SN2001 Overheats with T stat but runs cool without
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=41800
Printed Date: May-08-2024 at 7:48am
Topic: SN2001 Overheats with T stat but runs cool without
Posted By: UndercoverPoe
Subject: SN2001 Overheats with T stat but runs cool without
Date Posted: August-21-2017 at 5:00pm
| Hello fellow correct crafters- I have a 1988 SN 2001. I'm celebrating 15 years with this boat. However this season I have been chasing an overheating issue all summer long. Short Story - day 1 overheated, day 2 replaced impeller with a used one. Day 3 - ran cool. Day 4 Installed new impeller, day 5 overheated. Day 6 - removed t stat and boat ran cool 140-160 degree. Day 7 - Replaced T-stat with 160 from ski dim and back to overheating. Day 7, part 2 - took new t-stat out and ran the whole lake yesterday - 5 miles up and 5 miles back, boat tended to stay cool for the most part, looked like it had a hard time settling in at a consistent temp. But for the most part ran about 1`60. SO here is my question: why does it overheat with the t stat in, even a new t-stat? Why does it run cool without and what problems do I have to look forward to should I run it with a t stat regularly. Thanks CCF! See you on the lake |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-21-2017 at 6:00pm
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Test the old and new T stats. Even new ones have been known to be bad out of the box. Now, with "off shore" manufacturing bad is more common with everything!!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MACS81SN
Date Posted: August-21-2017 at 6:36pm
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160 with no t-stat seems kinda high. If you don't have a raw water strainer, have you checked the inlet end of the transmission cooler for debris? ------------- Mark 1999 -SN - 502 Python 1981 - SN Owned 33 years - Sold 1968 - Mustang - Sold |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: August-21-2017 at 8:45pm
Get an temperature gun, even a cheap one will do. Check your exhaust risers in various spots to see if they are pretty even when fully warmed up. They are corroded inside, cast iron, and can get blocked or partially blocked at exit points. My 67 had one exit (starboard aft) totally blocked when I first got it.. I was able to remove the fitting and clear it. New ones are available of course if money is no object. 
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Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: August-21-2017 at 11:18pm
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Agree with cbrdude. Get an IR temp gun and check the temp around the sending unit. Make sure it's really overheating and not just a bad dash ground. ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 6:26am
I too agree with checking the actual temp to confirm it's not a gauge problem. Cleaning up the wire connections is also a great idea but understand a bad ground at the dash will not affect the temp gauge or oil pressure gauge. The ground source for both is at the sender/engine block. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
bb12 wrote:Posted By: UndercoverPoe
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 11:27am
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Oh, wow thanks for all the replies. My problem fell on deaf ears over at Planet Nautique. For the record my first impeller came out shredded so there is a good likelihood of having to chase down and remove chunks of impellers. 8122pbrainard - agreed the new T stat could be bad. Maybe Its worth $40 to try another one. MACS81SN - agreed that 160 was high but I didn't hear that these boats came with 143 degree when new until after I bought it. Also my boat has run at 160 since I owned it so I thought that was thew right one. Maybe I should get a 143 degree and see if that helps. Do you know of the least inexpensive place to buy one? I guess SKIDIM and another $40 should do it?? As far as the raw water strainer, I do have the plastic "jar" with the screen an O ring. Is that what you are referring to? I just replaced with new the jar and the o ring and the screen looked fine., Its full of what while the boat is running. Trans Cooler - this is something I'd like to check out, what is the process to determine if there is a clog going over to the trans? Not sure exactly where to start or what I'm looking at? cbr1000dude - not sure if a temp gun makes sense because with T-stat - temp spikes quickly. With out stat temp comes down to 160 range. So it seems to be sending the consistent message to the gauge. Since the 15 years I've owned the boat I did replace complete exhaust including new exhaust manifolds. about 5 years ago. Could the be blocked? Yes I guess so, it should be easy enough for me to remove. Once removed can I blow them out with a hose? How does one go about removing and obstruction? bb12 - I hear you but like I said T-stat removed, engine runs cool, T-stat installed (old or new 160 from skidim) boat overheats. 8122pbrainard and bb12 - to satisfy this requirement, at some point beofre I bring my boat to a third party which is going to cost a S*&t ton of money where I live, I'll replace both the sending unit and the gauge to rule this out. I am pretty familiar with all the gauges and all the wires behind my dash to the extent that that all my gauges appear to be working correctly. Unless there is some correlation between installing a t-stat and somehow knocking the gauge/sending unit function out. However, I'd like to so this as second or third attempt. My first attempt will be somehow clearing out blocked passages, as my current situation doesn't appear to "flow" once T-stat get dropped in. Any help on where to start/take apart/look would be appreciated. Also if any process like blowing out with a garden hose can be explained to me - I'd like to try that too. Second attempt I'd like to try and get a 143 degree t-stat - any economical link to the correct product would be appreciated. Thanks again CCF Community. |
