearly ruined the lives of 5 people along with my plans for family weekends on the lake. Luckily we have stepped back form the ledge and are on the road to reconciliation.

I'm not laying my personal dirty laundry out there to be melodramatic, but rather as a cautionary tale to others about to undertake this size project. Don't be a hard-headed idiot like I was and forget what's most important in life.

Obviously the boat was not the sole cause of my situation but it absolutely contributed.

Not sure when I will get back on it but I still have hopes it can be back on the water summer 2018. I'll continue my updates once I restart.

... and I thought my tag line just applied to the boat...

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: November-14-2017 at 10:16pm
Best of luck to you with the spouse reconciliation project. I agree with you that we need to keep a proper balance between spouse, family, boat, play, work, etc.

I'm glad to see that you are working toward staying together.

JQ

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Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited

Previous
2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow

Aqua skiing, ergo sum


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 8:06pm
Well, I"m happy to say that I've resolved my personal issues noted above but unfortunately did not come close to getting the boat back in the water by this summer. In fact I haven't worked on it in a year. I did get to work on the trailer this weekend and that refurb project is almost finished. New paint and no rust makes it look 100% better. I did find a good bit of pitted steel under the wood bunks when I removed them last year. I cleaned them out and filled in the worst places with puddle welds and the rest with bondo.
However I'm concerned about it happening again and considered putting some type of water proofing mastic or liquid between the paint on the rail and the wood bunk since this area will remain wet the longest. Has anyone ever done this? Not sure what product would be best.
Hoping to get back on the boat project soon.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: andrewmarani
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 9:29pm
Congrats on making it through the marriage crisis. Been there, didn't work out, started over a few years later and that has been awesome... Pretty much comes down to figuring out in what ways you are an idiot and need to grow up and fixing that.

On the trailer. I stripped mine down probably 10 years ago and found the same issue on the tops of the channels. After hammering out all of the rust, I primed and used rustoleum to protect everything and put it back together. 2 years ago I noticed rust and stripped the bunks off again, cleaned the tops of the channel down to steel and used bondo to make it smooth. reinstalled the bunks. Looks good so far. First time I used a double stick waterproof tape between the bunks and the channel, figured it would help seal out the water. Obviously didn't work and added 50% to the time required to clean stuff up for the second repair. Second time, I just painted everything well and put the bunks on directly over the paint.

Couple of suggestions. I used trex composit decking for my bunks, not wood, highly recommend that. I also installed a gradually tapering piece of trex under the bunk to curl the bunk to match the changing angle of the hull. I could tell from the marks on the bottom of the boat where the bunk hit, so I used a level and a bevel square and figured out the angle of the hull every two feet, then I cut the taper piece to match. It isn't a perfect fit, but it's way closer than the original bunks.

I used gray trex and thought about leaving off the carpet, but decided that the trex was too slippery, so I wrapped them in carpet after bolting the bunks down. I used the double stick tape under the carpet (on the tops of the bunk) and it has worked well there, carpet hasn't moved and the only wear spots in 10 years are where the bow lands as I power the boat up the trailer.

I used the same trex for the two vertical boards that hit the front of the boat to stop it's forward motion. I screwed stainless steel hose clamps to the boards (two on each), left the clamps loose until I put the boat on the tailer against the boards, then snugged them up.

While I had the trailer apart I replaced the wiring. I didn't want to scratch up the new trailer paint with those wire holding clips that slip over the edge of the channel, so in the inside corner of the channel, every two feet, I put a dab of rubber caulk and placed the wire in it, taped the wire down till the caulk set. 10 years later it's all still secure. Make sure you use shrink tube marine connectors and stainless steel screws at any grounding points to the trailer.

Seems like everyone tears up the last bit of wire between the boat and the truck, so I stopped the wire short inside the trailer tube and used a 4' tail with trailer connectors on either end to run the last few exposed feet, so I can replace it easily when I finally snag it on something.

And finally, the best license plate holder ever.

Edit:
http://www.socal-fishing-hunting.com/BOAT-TRAILER-LICENSE-PLATE-BRACKET-HINGED.html

I do not get how to do the hyper link thing.

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Builder


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 9:51pm
http://www.socal-fishing-hunting.com/BOAT-TRAILER-LICENSE-PLATE-BRACKET-HINGED.html" rel="nofollow - Licence plate bracket link for Andrew

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 10:21pm
Thanks Andrew for the kind words and lots of helpful suggestions. I like the idea of using composite bunks since it won’t absorb water like wood. Should help with the rust on the top of the rail too.   Maybe I’m thinking too much about protecting under the bunks. I’ve tripped down all the rusted and loose paint areas and primed with a high zinc Sherwin Williams marine grade primer (two coats) and three coats of SW oil based enamel. I do not want this thing rusting again!   I had the exact same concern on the wiring so I welded large fender washers in side the rails every 2’-3’ to rune the wire through. And yes I will use water proof connectors. I’m changing all the lights to LED and I added a prop guard to the back of the trailer.
Wonderful idea on the sacrificial pig tail on the front. I will do that as well.