Posted By: fgroce
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 11:33am
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Try Nautique parts and use the discount code PND for the discount. ------------- FGroce 88 Ski Nautique For 28 years Now 2002 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 11:44am
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 11:47am
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 11:48am
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What caused the initial overheat? When exactly did you replace the strainer jar? Have you tried going back to your used impeller (with thermostat)? Where did you get the new Day 4 impeller? You're screwing around with the thermostat and that's clearly not the issue. Use a genuine Sherwood or PCM impeller. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 12:31pm
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https://www.nautiqueparts.com/product/sherwood-impeller-kit-pcm-is-rp061015/" rel="nofollow - Impeller Kit https://www.nautiqueparts.com/product/thermostat-kit-pcm-ford-engines-143-degrees-rp026002e/" rel="nofollow - 143 Thermostat Kit |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 2:08pm
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Quote : with T-stat - temp spikes quickly. With out stat temp comes down to 160 range. T- stat in backwards??? |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 2:36pm
Good thought! |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 3:08pm
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On all my CCs I have installed a faucet after the trans cooler so I can have a positive water flow for running on dry land. Those "fake a lake" devises can fall off when getting in and out of the boat in my experience. So blowing water backwards through the trans cooler happens every time I hook up the garden hose. You can just disconnect the TC hose to the strainer and flush it there. Also I run my Barefoot 454 without a thermostat on purpose. A huge engine under a cover doesn't need any help getting hot on a 100 degree day to me. I'm much more concerned about overheating than getting the oil hot enough, I change it often anyway. Yes those pieces of impeller can get lodged anywhere and cause a problem. Walmart has a IR temp gun for $11.99, so not checking actual temp in various spots seems like penny wise and pound foolish even though you have new risers. Yours aren't as corroded as mine, but raw water cooling means anything, silt for example, can collect in fittings. You might be able to clear it with a long screwdriver or flexible picker upper tool.depending on the angle. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 3:19pm
O KENO, KENO, wherefore art thou KENO? |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 3:34pm
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Tstat can be checked in pan of water on stove. Just wipe off the meat thermometer before putting it back in drawer. Who knows, might add flavor! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 3:42pm
Here I am Hollywood  If you're wondering if it fits upside down, the answer is YES. but the sensing portion is now facing away from the hot engine water so it wouldn't open at the same time or water temperature,then when it does open there will be flow to bring the temperature down The pointy part goes toward the sky when it's installed right. I didn't feel like running an engine this way though. At least not today, maybe tomorrow. |
Posted By: UndercoverPoe
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 4:34pm
| WOW! Thanks for quick replies. T stat in backwards. Hmmmm. I never thought of that. I put it in pointy side up. As mentioned above, Is that the correct orientation? |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 4:48pm
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Most Fords won't even move the temp gauge above 120 with no thermostat and open flow. You have something else going on if it's reading 160 with no thermostat. What's the water flow look like out of the exhausts ? Is it even side to side ? Fill a 5 gallon bucket and see how quickly it sucks it down with a cooling hose directly into the bucket. Pressurize your pre pump hoses with a garden hose. Thats an easy way to test for pre pump air leaks. Pointy side up is correct. Did you use a genuine pcm or Sherwood impeller replacement ? |
Posted By: *mtrbtr*
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 5:33pm
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My boat seems to go through T stats all the time. I was interested in your thread but in my case like mentioned above the temp barely gets above 120 with it out. The very first thing you said about your impeller being shredded would be my best guess. I bet you have a piece blocking somewhere. ------------- 2006 SV 211 (sold) went to the dark side 97 Sport Nautique (sold) 89 PS 190 (sold) 05 Four Winns H180 (sold) 89 Four Winns 180 Freedom (sold) 75 MFG (sold) |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 5:50pm
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The shredded old impeller pieces will cause cooling issues. We had to pull my buddy's hoses all off from the pump to the thermostat and from the thermostat to the exhaust and flush and dig out all the impeller chunks. We found most of the impeller and that fixed his problems. Not an easy job while in the sun out on the beach. Would be much more comfortable at home in the garage. I recommend staying with the thermostat installed once all is sorted out. Your engine needs a little bit of cooling backpressure to properly cool the entire block. Running with no thermostat is not good for the engine. ------------- |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-22-2017 at 6:18pm