I will also look into the trex idea.

Thanks again.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 11:57pm
Just FYI, Bondo is a moisture magnet.

Under bunks is not a good application for it.

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: October-25-2018 at 5:28pm
I should be getting back to work on the boat in a couple of weeks. First order of business is to install the floor.

I'm following the advice of others on here and added another layer of 1708 over the 2 lb foam. Therefore it will be bottom layer to top... 1708 (mat side down), 10 oz, 1708 (mat side down, 10 oz and finally 1708 (mat side up). I will tab the top two layers up onto the hull and down over the stringers.

Still working on the trailer. Painting is nearly finished. About to install the new leaf springs, bolts, etc. The old ones were rusted pretty badly. Before I bought it I think this boat sat outside uncovered. most of it's life.



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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: andrewmarani
Date Posted: October-25-2018 at 5:48pm
Maybe I just did a good job with the painting two years ago, but I pulled one of the bunks up and checked under it a couple of weeks ago. Paint on top of the bondo was pristine, no sign of bubbling, rust or the bondo popping loose.

The old trailer guides were rusting out at the bend to the trailer. Since I was fixing everything anyway, I replaced them. Using the old trailer guides as a template, I had new guides done up in stainless by a steel shop we work with.




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Builder


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: October-25-2018 at 8:06pm
That trailer looks great! I am in the process of adding a prop guard to the back of my trailer (old style didn't have one). I'll try to post a pic when I'm done.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: November-11-2018 at 1:49am
After 14 months I’m finally going to get back to the boat project   i will be putting in the floor this week. i sanded all of the carpet and glue residue off the side hull but could not get the white residue off. I assume its a bilge coat. I tried power sanding with very course sandpaper but it wont come off without really getting into the hull. I’m afraid to get too aggressive since the hull is pretty thin on the sides. Does anyone know what the white is and can it stay in place and glass over it? that stuff is bonded to the hull really well.



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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-11-2018 at 5:00pm
Allen,
14 months not working on the project! Don't feel bad since I believe it was around 14 years with my Atom laying dormmate! Glad to hear you're getting back on it..

The white sounds like the coating CC used on every surface inside the hull.. It's just a pigmented poly resin used for appearance. I wouldn't worry about removing it on the hull sides since you won't be attaching anything structural to it.


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54 Atom

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-11-2018 at 8:45pm
The floor is certainly structural on a 2001. I would absolutely grind the gel off the wall anywhere you plan to glass. 6-8” up should do it.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-12-2018 at 9:18am
Allen,
Tim is correct that the coating needs to be removed where you will be glassing in the sole to the hull sides.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: November-21-2018 at 12:09pm
I was finally able to finish installing the floor last night. Other than working under the bow, it was fairly easy. I just laid the cloth in place, pour epoxy and spread it around evenly. A lot better than the stringers where I was wetting the cloth on a table and then placing it over the stringers.
The work under the bow was the worst part of the whole project so far. Sanding and grinding under there produced a dust fog so bad I could hardly see (even with fans and shop vacs) and then trying to work the glass while laying down (sometimes in the wet glass) was NOT fun at all.

Glad to be through with that stage! Still have some touch-up and misc glassing to do here and there plus the fairing.

Next step is to re-assemble the trailer and get the boat back on it. Hopefully that will happen before Xmas.



Sorry for the rotated pic. I can't get it to upload correctly.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: February-01-2019 at 4:36pm
Another update... Finally after nearly 2 years I got the boat back on the trailer. Boat is now ready for bilge work and then carpet. Hopefully it won't be another 2 years to get that done

Only items left on the trailer are painting the winch post, prop guard, repairing the bow stop and making new guide posts.

I moved the boat back to it's permanent location last weekend. As you can see from the pics below, there was a lot of dust on the boat. So much so I trailed a large dust cloud for the entire 5 mile trip. It was much cleaner by the time I got there though.





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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: andrewmarani
Date Posted: February-01-2019 at 6:34pm
Very Nice!

Below is a sketch I sent out to a steel fabricator to have the stainless steel guide poles made up for my trailer. Sketch matches the original, rusted out guide poles.

The only adjustment I would make would be to change the 81 degree rake to 85 degrees. They slope back a touch more than I would like.

Andrew

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Builder


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: February-04-2019 at 12:49pm
Awesome! Thanks for the sketch. I may have to tweak it a little since I added some stabilizer bars near the guide attachments for the tail light bar but this will be a great starting point.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: andrewmarani
Date Posted: February-04-2019 at 1:21pm
What jack did you use on your trailer? Looks like you've got a new one from the photo. I've still got the original and it's showing it's age. I would like to replace it, but don't see many with as much vertical lift as the original.

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Builder


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-04-2019 at 1:38pm
Originally posted by andrewmarani andrewmarani wrote:

What jack did you use on your trailer? Looks like you've got a new one from the photo. I've still got the original and it's showing it's age. I would like to replace it, but don't see many with as much vertical lift as the original.

Andrew,
How much lift are you looking for? https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Jack-sf-Side_Frame_Mount_Jack-hs-36_Inch_Lift.aspx" rel="nofollow - etrailer.com has them up to 36" !!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: February-04-2019 at 1:48pm
It's just a Pro series 1000 lb jack. It's only about 2' extended but works for my current truck. If I change the truck I may have to change the jack again. This trailer did not have the original jack when I bought it so I can't compare.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-04-2019 at 2:50pm
Originally posted by Nautique Newby Nautique Newby wrote:

It's just a Pro series 1000 lb jack. It's only about 2' extended but works for my current truck. If I change the truck I may have to change the jack again. This trailer did not have the original jack when I bought it so I can't compare.

Allen,
It sounds like you have the wrong idea with the proper tongue height on a trailer. Whatever trailer you are pulling, the trailer frame should be as close to level as possible. That's why they make different height ball mounts for different height receivers. You don't change the jack stand just to get the trailer tongue higher or lower to get it on the tow ball.


You need to look into the proper height ball mount.





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Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: February-05-2019 at 4:11pm
I knew it was critical for multi axle trailers but not single axle. Mine is not too far from level. I actually have that exact mount you included.

Thanks for the tip. Once I get the boat back together I'll check the trailer angle.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: aghaydon993
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 10:50pm
I need new sight guides made for my 86 trailer as well.. I really like your stainless ones. I can’t find anywhere or any one that makes these. Alex from Indy


Posted By: aghaydon993
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 10:54pm
I need new sight guides made for my 86 trailer as well.. I really like your stainless ones. I can’t find anywhere or any one that makes these. Alex from Indy


Posted By: andrewmarani
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 11:39am
Hi Al.ex,
You won't find these on line or for sale in a store. I had these made up by a steel fabricator that also works with stainless steel. I'm pretty sure everything they need to know is on that sheet of paper (except change the 81 to 85 degrees).

I don't know your connections, but if you know anyone in construction they probably know a small steel fabrication shop you can contact. Many will work for cash. I don't remember the cost, it was 5 years ago, but it was expensive. Primed painted steel would be much less. If you do ask a steel fab shop to make this, ask for a price in stainless steel and prime painted steel, The stainless cost is going to be a bit of a shock.
Andrew

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Builder


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: April-04-2019 at 1:11pm
I've taken the fins off the bottom of the keel a) because two were bent and I want to straighten them and b) I'm sure they haven't been removed in 37 years and the screw holes could be a source of water leakage into the sealed area of the hull. I noticed the tips of these screws penetrating the inside face of the hull when I had all the foam stripped out. I meant to put some layers of glass over it to seal but forgot before I re-foamed.    That's what you get when the project gets stretched out for so long.

Therefore I want to reseal the fins to the hull (3M 5200) and seal around the screws themselves. Any recommendations on what to use? Looks like the original was plumbers putty between the fin and hull and in the screw holes. Would like something more permanent but probably not 5200 permanent. I want to be able to get the screws out in the future if say a fin breaks.

All the fins were ready to fall off as soon as the last screw was loose.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: April-04-2019 at 1:15pm
I’d use the same thing to seal the screws. Some like 4200 better. 5200 will do the trick too. If you seal around the bottom of the fin between hull and fun, all you have left is around the head of the screw. We put some in the holes too for good measure.

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78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409
Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351


Posted By: aghaydon993
Date Posted: June-19-2019 at 11:24pm
Thanks Andrew. I didn’t see your email back.. Anyways your sketch did help me. So I’m an electrician from Indy and I bend conduit frequently. The original tubing is basically “1-1/4” rigid conduit” which in the electrical industry is 45$ per 10’ stick.. salty. So used galvanized “water pipe” which is 25$ a Stick. Which is the same OD.. so they come out to be within an 1” of the old tubing to be in length. I just cut the stick in half to 60” I bent them and turned out to be perfect.. so one thing I did, I left the threaded end down where it attaches to the trailer and I’m planning on screwing a “threaded flange” to the trailer. Pictures would help if I could figure that out..