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How do you winterize? We used to do the suck and displace method. The first time I pulled the drain plug I was shocked by the amount of scale especially from the exhaust manifolds. Clogged up riser passages are known to cause engines to run hot. |
Posted By: throttle out
Date Posted: August-23-2017 at 9:15am
This is my thought as well! Those small pieces of rubber can cause havoc. My buddies Mastercraft ate an impeller earlier this summer, he simply replaced it and went about his business. Every time we meet up we gotta drag race (nautique vs mastercraft), this time halfway across the lake he let off, when I got back around to him he was overheated badly. We found all kinds of bits n pieces in that poor motor, now all is well. Also, be sure to tighten ALL of your hose clamps with a nut runner or socket and get them goodntight, do not use a screw driver. ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 351 PCM w/ 1-1.23 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-23-2017 at 9:30am
Except take it easy on transmission oil cooler, as you can crush the shell. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: UndercoverPoe
Date Posted: August-23-2017 at 10:34am
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I winterize by dumping all the water out of the block, the exhaust manifold and the hoses at the water pump and whatever other hoses are up there no more. Ski dim told me 15 seconds at 3000 rpm should fill a 5 gallon bucket. That's how to test the impeller pump action. Any less, something is not right.. No I didn't replace with Sherwood impeller, I used some cheap one I saw on amazon that was able to be overnight-ed. I have a since purchased a Sherwood and its currently in package up on my parts shelf. Maybe I'll put that in next and try the test skidim told me about. Here is a dumb question, can the impeller be installed backwards? Not the pump, I have not removed the pump from the hoses, I have only replaced the impeller while pump was still hooked up so little chance the pump is backwards, but my question is: can the impeller fin orientation be installed backwards? I doubt it because when that belt spins that pump boy does it spin it. As far as "cleaning it out" - can you tell where to start? Do i remove the manifolds, do I remove the trans coolers hoses? I guess next step is to put the sherwood impeller in and start trying to clean out the passages - just looking to see where to start. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-23-2017 at 11:32am
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The orientation of the impeller doesn't matter. It will "comb" the vanes the right way once it gets going. On the other hand though, I wouldn't re-install an impeller, where the vanes have taken a set, the other way. Of course, if the vanes have taken a set, the impeller is probably tired anyway. I have heard of cheap impellers just not pumping, or the hub of the impeller breaking free and not spinning the impeller when the engine is running. As far as cleaning out, you just have to follow the whole chain of the cooling system. -Unlikely, but make sure there is nothing (like a plastic bag) jammed in the hull pickup -Follow the hose and make sure your water strainer isn't clogged or cracked and that the rubber o-ring seal is in place -check the transmission cooler doesn't have any debris clogged in the input side -make sure none of the hoses are kinked or collapsing -check the thermostat housing for impeller fragments or other clogs -check the manifold fittings for debris -along the way make sure all the hose ends are properly seated onto their fittings and that the hose clamps are snug but not too tight on the transmission cooler |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-23-2017 at 11:47am
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And remove the pump and change impeller and gaskets on the work bench. Doing handstands trying to seat the impeller and align O rings and gaskets is,IMHO,looking for trouble too. Note that external screw for impeller cam should be facing out away from engine when pump is mounted back on engine. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: August-23-2017 at 12:13pm
Note to self: read this before replacing impeller. |
Posted By: UndercoverPoe
Date Posted: August-23-2017 at 1:37pm
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Bri892001 - Thanks. I will do all that this weekend and report back. Gary S - Yes, "Cam" Screw? Out. That a check. I made sure pump wasn't upside down. |
Posted By: UndercoverPoe
Date Posted: August-23-2017 at 1:39pm
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1. Does it make sense to remove the manifolds for cleaning? 2. Can I blow out a portion of the engine with the manifolds removed or do I need to go deep to find a potential clog? |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-23-2017 at 2:59pm
| Put the good new impeller in or even the good old one back in and I suspect you'll be fine. The cheap impellers don't pump sufficient. |
Posted By: UndercoverPoe
Date Posted: August-23-2017 at 3:54pm
| Hollywood - I hope you are right. I'll report back tomorrow. |
Posted By: UndercoverPoe
Date Posted: August-24-2017 at 10:17am