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: June-20-2019 at 2:38am
I removed my strut that was bedded with 5200, used a few Wooden Door shims and tapped them in between the strut and the hull Worked them in side by side until it popped off. Cleaned up the hull with a very sharp gasket scraper and was good to go. Did not take long so I put it back on with 5200, it is strong and works although many say they like the 4200 better because it is easy to replace.
Either one should seal fine against a water leak.

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Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: October-28-2019 at 2:14pm
Progress on my boat has been very slow but I'm just about ready to paint the bilge. The fiberglass ferring has been quite tedious... apply then sand, apply then sand... I'm sure I'm going overboard with it but I wanted a very smooth bilge to avoid collecting dirt, oil, etc.

I"m also cutting the loose plywood flooring that covers the bilge behind the motor hump. The piece I took out was in bad shape so it is not reusable. That old piece also laid on top of the floor on either side of the bilge. Since the back of the motor hump sat on top of this piece of wood flooring (hump hinges were fastened to it as well), it created a gap between the hump and the floor. To fix this I wanted to have the top of the new piece of flooring sit flush with the fiberglass floor on either side per the attached pic. I plan to add a couple of supports to the secondary stringers to support the edge of the wood floor so it doesn't tip.
Obviously the boat hull is going to move and flex some during use. To avoid potential pinching of the boat hull/stringers into the wood floor during this flexing (and thus the wood flooring stressing the stringers and floor on either side, I will leave about 1/4" gap on both sides. My question is (and I realize I may be asking a open ended technical question) does anyone have an idea of how much the boat hull will flex and is 1/4" on each side enough?




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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: October-28-2019 at 2:42pm
Looks great!

however 1/4" gap on each side just sounds huge to me

Thats a 1/2" when the board is all the way to one side

Flexing shmexing, non issue i believe.   like milkjug polyethelene thickness each side is sufficient

If your panel is built rigid enough, i don't think you need to compromise the muffler wells with something fixed over them to support only 6" of cantilevered panel.. But i would keep it modest if adding a lip.

Have you considered making all the over-bilge pieces out of coosa with a couple layups on their top and bottom surface?
When there is any water present, these surfaces get the most exposure

If i were working on another project, and i will eventually, thats the way i would go.

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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: October-28-2019 at 4:16pm
Thanks Ski for the input.

Agreed, 1/4" prob is a lot on each side. but I really didn't want to stress the boat in places it wasn't meant to be stressed. The flooring piece will have a piece of blocking on the bottom where the hump hinge bolts to the floor so this will keep the floor from wandering around between stringers.

I wouldn't think the flex would be much perp to the gunnels since the transom in the back and the bulkhead and flooring under the seats would stiffen the hull. But I wasn't sure enough to move ahead without more experienced opinions.

Unless someone else has a vastly different opinion of the amount of movement I'll probably cut the gap in half and move forward. I'll need a support on the secondary stringers regardless.

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I hope I don't screw this up!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-28-2019 at 4:25pm
Originally posted by Nautique Newby Nautique Newby wrote:


Agreed, 1/4" prob is a lot on each side. but I really didn't want to stress the boat in places it wasn't meant to be stressed. .

Allen,
I'm curious as to why you feel or who told you the area is under stress.

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Posted By: andrewmarani
Date Posted: October-28-2019 at 4:35pm
Don't you need to leave enough space for the carpet on either side of the gap to turn down into the gap? Or to have a plastic T cover the raw carpet edges? My boat has the plastic T stapled to the removable plywood through the down leg of the T.

If NOT using the plastic T, I would think that leaving enough of a gap for two layers of turned down carpet to fit snug, but not hard against each other would give you room for flex but not allow the plywood to move around.

If using the plastic T, I would make the gap on each side between boards the thickness of the down leg of the T plus no more than an 1/8".

A free 1/4" on either side is too much space.

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Builder


Posted By: Nautique Newby
Date Posted: October-28-2019 at 4:37pm
My concern is generated more from "what if" rather than certainty. That is I presume that the boat flexes to some degree when splashing thru the water/waves, If the boat were to flex in an axis perp to the gunnels and close the distance between stingers, I didn't want the plywood floor to suddenly be the stiffest member in resistance to the flexing and thus introduce stress where it touches the secondary stringers, perhaps cracking fiberglass or breaking the stringer loose from the hull.

Again, this is all supposition and I may be over thinking it. But given the amount of time and effort that's gone into this project I didn't want to run the risk of damaging my work without getting more expert opinions.

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I hope I don't screw this up!



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