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So here is Today/Yesterday Update: 1. Installed brand new Sherwood Impeller. 2. Tested Function - ie filed 5 gallon bucket in 15 seconds at 3,000RPM with raw water pump outlet hose. 3. Boiled Both THermostats - old and new. Old opens around 140, new opens around 160. 4. Installed New S-stat. 5. Boat Overheats - up over 200 maybe 220 before i got it off the trailer. 6. Removed T-stat. Boat cools down from 210 is to 160 in 20 seconds. 7. Ran boat on trailer at higher RRM w/ no stat - was able to get it down to the high 130's 8. I don't have a temp gun yet - but I felt around for the hot section. Manifolds were general cool. BTW, I did remove one riser to check for blockages, and there were none but I will do the other tonight just to check that off the list.. THe section that I felt that was HOT HOT HOT was after the t-stat housing - the large metal housing/outlet tube going down - with markings 'R020500" was HOT!. I'm feeling like its a blocked passage somehwere along those lines where its the large dia tube heading to the elbow and then back up to what I believe it the circulation pump. Not really sure if thats what its called. I'm looking for ford PCM floew diagram so I know what to call these parts, but I think thats where my problem lies..........??????? |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: August-24-2017 at 10:25am
Go buy a IR temp gun then define HOT HOT HOT Mine runs mid 140's and you can not hold onto that outlet tube either ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-24-2017 at 11:48am
This doesn't sound good. I feel like you should be able to fill/drain 5 gallons at IDLE over 15 seconds. Where are the pros? I cannot remember the benchmark performance rate. You are wasting your time doing the no thermostat runs. Go buy an IR temp gun already. |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: August-24-2017 at 12:06pm
| I think 13 gpm at 1500 rpm |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: August-24-2017 at 12:47pm
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My Sherwood manual has a graph for various different impellers and their flow rates at various RPM. The 9959 impeller which fits the pump being talked about has the following 1000 RPM about 5 gpm 1500 RPM about 10 gpm 3000 RPM about 20 gpm Maybe this will become this afternoon's experiment
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: August-24-2017 at 12:56pm
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That big line is the suction to the circulating pump from the thermostat housing and is the temperature of the water going into the block. It's gonna be pretty hot after the boat is all warmed up and at operating temperature From there it goes through the block and comes out the front of the intake manifold to the thermostat housing again at a higher temperature Then mixing takes place in the housing with the thermostat controlling the mixing of hot and cold water to control engine temperature. It's kinda like "magic" happens in the thermostat housing
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-24-2017 at 1:06pm
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Thanks for posting the rates. His pump sounds perfectly fine. Take apart the magic box. Your hot water cannot get out or your cold water cannot get in. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-24-2017 at 1:07pm
Absolutely! We're overdue for one of your hands on true to the world testing's!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: August-24-2017 at 1:41pm
| Have you confirmed the gauge is working ? My brothers 89 temp gauge showed like 190 when actual water temp was 140 ish. Replaced gauge and the reading was proper. IR gun will tell you if the gauge is just lying. The manifolds on a properly cooling ford stay pretty cool. The large cooling tube will be too hot to keep your hands on at a normal 140-160 operating temp. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: August-24-2017 at 4:09pm
Pete You missed yesterday's episode. It was the spark plug wire swapping experiment in LisaO's thread. But anyways, I did the bucket test and 5 gallons in 15 seconds at 3000 rpm is a good number. This was sucking from a bucket so all the engine cooling was still supplied. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-24-2017 at 4:47pm
No, I saw the swap the wire experiment. I'm just seeing if I can push you to two experiments a day! BTW, keep them coming. Nothing including specs, charts and graphs beats the hands on!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: UndercoverPoe
Date Posted: August-24-2017 at 6:31pm
| ok. IR Gun in hand. Verifying temp tonight. I think my problem is the circulation pump. How hard is that thing to pull off? Before I pull it off, I was told to remove the drain plugs and verify flow increases as do the RPMs. No measure was given to test flow for this procedure. Once again, how hard to pull a circ pump? What should I be looking for? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: August-24-2017 at 11:44pm
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Pretty easy to remove the circulating pump. You take the belts off for the alternator and Raw water pump, then remove the alternator and it's mounting bracket. Unhook the water hose 9 bolts of various different lengths (so keep track of where they go) and it's off. 2 of those 9 came out when you took the alternator bracket off, so 7 more to go. But, why not spin it when the belts are off and see how it feels first. If it spins smoothly, makes no noise and there's no looseness in the bearings, it's probably OK unless the metal impeller is just totally eroded away, but they're pretty durable You also need a gasket for bolting it back onto the timing cover. The FelPro part number is 35211. for one to fit your pump |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-25-2017 at 1:16am
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I had a pump start making noise,the PO had maybe changed it when they put the new engine in. Dad then ran it almost 20 years in fresh water. When I got it apart almost all the fins on the impeller were gone,they had used an automotive pump and was in saltwater for several months. It never overheated though. If you can't find anything else and the temp gauge checks out it just might be worth pulling. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: August-25-2017 at 10:40am
| Joe had one on a 351 that the shaft was spinning inside the impeller. I don't recall if it was a auto pump or a true marine pump. |
Posted By: UndercoverPoe
Date Posted: August-25-2017 at 11:14am
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OK CCF Community - I come to you with GREAT SUCCESS Last night. Following Vince of SKIDIM's advise once again, I pulled the 9/16" drain plug on the block while running and hooked to garden hose. I did this to prove out the circ pump. Upping the RPM's did infact increase the spurting of water all over my carpet. So No need to pull the circ pump. I also got an IR gun from someone at work. Turns out he had it in his backpack that he carries everyday of all places!! I brought the boat down tot he lake, shot the engine and guess what!!!??? I caught my temp gauge in a lie!!! The gauge was reading well over 200 and I was shooting the engine top and sides and I was getting around 120 degrees. Then all of a sudden, the gauge settles in the a calm 160. Oh - All this with the original 143 degree t-stat installed. Took the boat out for a quick spin......160. Ran the engine for extended period of time at the dock, still 160. Ok, I see how it is....I caught you (my SN2001) in a lie and now you are going to tell the truth? But in all seriousness - WHERE AM I SUPPOSED TO SHOOT THE ENGINE TO VERIFY TEMP? I can't see how i can do it accurately because the sensor is hitting water inside the engine. I do also understand something explained above about the outlet side of circ pump on it was back up to t stat housing (larger diameter thing) - that shot at 125 as opposed to headers that were closer to 100. However I did shoot the bottom of the manifolds, the four exhaust ports leaving the engine and I got temps, 220-240......uh, oh. lets put it back on the trailer and shut her down until we understand the correct temp to shoot the engine and what temps should be where. All this help has been much appreciated..... Keep in mind that when put back on the trailer gauge was reading 160 after about 60 minutes of engine run time. So something was/is lying. The sender or the gauge. Wonder which one is more likely to lie??. Wonder if I can install a stand alone gauge to verify the original in dash VDO? |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-25-2017 at 12:05pm
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So basically what was cleared up by the 6th post took up 2 pages. Temps at the exhaust will read high at the heads since there is no water jacket there to cool them. Take your temp readings by the sender unit in the intake manifold, just because it's not in the water won't change the reading that much. Don't take the readings to literally but understand what is "normal" for your engine. Then if/when you see something a miss you can check into it. You did fine until you didn't verify your actual temp with a a IR gun and drove too far down that wrong road ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Blamey
Date Posted: August-25-2017 at 12:14pm
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I believe you can use a VOM to test the sender. Obviously you need to catch it in a lie first. ------------- 96 Super Sport Previously: 95 Sport Nautique, 1980 Ski Supreme |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: August-25-2017 at 12:44pm
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Like Gary said, shoot it right next to the sending unit for consistency. That spot is the hottest water coming out of the engine right before going to the thermostat housing. Just because a thermostat says 143 doesn't mean the boat will run at that temperature. Plenty of people with 143's that run around 160. And 160's that run in the 170's to 180. The number like 143 is where it begins opening in the perfect world. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-25-2017 at 12:45pm
| You should be able to test the gauge by removing the wire from the sender, and grounding that wire to the engine block. If it pegs the gauge consistently, the gauge should be good. Double check for loose/corroded connections at both the Edit: sender and the gauge. |
Posted By: bb12
Date Posted: August-25-2017 at 1:07pm
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Run a jumper ground from your temp gauge to the negative battery terminal. Just put alligator clips on each end...See how the gauge reads. ------------- 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-25-2017 at 3:18pm
+1 on this. I had a wire connection at sender come loose too. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: August-25-2017 at 4:07pm
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A bad gauge will still peg with full ground especially one that's already running high. Test or replace the sensor. Also, you need to verify that your gauges are receiving proper 12+ volts and have a good ground. Bad grounds and low voltage will make gauges read high regardless of sensor signal. If all of those factors test good your gauge is the culprit. Easy way to test the Gauge independent of the boat electrics is with power and ground jumper wires direct to the battery. This will give a 100% good ground and at least 12v power. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-25-2017 at 5:41pm
Yes and make sure there isn't any thread sealant or tape on the sender threads to the block. The block is the ground source for the gauge. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |